b4ccamaro

I’m repainting my Camaro and while it was all apart I wanted to do some sound deadening.

I did lots of research on dynamat and stuff of the sort. I found Sounddeadenershowdown.com and was quite impressed with the product. I decided to go for it. I haven’t finished putting the car back together but I’m quite excited to hear the difference.
This stuff is VERY labor intensive and not a job for the weekend. I am in it over 100 hrs. Im sure I over did it and did it the hard way butin the end I am extremely happy with the product and the support I received after making the purchase. Here are some pics.

b4ccamaro

More pics...

luvofjah

iTrader: (2)

Hmmmm... there use to be a web page, I think of the same name, and it showed Second Skin Audio (compared to other products) as top choice, price vs performance, etc...

Regardless of product... it will make a difference... it took me and a buddy 2 days, did almost as much as you...

b4ccamaro

Thats good to hear. I'm still a few months away from starting the car and finding out if it was worth the time.
I'm glad you're saying it was worth it.

t/aws61985

iTrader: (2)

I plan to put the hushmat from hawks in my car. But I'm not gonna take the dash out. Not gonna deal with that lol. I'm just gonna do as far up by the dash as I can.

b4ccamaro

I don't blame you. It's a pain.
But my dash was out anyway so why not!!!

85Special

First time I took out the dash took me a while. Not a fun chore, but now that I've done it a time or two it's about a 3-4 hour job.

I've used the "boom mat" aerosol can on a couple places. I liked the way it laid but can't really tell how well it worked. The rest of my car is the old jute pad so it's still pretty noisy

gheatly

iTrader: (2)

I installed similar Dynamat product in my 82. I guess it too you so long because you cut it up into all of those small pieces. I did my car from the top of the toe board to the area under the rear seats in continuous sheets with no gaps. Took a weekend, maybe 6-8 hours total. Obviously use more product doing it this way and I understand it doesn't provide any additional vibration reduction. But, it provides much better heat shielding, especially on the passenger side where the exhaust runs close to the floor.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

The reason it has taken him so long is because he is doing it the right way. Dynamat is not a sound deadening product, is a vibration damper. All of that black product is Mass loaded vinyl and does not like to bend too much, and only bends one direction. So any seams or major transitions need to be glued with smaller strips. I have done the same thing in my 69 Suburban, but I am not completely finished. I still have to go up the firewall with the MLV. I was trying to make it to a car show and had to stop since I needed to put the rest of the interior back in and I was running out of time.

I am glad to see another person doing it the proper way and not just plastering dynamat everywhere. I plan on going to the same extreme as you in my 92 Firebird once I have another vehicle prepared for daily driver duty. I read through http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/ many times. Don has actually created packages to give a person the proper amount of materials for the 3rd gen without having to figure out the quantities needed. http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/veh...urer/Chevrolet

-=Z28=-

iTrader: (3)

Just a friendly caution, I had done this to find that it trapped water inbetween the mat and floor. If I didnt find out, no questions, it would have rusted out. So make sure that water will never have the chance to get there.....

I eventually pulled it all up. waste of money. and you guys know... its not cheap. I am now deciding on using it or not...

Saxondale

iTrader: (2)

This is also my concern with these products. If or when I get to adding insulation I may selectively not install it in water collection points. I'm not planning to add water, but sometimes it happens.

b4ccamaro

I never gave any thought to the rust issue. I'm in Arizona though so chances are that I wont have too many problems....I hope.
Hey Scooter, what kind of a difference did it make in your Suburban? I still haven't got the car on the road to see results.
The kit he sold me was almost enough. I imagine if I knew what I was doing, there would have been plenty, but I had to order about 15sq ft more of the MLV and another can of the glue to finnish the job. Other than that, the kit was right on the money.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Unfortunately, I was only able to drive the Suburban once, about 15 miles, before it broke down and I had to have it towed but it was MUCH better. When I bought it and drove it the 11 hours home (99% highway ~70mph), it was very loud and I had to stuff paper towel in my ears because it was unbearable. On that short trip before the breakdown I was able to have a nice conversation with my friend without feeling the need to speak loudly, or ask my friend to speak up, he is very soft spoken.

It only had factory rubber mat in it when I got it, but it was really loud before I did all this. A lot is/was road noise, but I have a fair amount of wind noise since ALL the seals are dried, cracked and have shrunk. I'll start replacing seals once I fix the fuel pump, after this business trip. I also have to put vibration damper on the roof, insulate the roof and figure out a headliner since mine is long gone. I will also have to finish the firewall all the way up and around the cowl, like you did on your 3rd gen, to complete the "bubble". I may put a second layer of MLV on the floor in front of the front seat and behind to help with the road noise a little more if I feel it is still too loud on the highway. The rear area floor is wood from the factory and I don't think another layer of MLV will do too much there, plus it is further from me as the driver. I also have to Vibration damper in the quater panel areas, MLV and insulate in there, Vibration on the doors (all 3 of them) and MLV behind the metal door panels. I am at a disadvantage with the suburban since there really aren't any interior panels I can hide sound control materials behind. The only removeable panels are the door panels (about helf the height of the door overall) and the 4 rear quarter panel covers and the dummy door panel where the 4th door would be (behind the driver).
I forgot to use a SPL app before I did all the work, but I plan on using it once I get it running again. I may pull all the insulation out, except the vibration damper, and use the app to try to get a before/after approximation, but that may not be until I do my 4x4 conversion on the vehicle first. I have a few rust spots to fix too, so I may wait until I do that to try

b4ccamaro

That's awesome that it made such a difference in your suburban. I'm really excited to get mine on the road and hear the difference. But I'm still probably a month or two away from it.

KNIGHTE

Hey - how did this sound in the end? I'm doing the same.

b4ccamaro

It turned out amazing. It is a different car completely.

I would say though that I went overboard on making sure every square inch was covered. I wouldn't spend the time getting it molded and glued into every nook and cranny next time. There is a point of diminishing returns.

But I absolutely will do it again. It's tons of work the first time but the next time it will go probably twice as fast.

The only fitment issues I ran into was on the tunnel. I covered every inch and by the time I put the center console in, it sat about 1.5" off of the mounting tabs in the back. So I had to fab up some brackets to make it work. My best advice is to lay one piece down on the tunnel and cut out everything you need to make it lay down flat and don't use any glue strips to cover the seams.

If you are getting new carpet, don't get the mass loaded stuff. That will help with fitment and the mass loaded part of the carpet is crap compared to this stuff.

KNIGHTE

Darn - I have mass backed carpet I bought it before I decided to sound treat it. It's an acc fitted carpet hope it will be ok. I have 100 mil Kolossus under the mlv and I'm trying to get the mlv close to every cranny so it doesn't pop up.

It takes ages. Especially the Velcro cut-outs so that it can be removed

The Project

iTrader: (6)

Don @ SDS and I have chatted a few times...He's full of good tips.

I bought the last of the 3M acoustic fill

There is a DIYMA thread listing the performance of ALL deadeners. SDS and KNU were top two.

Dynamat Xtreme is the top one for " light weight" deadener.

Second Skin scored well but for the price, there are better options.

propaintball96

I used thickest FatMat offered and covered pretty much every square inch of the inside of the car. Not gunna lie, car is so loud it made it kind of pointless. Once I get the new sub in though I think its going to make a big difference with the sound quality. Goodluck!

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

An alternate route could be to install subframe connectors (which gets rid of the flexing that causes lots of squeaks) and use simple roof flashing tape to get rid of more vibration and heat. Cheap, simple and it works. Sometimes you can read product reviews of the roof flashing tape on tool store websites and it's guys using it for sound deadening. I'm not trying to start a debate, it's just an alternate route for guys like me that get shell shocked at the price of the name brand sound deadening solutions.

The Project

iTrader: (6)

Have a look at the SDS website. There are lots of tips and tricks...even 25 - 40% coverage will do for most applications. 100% coverage is overkill for 99% of the uses.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I agree, most people don't need to plaster the inside of their car in sound deadening solutions. I looked at that website but it just read like an infomercial. It started giving info and then they turned that into a segway for their product.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

It does, but it really doesn't. I read through everything and used it as a template for my treatment. The cost of the shipping on the MLV was really cost prohibitive, so I found the MLV elsewhere for a lower price shipped. And for the vibration control I found something equalivalent. Everything they tell you on there is because most people plaster the inside of the vehicle with vibration dampening and say they "sound proofed" it, but they didn't.
I would take the time to fully read it once, just for knowledge. You can still use your roofing material instead of the CDL tiles, but the rest of the information is there to do it properly.

b4ccamaro

Sound Deadener Showdown is expensive no doubt. I was willing to spend the dough to find out how well it works and I am happy with the product. There are lots of ways to go with this stuff and save some money doing it. But for me it was worth it to get it all from the same place. You'll have a hard time finding the CLD tiles anywhere else. And yes they work really well.

adclass

How thick is that MLV and did you glue it all down or together ? Is that the same stiff on the back of your interior panels ?

The Project

iTrader: (6)

Thickness is on Don's website....

If you run deadener and MLV, you don't need the carpet with the backing.

MLV needs close to 100% coverage to work.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

I used a product called RAAMat or something about 10 years ago. Worked out great. Not sure if they are still in business


http://www.raamaudio.com/

The Project

iTrader: (6)

Yep, they're still around......Ensolite is a good de-coupler product..I use it on my doors.

ktthecarguy

Hi there,
I tried some stuff called Thermo-Tec from Walmart. Part #14520, I bought 2 rolls of 36" X 60" and it covered most of the interior. I ran it up the firewall and in the floor pans, under the rear seats, but not in the trunk well. I even had 2 leftover pieces to do the roof. It makes a big improvement in heat insulation, and also in sound deadening.
Total cost was $163. It took me 2 afternoons, and it definitely makes a difference.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

That is vibration dampner, not sound deadener

ktthecarguy

It is also heat shielding, which is primarily what I wanted it for. But vibration dampening also helps to deaden some sounds, such as metal-on-metal vibration. Anyways, it works. Pretty cheap alternative.

mikeceli

iTrader: (2)

I keep a few rolls of below product on hand. I apply it whenever I open up a door, roof, etc.

Cheap and effective.



http://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-0...lation/1081449

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Again, that is only a vibration damper, it may effective at doing that, but not sound deadening. It isn't even the asphalt type, it says it is just foam, I can't see it doing a whole lot of anything compared to others.

I don't know why people keep posting things like this. Yes, it does work at what it is supposed to do, but it is only less than 1/2 the job. The whole point of this guys thread is that he is doing it the best/right way, not doing it the cheap/half way.

mikeceli

iTrader: (2)

What is sound? Movement of air. When you cut vibration, you reduce sound.

I used it double layered on the generator box, on my Toyhauler. It appreciably cut the noise intrusion into the living quarters.

I'm not saying it's the "best". Just VERY effective for the money spent.

b4ccamaro

THe MLV is 1/8" thick but you have to add another 1/8" of the decoupling material to go with it. The decoupling material will compress but the MLV won't!

b4ccamaro

Thanks Scooter. I'm not saying this it the only way to go, but I wanted to try it out because I've always wan't my bitchin Camaro to not be the rattle trap that they always seem to be.
If you guys that have used something else want to see why I did what I did then go to this website and read up. (And there's lot of reading to do).
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
Don does a great job of explaining the science of it.