TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I know what Greg did. Cant say tho..

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

On the Firehawks they used a stocker bored to 52mm.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

dang dub post

874ME

iTrader: (1)

I understand. He told me about pricing on some "things" he had for sale and asked that it be confidential.

Hopefully he got near what he was asking for.

irocarter

iTrader: (1)

Anyone tried making a strut tower brace?

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

You just HAD to go there didn't ya?? I think it'd be tuff to do...

JekyllandHyde

iTrader: (3)

I never even bothered thinking about a strut tower brace. I just rely on the wonder bar. Not nearly as good, but on my stock hood, some parts of my T-RAM already leave indentations on the hood insulation so there's barely any room in there.

irocarter

iTrader: (1)

when i installed my t-ram, i didn't use those metal plates in the intake gasket for the egr. what are those for?

874ME

iTrader: (1)

The only thing that rubs the hood insulation on my car is the throttle cable that comes off the TB to the kick down bracket assembly.

That reminds me, Jekyl did you hook up with irocarter for the fix?

JekyllandHyde

iTrader: (3)

Sure did. I just got the bracket. Thanks again! I can finally finish off this car now.

Matt, not sure what plates you are talking about? There are two plates that I have for my T-RAM. Both are block off plates for the EGR.

irocarter

iTrader: (1)

In the felpro intake gasket kit there are these optional stainless steel plates with about a 3/8 or larger hole that fit into the egr passage hole of the intake gasket. I didn't and don't know their purpose. anyone?anyone?
and remember to get to bed early or Santa will not stop at your house/trailer!!!

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

To restricted exhaust flow to the intake manfold.

irocarter

iTrader: (1)

but what's the purpose to restrict the exhaust flow?

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

Heat and carbon build up in the port that feeds the egr in the intake maifold.

irocarter

iTrader: (1)

so should i or should i not use the restricters?

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

You are talking about something like this right? then if you have an egr hooked up I would use it, if you don't then it wont make a difference if its on or off.

irocarter

iTrader: (1)

yes, those are the plates i am talking about and no, i did not use them.but still why use them? i am still using the egr. merry xmas BTW

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

You wont hurt anything by not using them so dont worry, thank you and Merry Christmas too.

irocarter

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the info gp90. btw did you have to run out in the garage this late at night in your underwear and slippers and take those pics of those restrictors? if so thanks again.

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

Google is your friend lol!

874ME

iTrader: (1)

irocarter. If you are using an EGR valve you should run the alluminum spacers with a hole in them. The EGR actually helps eliminate part throttle detonation. It mixes in non cumbustible exhaust gases into the intake. At light throttle the A/F mixture is leaned out and is prone to pre ignition detonation. The diluted mixture of air / fuel / exhasust gasses help slow the cumustion process in a lean condition. This is of course if your chip allows the EGR to function properly.

irocarter

iTrader: (1)

and would that help explain why my engine stumbles at part throttle sometimes?

JekyllandHyde

iTrader: (3)

A malfunctioning EGR can cause stumbling at part throttle. Did you verify that the solenoid is still operational? I chased down an EGR problem for 2 months on my car and it turned out it was the solenoid. Naturally, GM discontinued the F-Body ones, so I adapted one from a 95 Cadillac Deville to work. Worked really well on my car until I tore down the top half of my engine to do a heads/cam swap and I just deleted the EGR entirely.

I still think that the tune is your biggest issue. When you got the chip from PCMforless, did you specify that you have a manual in there now? The IAC strategies for manual cars are different from automatic cars.

irocarter

iTrader: (1)

yes, I did specify it was a manual to pcmsforless.I also don't understand the egr system enough to make a definite decision whether to delete it or keep it. It's a street car and there are no emission testing where i live. what other things should i take into account on the subject of "To Keep or Not To Keep" the egr?

JekyllandHyde

iTrader: (3)

The EGR is there to lower combustion temperatures, to lessen NOx emissions or something like that. What it does is it takes a small amount of exhaust gas from one of the exhaust ports and plumb it back into the intake track. This gas has no oxygen so it does not burn, and cools the combustion chamber. This also means that the air charge is contaminated. I took mine out because it's one less system to fail and cause me problems down the road. In addition, you get slightly more power (in theory) because the intake is no longer contaminated. To me though, I just don't want to have to deal with it anymore. There no more emissions testing for OBD I cars anymore so out it went.

irocarter

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Al
does it effect anything like fuel mileage? engine temps?

JekyllandHyde

iTrader: (3)

Matt I'm running a modified version of the Super AUJP tune which has a fairly conservative timing curve. This is tune for stock 350 cars with iron heads. I actually haven't noticed much of a difference in engine temps. Besides, the heads are aluminum so they can take more heat. I actually think the engine might be running colder. I know it's cold outside, but on an extended trip a couple weeks back, I had to do a double take at my temp gauge because I thought the temp was way low, but it was a notch or two lower than last year driving in this weather with iron heads.

I'm still trying to nail the tuning down so I'm either rich/lean all over the place. As far as gas mileage loss, I don't think you would lose all that much. Honestly, I haven't really noticed. I know for sure with the heads and cam, I'm burning a lot more gas, and I'm running Ford Lightning Injectors rated at 39lb/hr, which isn't helping I'm sure. Again, it's all in the tune and driving style. My car club recently did a long distance cruise, and my friend gp90gta with all his mods and 3.23 gears was doing over 20mpg. Oh, and he's running a 3000 rpm stall converter. He runs a Miniram with no EGR, AFR 195 heads, and a cam that's slightly bigger than mine, and his car is capable of 12s in the 1/4 mile.

Up to you if you want to keep EGR in there. If it's already in there, just keep it in but make sure that your solenoid is in working order. That solenoid can fail and it won't trip off the check engine light. (Happenned to me) It's a pain in the *** taking off and putting on the top plenum.

I spent Christmas working on the car's idle. I finally got it to stop stalling and actually idle pretty decently. Now I just have to work on the IAC routines to get it to stop surging 100rpms up and down every once in awhile.

irocarter

iTrader: (1)

If that's the case, I'm losing the egr on the next tune.
speaking again of gas mileage(like it matters right?) I'm running a 5spd,10:1,2.02s,24lbinjectors,3.42s,headers,3in exhaust, t-ram of course, and maybe 14mpg.
does this sound about right or do I have some room for improvement?

JekyllandHyde

iTrader: (3)

If that's a mix between city and highway driving, then that's pretty decent. I remember seeing a Motorweek special on the 91 GTA on Youtube and they said that they averaged 15mpg mix between city and highway driving back when the car was new and stock. Sure there's always room for improvement. Maybe gp90gta will chime in.

gp90gta

iTrader: (1)

If this is highway miles its not good imo, like Al said I average 20mpg on the highway and about 14mpg in the city, this is of cource cruising and not lead foot, I actually have a 3200 stall so it kills city mpg, when I was using the stock stall with the same setup city mpg was about 17. I really feel that if I change my tune a little more I could squeeze 23-24 mpg on the highway.

irocarter

iTrader: (1)

the mpg is rated on the distance of about 18miles to my favorite watering hole running around 60-70 having to shift from 3rd to 5th gears to this fine establishment(deer heads and beer bottles from the 70s and 80s-collectable of course)the only reason I go there is because they play both kinds of music... Country and Western!

JekyllandHyde

iTrader: (3)

In that case, this is mostly highway. You definitely have room for improvement.

Or you have a massive lead foot. Hahahaha

874ME

iTrader: (1)

There is room for improvement, substantial improvement. The last time I was able to put a couple hundred freeway miles on my car it got around 26MPG. It drove it for mileage and only stopped a couple of times. Around town was a different story, I blame my right foot and not dailey driving the car. I think it got around 15MPG. I'm sure it could have done better but it's rarely driven and it was so hard to not mat the gas pedal.

irocarter

iTrader: (1)

Yea, I'm 35yrs old but my right foot never grew up, it stopped maturing at around 17

874ME

iTrader: (1)

Lol, my boys always give me the "wtf" look when laying rubber. The do know what a proper burnout looks, sounds and feels like though. I have done a couple in my my truck and the boys give me crap for not "making the sun go away"They are 5 and 8 and already starting to ask if they can drive.

JekyllandHyde

iTrader: (3)

What valve cover gaskets do you guys happen to use? I was running these but they did not seal well at all:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-VS12869T/

So I went out and bought a set of these:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-1628/

Now the valve cover sits a little higher and the driver's side tank won't settle down because the 90* elbow that I use on the bottom of the tank for the brake booster line smacks into the valve cover. I've already clearanced the fitting, but it still won't fit. Do you guys use smaller fittings by any chance?

874ME

iTrader: (1)

The more important question is which valve covers are you using? When I put my combo together 12- 15 years ago the only covers I could find that cleared the Crower SS roller rockers and the side tanks of the T-Ram were made by Lingenfelter. I have used reusable rubber ( leaked like a siv), regular rubber and finally thick cork. The cork sealed it up and the covers cleared the side tanks.

If you have clearence issues look into new valve covers. My current cam has .580ish lift with those same crower rockers and there are no clearence issues.

JekyllandHyde

iTrader: (3)

I use polished cast aluminum valve covers by Billet Specialties. They are stock height valve covers. When I used the first set of gaskets, in my post above, the covers cleared the fittings on the bottom of the tank because the gaskets were thinner. Problem is, they leaked like crazy. So I went and got the thicker gaskets which are the same one my friends use in the second link above and now they're too thick. The fitting on the bottom of the driver's side tank hits the valve cover.

When you used the cork gaskets, did you use silicone on either side? I need to use a pretty thin gasket or find a smaller vacuum fitting. It's just the vacuum fitting that's hitting the valve cover.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I used the stock stamped steel valve covers with my comp SS roller rockers. Granted they were gutted and the hold down bolts were ground down to help them clear the valve angles on the TFS heads I was running.

irocarter

iTrader: (1)

Hey Jekyll, why couldn't you flip the tank to get the elbow on top or would it then hit the hood?
I have perimeter bolt style heads with 80s vette valve covers(so every whissled*ck that looks under the hood has to ask if that's a "vette motor").I use a Fel Pro reusable gasket with no silicon with no problems.

JekyllandHyde

iTrader: (3)

The thought did cross my mind but I didn't like the fact that it wouldn't look "clean" anymore. I think I'm just going to pick up a set of $10 cork gaskets from felpro and use RTV on both sides to get the valvetrain sealed up. I think that would be the best solution since the valve covers I got had the casting release marks on the sealing flanges (awesome design... not) and the marks are pretty deep so putting a dab of rtv on those spaces would be a good idea.

874ME

iTrader: (1)

Jekyll, thread the 90 degree fitting in as far as you can. It doesnt sound like you need much more room. You could aslo grind off the part of the fitting. It doesnt need all that material at the 90 for wrench flats.

The first set of cork gaskets were the thin. I siliconed them to the valve covers. They did not leak much. After swapping heads and cam last year I went with the thicker cork and siliconed them to the covers again. I dont think they are leaking, havent driven it enough to know for sure.

irocarter

iTrader: (1)

Anyone had any issues with the throttle cable being just a little bit mis-aligned with the throttle body? My gas pedal seems to have a "hard spot" at the beginning of the throttle. Sometimes I look like a real d*ck when leaving a light, and not on purpose.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I haven't but I do know the cable rubs the intake a lil bit..

JekyllandHyde

iTrader: (3)

You mean like the gas is hard to feather from a stop? On my car, I usually take off between 1500-2000 rpms from a light because I have a lightweight flywheel, and also because the gas pedal feels just a little stiff when I first push it down. Even the slightest push of the gas sends my RPMs shooting up, so I have to be really mindful in stop and go if I want to crawl or if I want to take off slowly.

I fixed the rubbing problem on my intake by switching to an 85-88 throttle cable. The cables are different with the earlier model cars. The earlier version has a plastic tube over the cable that covers up the part of the cable that rubs. I actually like it better since it gives me a better feel of the gas.

Flfinn

Here's my T/A's dyno vid couple of years ago. T-ram's gone, sold it few months ago. 355ci via T-5wc made 326 rwhp&540Nm (~400lb/ft). It was my best street engine so far, good to drive. Torq was enormous 1500-4500rpms! The throttle was a bit jerky. Had to launch full throttle if using slicks.

http://youtu.be/_zRhZtgRl3E

irocarter

iTrader: (1)

Hi Flfinn,
Out of curiousity, why did you remove the T-RAM?

Flfinn

I got the Dart's SHP 420 block+ported heads so i figured it'll max out the T-rams flow capacity and I didn't want to port it and GM847 pulls hard well beyond T-rams optimal rpm range.

JekyllandHyde

iTrader: (3)

I've heard from somewhere before that the SLP T-RAM makes a lot of intake noise. Everytime I open my hood and my engine is running, it sounds like I have a massive vacuum leak, but for the life of me I can't find any. Does anybody else have this "problem" or should I say characteristic with their T-RAM?

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I forget, what T-body are you using on the Tram??
I know some of the biger ones make "airflow" noise.