hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

IMO with all that chrome i think you should use a trick looking stainless steel rad hose... Very very nice engine bay.. This is definitely motivating!

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

There is hardly anything chrome the stuff that currently is i will must likely powder coat aluminum... as far as the hose gos i already have that covered but wont be doing that i think till swap in the built motor...

Stainless mandrel bends for the upper rad hose

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

WOw that is going to outlast the rubber lol

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

Im not a fan of the SS flex hose and they have per bent mandrel ss hose but its per... im doing something one off im going to follow the contours of the fuel lines then come slight out to the rad

Shadow13

So did you eliminate the heater box??

blakecharles

your car just gets cooler and cooler every day

Cameronrw13

Jupiter, where did you put and that wiring and the relays?

Jupiter

iTrader: (1)

The wiring for the alternator and a/c on the motor is routed under the motor. The wiring harness going to the a/c/blower/relays is under the a/c/heater box. There is plenty of room under it. The other wiring harness on the driver side is routed along the frame as seen in the proceeding pic. I will be changing that flex tube with factory square tubing or something similar. The cooling fan relays and other underhood electrronics i put on a home made aluminum panel as seen in the pic. I don't have a recent pic but that is what it started out like


I'll try and get a current pic later.

tom1985

Hey-Mine looks exactly as bad as yours, except the original owner had the car Zbarted, which sprayed that **** all over the engine bay-what a ****en mess!!!-It took me 4 days to get to the valve covers to look inside without dumping tons of disintegrated paint, junk oil etc into the heads.

There should be a tribunal for the engineers that designed this **** to get a few more MPG. Sorta like a "war crimes" ribunal, with full time search teams to find them out and punish them. It looks like they took 100 engineers with 1000 different ideas and picked 1 from each of them and somehow stuffed it all into the f-body

good luck! I need it too, along with hundreds of hours , if not more tedious work-what a waste

Termn8r

Jupiter. I just put in an MSD 6AL, MSD E-Curve 8394 Pro Distributor and MSD Ignition Coil. What does the Tach Adapter do for you? Are you still running a stock Distributor? If not what did you do about the computer crying that it lost control of the distributor? Just curious =)

Does anyone know where to get decent engine dressing for 3rd gens? IE chrome or painted cap covers, etc. Maybe a kit? I can't seem to find anything.

Jupiter

iTrader: (1)

I installed the tach adapter 'BEFORE i upgraded the dash/gauge cluster to an 89 GTA cluster' because i was getting 2x rpm reading 'dual pulse from msd'. I'm not sure that it is still needed with the 89 cluster+ecm but it was already wired into my 82 system and functioning properly so i left it. I'm running an old msd dissy and 6al but NO ecm. 1982 was very early in the computerization of cars and worked about as good as obamacare website so it was the first thing i tossed when i got the car. If your using tbi or tpi then you must have the ecm computer and i think it takes care of the signal issue.

Engine dressing is a dime a dozen at any auto parts or ebay. Keep in mind that a can of paint goes a long way when cleaning up the engine compartment. ALL of the paint work under my hood was done with a spray can. ALL accessories, brackets, bolts, headers, brake booster, master cylinder, firewall, radiator, gear box, etc..., ALL painted with VHT. The fenders were done with color matched to car put in a spray can then cleared with a spray can. The headers were treated with vht and cured in the oven. They stayed looking nice for the past 3 years but recently replaced with ceramic headers.

Termn8r

Thanks for the reply. Ya I have painted mine a bit as well, but looks nothing like yours.

Sergio Martinez

I live in CA, I'm not sure what can I remove and still pass smog. I'm also want to prep it to drop a LT1 in. I would like to know what complications should I be aware before I do so. I would like to clean out the engine bay before I do any big modifications on my 91 Camaro with the 305 engine.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

If you are swapping in an LT1 you can remove all of the thirdgen smog equipment as long as you use all of the LT1 smog equipment. You may find it easier and cheaper to purchase an entire 5.3 truck engine and use that instead of the LT.

Danny_VXH

I'm at it to.