When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Auto Detailing and AppearanceShare tips and tricks on how to make your Third Gen shine! Get opinions on products or how something tasteful looks on your Chevrolet Camaro or Pontiac Firebird.
is there a way to mount a pump on the engine with a electric clutch so a tanks not needed?i need my spare[eventhough it won't clear my front brakes]and my rear area if i have a flat to put the damaged tire in.
I know this is an old post, but I am goona go ahead and say no Zenish.
I am looking into do the air ride setup soon and wanted to know if people that have had it for a long time, have had any longevity issues. I wouldn't think so, but just curiuos?
Order mine too and should be here soon. So much good info here but the question I haven't seen answer was the how the air set up for front works with the tubular A Arms??? I see a few on sphons website but which to buy???
I kicked around using tubular A-Arms with my air ride, but I don't think it wouldn't be much of a weight savings after modifying them (either a plate mount on coil over intended arms, or a lower cup on coil intended arms).
I've been running the cool ride front setup for years with no trouble, but recently decided to add some more adjust ability using a screw style coil spring cup on the bottom side.
Do u have a pic or more info? I still have car on jacks waiting to do everything with oem parts ripped out. Btw if that is ur Camaro I show that pic, that's my favorite set up.
Do u have a pic or more info? I still have car on jacks waiting to do everything with oem parts ripped out. Btw if that is ur Camaro I show that pic, that's my favorite set up.
Thanks, sorry for the delay. The cool ride kit is bolt in with stock arms & k-member. But like i said i cut out the fat and added some gussets to bring back a little structure.
The cool ride lower plate probably wouldn't fit nicely on a tubular arm, and i feel the extra weight to make it work isn't worth it. Unless you build your own arms specifically for bags...
If you are handy with fab I threw a few dim's on these pics, could save yourself some cash and build the front cups/plate.
Upper cup dims (air fitting facing to inside k-member / stud drilled up through k-member & subframe, nut in engine bay). Use firestone 276c bag or similar 6" bag...
Arm side. 3/16 plate, and bolt hole to locate bag bottom.
Lower side cutout and gusseted. Not necessary to cut out, but was looking to dump some weight.
IMO depends on your budget and what your doing with the car. I've been running a manual setup, and it gets a little tedious airing to optimal pressures for handling, ride quality, or a low cruise stance.
Money no object I think a height sensor based system is great, and it'd be nice to get accurate preset heights on the fly. More so if your as picky as me for repeatably dialing in everything!
I like Accuairs products if your going digital, I'm just using their switchspeed manual controller now. It's upgradable to auto level (eLevel they call it) but they gouge ya on the controller re-flash and height sensors...
Yes but their systems are all mounted each part separately…the "airpod" is the entire system integrated together mounted together and covered with a black cover or pod…this makes the entire system one part and a little bulkier rather than being able to mount each component where you please
Yes but their systems are all mounted each part separately…the "airpod" is the entire system integrated together mounted together and covered with a black cover or pod…this makes the entire system one part and a little bulkier rather than being able to mount each component where you please
You can measure but I'm pretty sure the black box will only fit behind the back seat (on top of the tank) and block your rear view.
If you want the system "hidden" you have to go separate components.
Im in the middle of my install. Tank, compressors, and valve block is all in and wired up. Im just waiting for a good empty weekend to put the bags and brackets in and run the air lines.
No conclusions yet. Don't think I will get any either. I think I am going to buy the rear setup first, pick up some C6 GS 19x12s and 335s and a mini tub and MAKE IT WORK.
I think that will result in a crazy looking setup.
For those who have this. Is the handling with the bags any better (or worse) Vs coils.
Not talking about ride quality either, how does it handle over coil springs?
Now that I'm starting my yellow 86 Iroc build, I'm back looking at bags. From my limited research it seems Ridetech bags with accuairs controller will be the hot ticket, although I do have tubular control arms and K-member.
I am in the same boat. Figured I will have to figure it out add I go, when it comes to tubular and air ride. I will have to use the bag over shock rear setup with my mini tubs.
Why the accuair controller and not ridetech? Is it better or just cheaper? I ask because I know nothing about the accuair one.
I talked with tech at acuair and he specifically said their controller is leaps and bounds above ridetechs. He won't over all of the options theirs comes with and it seems REALLY great.
It has auto height adjust if you get an issue(or as parts wear gradually). It uses height sensors like on the newer air-ride stuff from teh factory.
Also, it has 3 presets that it can get to in 3 seconds (10% height, aka almost empty, low ride setting, and obstacle setting). You can also air it out if wanted.
I can't remember the rest now, but the tech there was nice and informative.
Complete system from them with the controller, and everything out the door was $2800 IIRC.
bump for any updated from you guys with bags already.
I picked up an acuair e-level setup. Not sure if I want to use it or go with ground control weight jacks. EVERY bagged car Ive rode in is way to boouncy.
I guess bags with some GOOD shocks/struts would make a big Diff.
Wish I was at the point of diving deeper into this stuff. I am still fixing the floor boards. After that I will be getting suspension parts.
Still need to call acuair.
Hesitant because air ride is (to me) a more well known name. And they have made some fast cars that must handle great. I would highly doubt those cars felt bouncy.
FSTFBDY: Sounds like you might have ridden in something with air bags that didn't have the right shocks. I am guessing the shocks are even more important than the bag, and most people think it is the other way around. Sort of like how body panel prep is more important than spray gun or even paint quality. Just my 2 cents.
Accuair and airlift performance are leap and bounds over ridetech you don't hear about much because there's no direct fitment to thirdegen but are well known in foreign car industry and in exotics you just hear air ride doing much of any new tech these days more meant for old skool hot rods that want to lay the Frame type thing and as far as performance it's kinda dated and IMO if your looking for a more for looks than performance than it do it's job just fine but
I would look into airlift in there DIY kit which I do believe comes with adjustable shocks struts and is built more like coil overs setup
You are correct. I think k shocks have a huge roll in it. 110% more then a bag. Firestone makes 90% of all the bags anyways.
Acuairair is nice because of the economy side of the system. Ride height sensors so the system can adjust on the fly by itself. I don't plan to run the strut bags because of the 18x9.5s up front.
Being I have the complete system I'll run it with some nice koni shocks and go from there. If it's **** I'll swap back to springs.
Is there any reason I couldn't use bags in the spot where my old springs were. I have a coilover set-up now and it ride like crap. I would want the bags just to give it some ride quility
You are correct. I think k shocks have a huge roll in it. 110% more then a bag. Firestone makes 90% of all the bags anyways.
Acuairair is nice because of the economy side of the system. Ride height sensors so the system can adjust on the fly by itself. I don't plan to run the strut bags because of the 18x9.5s up front.
Being I have the complete system I'll run it with some nice koni shocks and go from there. If it's **** I'll swap back to springs.
True I always thought about doing airride setup it but after weight Jack setup just seem more bang for buck and less hassle
Is there any reason I couldn't use bags in the spot where my old springs were. I have a coilover set-up now and it ride like crap. I would want the bags just to give it some ride quility
You can do bags where your stock springs go. Those you most common setup. the more expensive setups use a strut bag and replace both springs and shocks with a strutbag.
Originally Posted by Zach/90\irocZ
True I always thought about doing airride setup it but after weight Jack setup just seem more bang for buck and less hassle
I think either or will have good ride quality with the shocks you plan to get I had 1000front 200lb rear springs with Koni and was comparable to any euro tuned suspension maybe be tad firner women that tag along never complained and there the very girly variety lol
I think as long you get good quality shocks shouldn't worry about ride quality now I rode in a air equip e55 vs coilovers converted one only difference and ride quality was a bit firmer ride but not uncomfortable but when out thru paces the coilovers was more better and predictable
Some adjustable koni or kyb for cheaper end of adjustable shocks struts is the major key to the ride quality
It's funny I've only seen like 2 videos of thirdgen being bagged wish there was more out there
Originally Posted by FSTFBDY
You can do bags where your stock springs go. Those you most common setup. the more expensive setups use a strut bag and replace both springs and shocks with a strutbag.
Anyone ever try to modify the rear wheel area and the K-member to sit lower? Even with the bags compleatly aired out it doesn't lay frame. Wondering what would be needed in order to complatly sit on the ground.
Anyone ever try to modify the rear wheel area and the K-member to sit lower? Even with the bags compleatly aired out it doesn't lay frame. Wondering what would be needed in order to complatly sit on the ground.
Be pretty difficult task but possible would need to modify the pockets that bag sits in side to be higher not sure it be worth the trouble because even with no springs iirc my car didn't even lay on the frame but never look to see where extra clearance needed to be I'm sure around bump stop area and even then depending on tire size and how wheel well on front setup the tire will prevent it from fully laying frame in front as well
I was looking at using Detroit Speed as well. My build in terms of buying stuff is just an excel spread sheet at this time, so far off from buying.
Currently designing the dash (full custom) but want to know what components I should inlay like the air ride readout.
Got me thinking about shocks.
Since the shocks have to deal with being fairly low when riding a bit dropped, does anyone know if any shocks are designed for this?
Shocks have an optimal "middle" where they want to act from. Most shocks use stock ride height as a starting point.
Then dropping get them out of this sweet spot. Maybe DSE shocks can have this adjusted since those are pretty custom units.
If there isn't anything like this, then good Koni yellow, Bilstien (sp?) or others were also ones I had in mind. But again, those assume stock ride height.
This will just be a fun weekend show car so ultimate performance is not too critical. Don't think I will even get this car to handle like my daily C7 Z51.
Quick question: Since the goal is just to make a fun show car that parks crazy low, but is never driven crazy low, think it would be OK to just skip the DSE struts and get some Konis?
I already have SPOHN strut bearings, so not needing to sell those would be great.
Also, like I said before, handling will need to good, but not the primary goal of this build.
I'm running Koni yellows on my 89 GTA. I also have the Founders strut plates which raises the strut 2" so the strut doesn't bottom out.
I've thought about dehumping the back of the spring pocket on the k member which sits on the rear of the control arm when aired out. I can gain an inch there and i can also dehump the rear of the control arm to gain another inch. The issue is the top of the tire will hit the pinch weld of the upper frame since there's not a lot of room above the tire. You'd have to hammer it flat but I doubt the car will lay crossmember unless you cut and modify the frame above the wheel.
As the car sits, if I lose air in the front i can still drive the car.
I will be installing the Slam Specialties SS-6 soon so I can get an extra inch lift out of the front and use less pressure for ride height.
Do you have any images showing the interactions you are talking about?
I have done extensive sheetmetal mods to my car so doing a bit more to get lower is no big deal for me. I am not at the stage of buying air equipment yet, currently working on making custom dash, but any data you have would be helpful.
02-25-2013, 05:22 PM
