jazzdadss

I'm sure this has already been covered here somewhere but the search is not getting me there. I would like to know the proper placement of sealer when installing a new T-Bar on the roof. Obviously around the bolt holes but should there be sealer at the front and rear edge OR???

Thanks in advance.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Instruction Manual: https://skydrive.live.com/?mkt=en-US#cid=0AAAEFF08D9D620C&id=AAAEFF08D9D620C!318

jazzdadss

Thanks But I do not have access to that info.

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

I used a double sided sticky gasket on mine along with 3M weatherstripping gasket adhesive.

jazzdadss

Well, I used black seam sealer. ran it around all the bolt holes and ran a bead on the front and rear to fill in any gaps. No water is getting in there now.

I do have a question. From test fitting I saw that it could only be installed one way. Slotted holes to the front? I am concerned because the center bar (visible) looks high in the front where it meets the windshield frame. It sticks up 3.5-4mm higher than the frame. this is a used T-bar I bought from a reputable third gen seller on e-bay. It is straight, no bends, very good condition. My old one was rusted and was destroyed when removed. I just don't remember it sticking up higher than the windshield frame?? Something tells me Id better find out before I glue new weather-strips in place. Any help would be Sweet!

jazzdadss

This just seems to be sitting too high in the front???????

bedbed

Looks like the one on my '82. Not sure when transition was but think later models were more flush. Early hatch panels have a plastic trim on the edges is the reason I believe.

Ron

jazzdadss

Sooooooooooooooo as far as we know this wont work? Do I need to rip this thing off and buy a correct one?

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

On my 86,it sits a little higher at the front,not much maybe an 1/8th" or little less and is flush at the rear.I really can't tell how high yours is,(bad pic)maybe you should put something their so we can compare just high it is.


I took a quick pic as you can see mine is up at the front also,it appears to be high but it isn't

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

Not a great pic, but you can see it sits lower in my car.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Mine sits slightly higher in front as well, 1/8" as mentioned.
Do you have the screws in, or is it just sitting there? They will snug the piece down. I finger rolled out some butyl rope into thin strips and wrapped them around the screw threads for added protection.
If you PM me your e-mail, I'll try to send the file to you. It's 16MB PDF, though.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

I scanned two pages for you

jazzdadss

WOW! Thanks for scanning those. I wonder where someone could score those rectangular foam blocks. I'm sure it is a closed cell foam. I always wondered what filled the front and rear void. My sealing pads are history so I just ran a few beads of seam sealer in their place.

Other than that can anyone verify that the slotted screw holes in the finish panel go to the front?

Thanks all for your help and getting me some pics!

Pac-Attack

Here is the a link to an online copy of the manual if anyone wants it.

https://drive.google.com/a/pac-attac...it?usp=sharing

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

I could not find the sealing pads that go under the t-top bar. Found some Norex butyl coated foam rope. It should compress down further than my straight butyl rope. Looks like this:http://www.glasswarepro.com/2360168-...aspx?o=special

I went to an auto glass shop and asked to by 5 or 6 feet. It has a foam core so it compresses, unlike solid butyl rope. I cut small logs and made a 'log raft' to fit in there, then used 3M weatherstrip adhesive to fill-in around it. You can find this for individual sale on amazon if you look, but your local auto glass co. will have it.

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

TEDSgrad
Thanks for the diagram!! Very useful, as I now know I have none of the foam pieces in our T-bar!!

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

The manual is part of a service bulletin to fix waterleaks. I bet those foam blocks were an addition in order to troubleshoot leaks - not factory standard. I've pulled several bars in the JY, and never found them.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

I would NOT recommend installing that T-Bar yet.




ALL that old adhesive has GOT TO GO. It looks like it's completely blocking the t-top seal channel. Even the old sealer on the upper part of the divider needs to get scrapped off. If the weather-stripping "lip" doesn't properly slip under that channel all the way around the opening than you will almost certainly have sealing problems. The rubber lip should slide under that channel all the way across the front/back of the roof AS WELL AS each inside edge of the T-Bar.

Be SURE to use extra sealant at each end of the T-Bar (front/back) as well as each of the 'A" pillar and 'B' Pillar corners,... otherwise you will have leaks.

I use soft Urethane from 3M in all the t-top weather-strip channels. The local body shop supplier carries it in 2-3 different bead sizes and it remains "soft" and can be molded easily, NOT like windshield urethane that gets hard. I think a roll of it was like $13 & IIIRC I used a roll of 3/8 and a roll of 1/4". (I do NOT recommend silicone ! ) Sorry I don't have more / better pics,..... !

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

http://www.rubbersheetroll.com/rubber-sheets.htm
This is the stuff I used.
You can get it w/ adhesive or not.

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

What do you do??make your own T TOP gaskets??

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

That rolled Urethane gets pushed into the weather stripping channel by the weather-strip when it's installed. PUSH HARD ALL THE WAY AROUND to be sure the weather-strip is fully seated inside the channel ! Not a gasket so much as adhesive used to seal the weather stripping to the channels all the way around the opening.

I'm pretty sure I used the 3/8" on the front and back body channels and the 1/4" urethane roll for the T-Bar channels. I also used the 3/8" for the pillar corners by forming it around the T-Top bracket at the top of the 'A' & 'B' pillar channels.. I do not use urethane all the way up/down the "'A" & 'B' pillars - just at the upper corners.



Also a good idea to cover the screw holes with this stuff too. You can see how I used a screwdriver to push the urethane into the channel before pushing the weather-strip in place,... makes installing the rubber a little easier since the urethane is a little 'formed' before working the rubber into position.



If ANY old adhesive is left in place then the weather stripping will not fit properly into the channel that was designed to hold it in place - and create a seal. IMO, all traces of old adhesive has GOT to be removed in order for a successful 'water-tight' installation.

jazzdadss

Thanks, This is really uncovering some great information here!

Can anyone confirm that the slotted holes go to the front?

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

I like that,it's a much uniform way in applying the adhesive sealer.

jazzdadss

Well I wouldn't install it yet but it is already stuck. I will destroy it getting it back off. I cleaned the channels up with scrapers, picks and small screwdrivers. I went ahead and put everything together for a test fit and everything looks good except the front. I guess I will just have to live with it cause I cant force the end of it down without deforming the crown on the finish molding, Any thoughts?

89fast5oh

That bar looks like it it bent up on the end. It should be pretty much touching the glass when the tops are installed. On my car the bar sits flush against the glass front to back. With it bent like that I would question the sealing ability.

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

The seal is created by the weatherstrip rubber seal underneath the glass, and the weight of the glass, NOT between the bare bar and the bare glass.
It doesn't look terrible, just a little off. Every few months, peal the seal back and try to re-torque the screws down to see if it will settle.

jazzdadss

Yeah, My old finish panel was flush from front to rear also. I know this doesn't seal anything, I just worry with such a big gap that the water will pool in this spot and just cause more issues down the road.

jazzdadss

I do have another question? What would be best to refinish the outer finish panels on the T-Tops themselves?

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

Zaino Z16 : http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...duct_Code=Z-16

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

http://search.eastwood.com/search?p=...core&view=grid
This is good.

89fast5oh

That might make it black, but its not going to fill in pits from the sun damage.

jazzdadss

All right, A small update. I finally got the nerve to hit it! Taped up the surface and used a very careful locating of a wooden block at the very edge as to not destroy the crown in the finish panel and surprisingly it went down fairly easy!




I also went ahead and refinished the outer finish panels. Taped off and cleaned up with some 400 grit and applied 4 light to medium coats. This stuff works pretty good!

89fast5oh

Looks good.

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

Glad you got it to fit. "Sometimes all it needs is a bigger hammer." lol
The T-tops look great.

jazzdadss

I do have another question??
When adjusting the T-Top height , from the exterior, should the glass be flush with the body and the outer finish panels poking up a bit? Or, should you push the glass down so that the outer finish panels are flush with the sheet metal?

Thanks.

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

I would try to get them flush so that sheetmetal and glass are at the same level. It may not be possible to get it perfect so don' beat yourself up over it.

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

Here is a pic of how mine sit. They are even with the body.

jazzdadss

Thanks fellas!

miamivice

this post is very helpful, thanks for all of the info guys!

FL TA

iTrader: (1)

I love the dual watertest stands and the dollar bill test shown in the GM tech service manual posted in this thread.

Typical GM at the time. Make a specialty part showerhead rig only used in shops when a good hose and sprayer head would do. I wonder how many techs actually used that thing or bothered to check the pressure the hose attached to it was putting out?

And then go from that overkill to a simple one dollar bill 'test' with powder marking (cocaine residue on it most likely) to check a window seal. Really.

I love the 80s.

NCC-2569

iTrader: (1)

I need to remember this and try it myself. I've got the same issue and don't know why that is.
My only fear is that by hitting the bar, something could happen to the studs along the bar itself. The deformation can't just stop at the upper part.

I assume you removed the t-tops before hammering around?

jazzdadss

I would think mine was just bent upwards from the guy I bought it from while prying upwards to get it off. YES, I removed the tops before striking the finish molding. I used plenty of masking tape as to not mar the finish and on the windshield frame as to not scratch the paint. wooden block at an angle like \ and with a few gentle whacks it was where it needed to be. I only hit it at the edge of the finish panel NOT FLAT as the finish panel has a crown to it. Don't want to flatten it.

1991_RS

(Many Thanks!!!)

jazzdadss

^^^^^^^^^^^^ YES, THANK YOU!

thomas1976

This sounds good, do you have the part numbers of the soft 3M Urethane?

89fast5oh

Old thread I know...

What is everyone using for a new sealing pad at the front/rear cut out areas and the rear foam pad?

I put new weatherstripping on last summer but it is still has a leak coming in from under the center bar.

Is everyone using foam pads or just using a gob of sealer under the bar?

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

Post 19
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...ber-sheets.htm
These come self adhesive also.these were on for awhill now and no leaks,YET

amorpheus86

What thickness of sealing pad did you buy?