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Hello,
Ive been searching for a warerleak, which lead to water on the drivers side floorboard. In the picture, the red arrow is where the water stays, the green arrow shows where the sealer was cracked and the water leaked in.
I have sealed from temporarily from the inside.
My question is, where is this area if wieved from the front of the vehicle? Is this the fenderwell or somewhere behind the fender? Firewall?
If you look at the 4th photo in post #142 in the thread linked below, you will see that a large percentage of the outside of the cowl side panel is accessible with the plastic fender liner removed. My photo is of the passenger side, but I would expect the driver side to be the same, or better.
I checked some more before removing the inner fender and here is what I found. WWhen pourinf some water on the area in the engine bay, wher the hood release cable is, water pours in on the toeboard. The water shows up in the same location as when washing the car or during rain.
Ive sealed the hood release cable and the two small connectors. It seams that when I pour the water a little faster the water gets in through the bottom part of the big c100 engine connector.
Has anyone experienced this, and how should I seal it?
its probably a rust hole or leak in the cowl seam. if its just the through holes, perhaps the grommets are not in the firewall?
have you looked inside the channel where the windshield wiper mechanism is?
it is also the fresh air intake for the cabin and often gets clogged up with stuff and rusts out.
here are some more pics from the area. i have tons of pics of stripped 85 trans am and others if people need them.
I definitely have a leak where the c100 is, which is mounted low quite close to the fender where some water drains. Pored water at the corner of the windshield and it drained down of inside fender and leaket at the contact into the floor
To seal the connector area, you could use putty. Any home hardware store should have the stuff used to seal electrical connections going into a house or meter box/weather head. A not as good alternative is the waterproof electrical sealing tape. This stuff stays pliable and does a good job of sealing to itself but is hard to mold into and around odd shapes. The best would be to use the putty to get into tight spots and then wrap the whole thing up with the tape. You don't need to remove any paint but make sure any loose stuff or old sealer is removed and the area is clean before you make your new seal. HTH!
Thanks Ill look for this putty. I was thinking about using some Hylomar or Plastic Padding liquid gasket, since I have it at home. Its really sticky stuff!
Ive seen som pictures of this c100 connector but it seems there is no grommet.
Seems strange to me, since water could enter from above or from the fender since its mounted so low. Maybe there is a grommet on the inside? If so mine is failing...
Not sure about a grommet, but you should seal it from the outside. By using putty, you can mold it into and around the connector housing allowing you to seal the cable/wires were they enter the connector thus making that water tight also. The tape would be kind of a dress up to cover the putty. The sealer you have, is it pliable enough to get into small holes or cracks? You really want to seal this area up so you don't get any trapped water laying around the seal or possibly under it causing unseen rust in that area.
Yes, the sealer should work, and its resistant to chemicals including petrol.
Now on to the next challenge.....The connector is real dirty around where it meets the firewall, and I think I need to remove the engine bay side to clen it properly before sealing.
After I got the rack holding the maf relays, I can see the bolt in the center of the connector. Is unsrewing this bolt all I have to do to remove the front connector? Any locking tabs, and if so where are they located? Im a bit nervous to mess this connector up somehow....
The bolt is all you have to remove. It's a pain, I think it's 9mm on the engine side and 3mm hex on the inside.
I think you will find some sort of rust or other damage when you pull it out. Water shouldn't be able to enter so easily. If the grommets are in place.
Yes it was a pain to reach! Had to go buy a new set of sockets, spanner etc, 1/4 size. Also couldnt but a single 1/4 socket, so had to buy a set of imperial(or what ever its called) sockets too. The 1/4 is used for the center bolt of the c100.
The grommet was actually more like a gasket, and it was teared in one side. I glued it back on the rear connector(cabin side) using plenty of liquid gasket.
The brand I use is Plastic Padding, which does cure fully(unlike Hylomar or Permatex) but still is very flexible.
So put everything back, let the glue cure and then did the same test as before, but this time no water leak
I will probably seal from the outside too, just to be sure...
05-24-2015, 01:03 PM
