Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I purchased the "Soft Seal" brand of weatherstripping for the doors and installed it without any real issues-- until I tried to close the door. The weatherstrip on the bottom of the door seems to be too thick. The hinges are in good shape, the door doesn't sag or scrape on the striker or the bottom of the door jamb but still the weatherstripping in that area won't allow the door to close. I peeled the weatherstripping off the front and bottom of the door and it closes without difficulty.

I've read the threads where people install new weatherstripping and it is tight and they have to slam the door and leave them shut for a while to allow it to take form but I can't even close the door. I've tried slamming it and pushing it close. I'm at the point that I'm afraid to try to push or slam it anymore for fear of denting something.

Any suggestions?

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

I'll have some feedback from my install after the holidays. Is the problem on both sides?

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

I would maybe try to heat it up with a small propane torch (without damage) then try to shut the door so it can conform to the metal around it.

But if you can't even come close to shutting it, that my not even help....

blacksunshine'91

iTrader: (10)

If going the heat route, I would recommend a heat gun before I'd use a propane torch.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Agreed 100%. I was lighting a fire with a propane torch right before I typed that.

redneckjoe

i can tell you one thing that has worked for me that you might try.
open the rear hatch. get a ratchet strap or 2 and ratchet the doors closed, towards each other. climb out the rear, and leave it like that for a good day or two. warm weather will help, possibly even spraying a little wd-40, etc on the rubber first.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Also, remember that the weatherstrip closest to the front of the car is likely causing the problems. So focus your efforts there first.

Why can't these door close like modern vehicles? I know they're 2X-3X heavier but every weatherstripping discussion talks about how much they suck.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Its that thick pad on the front top.

Make sure its seated into the triangular windiw guide and under the window sweep

Massage until it fits properly. If you have new sweeps you may need to trim sone iff the front edge. The soffseal is thicker than factory. Seat it all the way scew down and check if the door closes. When happy with fit use windshield adhesive to glue it in place...also out some on the triangles point on the front. When done close the door and let it settle and dry. Vaseline the rubber so it slides easier without hanging up.

I just installed mine. Took some finessing but they are fine now

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The heat gun on the highest setting did the trick. Heated it up and then slammed it shut. I'll leave the door shut for the next week. I was afraid to put any oily or greasy dressing on it for fear of it igniting while I was heating the weatherstripping or it staining the door jamb (Arctic White paint) while it sits closed for the next week.

I have heard furniture polish (Endust) and Dilectric grease are the best to use for seals as they don't make the seals swell. Anybody else heard that?

And I will definitely be using the window adhesive on the weatherstripping now that I know how tight it is. Don't want this tearing from the door when opening/closing them.

The thick pad at the front and top of the door wasn't the issue, at least not the entire issue. When I found out the weatherstrip was the issue I peeled it off a Few inches at a time starting in that corner and the door would not close until I had the entire front and 3/4 of the bottom peeled off. I think most of the problem was the bottom.

The idea about the ratchet straps to force the doors to latch is a great idea too!

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I waited four days and opened the door and it looks like the seal has taken a form to the door jamb. I sprayed on some of Meguiar's hot wheels purple tire dressing (stuff is thick and greasy, I hate it for tires but seals it works well for) and closed the doors for a few more days. The door closed a little easier this time. I'll definitely be buying the weatherstripping adhesive next time I'm at the store.

thtanner

iTrader: (1)

I used Soft Seal and the door was harder to shut for the first month or so. Took some serious umf.

It's honestly great now.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

The gap on the bottom of the door seemed a little tight but it did not drag. I bought the door latch adjustment tool from top-down solution and adjusted it up slightly. For what it's worth, the door closes easier now. Makes sense that the lower the door sat in the door jamb the more the lower door weatherstrip would need to compress thus it would be harder to close.

Ron U.S.M.C.

You can adjust the angle of the window outward a bit at the felt pads and the guides in the door.
Either that or only roll the window up enough to get a good seal when you close it.

You would also be surprised at the air vacuum in the car when you try to slam the doors. If you don't believe me open the passenger window and you will see the difference when closing the drivers door with the window up.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Good suggestions but my issue was only with the weatherstripping around the door jamb- not window. I also have a convertible and had the windows down the whole time too. After I did the weatherstripping I worked on replacing the window motor and adjusting everything. I took lots of pictures to do a write up later. I've spent my free time across three weeks now working on the solenoid part of the shaved door handles, weatherstripping and setting up and replacing everything inside the door.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

The window/motor is pretty simple after you dig into it, isn't it??

I just did the same thing and the most difficult part was figuring out the window regulators assistance spring. Took maybe 3 mins and I figured it out.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Agreed, it's not hard. Took me longer than normal because the previous owner really screwed it up. All the adjustments needed moved, the hooks on the bottom of the window were broken or epoxied on, motor needed replaced, two of the guide wheels were broken.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Time well spent ! I remember when I re-did my seals/doors that it took me a LONG time and a LOT of adjustments before I was finally satisfied with the way the door/window/seals were set. Once the door panel is re-installed,.... I HATE needing to go back in there for something because it was forgotten or not done right the first time ! The factory shop manual was VERY helpful in figuring out what tracks to move so the window glass would shift in/out & back/forth to correct specific sealing problems and which way to adjust the tracks so that the window was properly adjusted. Getting the "window filler" adjustment correct was mostly trial and error after that.

I used NOS GM seals and it took a few months before the seals 'formed' in the track/body and the door became easier to close once again. Just when I got used to pushing the door closed firmly while swinging it shut - I had to learn to start closing it a little easier again !

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I've heard the GM seals are far and away the best but I just didn't have the money to spend that much on seals. What did you think of them?

The windows seal well to the weatherstripping but like I said earlier, the previous owner had the windows off and the seals became folded and formed incorrectly so I need to buy the weatherstripping for the convertible top side now.

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

The GM weatherstripping fit perfect,.... But; being in a box for 20+ years wasn't the best thing for them. They were in the package for so long there was 1 or 2 "distressed" areas where the seals were bent/folded to fit inside the original GM boxes.

I've also installed aftermarket seals & they simply do not fit as well as GM,... but Fairchild door seals were close to GM quality. I would only recommend them for aftermarket brand weather strip. SofSeal and MetroSoft are might be cheap and "fresh" (brand new), but are low quality products compared to Fairchild stuff.

1Aauto

We carry the Fairchild door weatherstrip. These are just like the originals


1982-1992 Chevy Camaro OE Style Door Weatherstrip Seal Pair

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

I bought my weatherstripping and sweeps from 1Aauto and am having the same problem. Door isn't even close to shutting......Haven't really dug in yet but will tomorrow.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

What brand is it? How close is the door on the bottom?

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

This is the stuff I bought. I'll get a pic of the manufacturer today.

https://www.1aauto.com/1AWSK00106/i/...BnbWFpbC5jb20=

The problem at the front where it transitions from the thin part to the larger part that wraps around the window triangle. That area seems to be much harder than the rest.

chris schaner

GM all the way, aftermarket products sucks you may pay more for GM but you,ll always have better results and a perfect fit ,A old saying my Dad taught me when restoring a car ,you pay more but the bottom line is quality

thtanner

iTrader: (1)

My Soft Seals are amazing after several months. Perfect seal after they formed to the door. Will use them again on the next third gen I get without hesitation.

blacksunshine'91

iTrader: (10)

Normally, I'd agree with you 100%. NOS GM door weatherstripping would be nice, but they are pretty hard to find. I saw one set on ebay a while back and they were asking over $600 for the pair. I'm all for GM quality pieces, but that's a bit much for door seals.

blacksunshine'91

iTrader: (10)

Its going to take a while for them to form properly. Just have some patience.