chesterfield

Sorry about the pic quality, but here's a hose option. GM used this style on some apps and I've used them. The ferrule in the inset fits over the 3/8'' tubing and tightens into the hose fitting with a female tube nut. the hoses cost around $25 each at my local hydraulic supplier. You can get straight sections of 3/8" gm o-ring tubing from a gm dealer then cut in half, make sure you got the right tube nuts, then bend to fit where you want them to point. Cut the metal ends off your existing PS hose and measure for the replacement custom hose. A nice benefit of this setup is if your rubber sections ever get old you can replace them and still have the metal parts to reuse.
You're going to have to adapt your pedal rod to fit the 3rdgen rod. Get a die and thread it or take a chance on welding it together. here's the thing. your pedal has to be adjusted so that there's absolutly no pressure on the unit when the pedal is up. You want just the slightest amount of slack so you have tight pedal response but there's not continuous pressure.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

TB2 said that it sat perfect, all he needed to do was make a bushing. I'm gonna look into all of it, regardless to make sure everything lines up kosher.

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

any clue on this 4th gen mc fittment

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

Not a clue. Still need to get one. Shoulda ordered it from the same yard I got the booster, but that's in the past now. Gonna order it from the same yard, as Autozone/Checker want $165 for the thing, and the yard wants $25 shipped.

TB2

iTrader: (1)

Hey Guys, sorry I haven't updated my progress in a couple weeks. But I have been busy on other parts of the car, trying to get it ready for springtime, and haven't done anything else to the HydraBoost yet. I plan on ordering my hoses within the next week or so from these guys. They will have anything needed as far as Hoses go. But you will need to know what to ask for. http://www.krcpower.com/catalog_c269958.html

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

man...im gonna start makin a list of **** to do to this hudro setup, i gotta do my 9 inch rear and my k member and tubular front arms...coilovers and then hydroboost, i went on a little shoping spree las week got some parts to instal...

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

Cool, this is perfect for when I go to a boosted setup. What's the dimensions on the pedal rod bushing?

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

Stupid question, but which fittings are which? The lines were detached on the one I pulled.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

On the booster? The bigger one is 18mm, smaller is 16. They were substantially different, but if I'd have to guess, the 18 is the one on the same side as the pressure canister.


The proper AN fittings can be got at summit, 16mm metric O-ring to -6an, and 18mm metric o-ring to -6an.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294906509

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

So the 18mm fitting is the inlet side? Luckily I have the fittings, but everything else was torn off.

Dan W

I just picked this one up from a junkyard off of Car-Part
Its off of a 2003 Mustang GT w/o traction control (I think cobra uses the same part). Notice that the master cylinder has downward pointing ports for the brake lines. Those two ports on the right side have bleeder screws in them. Note that the hydra boost on this one is rotated 90 degrees to put the accumulator in the up position on the engine side. Hopefully this will give me the room i need to run it in the factory orientation. Also notice that the flange on the master cylinder is orientated vertically since the hydroboost has been rotated.

Dan W

Notice there is a block on the left side of the hydraboost.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

Keep us updated, looks like it's gonna be interesting. As for my setup, finances have taken a turn for the south, so I dunno when it's ever gonna get in there.

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

yeah i found out you can also use a 03 3'4 ton gm truck hydroboost unit also...i want to see if this mustang one works out

Dan W

It was only about $65 from car-part... in any event, it looks like the angle of the mounting plate is the same for the mustang one as it is for the fbody but I think the bolt pattern is different. I'll know more this weekend.

french 82camaro

Hi guys
I'm new on this forum,i'm french and got a 82 camaro.
I'm very interest in put hydroboost on my car so i wan't to be sure that i understand what i read on the forum(my english is so bad)


-Is it possible with no big modification to put an hydroboost, from astrovan for example(direct fit on 79 corvette,a friend did it),and keep the original master cylinder??

- what are the things to do to put an hydroboost for mini price??

jstoltz

iTrader: (16)

there needs to be some mods from what I understand no matter what.

TB2

iTrader: (1)

HYDRO BOOST IS DONE!!!!! And it works great! Ok, here's what it took. Booster is from a 94 Astro. It bolts right up using the bracket off of the old vacuum booster. (Drill out the rivets) I know on an earlier post I said the rod is the right length, but it's not. I don't remember what I was drinking when I measured it, but it must have been good, cause it was about 3/4" short. Since the old booster is long gone I cant tell you exactly how short. I ended up making mine adjustable. You can get the adapters to adapt the saginaw hose fittings to AN fittings at most Circle Track suppliers, or I got mine from KRC along with their full PS pump and serpintine setup. (Nice ****!) I used the stock master and machined down the neck that goes into the booster approx. .050. But from other posts it sounds like a gen4 will bolt in. Anyway it works awesome, and if you have access to some tools (you'll need a welder to legthen the rod) its a fairly easy swap. Good Luck!

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

any pics...

jstoltz

iTrader: (16)

for the rod couldn't you use a piece of threaded rod and just add the correct ends? I don't know where to get them though?

TB2

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for the slow response. I've been working a ton of O.T. To make the rod, I used the Brake Pedal end of the old Vac booster's shaft. (By using the old Vac Booster end you will not need to make a bushing for the HydroBoost end) Then I took a 7/16" fine thread bolt, cut off the head, and welded it to the end of the old shaft. For the other end, I cut all but 3/4" of the shaft off of the Hydroboost. Then I the took a 2" peice of tube, tapped the I.D. with a 7/16" tap, and welded it to the end of the shaft. Threaded it together with a lock nut, reinstalled it into the car, and adjusted.

Dan W

TB2, the accessory setup you are running looks like it would work for me... can you give me the details for your pullys, bracket kits and the power steering pump your running?

TB2

iTrader: (1)

Everything came from KRC Pump. http://www.krcpower.com/index.html It's a 30% reduction serpentine setup, normally used on circle track cars. Nice S***!!!

Dan W

I spent an evening on mine the other day...
I wanted to keep it as clean looking as possible so I didn't try to adapt the stock bracket to the hydraboost. I cut down the flange from the hydroboost unit to mount to my firewall and discovered that the rod was about an inch too long. I looked at shortening the rod but geometry would become an issue... I thought about welding a tab on the brake peddle to relocate the stud but decided to modify the mounting bracket instead. I cut the middle indexing ring out of the bracket and welded the indexing ring and the flange to opposite ends of a 1" piece of 2.5" pipe. I cut the firewall end of the pipe at a little bit of an angle to get the mustang master cylinder at the same angle as the stock one. I had to made a socket out of some scraps so I could install/remove the bolt inside the 2.5" pipe. Here is a picture of the bracket tacked together for a test fit... I need to tweak it slightly to get it as close as possible to the strut tower and find/make a bushing so the rod will fit the stock stud on the brake peddle.

jstoltz

iTrader: (16)

hydroboost still working OK TB2? also do you possibly have any pics of the rod at all? I am going to try and get some of the brackets made that will replace the one on the booster itself and eliminate the one from the vac booster. the rod I read over and over and seems easy enough but I may just have some made from scratch. and I want to see yours to see the easiest way to make them. I would rather try to do this and just sell the brackets and rod that way we can all do this swap for less than $300 hopefully and have a nice billet bracket and stainless lines so it will look good and hopefully outlast the car.

TB2

iTrader: (1)

The Hydro Boost is working excellent! If your running a big cam and have no vacuum and want to keep your power brakes, then this is definently a worth while swap! I just picked up a set of Brembo Calipers off of the new Mustang Shelby that I will be putting up front this winter. Thats another story though. Sorry, I didn't take any pics as I was making the rod. I can try and get under the dash to get a couple pics, but it's pretty tight up there, and I'm not sure what we will see. The rod was easy enough to build though. Just a 7/16 bolt with the head cut off, and welded onto the old pedal end, and a 2" long piece of small tube threaded inside to accept the bolt, and welded to the Booster end. You will need to have access to a welder though.

C.M.Jones

I would do this swap but i worry obout shortening the rod and also putting in a new fitting in my power steering reservoir can i get a diagram of how you ran the hoses?

Dale

iTrader: (12)

How about weight? How much more does this unit weight?

Anyone tryed to adapt an astro van power steering pump so you dont have to to tee the lines?

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

As far as I know, the Astro pump will bolt right up. You just need to figure out where to stick the remote reservoir.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

Ah, got it.


ok, some weights I looked up according to partsamerica.com shipping.......

92 fbody booster, 11.8
94 astro booster, 18.0

92 fbody pump, 10.5
94 astro w/o res, 10.0

pump partnumbers for pump w/res are different between fbody and astro, hum...

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

The hydro unit definitely ways more, plus you'll have weight in extra lines and all of that.

And the part numbers are different because the reservoirs are slightly different, I believe. Don't quote me, but I think all Saginaw P series are essentially the exact same pump, just different reservoir cases, and probably shaft lengths for pulleys.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

With the Astro hydraboost (HB) I don't believe you need to T the lines together. I've been checking these out in the U-pull yard to see how GM put the system together.

There is a remote reservoir that sits high on the cowl. This is where the P/S fluid level is checked and fluid added.

The HB unit returns to this remote reservoir. This reservoir has a line to the P/S pump. The pump (from what I have been able to see) doesn't have a cap/dipstick.

The P/S box returns to the pump reservoir.

Pressure from the pump goes to the HB unit, then on to the P/S box.

So on the HB unit there is:

high pressure in (from pump)
high pressure out (to P/S box)
low pressure out (return to remote reservoir)

On the P/S box:

high pressure in (from HB unit)
low pressure out (return to pump)

Then a line that runs from the remote reservoir to the pump.

I guess the question is: do the two lines to the pump have independent fittings on the pump reservoir? They may or may not. It's difficult to see the pump because of the location. It helps when someone else has removed the parts that hide the pump

If I remember I'll take a camera next time I go to the yard and get some pic's.

RBob.

Dan W

Did you mean to say:
low pressure out (return to remote resevoir)

Dan W

Here is the bracket i made for the Mustang hydroboost unit. I made a socket also so I could remove the nut.

I'm having slight problems with the power steering lines. I would prefer not to run the adapter fittings that go from the 16mm x 1.5 and 18mm x 1.5 to -6AN because the adapters add $40-$50 to the job. The AN fittings and hose are both about twice as expensive as std. hydraulic stuff.

I've heard people say that they have had these lines made by a hydralics shop but all the local shops are all telling me that this is not a fitting that they carry. A couple of them mentioned that they could fabricate a fitting by welding, etc but this is not the route I want to go since it seems rigged and will also add significanty to the cost.

I just want a simple hydraulic hose with a 16mm x 1.5 o-ring fitting on one end and an 18-mm one on the other end. Why is this so hard? Anyone have a local shop that can make this?

RBob

iTrader: (1)

The return from the P/S box goes back to the engine where the pump is located. With the remote resevoir high on the cowl that portion is a given. One line in from the HB, and a return to the pump.

The only place the P/S box return could be going is back to the pump.

RBob.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

I feel your pain, I went through the same thing trying to get a line from the pump to the P/S box (w/o HB). Shops had boxes of the SAE flare fittings, but a saginaw that could be crimped onto a hose, forget it.

I ended up browsing an auto supply catalog for an off the shelf P/S line until I found one that would work. Took a while but did find one. Had the proper 16mm and 18mm ends on it with the correct length and bends that were close enough.

If it helps, the returns are low pressure, and the 16mm fitting can be found on GM return lines on the P/S box end. These can be used with a hose clamp.

An end that will fit the AN adapters can be had as a JIC 37 degree fitting. Using the adpaters only on the high pressure side will help in reducing costs. Then having standard hydraulic lines made up with the JIC fittings.

RBob.

Dewey316

Dan,

There is a great shop here in Portland, that I am sure would set you up. If you can't find one soon, let me know. I need to make a trip in there to get a couple of fuel lines made for my other project. I can ask about that fitting, or even the whole hose if you know the length.

Their web address is: http://www.oilfilterserviceco.com/

(Note: They have always been summit or online prices for aeroquipe stuff i get from them, they are a HUGE aeroquipe dealer)

Dan W

Sounds like a good option but I just ordered the hose and crimp AN fittings from http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/
They had good prices but I'll still need to order my AN adapters seperatly. It will cost about $90 for everything... I just have to get the fittings crimped.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

RBob, I dunno about Astro's, but I know on our cars the low pressure return from the steering box goes to a cooling loop under the radiator, which then returns to our pump reservoirs. If there's no other input on the remote reservoir though, then it has to go to the pump.

jstoltz

iTrader: (16)

after talking to Paul a while back about it he recommended a setup like this. And he also referred me to another company that sells a remote res with an fittings (and is baffled for hydroboost) which I prefer over rubber lines for safety and aestheics. and the sweet style pumps can be used as long as they are around 1600 psi.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

That looks to be an Astro van setup. The open ended line that is toward the rear is the high pressure feed to the P/S box. The P/S return line is missing.

Is there another port on the back of the pump? Still figuring out where the P/S box really returns to.

RBob.

jstoltz

iTrader: (16)

that is actually off a 1999 Chevy G3500 van

RBob

iTrader: (1)

RBob.

jwscab

On a chevy full ton chassis cab we have, the return lines for both the hyrdoboost and power steering box both return to the pump body. No fittings go to the reservoir.

incidentally, you can buy new premade hoses for this truck(probably others) and they probably would be close to fitting a camaro. 1981 1-ton chevy w/hydroboost. cheap too.

the seach function at rockauto.com is awesome!

jstoltz

iTrader: (16)

Hey TB2 the astro van unit that you used did it have the angled or straight bracket originally how does the bracket come off? I will hopefully get a chance to start mine soon. also did you ever get a chance to snap a pic? I just want to make sure I know exactly how it should go before I start.

TB2

iTrader: (1)

I used the straight bracket, just like the pic. I tryed taking a pic of the rod under the dash, but none of them came out. It's buried pretty deep. The best deal on hoses is through KRC. http://www.krcpower.com/catalog_c269958.html You can screw all the fittings onto the hose together yourself, they are not pressed together like hydraulic.

Just to make sure everybody is on the same page as far as hoses.
1] The pressure line comes from the pump to the HydroBoost.
2] The second hi pressure fitting on the Hydroboost goes to the Gearbox.
3] If your gearbox, or remote resivoir does not have a second return fitting, the 2 return lines can be tee'd in together.
Hope this helps. Mine has been working great.

tpiroc

TB2... have you been spying on me? I attached a pic of my HB setup that I compiled a while ago using a stock vacuum booster bracket, Astro HB unit, and 4th gen master cylinder... (The irony is I only had the bracket available because I removed it to install a Camaro booster into a Cadillac - which was removed for factory Diesel HB unit).

[Regarding HB: Hydroboost is different, but it works. I set up my Street/Strip Coupe DeVille with Hydroboost, Corvette master cylinder, Wilwood prop valve for custom four wheel disc with pretty good results. My daily driver is a Sedan DeVille Diesel with Hydroboost - FYI; If that system fails you loose steering and brakes! OH NO!]

RBob

iTrader: (1)

OK, got a good look at an Astro van P/S pump today. Of course didn't have the camera, so I'll describe it.

The Astro P/S pump has a round reservoir, no neck or such. At the top slightly angled toward the driver side is a tube for the hose from the remote reservoir. This hose is larger then the typical P/S line and has a regular clamp on it. This is the fluid feed from the remote reservoir to the pump.

Recall that the HB low pressure return is to the remote reservoir. Mounted high on the cowl.

On the back of the pump is a tube for the return from the P/S box. Again, low pressure and uses a clamp.

Also on the back is a high pressure fitting for the line that goes to the HB unit. This is the high pressure to the HB unit, which then continues on to the P/S box (via another fitting on the HB).

Key item here is that the low pressure returns into the pump are not T'd together. T'ing the return lines can cause issues where it slightly applies the brakes.

All in all this appears to have some decent hardware for a conversion.

RBob.

superirocz

iTrader: (5)

I just picked up my brand new 94 astro HB and the directions say to reuse the old pushrod,spring,retainer from the old HB. All I have is the pushrod from my stock vacum setup. Do I need to get that spring/retainer or can I just use my old pushrod and bolt on my 4th gen master.

superirocz

iTrader: (5)

I just ordered the clip/spring and baffle for the 94 astro van from the dealer. You can not order the pushrod without buying the factory hydroboost so I hope the thirdgen is the same length