Todd Chastain

Ok, I know for sure that my rear breaks are not workin. I have disc brakes by the way. I took the drivers rear wheel off today and I could see that the pads had not contacted the disc. My parking break won't work either. Any idea how to diagnose the cause of the failure. What can I do to find out what exactly is wrong with my brakes. Thanks.

daferris

iTrader: (8)

Sounds like you have the same problem that my '88 Had.
I am guessing that the rears calipers are iron instead of the '89 up alum ones.

The problem is that the caliper has a screw that goes thru the center of the piston to work the e brake that screw is "stuck" that is why neither e-brake or the hyd brakes work. only soultion is to rebuild the calipers OR upgrade to '89 up PBR alum ones or '98 up LS1 rear disks (both need the e-brake cables from the doner car) OR if you want to delete the e-brake the front calipers should fit the rear...

Todd Chastain

How do you get the car inspected if the e-brake is deleted? I need mine to be inspected, can't do it if the e-brake is gone.

daferris

iTrader: (8)

Only cheap soultion is to get rebuilt calipers AutoZone has them for $45 each Fenco reman part C254 core is $72 each Again this is if you have the Iron rear calipers. the E brake cables should be good as they are plastic coated and normaly just need a shot of WD-40 to free them up. Once you get it fixed the BEST advice is to use the E-brake EVERY time you park it that seems to keep it from siezeing up the best.
To convert to the PBR or LS1's would cost more as you need to change every thing Backing plates, E-Brake cables, line to calipers and rotors...

Dave

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

True, but the effort would be worth the time. Here's what you'll need should you decide to go that route:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...iscs-89-a.html

JamesC

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

They can be adjusted, but they'll just fall out of adjustment again. They're crap. There's a fix kit for it, but I think it runs a bit of coin, and I'd rather just swap to a better caliper. Keep an eye out for an 89+ parts car. If you can snag the rear axle out of it, do. Pretty easy bolt in job, only fabrication might be the e-brake cable.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The Delco-Moraine iron calipers get a bad rap, but with the rebuild kit (and I'd guess all remains have it) and with use of the e-brake, they work passably well--at least mine did. In spite of that, however, I converted to PRB's.

JamesC

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

Actually, not all rebuilds have them. I checked when I worked at a parts store. It's hit or miss really. If they had the kits guaranteed it wouldn't be that hard to live with. I hate mine, not only have they fallen out of adjustment, but because they're out of adjustment the pads just rattle around in the calipers. >.<

Todd Chastain

Ok, I replaced my calipers but now they are leaking at the fitting. I tightened them very tight but they still leak. How do I get them to stop?

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Did you use new crush washers?

JamesC

89RESTO

iTrader: (5)

Make sure you have a brass washer on each side of the banjo bolt.

daferris

iTrader: (8)

You should have a copper wassher on each side of the brake line where the banjo bolt bolts it to the caliper.
Also did the brake line or the caliper has dirt or something on the sealing surface?
Dave

Todd Chastain

Yea, the copper washers are there. I just took a closed end wrench and tightened them even more, they seem to have sealed now. But, I am back to my orig. problem. The freakin e-brake will not work. The rear pads are contacting the rotor when the brakes are applied but they don't seem to be getting tight enough. I bled the brakes, adjusted the e-brake cables, Not good enough. Getting frustrated!

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Try driving around for 15 or 20 minutes to warm pads/rotors, then press on the brakes as you pull the e-brake.

JamesC

daferris

iTrader: (8)

These are the Iron calipers... Correct?
If so, I can scan the pages from my Helm shop manual on them for you.
Send me you e-mail address to me at daferris@cablespeed.com...
What usually do however is take the lever off the caliper for the e-brake turn the screw till the pads touch rotor then turn the screw back only enough to get the lever back on the hex. that seems to help but they still stink?
As the post above states... Apply the brakes then pull the e-brake hard then let off the brakes and then let off the e-brake the more you do that (like at every stop lite) the better they will work.