joshwilson3

89 with rear drum brakes. One of my rear wheel cylinders blew leaking brake fluid everywhere. What tools are needed to remove the drums/springs to replace the wheel cylinder?

Autozone has a bunch of tools listed, but not sure exactly which ones to get.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...mString=search

eseibel67

You don't need any special tools to do a wheel clyinder. But 25736 and 4591 are inexpensive and make the job of installing the shoes much easier. You should also get a line wrench (I think it's 3/8", but I forget) so you can remove the steel brake line without stripping it. I would recommend that you soak the line and fitting with penetrating oil for a day before you try to remove it oe else the line might twist right off when you loosen it.

white gold 88

IIRC the clip that holds the wheel cylinder is a PITA to get back in. Especially the new one they send. I made a tool to push the clip in.

joshwilson3

Yeah, I plan on getting the tools to remove the springs as I'm sure it is a pain without them. And I do plan on soaking that hard brake line. I was going to get the rubber brake hose for the rear replaced a while back. But a mechanic told me it would be better left alone since those hard lines could easily get damaged trying to unscrew them.

Do the shoes need to be replaced since they probably are covered in brake fluid? I read somewhere that if the shoes get covered in brake fluid from a bad cylinder, then you have to replace the shoes. I say it would probably be a good idea to go ahead and replace them, though I already had them replaced a while back.

joshwilson3

I've read you use a 1 1/8" socket to put it back on.

white gold 88

That would probably work if I didn't have the line in the wheel cylinder already. Put that in first to stop fluid loss.

Not sure I'd want that 20 year old rubber line on my brakes. Ever had one blow out? It gets pretty scary. Ya kinda need dem thangs if ya wanna stop. LOL

Shoes are pretty cheap so I'd figure a new set. Good luck.

joshwilson3

I bet getting a shop to install/bend new rear hardline would be expensive if they bend it trying to replace the rubber line.

Yeah, new shoes are cheap if I can get the drums turned. If the drums can't be turned, then thats $100 for new drums. But if the drums can't be turned, I may just replace the cylinder as that would save me from tearing into the other side anyways.

paulo57509

The only tools you'll need for brake shoe R&R are tools like the 25056, 25736 and a spoon like the 25239 (see your link).

Wheel cylinders either bolt to the backing plate or are held in with a retaining ring.

Flare nut wrenches are highly recommended to remove the hydraulic line.

Something like this is a nice to have, but not mandatory to get the shoes adjusted close enough before slipping the drum back on:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...GFV4XXE51R275V

joshwilson3

I've already got the flare wrench. Just have to hope it unscrews and doesn't kink the line as that would be expensive including the tow. I'm going to get those spring compressor and puller tools. On adjusting the shoes. I've read you rotate it while adjusting till you get some drag. Then back off a little. Something like 12 clicks. Then do some reverse stops to finish setting it. I'm going to replace the springs since those are like $3 for the kit.

82crossfire305

iTrader: (2)

work on one side at a time this way if you forget you can use the opposite as a referance, i almost made that mistake

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

I take drum brakes apart with NO TOOLS WHATSOEVER; just my bare hands. Doesn't take 10 seconds to have all the pieces laying on the ground.

I out em back together with a pair of lineman's pliers to hold and twist on the retainer things that go on the pins, and an old wasted #2 phillips to put the return springs on.

You don't have to change out the whole wheel cyl; it's a major pain to get th eclip off, and often getting the line off of it is no fun either. If the bleeder still works, just rebuild them. I would STRONGLY suggest a new "hardware kit" though; makes putting it back together and adjusting it, a snap. Don't have to deal with a bunch of rust and brake dust funk from some 20-odd manitenance-free years.

joshwilson3

The wheel cylinders are only $10. Not really worth it to spend the time to rebuild them when they may not be rebuildable. The clip is a pain to remove, but wasn't too big a deal to install. The next one I get I hope has rear disc brakes.

Jason444

iTrader: (6)

How do you get the rear clip to hold the new wheel cylinder on? I have tried pushing it on with the 1 1/8 socket, but cant get enough leverage to push it far enough to make it lock....any other suggestions?

joshwilson3

Have you tried hitting the socket with a hammer? After I got the clip halfway on. I used a flat head screw driver and hit it on one side then the other of the clip with a hammer to get the tabs to click into place. Make sure to use a mirror to check it.

Jason444

iTrader: (6)

Got it. Thanks!

stahrman0612

Those retainer clips SUCK!!! My passenger clip fell offlast week causing the plunger on the wheel cyl. to pop off. Brake fluid was everywhere. Bought new wheel cyl, brake shoes and spring kit. Went ahead and rebuilt both sides. Took me forever to get that clip to stay put!!

paulo57509

Google Lisle tool no. 18800. Designed for X and J bodies, but I bet it would work on others.

karl's-92'-z28

iTrader: (5)

Anybody got a pic of this clip? I have rear discs on both my cars. I think i know what they look like, but i wanna be sure.

paulo57509

Pic #3:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...846-post1.html

karl's-92'-z28

iTrader: (5)

Thanx Paulo, yeah thats what i figured they look like. You van use 2 large flat heaf screw drivers to put it on & use a hammer & screwdriver after to make sure its on good. I bought a tool because i worked at Midas.