[MI] 1986 Chevy Camaro Z28 - RUST FREE, 80k miles, NEEDS NOTHING
02-21-2015, 08:55 PM
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1986 Chevy Camaro Z28 - RUST FREE, 80k miles, NEEDS NOTHING
Located in Howell/Hartland area. For pics, please see the craigslist ad:
http://flint.craigslist.org/cto/4902161604.html
Come get it now that the weather's turning; spring is just around the corner! Clean, clear, green title in my name.
1986 Chevrolet Camaro Z-28. This is NOT an IROC car, just a regular Z. I bought this car 2 years ago from a gentleman in Clinton Twp, primarily because this car has almost ZERO rust on it. Underneath still looks almost brand new (I've seen cars only a year old with more rust than this one); the fuel and brake lines are original, and still look like they did when the car rolled off the showroom floor. This is NOT a winter car and is always kept covered up in the garage.
The odometer reads around 80,000 miles, and the way it looks, runs, and drives, I believe it to be original. I had it resprayed when I bought it because the paint was faded (stripped all the trim and ground-affects before taking it to the paint shop). Last summer I had an incident with a friends gravel driveway and the front "chin" spoiler; I resprayed it, but there is a spot (pictured) where the paint chipped and is starting to lift. Still looks good, but if I was keeping it, I'd have it professionally fixed at a shop (estimated $200-300). I also have a spray can of the matching paint left that goes with the car (not sure how much paint is left in the can). There is also a spot in the driver's side door jam that looks like a seat belt buckle got closed in it (also pictured), but these are the only 2 "major" things wrong with the body. You'd still be hard-pressed to find too many of these cars as clean as this one in Michigan.
The interior is in pretty fair shape. The dash and center console are pristine. The headliner is good; the carpet and seats could probably use a cleaning if you're picky (tan is a harder color to keep clean). One of the previous owners was a smoker, and there was some odor when I bought it. It seems to have gone away, but there may be some lingering that someone new to the car might notice. The leather steering wheel does show some wear (but not bad), and the rear plastic pieces under the rear glass are sun faded (see pic), which is the biggest issue with the interior.
Aside from the engine bay needing a good power-washing, the mechanics of this car are in fantastic condition. It has a carbed 305 v8 and a 700r4 (Automatic O/D) trans, and a 3.08:1 rear diff. No, it's not a 10 second drag car, but she'll move when you want her to, and will get around 25 mpg highway. I installed long-tube headers and a TRUE dual exhaust system with an H-pipe. The exhaust doesn't have mufflers, but it's not incredibly loud (my single Flowmaster on my old 84 was just as loud). It wouldn't be hard to install mufflers if you still wanted to quiet it down a bit. It has a rebuilt, non-computerized Quadrajet Carb on it with a vacuum advance distributor. Carburetor has DR rods metering the secondaries, and doesn't hesitate off the line if you decide to get into it. The only thing about the carb is that it has a manual choke (was that way when I bought it), but if you want it to be more user friendly, it's very easy to add an electric choke; the electric lead for the factory choke is taped up in the wire harness. I just never bothered to change it over.
You may be looking at the pics and wondering what the gauge on steering column and the red safety switch on the dash is for; the gauge is an air/fuel ratio gauge. Since the computerized carb was replaced with the non-computerized one (before I bought it), I installed it to monitor the air/fuel ratio, since there's now nothing to trigger the "check engine" light, and I wanted to know if something suddenly changed in engine operation. The Red safety switch can be used to turn on the Torque converter lockup. There is a vacuum switch controlling the torque converter lockup, and it works perfectly, but I had the safety switch laying around, and always like having added piece of mind where possible. It could easily be replaced with a more conspicuous switch for those who want a more original look. I also installed a trans cooler in front of the radiator as added insurance for the trans. The oil pressure gauge sometimes doesn't want to work (needle sticks at zero when it gets shut down, sometimes doesn't free itself until it's been driven for a little while), so I installed another one out of the way, under the dash, for those times it doesn't register, just to be sure the oil pressure remains good.
I started it up and let it warm up this afternoon to make sure everything was operating well and that there are no leaks from the engine, trans, or cooling system. The engine smokes slightly when it first starts up after sitting for a while (very normal for these engines), but the oil level never goes below the add level between oil changes (3k miles). My old 84 with 36k original miles (same engine) smoked and leaked more when I bought it. Cooling fan kicks on at proper temp, and all the pressures were good.
Brakes were new when I bought the car (13k miles ago), and are still over 50%. Suspension and steering components are in great shape. The rims are original, and are almost mint; I added new center caps last summer. I replaced the tires with wider-than-stock ones when i bought it, and they have over 60% tread left. I took it out to PA for vacation the two summers I've had it, and with the wide tires and suspension, it is a LOT of fun on the mountain roads; it handles better than many newer cars on the road.
Options: power windows, locks, Cruise Control, A/C (retrofitted to R-134a when I bought the car, turned it on this afternoon to make sure the compressor's still engaging). It also has an AM/FM CD stereo with aux input. I took out the CB radio seen in the pics after I took the pics this afternoon (used to be my grandfather's). It does have a full-size spare wheel, along with a lug wrench and jack. There is also a Dixie horn (like the Dukes of Hazzard) installed on the car, with a switch to change back to the factory horn when desired. I may or may not be leaving it installed on the car.
Price: I've been looking at other cars like this on the market right now, and have checked the NADA collector car guide. I'm asking $6000. However, I am open to all REASONABLE offers, as there's obviously some small cosmetic issues with the car, and there seems to be some variance in the market. I'm also open to a possible trade for an air-cooled VW Beetle, preferably in the 68-74 model year range (though open to other years as well). Remember, aside from the carburetor, exhaust, distrubutor, and chrome engine components (have original valve covers and air cleaner in a box), this is a virtually unmolested, original car, that hasn't been tampered with too much. A lot of the issues it had when I bought it have been straightened out, and a lot of work has been put into getting it to where it is today. Spring is coming, and this would be an awesome car for someone to enjoy through the summer.
I've covered most of it, though I'm sure I missed something; I've tried to describe the overall condition as best as possible. I have most of the records of all the work I've done on the car since I bought it. Like I said, it's a very good car, which overall needs nothing done in the near future. A perfect blank slate for an upgraded engine, or just drive and have fun as-is. I have extra parts that come with the car, including a used (but still good) fuel pump, and several extra carburetor parts. Please call with any questions 248-5O4-l67l between 10AM and 10PM; if you get my voicemail, just leave a message and I'll get back to you. I will also respond to emails. I'll try to get back to you in the order I receive calls/emails, but obviously, first-come, first-serve. Because of the condition of the car, and that it has yet to see a winter, I will be very selective about test drives, depending on the weather and how much snow/salt is on the ground, and how serious you are about the car. Also, I don't plan on adding the summer insurance back on until the weather is consistently better, so until then, test drives will be limited to my apartment complex. I will ride along on all test drives. If the add is still up, the car is still for sale. Thanks!
Key words: thirdgen, pontiac, firebird, trans am, volkswagen, bug
http://flint.craigslist.org/cto/4902161604.html
Come get it now that the weather's turning; spring is just around the corner! Clean, clear, green title in my name.
1986 Chevrolet Camaro Z-28. This is NOT an IROC car, just a regular Z. I bought this car 2 years ago from a gentleman in Clinton Twp, primarily because this car has almost ZERO rust on it. Underneath still looks almost brand new (I've seen cars only a year old with more rust than this one); the fuel and brake lines are original, and still look like they did when the car rolled off the showroom floor. This is NOT a winter car and is always kept covered up in the garage.
The odometer reads around 80,000 miles, and the way it looks, runs, and drives, I believe it to be original. I had it resprayed when I bought it because the paint was faded (stripped all the trim and ground-affects before taking it to the paint shop). Last summer I had an incident with a friends gravel driveway and the front "chin" spoiler; I resprayed it, but there is a spot (pictured) where the paint chipped and is starting to lift. Still looks good, but if I was keeping it, I'd have it professionally fixed at a shop (estimated $200-300). I also have a spray can of the matching paint left that goes with the car (not sure how much paint is left in the can). There is also a spot in the driver's side door jam that looks like a seat belt buckle got closed in it (also pictured), but these are the only 2 "major" things wrong with the body. You'd still be hard-pressed to find too many of these cars as clean as this one in Michigan.
The interior is in pretty fair shape. The dash and center console are pristine. The headliner is good; the carpet and seats could probably use a cleaning if you're picky (tan is a harder color to keep clean). One of the previous owners was a smoker, and there was some odor when I bought it. It seems to have gone away, but there may be some lingering that someone new to the car might notice. The leather steering wheel does show some wear (but not bad), and the rear plastic pieces under the rear glass are sun faded (see pic), which is the biggest issue with the interior.
Aside from the engine bay needing a good power-washing, the mechanics of this car are in fantastic condition. It has a carbed 305 v8 and a 700r4 (Automatic O/D) trans, and a 3.08:1 rear diff. No, it's not a 10 second drag car, but she'll move when you want her to, and will get around 25 mpg highway. I installed long-tube headers and a TRUE dual exhaust system with an H-pipe. The exhaust doesn't have mufflers, but it's not incredibly loud (my single Flowmaster on my old 84 was just as loud). It wouldn't be hard to install mufflers if you still wanted to quiet it down a bit. It has a rebuilt, non-computerized Quadrajet Carb on it with a vacuum advance distributor. Carburetor has DR rods metering the secondaries, and doesn't hesitate off the line if you decide to get into it. The only thing about the carb is that it has a manual choke (was that way when I bought it), but if you want it to be more user friendly, it's very easy to add an electric choke; the electric lead for the factory choke is taped up in the wire harness. I just never bothered to change it over.
You may be looking at the pics and wondering what the gauge on steering column and the red safety switch on the dash is for; the gauge is an air/fuel ratio gauge. Since the computerized carb was replaced with the non-computerized one (before I bought it), I installed it to monitor the air/fuel ratio, since there's now nothing to trigger the "check engine" light, and I wanted to know if something suddenly changed in engine operation. The Red safety switch can be used to turn on the Torque converter lockup. There is a vacuum switch controlling the torque converter lockup, and it works perfectly, but I had the safety switch laying around, and always like having added piece of mind where possible. It could easily be replaced with a more conspicuous switch for those who want a more original look. I also installed a trans cooler in front of the radiator as added insurance for the trans. The oil pressure gauge sometimes doesn't want to work (needle sticks at zero when it gets shut down, sometimes doesn't free itself until it's been driven for a little while), so I installed another one out of the way, under the dash, for those times it doesn't register, just to be sure the oil pressure remains good.
I started it up and let it warm up this afternoon to make sure everything was operating well and that there are no leaks from the engine, trans, or cooling system. The engine smokes slightly when it first starts up after sitting for a while (very normal for these engines), but the oil level never goes below the add level between oil changes (3k miles). My old 84 with 36k original miles (same engine) smoked and leaked more when I bought it. Cooling fan kicks on at proper temp, and all the pressures were good.
Brakes were new when I bought the car (13k miles ago), and are still over 50%. Suspension and steering components are in great shape. The rims are original, and are almost mint; I added new center caps last summer. I replaced the tires with wider-than-stock ones when i bought it, and they have over 60% tread left. I took it out to PA for vacation the two summers I've had it, and with the wide tires and suspension, it is a LOT of fun on the mountain roads; it handles better than many newer cars on the road.
Options: power windows, locks, Cruise Control, A/C (retrofitted to R-134a when I bought the car, turned it on this afternoon to make sure the compressor's still engaging). It also has an AM/FM CD stereo with aux input. I took out the CB radio seen in the pics after I took the pics this afternoon (used to be my grandfather's). It does have a full-size spare wheel, along with a lug wrench and jack. There is also a Dixie horn (like the Dukes of Hazzard) installed on the car, with a switch to change back to the factory horn when desired. I may or may not be leaving it installed on the car.
Price: I've been looking at other cars like this on the market right now, and have checked the NADA collector car guide. I'm asking $6000. However, I am open to all REASONABLE offers, as there's obviously some small cosmetic issues with the car, and there seems to be some variance in the market. I'm also open to a possible trade for an air-cooled VW Beetle, preferably in the 68-74 model year range (though open to other years as well). Remember, aside from the carburetor, exhaust, distrubutor, and chrome engine components (have original valve covers and air cleaner in a box), this is a virtually unmolested, original car, that hasn't been tampered with too much. A lot of the issues it had when I bought it have been straightened out, and a lot of work has been put into getting it to where it is today. Spring is coming, and this would be an awesome car for someone to enjoy through the summer.
I've covered most of it, though I'm sure I missed something; I've tried to describe the overall condition as best as possible. I have most of the records of all the work I've done on the car since I bought it. Like I said, it's a very good car, which overall needs nothing done in the near future. A perfect blank slate for an upgraded engine, or just drive and have fun as-is. I have extra parts that come with the car, including a used (but still good) fuel pump, and several extra carburetor parts. Please call with any questions 248-5O4-l67l between 10AM and 10PM; if you get my voicemail, just leave a message and I'll get back to you. I will also respond to emails. I'll try to get back to you in the order I receive calls/emails, but obviously, first-come, first-serve. Because of the condition of the car, and that it has yet to see a winter, I will be very selective about test drives, depending on the weather and how much snow/salt is on the ground, and how serious you are about the car. Also, I don't plan on adding the summer insurance back on until the weather is consistently better, so until then, test drives will be limited to my apartment complex. I will ride along on all test drives. If the add is still up, the car is still for sale. Thanks!
Key words: thirdgen, pontiac, firebird, trans am, volkswagen, bug
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