92droptop

I'm looking to get an amp to power an Infinity Kappa Perfect DVC 10. So far the only amp that i have found that puts out the rated 350W RMS at 2 ohm is the crunch V-1200. Anyone ever run one of these or know if it's a decent quality amp.

What other amps would you use to push power to this Sub??

Also has anyone had any success mounting the Infinity Kappa Series 4x6's and 6x9's in their cars. If so how much modifying had to be done. I've heard they don't fit to well, but I've heard them in a friends car (not a thirdgen) and love the way they sound

scrawnywhiteguy

Hey got to www.chrutchfield.com check out their amps. They should have all the info you need on the amps. As for a Crunch amp, I've never heard of them.


Tim:rockon:

mcss383

in a word, no. hehe

They are just like Pyramid, just a different brand name. As a matter of fact I think they are owned by Pyramid....

I would say just search www.thezeb.com www.mmxpress.com and ebay and find a name brand amp (new) that you like. You can get it MUCH cheaper than buying it at a store or through crutchfield. Just beware, some company's don't honor internet sells and won't have a warrenty, JL Audio is one of these. Read the fine print before you buy.

Kj Rockz

Never heard of them, but it sounds like it's probably crappy/

89blackGTA

ya, you dont want to power such a nice sub with a crap amp. JBL 600.1 will run you about $195 with shipping. There is some room to grow with that amp as well. Kappa Perfects are sweet subs and if you power it with a nasty a$$ amp you wont enjoy all that it is worth.

Brian

Black88GTA

I'm currently running Infinity Kappa 4x6 plates (4" woofer, with 1"tweeter) in my dash and Kappa 6x9" 3-ways in back. The 6x9s dropped right in, but the 4x6 plates were kind of a pain in the a$$. I haven't looked at new speakers in a while, so I don't know what the current Infinitys measurements are, as I got my speakers probably 3 years ago now. I did this install a few years ago, but as I remember one of the sides (don't remember which one) has an air duct running through it that has a little circular indentation molded into it for the factory speaker. I ended up not having to cut it at all, I just stuck the magnet of the larger 4" speaker in the plate inside, and it fit (barely). I then drilled new holes and screwed down the corners that had support underneath them. I know, not the cleanest install in the world, but it doesn't rattle, fits well under the dash pad, and sounds good .

92droptop

Thanks for all the feedback so far. How much power do you think that i can run to the sub safely if its rated at 350 Watts at 2 ohms with a peak power handling of 1400 W?

fly351

push them at peak.

i heard its actually not good for a sub not to be backed by its full capibilities.

-fly

Black88GTA

Actually, you want to run as close to the RMS rating of the sub as you can. The peak power rating of a sub (or amp) is not very meaningful. So, if you have a sub rated at 350w RMS @4 ohms, then you want an amp that delivers 350wRMS @4 ohms. Its not good for subs to run too little or too much power to them - most people don' t realize this, but more subs blow out from not having enough RMS power than from having too much. If you try running a sub with an amp that delivers 20w RMS, it'll sound horrible and blow the sub, due to the fact that when you crank the volume up on this setup, the head unit is asking the sub to do something that it's not being given the power to do. So in your case, I would get a good quality, name brand amp that's rated at 325 - 350w RMS@2 ohms.

mudaholic

the jbl bp300.1 puts out a rated 300 rms into 2 ohms, the bp series amps are underrated tho so its probably closer to 350.. it's a great amp, its clean power and it can be had for about $150.. but like was said before, you might want to put down an extra 50 bucks and just double your power with the 600.1.. keep your gain settings modest and you should be fine, perfects should be able to handle it no problem

Polecat

actually, untrue as old myths have it.
Underpowering subs does not hurt them at all. If a sub is rated at 300 watts RMS and 600 peak, peak is just the max power rated for safe mechanical limits.
Underpowering subs is just that, underpowering them. What does hurt them, is when you have a 10" sub, and a cheap 50 watt amp, you crank it up, and the gain, pushing distortion into the sub. That is the bigger killer.

Hope this helps.

Polecat

see other post above..pushing at peak more will create added heat in the voice coil, causing premature failure.

biff85ta

I have a crunch amp and it seems to be a very good amp but I think mine is an exception to the rule as others that I hae seen and dealt with from crunch have not been half the amp mine is and the have all been about the same power rating of 200 watts RMS so I guess I got lucky.

AJ_92RS

That's basically what he was saying. It doesn't matter if you have a 50 watt Kicker amp (noticed you're from Stillwater ), or if you have a 50 watt Jensen amp. The common problem is not the lack of power to the sub. It's the lack of bass from the system.

If someone has ANY sub that has an RMS of 350 watts, and they push it with a 50 watt amp, then the normal reaction is to turn up the amp, bass, volume, loudness button, or EQ to get the "DESIRED" sound. By doing so, they're causing the amp to clip. When the amp clips, it flattens the variation of current that goes to the sub. It's the same as hooking it straight up to a DC battery and leaving it there. That's how the voicecoil heats up, then seizes.

If you push the speaker beyond it's mechanical limits from too much power, you will more than likely cause the same thing, but not the same way. You will hear the speaker making funny noises and that SHOULD give you a clue to turn it down. When an amp clips, it's much harder for the common guy to hear it (taking into account the true audiophile is more likely to hear it.)

From my personal experience, I'd rather have a 500 RMS amp pushing my 350 RMS sub. For one..... subs are cheaper to replace than amps. For two...... any speaker I've blown was because I was under powering it. Once I was preparing for an SPL comp... and the night before I was "tweeking" it and *POW*!!!!! Smoke.
The other time I think it may have been more from the heated voice coil. My car was sitting in the sun for 8 hrs on a 100* day, and I got in, dropped the glass, and cranked the tunes. The voice coil didn't like that.

AJ

Polecat

True, my post was for clarification...it is not from due to lack or power, just the pushing of distortion from the lack of power. that is user error..not the amps.

CreatiVe2

I have two crunch 4800TMC amps and they hit real hard.... weell mainly b/c of the two 12w3 Subs i have... i hit around 130 SPL.... but that was before the JL subs.... with my crappy Cerwin vegas.... but heres a pic of my setup....


This is the system a year ago


These are the current subs in the car...

330hp_91RS

Crunch is not crap. They have been around for at least 10 years. Check out their Fat Boy subs!!! Not everything that is not brand name and is fairly priced is crap, remember that. Sony = good, or at least many think so. Crunch = much better than sony. Sony = Hitachi parts ( remember Hitachi )

They are decent amps for the price but considering that the one for like 160 bucks is 300 watt and the 500 watt is 180, get the biggest one, you can always turn the gain down.

Oh yeah, when I was an installer and CROSSFIRE came out, we though it was pretty crappy stuff. ( campared to Rockford and PPI ) Now everyone rants and raves over it.

89blackGTA

Rockwood and Kenford have also been around for that long, are they good in your opinion?

Brian

330hp_91RS

I knew someone would bring this up.

No they are not good. They cost about half of what crunch sells for.

All I am saying is that these amps are decent. They are not as cheap as they could be and because they are nor dirt cheap and have been around for quite some time, they have innovated and are continously making better products.

Anyone ever heard of Sherwood??? Most of you probably think it's crappy. WRONG. Fantastic sound quality and power. I have a 75x4 and it rocks. Dual power supply and dual cooling fans. Don't judge the book by the price or the cover. Ask for honest, experienced opinions. the rest of my amps are Alpine and Rockford, I have a quality system. Including the Sherwood.

CreatiVe2 has a nice system with these amps. 130 DB out of those weenie Cerwin Vegas is good, 130db period is loud. He says they are decent and have given him no problems, thet should tell you something.



By the way:

I found a place that has these amps really cheap. Go to
http://www.justamps.com/Amp_Pages/Cr...-Drive_new.htm
I did not see the V1200 but you should just spend the extra cash and get a big one, that way there is always room to improve the system.

AJ_92RS

Holy Crap!!!!! Are they still in business????

My first system in my first car was a Sherwood cassette deck with a Sherwood amp. That was in 1987!!! It was a '65 Mercury Comet.

IIRC, Sherwood was THE first company to offer bridgable amps. Or at least that's what the shop where I bought mine said, and they were a Alpine, Rockford Fosgate, and Coustic dealer (if anyone remembers that brand). Although they also carried Craig amplifiers. Those were about as cheap as Rockwood and Kenford.

That Sherwood amp was the ****!!! I had the 4 channel with 2 channels running some Jensen 6x9's and the other 2 bridged into one 8" Ultimate sub ALL MOUNTED IN THE BACK DASH!!!!!!! :sillylol:

Man... those were the days. Me and my boys would ride around jamming out to Too Short, Digital Underground, and Eazy E!!!!! LOL OH YEA!!!!! And can't forget SuperSonic by J.J.Fad!!!!! We had chics all OVER that ugly *** car!!!

I gotta stop now..... or I won't stop reminiscing.

AJ

89blackGTA

Coustic is the 10 that I am running. I bought it in High School, 1995. Hits pretty hard.

Brian

CreatiVe2

yo 330hp_91RS.. .thansk a bunch for the support.... the vegas did get that over a bridged 400 X2 @ 2 ohms and withthe same power the JLs hit much harder.... its not only the power going to the speaker that matters... its the actual quality and build of the speaker that makes the sound what it is..... rockford amps are famout for their whine... and i think thats the only thig that differs from my amps than rockfords at this level.....

9177

I disagree. I think it is more reliant on the install than the components used. While having good equipment is good I think its more important to know what to do with them and what they need. Like often said "it all in the install"

Also power needed for a speaker is also very dependant of the application. The amount of wattage a speaker can hold is a thermal rating. In some application (such as porting a speaker) you may not need the total RMS power rating to achieve full xmax or sound good.

CreatiVe2

thats true..... i mean its also a given... if you are going to install a higher quality speakers you better pay attention what to do to make them work to their full potential....

9177

My only point was for poeple just starting out. Just because you have expensive very nice equipment doesn't mean it will automatically sound good.

330hp_91RS

I want to clear something up really quick.

Earlier someone said to push subs at peak. I agree, but not at full peak. You should try to get an amp that will push more than a sub's RMS capability. Remember, those ratings are nominal and are for warranty purposes most of the time. A speaker with 125 watts RMS specs being pushed by a 200 watt RMS sounds awesome. Know why, cause the amp has no prob pushing the speaker to it's limits, it has power to spare. This is really good. You will have absolutely no distortion, most speaker " Bogging" comes from amplifier clipping and such, not cause the speaker can't take anymore. If you have 350 watts going to that same 125 watt sub, expect it to bog. That's just too much power.

Make sense??? Remember this guys. Spend the extra cash in the beginning if possible, and just turn the gain down, you'll thank yourself for it later!

CreatiVe2

thats what i did to my JLs.... and got rid of Vegas... my vegas were MAX power rating at 400 watts.. i was pushing 400 watts to each.... didntn sound THAT good... now My JLs.... are rated at 300 watts RMS... same 400 watts goign to it and they sound beautiful let alone they are JLs but they still improved much on the distortion level..