NEEDAZ

FYI: Lightning audio is made by Rockford. They are the same as Rockford on the inside. Just cheaper, that's it.

ScrapMaker

that's pretty funny... I wouldn't buy either brand

does lightning audio make anything worth putting in a car? cap, amps, or speakers?

85_ZED28

isnt a 1 farad capacitor a 1 farad capacitor? I mean how can one brand be better than another?

ScrapMaker

well I'm no expert, but couldn't even if both capacitors hold the same amount of energy, one could be more efficient at charging itself up, and others may maintain charges better... I think that's sorta related to ESR... maybe not. plus some can possibly be drained faster than others... those are the only 3 factors I can think of, other than longevity of the capacitor itself.

snflupigus

1 12volt battery is the same as another 12v battery.....

doesnt quite fit does it? --- same with caps

NEEDAZ

The only thing that is different is the labeling, I've talked with the RF engineers about this. They are the same except for labeling....

ScrapMaker

so might as well go get the 2 farad caps from walmart, right

85_ZED28

i don't think capacitors of the same value have varying efficiencies. Capitors fully charge after 5 time constants, which is determined by the resistance of the circuit and the capacitance.

ScrapMaker

I mean, two 1.0 farad capacitors can have different efficiencies..

tilstad

Where do you guys buy matching carpet to use on the sub boxes? I have the standard light gray, havent seen that anywhere.

ScrapMaker

audio shops have it all the time... but check some of the sponsor links at the top, since they would most likely have carpet that will match our cars.

snflupigus

http://www.audiooutfitter.com/store/...ml?id=irfxebWq

we used to sell these at my families shop

True, as with many components, some are the same with different labeling... but also true, levels of design and craftmanship and quality of parts on ANY electronic device is going to make them different. They are not all the same.

ScrapMaker

is a 15,000watt system even feasable?

15,000watts/12volts = 1250amps... hrm

that's the only time you'd need a 15 farad capacitor

you'd only need 15 batteries, 15 alternators, and 1/0 wiring all around

I think those big caps are a gimmick, because you can get some 15 farad caps for the price of a 2 farad... some..how...

snflupigus

It's just over-built... they dont even make them anymore. Not a gimmick. It's just goverment technology passed down

History of the company...

http://www.alumapro.com/rvn4.html

NEEDAZ

Those square or other odd shaped caps typically have horrible ESR ratings and degrade rapidly. I didn’t see an ESR value list (no shock) and in two years it will be higher then whatever it is.
And with the Rockford/Lightning being the same. Take one of each for the same year and similar specs apart and look. Same thing. As in no different.
I will eat crow in that this was the case 4 years ago and according to the engineer at RF they still are.

ScrapMaker

RF engineer is the Rockford Fosgate engineer?

and yeah, I don't see the benefit of at 15 farad cap if its going to lower your output voltage.

NEEDAZ

It will not lower the out put voltage. In the other post the voltage drop I was referring to is internal to the cap.

And yes, RF=Rockford

ScrapMaker

okay so if the voltage drop is on the inside of the capacitor, what difference can you see on the output of the capacitor? The output difference of a crappy esr, and a good esr?

does the esr basically deal with "current over time"? So the better the esr is, the more current can flow out faster? because the resistance is lower internally?

DustyJL

FyreLance

^ That's pretty nice!

JamesY

I think he likes JL's stuff

NEEDAZ

Good color match on the JL. I'd like to see the wires hidden. But other then that vary nice. Adds some splash with out being over the top.
We're way off topic with all this ERS stuff, but it's started so...
It effects how long it take the cap to change and how fast it discharges. If you run the math for time constants and keep in mind that the cap is only need at base "hits" which are fast you'll see how bad it can get. Also remember that an amp (or amps) that pull 80A (not uncommon) are a load of 0.15 ohm. That makes an ESR of 0.015 ohm a big concern. There's also ESL, not really a concern here, just mixing it up.

BlackMagic

This is my newly built sub box. All the components in the box will get replaced with Kenwood, since i have always had no problems with them. Please let me know what yall think...thanks...

Oh and once the box is completed, it will be carpeted to match the interior, and diamond plate under the amp.

NEEDAZ

I seen that in another post. I really like that. Just something as simple as some angles really sets the box off. Though I'm not a fan of mounting the amp to the box, for reliability of the amp. You may consider using some foam under the new amp.

ScrapMaker

if the box is well constructed, it shouldn't vibrate much, right? That's the whole point of making a nice, thick box. The speakers and your brains are the only things that are supposed to be rattling.

I've seen some boxes with plexiglass windows and they vibrate too much, which can cause the amp to fail...

NEEDAZ

The box may not flex, but it still vibrates. That's the problem.

ScrapMaker

either way you're right about mounting it right on the box... even though I've seen this done many times, I wouldn't personally do this, that is, unless absolutely necessary.

snflupigus

everything vibrates... a well built box just doesnt resonate.

BlackMagic

trust me i have thought about everything that yall have brought up, but it is built like this for a purpose. When i was designing the box, i wanted something that i could take out easily for the special track days. With the way that i built the box with the well it currently slides out easily, and disconnects quickly, and even goes back in easier. So thats why the amp is connected.

Saigon_Bob

iTrader: (2)

im glassing mine but im making sure i can take it out if i need to.....and if im gunna race im just gunna make sure i have the HP and TQ to overcome any extra weight.

i have a daily driver, almost never racer so comfort is first

BlackMagic

my car is a major project, and i curently have a 350 that i am working on to drop in for the track...so i am going show and go!

ScrapMaker

if you really get into the whole track thing you'll be pulling that out every time... a bigger motor won't help completely, because you will want to see how fast you REALLY are without that extra 150 pounds in the back...

then you'll go and rip out all the seats...

buy all-aluminum parts

well maybe not, but there's a good reason why the majority of the racers really aren't into stereo equipment

BlackMagic

thats exactly why i made it the way i did...it slides out really easy. I am not going to rip out all the seats or anything, but i am going to be trying to get as light as i can and still have a "functional" car. since i am still 16, i have to haul my little borther and all his friends around, not to mention the ladies..

ScrapMaker

hey, your mom doesn't count!

BlackMagic

ah come on....na but the main thing is my parents are out of town 75% of the time, and my GF and I have to haul my little bro everywher.

snflupigus

sounds like a practice wife and kid... LOL

I seriously dont think the amp is bothered by the vibration.

NEEDAZ

I can say with the utmost confidence that easily 80% of the bad connection in the amps I see, the amp is mounted to the box. I know, I have to call and talk to the consumers about this stuff. The numbers are vary persuasive. But what you have to keep in mind with ANY of my posts is that I fix that stuff every day. I see the broken crap 8 hours day, 5 days a week. I see 101 ways for this stuff to go bad. That tends to skew my point of view. I look at things/installs with "reliability blinders" on.
Any time you can isolate vibrations from electronic equipment, it's a good thing. This doesn't mean you'll have problems, but IF you have these problems, you'll know why.

ScrapMaker

do you think that mounting it on some carpet, or soft rubber would help out, or just keep it completely away from the box?

the whole car vibrates like crazy anyways...

NEEDAZ

I've used that thick tool box liner on boxes for people that 'need' the amp on the box. The other problem is that if you can get it out easily, so can someone... other then you. Don't get me wrong, I like the box and if you want the amp on the box go for it. And I'm not knocking it. Chances are you wouldn't have a problem, but if you do... You're taking to a man that uses "light bulb" grease on all his crimps just to stave of any possibility oxidation or corrosion. That's when i use crimps. Any time I can it's a proper western union splice, solder, silicone, heat shrink. You should see anything that goes under the hood.

Saigon_Bob

iTrader: (2)

my amp has lil rubber grommets taht isolate it from the box.. plus 200 watts RMS to these subs doesnt pund that hard..

Saigon_Bob

iTrader: (2)

my amp has lil rubber grommets taht isolate it from the box.. plus the way i have it wired only puts 200 watts RMS each to these subs so theydont pound that hard..

ScrapMaker

your double post pounds harder than 200 watts

black88cam

pics of some custom mods

black88cam

another

Saigon_Bob

iTrader: (2)

dunny what happened.... my typing sucks though

JDubya18

How does that setup sounds? I got the same thing as far as sub and amp but I havent installed it yet.

MurcoRS

My little system-
Alpine 7995 pre-amp head unit

Alpine MFR-450 amp with Kicker CVR 8" subs

Front Infinity 50.5 components in kick panels (these are the old ones)

Rear Infinity 60.5 components in the sails (only the mids show)

ryanL04

heres my stereo as im sure some have already seen.

go here to check it out. its on page 3.

http://members.cardomain.com/esvaudio

DJsyclone

Here's my setup.

nick418

heres mine