89GTAguy

Hi, this is my first post on here and its not a third gen specific question. I'm about to do an audio overhaul on my gta and I have an idea of what I want but I am looking for experienced kicker people lol.

Here's what I'm looking at:
Kicker 40CS6934 or CS694
Kicker DS46 or CS464

I already have a sub planned out I just want a couple opinions on whats better. Also what amp did you find went best with what. Thanks everyone

padak

iTrader: (10)

Both 6X9's have the same specs, and around the same price online between besty buy, amazon, crutchfield, etc $99-$109 ish range.

Same thing for the 4x6's, they have the same specs watts wise (RMS & Peak). and are had for around the same price $39-$49 at same retailers as above.

Honestly I would choose either, they both are OK speakers at the price.

89GTAguy

Thanks padak, are there any kicker speakers that are noticeably better in quality in my size that you know of?

mikeyt

Just wondering why Kicker only. For the money there are other brands that I believe would out perform and sound better. I just bought JBL p963's and P6462's for about the same money and they sound amazing. The 4x6 plate actually has great full range sound and the "driver" actually reproduces some decent mid and low tones. Both sets has a 3db cut out so you're able to shape your sound to your like a little more then speakers without that feature. Also the tweeters do not have a "tinny" or metallic sound, just a good high that is good for edm, rock, metal. It's nice to be able to clearly hear the crash of a cymbal, the sounding of a trumpet , or the electronic synth tones without the tweeter breaking up. These speakers are 50w rms and 2ohm so you will have to get an amp that's 2ohm stable or wire it that way.

89GTAguy

I have just always wanted kicker, I have never owned but a couple buddy's of mine have kicker and it sounds good.

I do like how the jbls are 2 ohms, what amp are you using with them?

mikeyt

I've just installed them on the factory head unit and like I said...what a difference already. They are fine off the stock head unit due to the gage size wire the factory uses. I bought those speakers along with the new Sony MEX-GS810BH head unit for Christmas, it has 5v preamp outs which is very important, the better/more voltage signal you can get to your amps the better. I went with a 5 channel amp since space is limited and I'm going to hide it-never mount it to your box. I'm using the Soundstream TN5.950D, which is 2ohm stable and puts out 65 watts rms for the interior speakers and 430rms to the sub. Once you get the math right and figure out the proper voltage on the amp I'll dial down the settings to make them around 40 watts rms to give myself a cushion, the sub channel will go to the max extent. I'm going with an Alpine Type R-SWR-10D4 wired to 2 ohms, since it has an rms capacity of 300-1000rms. Also I'm using the NVX oxygen free copper (OFC) wiring kit, which is very important, OFC wiring that is, because of it's true gage size and non corrosive nature. Plus the big 3 upgrade. I'm going to wait till the weather gets a little warmer to do the rest of the install all at once.

89GTAguy

Very nice setup thanks for all the info I think I'll just get a capacitor instead of all three

PAFORM350

wow. this brought up a blast from the past. Way back in 1989 I owned a 1987 Formula, 305 carbureted. Had an Alpine Benzi unit in it with a Kenwood 921 Amp driving a Kicker Sub box specifically made for the third gen f body, It also had a Alpine equalizer and a Kenwood 821 amp driving Stillwater 8 inch subs and some mid ranges, That thing thumped. May not apply to what your asking but I'm a firm believer in matching components

89GTAguy

I'm the same way all my speakers and amps need too match accept for the sub I really should look into alpine as that's the head unit I have

mikeyt

Very nice setup thanks for all the info I think I'll just get a capacitor instead of all three....Not sure what you mean by that. If your referring to the big three upgrade, that is additional wiring, usually 4gage or bigger-very simple, that you do when your adding power like that. You ground your battery to the chassis/engine block, ground your alternator to the chassis/engine block, and run another positive from the battery to the alternator. This ensures you have no grounding issues through the system, and plenty of "positive" signal exchange from the battery to the alternator-no whining issues. As far as a capacitor goes that's a whole nother ball game. Depending on what your running you have to select the right one. Not enough is too bad and too much isn't any better. Please do not believe that a capacitor is likened to another battery. It will help when you have a heavy discharge i.e. bass hitting, however they do not recharge as quick as they discharge. This assists the alternator in recharging the battery since it takes some of the load of the drain caused by heavy bass sessions. Start out with the most cold cranking amp deep cycle battery you can get. That's another reason why you do the big three upgrade. The increased gage size will help that also.

89GTAguy

I was told the big three includes buying a new stronger battery, a New stronger alternator, and what you explained as being the last one. I'm just figuring I won't need all that anyways if I'm under 1000 watts I just want to make sure there is no dimming, do they make any capacitors under 1 fared?

mikeyt

You don't need to buy all those things. Just make sure you have a good battery. I recommend using the NVX XCAP1F from www.sonicelectronics.com, it's $69.99 or the Rockford Fosgate RFC1 $74.99. They are 1 Farad capacitors that are good for up to 1200 watts of power. You can go on youtube and there are videos to explain how they work and what they really do.

89GTAguy

Ok thanks ill definetly check those out

mikeyt

Did you check those out yet?

89GTAguy

Yes I have and I think I'll go with the nvx one thanks for pointing these out

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

i wouldnt spend that much on a cap at this level. much better value in having the proper power and ground wire. more is better. i am running about the same 1200w between two amps. no cap, just good, big wire to the back. and i upgraded the starting battery to a 800/1000cca interstate mt2. i dont have hardly any dimming

89GTAguy

Do dimming at all? I had maybe a 1500w system in my firebird before I got my trans am and everything dimmed when the bass hit even after I got a deep cycle battery and the wires were 4 gauge. Obviously I'll wait to see if I need one that will be the last thing i get, I just like to plan out everything

mikeyt

A larger gage wire will help for signal and power transfer, however unless you are severely choking a high power amp will a truly undersized wire the current draw will be from the alternator/battery, hence having the capacitor as a buffer or add another battery. That NVX is hefty for sure-good choice.

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

i am not going to get into the debate but there are alot of people who think there is no reason for caps at all. the pros have batteries at the amp area. i ran 2 gauge to the sub amp and 8 from there to the inside speaker amp.i also ran equal size grounds. and there is no dimming till you get it much louder than i normally listen, hurts my head, so basically only when i am outside the car showing off.

89GTAguy

You didn't run separate power cords did you?

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

one number 2 from the front to the back

jwfirebird

iTrader: (2)

on a thirdgen, if you have the stock alt 85a amp alt or even the 105 with some age, its going to dim no matter what you do. the batteries, caps, wires, dont make power the alt does. and at idle the alt makes normally 60-70 percent of the rated capacity to recharge the battery and run everything in the car, let alone run two amps that likely take that much on there own.

307Camaro

I would never install a cap. Its like putting a bandaid on a bullet hole. You have deficiency and all you're doing is masking it. A new alternator and a big 3 upgrade kit and you'll never have issues.