WaaX

I have recently aquired an old non computer controlled quadrajet from my moms boyfriend. He picked it up in georgia in the early 90's. From what my moms boyfriend told me, the guy he bought the carb from did all sorts of tricks and stuff to it. The carb was used in races that you had to have a stock engine parts in order to race. Its choke is not electrical, it has a vacuum hose. My question is..

I know this carb is better than my current one (which is also non-cc). What would I need to do to get this thing in working order. Moms boyfriend says it needs to be rebuilt but I do not know exactly what that entails. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks =]

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Grab the # off the side, it'll be like 17084xxxx.... But if you say it has a hot air choke, might be closer to 70xxxxxx.... Then call up Napa, and tell 'em you want a rebuild kit for a q-jet, part # is bla bla bla. Then go pick it up, ~$35.
Make sure you have a torx T8, T20, T25, unless it's the flat blade style setup.
Everything else you need should be in the rebuild kit. I always got mine from a different store, Niehoff brand, but they're probably all the same.

Get some carb cleaner, a dip style. Berrymans is supposed to be the best, I used "dunk" or something, a store brand - did not work well at all.

Then you can find out what indeed was modified, in order to make it a racing carb, and perhaps undo it

Not sure how the hot air choke works, but not having an electric choke might make things weird for your car, electrically. I honestly don't think you'll get any better performance out of it then what you currently have, but only one way to know for sure...

WaaX

I have the carb in my car, next time im leaving my car ill grab it and get the numbers, which will be tonight.

WaaX

only numbers I see on it are:

17059222 1969 cbs

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

that'll be it. 17059222.
If you're lucky, someone on here can decode that for ya. Won't do you much good now though, since it's probably not stock.
Tear into it and go to town I guess.

Just keep in mind the choke issue, not sure how you want to solve that.

WaaX

I let my friend have the old computer controlled qjet that came off the engine I have in my car currently. He didnt have a use for it so I got it back from him today. It has an electrical choke, ill probably take it off and put it on the "performance" qjet.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Carburetors

Ain't Google a wonderful thing???

The choke is an easy fix. Put an electric thermostat in the housing.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

really? Fits right in and everything? I'll be damned... ok, easy fix indeed.

JohnTN

Buy Cliff Ruggles QJet rebuild book, it will be a big help. About $26 at Barnes and Noble or $17 plus shipping at Amazon.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Yep, done it.

That carb number also popped up on a couple of Vette forums in the Google. So, it may have been used on 350's as well.

[R]ogue

aint much you can do to a qjet other than swap out metering rods and drill out a few metered passages to make it a "racing" - not trying to talk down about what you got just thats all there is to hot rodding a qjet - seen it done once

WaaX

Aye, thanks for the help guys..

Yeah, I didnt know what could be done to a Qjet, all I know is what my moms boyfriend told me.

As of right now, it has no secondary metering rods, just has the hanger. Hanger code is N. Any recomendations on secondary metering rods for my engine combo? *see sig at top post*

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

You'll want an assortment of hangers. Try each one, and figure out which one gets you the fastest. N is kinda late, Try a B or F or something. Thats a last minute tuning thing though, you've got lots of other parts to nail down first. Also, some secondary rods... DR's are pretty popular.

WaaX

=] Thanks

Friday I might have enough money to buy this rebuild kit.

Am I going to be going over my head in doing this? I only understand the basic principles of a carbureator. Ive never cracked one open.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Follow the directions to the letter.

If it seems like there's still a screw holding something together, there probably is.

Use a proper carb cleaner and blow out all passages after soaking.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

YES! There are 9 screws holding the top air horn down (I think). It should be EASY to remove. If not, you're bending something, stop!

Remember, 2 are in the primary bores.

you also have to remove the throttle arm (which actuates the pump shot), the choke flap actuator, and I think that's it.
But yea, do able. Lay everything out in the order you removed it. After a few rebuilds you realize you can't put anything in wrong, since all parts will only fit in one way (the right way)... unless you're really creative.

[R]ogue

i use a ladyfinger prybar that is tapered on one end, i secure that in my bench vise, i then pick a bolt hole and slide the carb mounting flange over the prybar - presto - one custom carb holding jig. now its also at eye level

on reassembly put the accelerator pump down in its hole and then using a center punch ( an automatic punch works good ) dimple the bore, this will hold the pump down while you reinstall the top of the carb

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Make sure that you stake to top of the Power Piston assembly into place.