86projectZ

Ive been workin on my 86 sport coupe. 305 V8, put a newly rebuilt Rochester factory q-jet on about a month ago. Its been doin fine, but recently theres been a new problem. The electric choke won't kick down. See, the choke light usually flashes on, then off when u start it. Now, the light stays on(except when I pull the power wire to the choke) and the usual small rev on the accelerator that gets it to kick down... won't do it. The choke stays open at about 2500-3000rpm. Im not sure what the problem is, the carburetor was bought rebuilt, and has been doin fine for about a month before this. Any help please???????

Apeiron

It turns on when you turn the key on, and stays on after you start the engine?

86projectZ

The choke light? Yea it stays on after starting it and doesn't turn off. Tapping the throttle doesn't drop it like its supposed to

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You probably aren't getting power to the choke thermostat.

Start by checking the choke heater fuse (#2 in the fuse block - 20 amp - if your Canadian car is like my U.S. CC car).

Apeiron

I'd lean towards an alternator problem. A blown C/H fuse would have the light off before starting, and probably a buzzing C/H relay after.

86projectZ

Would that cause the choke to stay open and not kick down? The light does stay on, but even when I disconnect the electric choke power wire... the light goes off but the choke is still stuck open.

Apeiron

Yes, with the alternator not charging, the choke relay will stay open and the choke coil will only receive power through the choke light causing it to open slowly, if at all.

86projectZ

Well I do know the lights sometimes have a slight pulsing to them at idle... even tho I had the car looked at before buyin it a few months ago and it checked out fine.... hmmm. The choke stays high revvin. I know its supposed to for a few minutes till you tap the gas its supposed to drop(with cold engine...). It won't drop. Oh, and this problem didn't occur with the old carb at all.... and it just started about a week ago- I got the carb about a month ago. Any help? How would an alternator just go out-is it common?

86projectZ

Id there anything little or stupid that could cause this?A fuse maybe?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Well, maybe. . .

But, Aperion said the symptoms would be different if that was the case.

Put a volt meter on the battery while the engine is running. That will tell you what your alternator is doing.

86projectZ

Ok here's what I've got. I was told to try making sure both throttle and choke linkage were properly lubricated. Well, with a lil WD40, and a lil tinkering, I got the car to open the choke so the idle would drop to normal from 2500 or so rpms. Then after a couple small revs, the light disappeared. Thought I fixed it till I was drivin hope and the choke light came on again. IT runs and drives fine, but whats with the light comin back on???? What can I do to fix that???? Im almost there guys... any advice?

Apeiron

The choke light doesn't know anything about the actual operation of the choke or the linkages. I think you've still got an alternator problem.

86projectZ

What kind of problem? U think the connection is bad or the alternator is going? The car starts fine every time... actually I do notice that sometimes the lights flare a little when parked, and the blinker goes a little slow when not applying throttle.... you think thats it? One more thing, would the alternator cause the choke light to stay on? Ive noticed it flickers with the fan off, but steady with the cooling fan on. Alternator?

86projectZ

I posted earlier about my electric choke problem and figured somethin out. The butterfly for the choke is supposed to be opened at operating temperature. Well thats not happening here. its hardly open. Choke light on too. Theres a lever/switch with an E on it on the inner side of the electric choke assembly. When I tap that dowm it opens and is fine but light stays on. the second I hit throttle it jumps to 2500 again. What the hell this is pissin me off Im thinkin of switching to manual choke and runnin a cable to bypass the problem

scooter500

iTrader: (1)

if your engine is cold the factory setting on the carb fast idle can kick up pretty high. factory setting for fast idle on your carb is about 2300 rpm. do your engine rpms eventually calm down once warmed up?

scooter500

iTrader: (1)

could be an alternator or could be somthing like a loose battery cable connection - might try stopping by a parts store that does free alternator & battery checking. Which part stores do that in Vancouver?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

There is no need to start another thread. You haven't done what we told you to do.

In case you haven't gotten the message yet, let me repeat it one more time:

GET A VOLTMETER AND CHECK THE VOLTAGE AT THE BATTERY WITH THE CAR NOT RUNNING AND RUNNING, AND DO THE SAME AT THE CHOKE THERMOSTAT! If it isn't above 14 volts when running, BINGO!

Did you get it this time? Do those things. Until you do, there isn't anything that is going to help you. You aren't getting voltage to the choke thermostat, and it's probably because your alternator isn't putting out enough voltage to kick in the choke heater relay. It may be that the choke thermostat fuse is blown, but Aperion already said why that probably isn't the case.

86projectZ

Actually Schucks auto supply down the street offers free battery and alternator testing. If I can get the car runnin ok long enough to get down there Ill find out about the charging system

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

A little off topic- but, What'd you pay for the carb? I am going to have to buy one soon.. Thanks!!

86projectZ

Well, the remanufactured Quardrjet Rochester (E4ME I believe) carbs aren't cheap. Mine ran next to $400. If you can aviod getting one, Id do so but if your carb is already computer controlled then you have no choice. They aren't pretty those Rochesters, but the do the job just fine
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I guess you actually could work your way around the computer stuff if ya wanted an edelbrock or somethin, but its not worth the hassle. stick with what ya have

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

Well, I havent ruled out all possibilities, but my car wont idle, and when it DOES idle, it idles at around 5500 RPMs and then dies. I still need to look at it a bit more. thanks for the info but, i only payed 600 for the car, 400 for a carb is a bit out of my price range as of yet.

scooter500

iTrader: (1)

your car idles at 5500 rpms??? wow, I've never had mine up to 5500 rpms. so how is that working? you turn the key, the car starts, and the car goes into a roar and then quits!?! what have you tried so far?

84HyperZ

Talk about de-ja-vue. Replace quadrajet w/ a reman and started having problems w/ the choke. Choke wasnt closed but the light and buzzer would stay on none the less. Finally just disconnected the choke. With the exception that on occasion at high rpm, 3.5k or so, the c/h light would come on ever so dimly. lol. Just recently replaced the alternator because my amperage would fluctuate between about 13 and 9ish. Gotta love warranties. Havent had any problems that i have noticed as of yet. After reading through this thread i may reconnect my choke and see what happens. Oh and a final thought, i was reading somewhere, think it may have been in some other thread on here about a choke realy under the dash that could cause a similar problem. What are your thoughts on this? Possibility?

naf

iTrader: (7)

http://92b4crs.tripod.com/86wiring/dia-pics/32-0.jpg

Choke receives power from the alternator only when the alternator is running AND providing enough output. Power to the choke goes through a choke relay.

Hook your choke back up and I bet you'll be fine.

84HyperZ

just hooked the choke back up and the light and buzzer came on and stayed on even with the car running. didnt even see the choke flap move.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Buzzer is probably the relay under the dash. Should be easy to find with it hollering at you.

Assuming, of course, that the alt is good, you just replaced it right?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Check the choke heater fuse. If it's blown, what you're describing will happen.

84HyperZ

yea the alternator is brand new. I feel like a dunce! Choke heater fuse was all it was. Seems like its the small things you overlook the most.

zuhi

iTrader: (1)

Hi!
Just a question.
If i have an Edelbrock 1406 with electric choke this factory wiring is ok for its normal operation? Because their manual wants me to hook up a (Run position) always on 12v to it.
As i understand factory wiring is not always active and controlled by the relay depending on alternators work. (It means to me if the alternator falls below 12V the choke relay will won't open, and choke light will grounded, to indicate the problem, but when its working and charging ok, choke relay energized, opens and let the electricity flow trough to the choke. So if i have the factory choke wiring intact what is the basic difference and pros and cons between the factory and what it the Edelbrock manual said (relay less method) and which is recommended?