Darth Mole

Hello everybody!

I've been a huge fan of the ThirdGens since I was a child, and I've owned several cars (around 13) here in Germany during the past 12 years.

At the moment, I am doing a frame off restauration of my 1982 Pontiac Trans Am. Especially in Germany, where neither parts or know how is really much widespread, this is not an easy task. I will attach a picture of the car in the actual state, maybe I should start a restoration thread, too...

I need your help and your opinions with my engine overhaul. The original engine (305 cid LG4 4bbl) was removed from the car and replaced with a 305 cid LG4 produced in 1987 (roller engine, solid main seal, center bolt valve covers, casting number 14093627).

The block is being overhauled by my engine shop and bored and honed to 0.030" oversize. The heads (#14101081) are being planed and getting new valve guides. The crankshaft is going to be polished to 0.010" undersize.

I need new bearings, pistons/rings, valves and also want to add a new roller camshaft with new roller rocker arms and hardware.

My goal is to get a nice drivable car with some improved performance. The car will not be my daily driver, but my intend is do get a little bit more power out of it. Fuel consumption is not my biggest concern, but drivability is.

I need your help and advise in getting the right parts for this project. At the moment, I am intend to get the following parts as a foundation:

* Rebuild kit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fem-csmhp749-311
* Intake Valves: http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...06-8/overview/
* Exhaust Valves: http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...08-8/overview/

The car is equipped with an GM TH200C 3-speed automatic transmission, which I want to keep, if possible. I also want to keep the stock computer controller carburator (Rochester Quadrajet E4ME) in combination with the 1987 LG4 stock intake manifold made of Aluminum.

Another few words about the car: I upgraded the suspension to WS6 specifications (34 mm front stabilizer diameter, 24 mm rear stabilizer diameter), a 4HY posi rear with wheel disc brakes and 3.23 gears, a Catco High-Flow Converter (http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cto-9118) with a Hooker Super Competition Cat-Back Exhaust System (http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hok-16823hkr) and stock TPI (LB9) exhaust manifolds and an electric fan setup.

I talked to Summit Racing and they recommend me the following parts in addition to the ones above:

* Camshaft: http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...4201/overview/
* Valve Springs: http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...08-1/overview/
* Rocker Arms: http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...1-16/overview/

I plan to add headers to get more performance out of the Hooker Cat-Back System in the future. At the moment, I want to go with the stock TPI exhaust manifolds which will be a nice improvement comparent to the 1982 stock ones.

Would be very nice to hear some opinions about this setup. I highly appreciate your help! Please note that a 350 swap is not an option - I want to keep the original engine displacement, a swap is not that easy here in Germany.

Thanks a lot and best regards from Germany,

Marcel

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

That cam is puny,weak, and you would be disappointed with it. I would go with something like a Crane 104224 or stock LT1 cam or something in its class which would work fine and really wake up your Lg4.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Some money could be saved.

The rocker arms are oem replacements. You could reuse your existing ones.

The cam is pretty expensive and mild. You may want to compare it to a stock LT1 or TPI cam, for less $.

With a mild cam you won't lose much power with the TPI exhaust.

Otherwise you'll want to be aware of your compression ratio, cam and the quality of fuel available if using the 82 ccc - qjet and ecm because it doesn't use the knock sensor installed on later, higher compression lg4s.

Darth Mole

Thanks a lot!

I knew, ThirdGen.org is the place to be!

I didn't know that a LT1 cam will work - this sounds like a great deal. I knew the rocker arms are oem replacements, but because I will get new valves, I thought I have to renew the rockers, too. I am wrong?

I've got all the ccc parts from the 1987 car (ECM, Quadrajet), so this setup will use the knock sensor, as far as I see... Here in Germany, we have at least 95 octane gas, so fuel quality should not be a problem.

naf

iTrader: (7)

LT1 or TPI cams MAY not work. I forgot about the fuel pump lobe you'll require. There are other alternatives though. Before going further with your cam choice, have your builder determine your actual compression ratio.

Darth Mole

In general, I am also willing to convert to an electrical fuel pump - the tank is out of the car, so this would not be my biggest concern... but I prefer to keep the mechanical pump.

I will talk to the engine builder next week. To get the things rollin', I want to order the rebuild kit and valves - this allows the engine builder to start with the overhaul. This Federal Mogul kit seems to be a good deal.

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

Many roller cams have the lobe for mechanical fuel pump so that should not be a problem. I would not put those exhaust manifolds on though. A good set of headers will make a world of difference I cannot stress that enough. Good luck with your build. I built an LG4 years ago with a mild Summit hydraulic flat tappet 1103 I think, better intake and holley carb, and it woke up the lil engine a lot.

Darth Mole

I definitely think this engine is worth some money and work!

The 1987 setup I use for this build is already a huge difference compared to the original 1982 setup (camshaft, pistons, intake, valves diameters).

I just made a quick calculation based on the facts I know now: I estimate a compression ratio of 9.5:1 - 9.6:1.

I found this camshaft (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-08-501-8) in the ThirdGen.og archives, which also looks good to me. I prefer to get the power at low rpms instead of high rpms (range of 1,200-5,200 rpms instead of 2.000-5.500 with http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crn-104224).

Best regards,

Marcel

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

With those stock heads I wouldn't go over 465-470 lift on my cam unless you upgrade to maybe a set of beehive springs or something to handle the lift. I think the 104224 (crane 2032 cam) would be a good choice with stock heads.

Darth Mole

I am willing to upgrade to any springs if these parts can be fitted without any further machine work on the heads...

Darth Mole

Just got a call from the engine shop: The camshaft is within tolerances and could be reused... but I don't think that I will reuse the stock cam...

By the way: Is it absolutely necessary to renew the rocker arms after renewing the valves? If yes, what's about the pushrods?

Best regards,

Marcel

E.Roy

Something like this cam is more worth your investment, it is also $215 USD less
The lift may be a bit high, but the rpm range is good for your intentions
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...make/chevrolet

Darth Mole

Thanks a lot! Any tips how much lift is possible with stock heads? Would a .450/.480 lift give me clearance problems? I will renew the valve springs, of course.

It would also be a great opportunity to upgrade to roller tip rockers, too. I checked the stock rockers yesterday, and they show some wear, so I will replace them anyway and keep the stock ratio.

Darth Mole

Hello guys,

I found my "setup".

I would highly appreciate if you could take a look if I missed or overlooked something:

* Engine Rebuild Kit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fem-csmhp749-311
* Oil Pump Driveshaft: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-is-55e
* Camshaft: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-08-300-8
* Roller Tip Rocker Arms: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1417-16 (recommended by COMP camps for this cam)
* Valve Springs: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-983-16 (recommended by COMP camps for this cam)
* Pushrods: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-7808-16 (recommended by COMP camps for this cam)
* Intake Valves: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/man-11506-8
* Exhaust Valves: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-6016-8
* Valve Locks: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-613-16
* Valve Spring Retainers: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-751-16
* Valve Seals: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-501-16

I will reuse the factory hydraulic roller lifters. I did some research and the lift should be safe with stock heads and the selected springs.

As mentioned before, my goal is keeping low to mid range torque - I don't want to put high rpms on that engine. I think this setup will suit these goal very well...

Thanks a lot for all your help and efforts!

Best regards,

Marcel

E.Roy

Marcel,


Your selection looks good to me. Are the new valves really needed? You might spend that money on having screw in rocker studs and guide plates installed, which is better than having the head casting guide the pushrods.
Note, you will have to install the new oil pump drive shaft before the oil pump

Darth Mole

Yes, my engine builder told me that new valves are really needed. But after replacing almost every internal parts, this is not a big deal anymore...

Will the head casting guides cause me any problems in combination with the selected rocker arms or springs?

Best regards,

Marcel

E.Roy

Ok good. I did not see a new adjustable double roller timing chain in your parts list. I recommend a chain with at least +4 degrees advance. You should advance your cam at least 4 degrees to strengthen and increase the area under the power curve in the lower rpm range. I know that the Comp Cam probably comes "advanced" 4 degrees to make up for the fact the stock cams were retarded 4 degrees for emission reasons. Read the information from Raceman14 in his 2 posts on this forum: http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=30927
That there is an old guy dropping some wisdom and reality on those who will listen.


I think the cast in guides in the head will not cause any issues with the rockers or springs. Any issues would be due to the increased cam lift possibly causing the pushrod to contact the outside edge of the guide slot, which could slightly bind or flex the pushrod. Probably not an issue at all but maybe something to check into

Darth Mole

Thanks a lot for the link and the advise!

So, you think this is necessary? Well, I thought I don't need an additional timing chain because I've got one in my storage which I purchased a few years ago: http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/edl-7802 - after reading your thread and comparing the specs, this part will not work (factory roller engine). So, I will set this aside for a 350 engine I've got stored for a friend...

After some research, I think I will go with http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-3136/overview/. So, the only mechanical parts I am going to reuse are the crankshaft, the distributor, the hydraulic roller lifters and the factory harmonic balancer...

At the moment, I am try to figure out of the deluxe serpentine drive kit (http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...7697/overview/) is a good deal as an additional benefit on top. I need a few brackets, a new alternator and a water pump anyways...

Darth Mole

Everything is purchased. Thanks a lot for all of your help!

makaveli09

Looks like a good parts list.do you know the head gasket thickness ? Probably .039
It would be better to get the SS style .015 for a bit more compression.

Darth Mole

I didn't find out the head gasket thickness - but I already thought about that. If it's .039 I will put another order...

naf

iTrader: (7)

A thinner gasket will require more precise head and block work to ensure a good seal.

For your 305 the standard, thicker gasket will be fine.

Darth Mole

Hi naf,

thanks a lot. I will discuss that with the engine shop, the heads and the blocks gets machined which should ensure a good seal.

We'll see!

E.Roy

Cool build, keep us posted on your progress

Darth Mole

So, this really feels like Christmas in August...

Darth Mole

Here we go!

Darth Mole

Hi guys,

the heads are ready to put on the block, but now I am unsure about the head gasket thickness. At the moment, I've only got the gaskets which were included in the gasket set (probably .039 as I have seen, I did not measured it)...

Any further opinions? The heads and the block were machined precisely, so there should be no sealing issues. Would thinner gaskets bring that much improvement?

This is a thing I am unsure about. I've read the topic over and over again, but I didn't came to a decision. Facts: The camshaft IS advanced 4 degrees compared to stock. So, should I advance the cam additional 4 degrees?

Best regards and thanks a lot,

Marcel

Darth Mole

Wow. This has been a hell of a ride – I completely forgot about this thread here!

I just want to give a short update on the progress after almost seven years: The car is STILL in restoration. At the moment, the body is getting fixed, but the engine bay is ready als already put back in the engine bay, which is already painted.




To be honest: I will have to ask some further stupid questions soon. At the moment, I am put together the necessary pieces (wire harnesses, ECM, etc.) for the engine. As a reminder: This is not the 1982 block, this engine was pulled from a 1987.

Best regards

Marcel

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Year of the block will not change much other than rewiring the alternator.

mydanielcreg_3

[color=#000000]I would go with something like a Crane 104224 or stock LT1 cam or something in its class which would work fine and really wake up your Lg4.

Darth Mole

Hi @mydanielcreg_3 , thanks a lot, but I already purchased a cam (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-08-300-8) back in 2015.