1983Chimaera

I live in San Antonio, where from late July thru September we routinely see 95+ degree heat mixed with 30% or more humidity, and not the greatest traffic in the world. I have a stock 3rd gen electric cooling fan, and had upgraded to a 3 core aluminum radiator, new 180 degree thermostat, removed my A/C condenser (my car has the A/C deleted already), and I have my front license plate in my windshield to prevent any buffeting of the air entering thru my 85-90 Z/28 nose. But even still, in stop and go traffic with the fan running the temp would still creep up on a hot day. This isn't surprising as the air coming off of the asphalt on a sunny afternoon can easily reach 200+ degrees. Here's a few of the things I've done to control the issue;

1. Direct fan control. I've wired the grounded pin of my fan control relays to switches in the passenger compartment, with the fan relay trigger wires run to hot at all times sources. This way I can turn on my fans (I have 3, 1 single puller and 2 pushers) anytime I need to, leave them off on cold start ups or to allow the heater to warm up quicker, or run one only on a mild day or when cruising at high speed. The switches merely complete the ground side of the trigger for the relays. This also means I don't have to mess with a temp sensor (or deal with one going bad at the wrong time). The reason for using a hot at all times source is for a worst case scenario, where the car does start to overheat. This way I can shut the car down and park it while leaving one of the fan banks on to help cool it enough to limp it home.

2. Auxiliary fans. I found a 1993 Lexus LS400, which used dual 14" scimitar bladed pusher fans mounted to the front of its radiator, and purchased these for $40 from my local Pick N Pull junkyard. I removed the cross supports on my 3rd gen, and trimmed the plastic mounting tabs on the Lexus fans so they fit tight together. Then using radiator mounting zip ties, I mounted the fans directly against the front face of my triple core aluminum radiator, and they fit perfect. Now my main puller fan pulls thru the center of my radiator, and the dual pushers cover the majority of the sides of the radiator that the single stock fan misses. At least 80-90% of my radiator now has forced airflow across it. Again, the single and dual fans are separated into two manually controlled banks by switches in the passenger compartment, so I have direct control of which fans are on and when. When all three are on the airflow is massive. The fans will still fit in front of an A/C condenser, but you have to remove the two cross braces. Be sure to check the wiring when installing them, I incorporated the Lexus plug connectors for easy removal, and be aware the colors are reversed on each. Test to ensure proper rotation, the fans can be wired to spin either way.

3. Removal of the factory heater diverter valve. I mean really, is there any reason for using that silly thing? I ran my hoses the old fashioned way, from the water pump to the heater core, and back to the intake. I also eliminated the TPI throttle body routing.

Now my temp gauge stays right at 180, no matter how hot it gets out, or how long I sit parked in traffic.

Mad_IROC-Z

WOW, a lot of work!

With a 195 T-stat, stock dual fans, 176* fan switch, stock one (wide) row radiator, 110* weather, a/c on, sitting in the drive thru at in-n-out my temp has never gone over 220*
Oh and I have fog lights

1983Chimaera

I'm happy for you. You also (according to your signature) have a relatively stock engine, failed to mention your climate, and sitting in a drive thru is not the same as sitting on highway asphalt in heavy traffic. But I'm sorry, were you attempting to offer a solution, or just trying to flame again?

BTW, I have fog lights also if you look at the pics of my car is my profile album.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

wow i have a stock radiator with 4th gen fans. which is dual. and a flexalite controller. i dont have a/c either. and i have a tranny cooler as well. i can sit in houston traffic with it at 98* outside and i dont get over 200. i have a 180* thermo. i have the liscense plate on it to. when i get on the freeway no matter how hot it is and how much i push it it stays cool and the fans dont come on.

Mad_IROC-Z

No reason to get pissy, I was just saying....
And what is the difference with sitting on the asphalt in a drive-thru not moving with cars in front and behind you than moving in heavy traffic.
Maybe if you had a 400 I would think there is a good reason to run a little hotter.

Suggestions that are free and would help a lot are to leave a good space between you and the vehicle in front of you. I see more and more of people driving like they are in a nascar race.
Too close in slow moving traffic and you get the heat from the car ahead of you.
Too close in moving traffic and you're in a vacuum created by the car ahead of you.

BTW, I don't care nor feel the need to look at any pics in anyones profile album. Thats for stalkers
But I do gives kudos to you for not feeling the need to post a link to your how-to in old threads. Doing that is like saying

camaronewbie

License plate should make no difference. Neither should fog lights. There's no 'direst' route for airflow in the front of these cars anyway. I'd replace the front plate where it's supposed to be before some traffic cop decides to be a jerk about it - in the windshield it's not readable and you're bound to get a ticket.

youhadnochance

I just got my camaro running again and Im having the same problems.I too live in san antonio but today was in the 70s and just driving about 2 miles my temp was at 220.
my motor is a 383 with allum pro1 heads.I remover the thermostat and my fan runs all the time Its still the stock fan.I may run out to pick and pull and look for a few more fans anyone have any other suggestions or advice.

Mad_IROC-Z

Install a thermostat. Coolant constantly circulating never has a chance to stay in the radiator long enough to cool.
Dual fans would help also.

1983Chimaera

Texas statute on license plate only specifies that a front license plate must be displayed to the front of the vehicle, and says "location not specific". You can zip tie your plate to the front of a headache rack on a pickup and it's still legal. I've already checked with law enforcement on this one.

As for my cooling mods, I'm running a highly modified car built on a budget, and my mods are made for others doing the same. If your car is still stock with a factory ECM running it, then don't do my mods. If you're running an aftermarket ECM or a modded motor that doesn't fall within the capabilities of the stock cooling system to handle, then my mods may work for you. If you don't have anything constructive to add or have any cooling issues, then go to a different thread because you have no business in this one.

And Mad_IROC-Z, this is the second time you've felt the need to give sarcastic comments on my posts without being constructive towards the topic. You sure you aren't stalking?

Mad_IROC-Z

Have not spent much time in forums??? Just because you don't like another person's oppinions that don't agree with you, thats your problem. Maybe you need to seek some help. And if you can't see or take the constructive criticism again, seek some help.

And when I first posted I had no clue that you were the same one that was digging in old threads before. I'm sure I'm not stalking so don't flatter yourself.

JT

iTrader: (1)

This is the second time/thread where you two have resorted to some personal issues. Please keep it off of the forums.

Let's please go back to, and keep on, topic.

Thank-you

1983Chimaera

That's why I refuse to run aluminum heads on an iron block. Dissimilar metals don't behave well together under high heat conditions. It's too easy to overheat and warp an aluminum head, and the performance gain of a few pounds shed vs identical casting iron heads is minimal at best, especially where price is concerned. The next heads I'm going to get for my 331 will be Dart Iron Eagles for just that reason.

Look into the Lexus fans, they're relatively easy to find, unlike the dual Camaro fans, and far cheaper. They move a ton of air, and fit perfectly as either pushers or pullers. You can even wire them into the factory fan control system, or put an aftermarket fan controller on them. If you ever make it up to the Biff Buzby's car meets on Friday, look for my car and I'll show you my install.

NOTE - I said earlier the Lexus fans are scimitar bladed, I was mistaken and they are not. They do move a ridiculous amount of CFM tho

Pab's

iTrader: (2)

Im actually looking to do this soon Im also from san antonio and my car usually stays at 180* unless I romp on it then it goes up to 220* everything is stock except zz4 heads.


and Chimera the humidity in san antonio average's 45 to 60% unless its cold lol it sucks

1983Chimaera

If you come up to the Biff Buzby Friday car shows you can check out my install. It's pretty straight forward, just have to trim a couple of plastic tabs on the Lexus fans to make them fit snugly, other than that they can be wired as pushers or pullers. I even used the stock Lexus connectors so they're easily removable.

Pab's

iTrader: (2)

well im thinking of just doing this fan's just because its easier to click than go to pick and pull lol.....plus you cant beat the 4000 cfm

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16928/

1983Chimaera

$212 for that kit, plus the $12 handling fee...or an hour at Roosevelt U-Pull-It and $40, then 5 minutes with a dremel to cut off the two tabs...I like my method better

Pab's

iTrader: (2)

yes but the cfm for what your using is 2500 and those on the link push 4000

1983Chimaera

Maybe so, but along with my stock fan my temp never goes above 180, even on a hot day and heavy loads. So I still see no reason for the extra cost, but that's just me.

ikeepitreelz

I agree with PAB, going to a boneyard and hoping they have a Lexus can be tough.