Seri

iTrader: (1)

Ok I am at my wits end and asking for any info from other people who have put a big block in one of our cars. Info on the car is as follows.


91 Chev Camaro RS
402 BBC, 8-71 roots style blower, large oil pan, oil cooler, running 91 octane fuel
Monster TH-400 with cooler
4 core alumn radiator with two 3700 CFM pusher fans running just water with water wetter (already called Spahl and they confirmed that the pusher vs puller wouldn't make more than a few degrees difference and pullers won't fit as the engine is about an inch from the blower hardware)
Air dam, air baffle, and a piece that goes from the noes to the top of the radiator (not sure the official name) are installed to insure air is directed into the radiator.


The issue is going any more than about 20 miles in the car is impossible as the temp gauge starts reading a little past 220 degrees then I have to pull over and park for a few min. Once not moving the temp drops be to about 190-200. I believe it is the underhood temp that is driving the temp up while moving. Have any of you ran into this problem and how the hell do I fix it and I would prefer the idea of removing the hood not be an idea.

Seri

iTrader: (1)

Sorry forgot in the first post. Here are pics of the engine bay and front of car. The air dam, baffle, and top piece are now installed but not when I took the pics. If you need to see the current config I can repost pics. Thanks for any help.

rgauder

iTrader: (1)

Make sure you have no air pockets in the system first. An infrared thermometer (ex: http://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrica...vZboffZ1z1180y) can be useful in identifying hotspots.

Good luck, Ryan

Seri

iTrader: (1)

Already made sure there were no air pockets multiple times just to be safe.

ex-x-fire

The pusher fans are blocking air to the radiator.

Seri

iTrader: (1)

put 1800x2 CFM puller fans and she is still getting hot. Sitting still for over an hour she runs at 185. Drive it for about 10 min after it is warmed up and it gets to 220. Hood is off, trans fan and both cooling fans are on relays and are turned on as soon as the car is running. Number 2 restrictor is in the spot where the thermostat would be. Anyone have any ideas?

tealman92

Might need to find a better place for the oil and trans coolers and fan for them in front of the radiator its just adding to the heat and blocking fresh air and the car originally didnt have that much stuff in front of the radiator

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

When the car temp gauge reads 220, put an infrared temp gun on the thermostat housing and see how how it's really getting. 220 is "normal" operating temps so unless it's actually boiling over, I think you're probably fine.


What thermostat do you have?

On the highway is when the car, just cruising, should run it's coolest.

ex-x-fire

Maybe your water pump is under driven. It might flow enough to cool it at idle but not at speed.
I had a dodge truck in the shop once with the same symptoms, it was a badly eroded water pump impeller.

c-u-later

U need a high flow water pump.i used a Stewart stage 3 pump and it ran 170* all day long with a built 454

midias

Have you tried an aftermarket gauge? My factory gauge reads almost 260 when my aftermarket and dual IR temp guns read 220.

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

you need to pull the air up from underneath as those pusher fans don't allow that to happen