87350gtanj

So my coolant fans aren't working I've replaced the relay and fan switch I've also grounded out the fan switch and with the switch grounded the relay clicks maybe possible bad fan any help would be great??

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Have you run power direct to the fans to see if they turn on? Just run a jumper wire from the battery positive to the fans and ground the other terminal or run it to the negative terminal. This will verify the fan's motors as good.

Alternatively, do the fans turn on when you turn the AC on? They should. If they do, the overall circuit is good and it's a matter of figuring out where in the relay circuit it's bad.

UNCLE TOM

iTrader: (1)

hot-wire the fan motor to see if it's working . if not replace motor , the motor is cheap and pretty easy to change . good luck ...

87350gtanj

I did jump the fan and it does come on with direct power so I guess my next question is do the fans have a fusable link and if so where is it located?

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Do the fans turn on when you turn the AC on?

The fusable link is buried in the harness before the relay.

87350gtanj

fans do not work with ac on

NINÅ

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Thats the next step.

tom86iroc

iTrader: (1)

there are fusible links at the battery for the fans and the other is check your grounds

podiatra

So I had a manual switch to the fan that the previous owner installed. I disconnect it. The fan does not work including with a/c on. I did what NINA above stated, and there is power to the orange wire at the relay. What would be the next step. Check the fan motor? What is a jumper wire?
Thanks in advanced

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

There is a fuseable link in front of the relay. If that's bad, nothing will work.

podiatra

Anyway to test the fusible link, or just need to be replace? BTW, The red/black wire in the fan connector does not have power with test light.

NINÅ

podiatra

Thanks NINA. The fuse at the fuse block has power. When fused orange at the relay, to brown it did not click. But when I jumped the orange to the black/red at the connector, I can get the fan to turn on. When I ground the dark green wire at the connector I can't get the fan to run though.

I have place a new coolant fan switch, and also had to fix the connector that goes to it.

I like to mention that when I replaced the fan switch, I left the switch circuit and the manual switch connected as well. Do you think I fried something by doing that?


Thanks in advanced!!!

Ron U.S.M.C.

"If" the old relay was bad then double check the new relays connections.
I once tried to wire one using the mounting plate as the guide.
It had the mounting plate on a different part of the relay so my wires were off in the rotation.
Took me awhile to figure it out.

podiatra

Hey thanks! I will check that out as well.

podiatra

Ok. So I replaced the relay, and the fan is back to work; wig a/c as well. The only problem I am having is that the fan does not kick in when reach temperature even though I replace the coolant fan switch. If I ground the green/wire switch connector wire the does not turn on either.
What could that be?

podiatra

Just rechecked my connection of the green/white wire and the fan kicks in ONLY when I ground to the battery, not to the chassis. I replace a new coolant switch; I guess it could be defective. Is there a way to test the switch? The fact that the fan only turn on when I frown to battery only and not the chassis, is that something I should look into it?

Thanks in advanced!!!

NINÅ

podiatra

Thanks for your help NiNA. Yesterday the fan kicked in when temp was about 238(it is a stock switch); I checked with infrared thermometer. I will switch to one cooler though. So i guess the switch is working??

I do have a dealer manual. Could you lead me to which grounds I need to check? The car does have an manual switch from previous which works if I connect it.

Thanks again in advanced!

NINÅ

podiatra

Yeah, thanks. I will do to track the grounds. I would not be surprised that the wiring is altered. I do have the battery wire grounded to the fender. The manual shows a ground (g150) that is in the RH posterior head which suppose to be for the coolant fan.
You are right, the switch is working (stock) so it's coming on at 238 degrees.

Ron U.S.M.C.

The stock setting of 238* = Heck, let's break out the frying pan and cook some diner.


Just kidding around......


Some actually like it like that.

podiatra

oh yeah...really hot

Ron U.S.M.C.

I should not make a comment like that even in fun...
Its really no joke.
If you think that things are OK and you want to drop the running temperatures there are several lower temperature stock style fan switches to pick from and a few Temp. Controlled Adjustable fan switches that are out there.. I prefer the last option for my car with a 180* thermostat and those two keep my car at 180* to 200* range.

podiatra

I know...I just installed a 195-180 fan switch.

podiatra

Finally, I tested new 180-195 fan switch, and blow my new fan relay. This is my second blown new relay. When I installed my previous, new stock relay, it blew also. What might be wrong? Any suggestion appreciated!!

Ron U.S.M.C.

As long as its wired in this manner then it should be OK.
How large is the fan ? If its pulling a higher amperage then the other relays are rated at then that could cause problems. Was the switch using a relay or hard wired. If it was wired without the relay maybe that's why it was on a switch . What amperage rating does your relay have ?

podiatra

I am not sure about the amperage. I think I just found the relay by searching the part #. How can I check?

Ron U.S.M.C.

It should say on the relay.


When a fan gets to the point it is blowing fuses and relays because its amperage draw is to high then the stock wiring can be in trouble.
Its not gaged for it.


Does the fan sound OK ? Does it sound like its dragging or anything like that ?

podiatra

The relay is one of this old rectangular boxes with a 4-5 pins connectors. It only says the part number, not amperes.

The fan sounds normal to me. The relay blew right when the fan kicked in...
The first time it happens, it was the same thing; when I have installed anew fan switch. I must admit, the 2 new relays I have used are not a "brand" in particular, just generic, so I guess this could be a problem.

Also, when I was trying the fan switch wire about 1 month ago, I could only run the fun when a jump to the battery, not to the chassis. NINA suggested that I should check my ground. My service manual says that there is a ground behind the block RH that suppose to be for the fan. I have not check that part as of yet. Do you think that could be a problem?

Ron U.S.M.C.

A relay is such a simple device. Its either wired correctly or not.
If its not amperage that's blowing them its improper wiring.
Before you install the next relay probe each wire with a multi tester .

Ground the ground wire of the tester to a good spot and then probe each wire on the 12v setting (when off of the relay)looking for 12v constant hot. When you find it you will know it goes to the # 30 prong of the relay.


If you touch that wire to the one that should go to the fan it should kick on. That would go to the #87 prong.(be carful, it will be very "hot".)


You can turn the key to the "run" position and test the other two wires for 12v and that one will go to #85.
Then the wire left over is going to the fan switch # 86 and when it grounds it will trigger the relay and the fan.


I would do it in that order because you want to eliminate the high amperage wires first.

podiatra

Thanks! I will go for it sometime today or tomorrow.

podiatra

Ok. RON USMC, I checked the relay like you saind. It seems to me that it worked as you described. BUT, today I locked my keys in the car with the MANUAL fan switch on...LOL!
By the time the locksmith came in it was about 1.5 hr., and my relay caught on fire!!

I am using the stock fan relay. Do you think still I should get a higher amperage relay?

may be a short?

Ron U.S.M.C.

I installed a fan “kill” switch on the low amperage wire coming from the fuse box to the fan relay . That’s how the switch should be wired. Low amperage only. It is the one that controls the switch in the relay through a coil that connects to the other low amp ground wire on the other side. It’s energized when the key is in the “ON” position. It throws the switch at that time allowing the Hi Amperage flow and run the fan.

OK,
He could have taken that same wire and taped into a source other than the fuse box.
Like a Hi Amperage wire.
He also could have mounted the manual switch on it . That “could”explain why the relay caught on fire.

If you get tired of messing around with the stock wiring than its simple to make your own circuit using 18gage wire for the low amperage and 12 gage wire for the high amperage.
You don’t even have to make it look nice at first. Just create the circuit and see if it works.


I would not use the manual switch.
If you decide to do that then use the diagram in my reply #28 of this thread.


I can go into more detail like helping you find a spot in the fuse box for the low amperage wire power source.

podiatra

Thanks!! I will take apart the burned relay today, and process the info you gave me, so i can get familiarize. BUT, the previous owner connected the manual switch to the green wire, which I think is #87 in your diagram. I am not sure what wire gauge is but it looks pretty thin, definitely thinner than the green wire.

Ron U.S.M.C.

Can you follow that wire to see if its a ground wire or where its getting its power.


Also you said two fans right.
Correct me if I'm wrong but dose not each fan have its own relay.
I'm not real familiar with the duel fans.
My diagrams and information is for a single fan that is using the switch in the head and does not incorporate the A/C aspect. Not a ECM controlled fan.


One of the duel fans is using the switch in the head so it can be wired using the diagrams and information I have provided.


I also recommend using a fan switch that turns the fan on at a lower temperature than stock. Some thing in the 190* to 200* range.
Then use a 180* thermostat.
(that can be done at any time using the stock wiring)


That will make it the primary fan ,and use the ECM controlled fan as back up. The car will run much cooler.

podiatra

i have a single electric fan. My fan switch turns on at 195 and off 180.

the wires burned were the orange and the brown, which I think in your diagram are #85 and #87 along with relays as well. The fusible link in the orange seems that it didn't do anything.

oh... the fan motor I think is fried too, but I will double check today.

Ron U.S.M.C.

Sorry about that. The original post starter said two fans.


When I go to replace any wire in my bay I lay it out in the approximate rout and then cut it about two feet longer than I will need. Then I take black loom the same length and stretch it out until it striate.


Then I can either push the wire through or work it in through the slit on the loom. I use very small black zip ties about every foot as I go because the wire try's to work itself out the sides when you go to install it.


If you wait to put the loom on after its installed its a nightmare.