Problem Solving EZ-EFI "1.0"
07-23-2013, 04:59 PM
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Car: 89RS,89TBI FB, 91Z28, 89TPI FORMULA
Engine: 357 SBC TPI
Transmission: World Class T-5 (for now)
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt 3.73
Problem Solving EZ-EFI "1.0"
*Posted in both DFI/ECM and TPI forums*
This post is about the EZ-EFI (first version) Multi-point Retro kit and my 5-speed TPI, my problems, and how I solved them. Let me say first, that most all of the help I got was from the FAST/Comp Cams tech line and their FAST message board (linked below). Use them both. The instructions that came with the kit were sorely lacking many how-tos and operate on the assumption that the issues I fussed over, are common knowledge. It is advertised as “Plug And Play”. Verbiage like that is quite misleading in this case as nothing could have been farther from the truth. I was thinking “hey cool, unplug the old, plug in the new, add a vacuum advance distributor and a MAP sensor and roll”. You can see from my original post (linked below) that the things I had to change were a bit complicated enough without the minutiae I had to figure out after I did as the instructions told me. Add to that the fact that I had issue after issue after issue that just simply wasn’t well explained in the literature. I will explain in chronological order the issues I had and what I did to remedy them. Keep in mind there is always more than one way to fix something, other folks may have different solutions that work for them. Some of this may still apply to the EZ-EFI 2.0 as well, I don’t know yet. This is my way and my opinions as they relate to EZ-EFI.
The VERY FIRST thing you need to do is change your thinking about how smog cars are programmed and how performance cars are programmed. I have surmised that I was trying to apply smog-thinking to a performance package and it made my life hell for 2 years. In a nutshell, when working with the EZ-EFI, “more fuel, more timing” in the key. The act of simply adding more fuel to the ratios and bumping up the timing fixed a whole host of irritating issues I had. Why is this? In stock form, our engines try to maintain a stoich air-fuel ratio (14.7) or there abouts. The computer will add and subtract fuel as needed and advance and retard the timing as needed, that’s common knowledge. I applied the stoich ratios and minimal base timing and got nowhere. Wouldn’t idle, any fan usage sent the idle bouncing everywhere. Couldn’t accelerate through all ranges of the RPM band. Change one thing, it affects something else… then you need to let it learn. For me, I couldn’t really take it out very often because it was just embarrassing to pull up to a light in my cool car and have the engine rev and almost stall over and over at a light. Give it gas…stall. I had to move off of any ratio in the 14s. Air-Fuel in the 14s does not work when you want performance. Idling at 600 ain’t gonna happen either. Remember how you had your stock base timing at 6*? I researched and found 10* would work here, and it did, if your expectations of what you wanted out of this system were low enough, it would work. More fuel, more timing..and bring your patience too.
Problem #1: Wiring & EMI
In our cars, there’s really only one or two ways to route wire through the engine bay and not come near ignition equipment. I obviously found one of the wrong ways. The instructions do clearly state to keep the harness away from ignition (noisy) parts: plug wires, MSD boxes, the coil, the distributor. I only saw one way to route: out from the passenger side firewall, by the plug wires for 2/4/6/8, under the distributor, and by plug wires 1/3/5/7. I was getting some funky sensor readings, like the O2 having manic Monday every day. I mistakenly routed the BAT +/- wires through the driver firewall and under the MSD box and to the battery. This is totally my fail here. I rerouted the BAT wires out of the passenger side firewall, over the fender, over the radiator and to the battery top posts, all by themselves. Everything else is on the side posts. Seems they don’t like noise from other components either. The harness needed to be wrapped to shield it from the EMI it was getting as well. Simple aluminum foil did the trick. 6 inches before and after the plug wires and everything in between. I wrapped the O2 twice. The yellow tach lead got it’s own wrap too. To check, you need to go to Adv Options/More/Info. Look at the “IRM” value. FAST says anything over 10 is bad, in my experience anything over 03 won’t work. Initially, mine was between 07-10 and I was getting readings that just weren’t consistent. After the wrap, I now get between 00-02, 03 on a bad day. Remember, check this value key on, engine off at least 12 hours after you last turned the engine off.
Problem #2: Vacuum Equipment (distributor, MAP, AFPR, HVAC)
This tripped me up good too. After I got this right, tuning got even easier. I have 4 things that need vacuum and 2 ports on the plenum (that I knew of at the time). The wrong way is to double up either the distributor and/or MAP sensor. These items need their OWN SOURCES. Worse yet, I didn’t know what a “ported vacuum source” was (for the distributor), hell I figured it was a port on the plenum. I run MSD PB Distributor 8361 which calls for a ported vacuum source. Do not splice vacuum from the plenum to this either. That PV source is the little nipple on the underside on the throttle body. The MAP needs its own source, one of the nipples on the plenum will work for this. That leaves the AFPR and the HVAC control vac line. Those two can share a nipple on the plenum.
Problem #3: Bouncy Idle with Electrics (fan, stereo)
I swear I have never been so mad and frustrated in my life than when I was chasing this gremlin down. I worked on this on and off for the better part of a year; I had fantasies of ripping it all out, pulverizing it with my axe, setting it on fire and taking a big dump on the remains. This was the one area where the tech line was leading me nowhere and had me trying everything except the real solution. Then I found Gabriel. When you call, ask for him, he knows his shyte. Anywho, my note above about “more fuel” applies directly to this. In short, turn the car on, runs good. Fan kicks on, idle will bounce a bit. Kick up the volume on my favorite Dying Fetus CD with that fan, and the idle will bounce so much that it would eventually just stall. I have a list of 9 different scavenger hunt items they had me try (“move your 12vSW wire to the battery”, for example) but nothing made a difference. The solution was that I had my idle AFR at 14.5 or so (smog thinking) and when load was applied, since this computer can’t advance the timing to compensate, EZ added and removed fuel trying to adjust the idle to fix it. I moved the IAFR to 13.4 and bam, it was about 90% fixed The other 10% explained below. Totally drivable, no more moron “revving” his engine at the light.
3A: My way of Setting The IAC & Idle Speed
The directions have the bar graph method and that is fine. I use a method that is directly based off of the IAC value. First, set your idle speed where you want it, mine is 800. If you set it too low (750 for me), your won’t be able to keep a steady idle thus rendering the whole exercise pointless. Next, warm the car to about 170* and find the dash with the IAC value on it. Tune your throttle blades until you see around 15 for a manual trans, around 20 for an auto. You should have a relatively steady idle. If you cannot get the idle to settle down, try going back out to the idle speed screen and bump it up a bit. Turn the car off and run through the “calibrate TPS” procedures until you get to the bar graph part; once there simply skip it (just press DONE) and proceed with the finalization. You will have the IAC count you want without guessing what the bar graph will give you. Should you need to decrease your idle speed, you can do that now, but your IAC setting may decrease as well.
Problem #4: Idle/Cruise AFRs and the Neck Snapping Buck
Repeat, “more fuel”. So I can idle great, but off idle I would have this pause as it made the transition from idle fuel trim to cruise fuel trim. I had the cuise AFR set 14.1 or something. 14s do not work. I found that setting the IAFR and CAFR closer together made the transition from idle to cruise seamless. That new value is 13.7. So IAFR 13.4, CAFR 13.7. That worked great when I feathered the clutch. If I had a hard launch or punched it coming out of 2nd gear, the car would buck pretty violently until I clutched and feathered again. Apparently it was loading up. I watched my actual AFR and it would buck with a 10.9 AFR. The first inclination is to fiddle with the Accel Fuel, which in most cases would probably work. Repeat, “more timing”. In my case, I only had 10* of base timing (and vac advance). That’s just not enough to burn everything in the cylinder. I bumped my base timing up to 14* and (again) Bam! This fixed the other 10% of my idle issue as well. Turn both fans and the stereo on, no sweat, perfect idle. This also eliminated the buck and gave me my car back. No more driving it like a Honda.
Accel Fuel Logic
I used to think AccFu was the cure all for most everything. Not so. The logic here is that it supplements the base fuel map when you really get in the gas. This should probably be the last thing you adjust, and in SMALL increments at that. For my 165 heads, I don’t really need a whole bunch more fuel with my 13.7 ratio and my WOT 12.5 ratio. It’s ok to use a negative value here, I have used anywhere from –01 to –04 currently (still dialing this in as I type this). For instance, with my current setting and –04, I can feel a slight hesitance when I’m putting my foot in it. I will adjust that back to –03 or –02, which ever one will give me back some response but not load up when I floor it. That was another issue I had; on the dyno, the guy would drop the hammer and the car would either pause for a second or so, or buck to the point where we had to abort the pull. I know I’ll use –04 for the dyno and perhaps something a touch richer for the street.
So many posts on the other forum and Gabriel on the tech line and QuickChicken on TGO (Richard!) have been so helpful to me. If I didn’t have this assistance, I would be sending my PROM off to FastChip and tuning by mail. Once again, I want to say to the chip burners and XFI guys, this was my situation with EZ-EFI. I do not claim that anything I have written here applies to everyone. My final opinion is mostly positive. I wish I had either waited until more people were using it or someone had typed up a post like this. I have a head/cam swap in the future and that was the sole impetus for this project. I have no desire to tune by mail, learn to burn, or figure out all that XFI has to offer. As you can see, I had a hard enough time with a product dubbed "EZ”. My prior dyno posts, I believe, prove that EZ is a worthwhile investment. 357fwhp and 507fwtq on a TPI ain’t no joke. My goal is 400/400 and I think I can get there.
My original installation post:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/dfi-...i-install.html
The FAST Forum:
http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/fast-...t-support.html
Tech Line: 1(901) 260-3278, ask for Gabriel, you’ll be glad you did.
This post is about the EZ-EFI (first version) Multi-point Retro kit and my 5-speed TPI, my problems, and how I solved them. Let me say first, that most all of the help I got was from the FAST/Comp Cams tech line and their FAST message board (linked below). Use them both. The instructions that came with the kit were sorely lacking many how-tos and operate on the assumption that the issues I fussed over, are common knowledge. It is advertised as “Plug And Play”. Verbiage like that is quite misleading in this case as nothing could have been farther from the truth. I was thinking “hey cool, unplug the old, plug in the new, add a vacuum advance distributor and a MAP sensor and roll”. You can see from my original post (linked below) that the things I had to change were a bit complicated enough without the minutiae I had to figure out after I did as the instructions told me. Add to that the fact that I had issue after issue after issue that just simply wasn’t well explained in the literature. I will explain in chronological order the issues I had and what I did to remedy them. Keep in mind there is always more than one way to fix something, other folks may have different solutions that work for them. Some of this may still apply to the EZ-EFI 2.0 as well, I don’t know yet. This is my way and my opinions as they relate to EZ-EFI.
The VERY FIRST thing you need to do is change your thinking about how smog cars are programmed and how performance cars are programmed. I have surmised that I was trying to apply smog-thinking to a performance package and it made my life hell for 2 years. In a nutshell, when working with the EZ-EFI, “more fuel, more timing” in the key. The act of simply adding more fuel to the ratios and bumping up the timing fixed a whole host of irritating issues I had. Why is this? In stock form, our engines try to maintain a stoich air-fuel ratio (14.7) or there abouts. The computer will add and subtract fuel as needed and advance and retard the timing as needed, that’s common knowledge. I applied the stoich ratios and minimal base timing and got nowhere. Wouldn’t idle, any fan usage sent the idle bouncing everywhere. Couldn’t accelerate through all ranges of the RPM band. Change one thing, it affects something else… then you need to let it learn. For me, I couldn’t really take it out very often because it was just embarrassing to pull up to a light in my cool car and have the engine rev and almost stall over and over at a light. Give it gas…stall. I had to move off of any ratio in the 14s. Air-Fuel in the 14s does not work when you want performance. Idling at 600 ain’t gonna happen either. Remember how you had your stock base timing at 6*? I researched and found 10* would work here, and it did, if your expectations of what you wanted out of this system were low enough, it would work. More fuel, more timing..and bring your patience too.
Problem #1: Wiring & EMI
In our cars, there’s really only one or two ways to route wire through the engine bay and not come near ignition equipment. I obviously found one of the wrong ways. The instructions do clearly state to keep the harness away from ignition (noisy) parts: plug wires, MSD boxes, the coil, the distributor. I only saw one way to route: out from the passenger side firewall, by the plug wires for 2/4/6/8, under the distributor, and by plug wires 1/3/5/7. I was getting some funky sensor readings, like the O2 having manic Monday every day. I mistakenly routed the BAT +/- wires through the driver firewall and under the MSD box and to the battery. This is totally my fail here. I rerouted the BAT wires out of the passenger side firewall, over the fender, over the radiator and to the battery top posts, all by themselves. Everything else is on the side posts. Seems they don’t like noise from other components either. The harness needed to be wrapped to shield it from the EMI it was getting as well. Simple aluminum foil did the trick. 6 inches before and after the plug wires and everything in between. I wrapped the O2 twice. The yellow tach lead got it’s own wrap too. To check, you need to go to Adv Options/More/Info. Look at the “IRM” value. FAST says anything over 10 is bad, in my experience anything over 03 won’t work. Initially, mine was between 07-10 and I was getting readings that just weren’t consistent. After the wrap, I now get between 00-02, 03 on a bad day. Remember, check this value key on, engine off at least 12 hours after you last turned the engine off.
Problem #2: Vacuum Equipment (distributor, MAP, AFPR, HVAC)
This tripped me up good too. After I got this right, tuning got even easier. I have 4 things that need vacuum and 2 ports on the plenum (that I knew of at the time). The wrong way is to double up either the distributor and/or MAP sensor. These items need their OWN SOURCES. Worse yet, I didn’t know what a “ported vacuum source” was (for the distributor), hell I figured it was a port on the plenum. I run MSD PB Distributor 8361 which calls for a ported vacuum source. Do not splice vacuum from the plenum to this either. That PV source is the little nipple on the underside on the throttle body. The MAP needs its own source, one of the nipples on the plenum will work for this. That leaves the AFPR and the HVAC control vac line. Those two can share a nipple on the plenum.
Problem #3: Bouncy Idle with Electrics (fan, stereo)
I swear I have never been so mad and frustrated in my life than when I was chasing this gremlin down. I worked on this on and off for the better part of a year; I had fantasies of ripping it all out, pulverizing it with my axe, setting it on fire and taking a big dump on the remains. This was the one area where the tech line was leading me nowhere and had me trying everything except the real solution. Then I found Gabriel. When you call, ask for him, he knows his shyte. Anywho, my note above about “more fuel” applies directly to this. In short, turn the car on, runs good. Fan kicks on, idle will bounce a bit. Kick up the volume on my favorite Dying Fetus CD with that fan, and the idle will bounce so much that it would eventually just stall. I have a list of 9 different scavenger hunt items they had me try (“move your 12vSW wire to the battery”, for example) but nothing made a difference. The solution was that I had my idle AFR at 14.5 or so (smog thinking) and when load was applied, since this computer can’t advance the timing to compensate, EZ added and removed fuel trying to adjust the idle to fix it. I moved the IAFR to 13.4 and bam, it was about 90% fixed The other 10% explained below. Totally drivable, no more moron “revving” his engine at the light.
3A: My way of Setting The IAC & Idle Speed
The directions have the bar graph method and that is fine. I use a method that is directly based off of the IAC value. First, set your idle speed where you want it, mine is 800. If you set it too low (750 for me), your won’t be able to keep a steady idle thus rendering the whole exercise pointless. Next, warm the car to about 170* and find the dash with the IAC value on it. Tune your throttle blades until you see around 15 for a manual trans, around 20 for an auto. You should have a relatively steady idle. If you cannot get the idle to settle down, try going back out to the idle speed screen and bump it up a bit. Turn the car off and run through the “calibrate TPS” procedures until you get to the bar graph part; once there simply skip it (just press DONE) and proceed with the finalization. You will have the IAC count you want without guessing what the bar graph will give you. Should you need to decrease your idle speed, you can do that now, but your IAC setting may decrease as well.
Problem #4: Idle/Cruise AFRs and the Neck Snapping Buck
Repeat, “more fuel”. So I can idle great, but off idle I would have this pause as it made the transition from idle fuel trim to cruise fuel trim. I had the cuise AFR set 14.1 or something. 14s do not work. I found that setting the IAFR and CAFR closer together made the transition from idle to cruise seamless. That new value is 13.7. So IAFR 13.4, CAFR 13.7. That worked great when I feathered the clutch. If I had a hard launch or punched it coming out of 2nd gear, the car would buck pretty violently until I clutched and feathered again. Apparently it was loading up. I watched my actual AFR and it would buck with a 10.9 AFR. The first inclination is to fiddle with the Accel Fuel, which in most cases would probably work. Repeat, “more timing”. In my case, I only had 10* of base timing (and vac advance). That’s just not enough to burn everything in the cylinder. I bumped my base timing up to 14* and (again) Bam! This fixed the other 10% of my idle issue as well. Turn both fans and the stereo on, no sweat, perfect idle. This also eliminated the buck and gave me my car back. No more driving it like a Honda.
Accel Fuel Logic
I used to think AccFu was the cure all for most everything. Not so. The logic here is that it supplements the base fuel map when you really get in the gas. This should probably be the last thing you adjust, and in SMALL increments at that. For my 165 heads, I don’t really need a whole bunch more fuel with my 13.7 ratio and my WOT 12.5 ratio. It’s ok to use a negative value here, I have used anywhere from –01 to –04 currently (still dialing this in as I type this). For instance, with my current setting and –04, I can feel a slight hesitance when I’m putting my foot in it. I will adjust that back to –03 or –02, which ever one will give me back some response but not load up when I floor it. That was another issue I had; on the dyno, the guy would drop the hammer and the car would either pause for a second or so, or buck to the point where we had to abort the pull. I know I’ll use –04 for the dyno and perhaps something a touch richer for the street.
So many posts on the other forum and Gabriel on the tech line and QuickChicken on TGO (Richard!) have been so helpful to me. If I didn’t have this assistance, I would be sending my PROM off to FastChip and tuning by mail. Once again, I want to say to the chip burners and XFI guys, this was my situation with EZ-EFI. I do not claim that anything I have written here applies to everyone. My final opinion is mostly positive. I wish I had either waited until more people were using it or someone had typed up a post like this. I have a head/cam swap in the future and that was the sole impetus for this project. I have no desire to tune by mail, learn to burn, or figure out all that XFI has to offer. As you can see, I had a hard enough time with a product dubbed "EZ”. My prior dyno posts, I believe, prove that EZ is a worthwhile investment. 357fwhp and 507fwtq on a TPI ain’t no joke. My goal is 400/400 and I think I can get there.
My original installation post:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/dfi-...i-install.html
The FAST Forum:
http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/fast-...t-support.html
Tech Line: 1(901) 260-3278, ask for Gabriel, you’ll be glad you did.
07-23-2013, 08:10 PM
#2
Re: Problem Solving EZ-EFI "1.0"
glad you got it sorted out. timing and electrical noise is the 2 things I've heard the guys talk about at work. I learned about the noise issue with my
o2. I would keep getting an o2 code after the car was running and I talked to the engineer and he mentioned electrical noise so I took my o2 harness and tossed it across the plenum till I had time to sort it out.
I sorted this out when I installed a DUI performance dists narrow cap external dizzy (pn 14000) and made sure anything ign related was clear by at least 3 in. all solved. my DUI HEI was obnoxiously noisy.
being my motor is in the "waaay too much compression that cant be correctly tuned " area I found that when we did add the correct amount of timing by most standards it liked it at idle and ran smooth but didn't like it on acceleration. this will be fixed shortly with the 383.
I wont say what you delt with is typical but should be somewhat expected with using a system that is universal where arrangements can vary greatly.
o2. I would keep getting an o2 code after the car was running and I talked to the engineer and he mentioned electrical noise so I took my o2 harness and tossed it across the plenum till I had time to sort it out.
I sorted this out when I installed a DUI performance dists narrow cap external dizzy (pn 14000) and made sure anything ign related was clear by at least 3 in. all solved. my DUI HEI was obnoxiously noisy.
being my motor is in the "waaay too much compression that cant be correctly tuned " area I found that when we did add the correct amount of timing by most standards it liked it at idle and ran smooth but didn't like it on acceleration. this will be fixed shortly with the 383.
I wont say what you delt with is typical but should be somewhat expected with using a system that is universal where arrangements can vary greatly.
07-27-2013, 09:35 PM
#4
Re: Problem Solving EZ-EFI "1.0"
and if you don't have a place that burns chips or knows tuning this is the answer to that issue.
07-29-2013, 08:32 PM
#7
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Re: Problem Solving EZ-EFI "1.0"
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Last edited by BOSS 357; 07-30-2013 at 11:01 AM.
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07-30-2013, 05:37 AM
#9
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Car: 89RS,89TBI FB, 91Z28, 89TPI FORMULA
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Re: Problem Solving EZ-EFI "1.0"
I responded with a quote from my original post and added Megasquirt because it wasn't listed in my original post.
Last edited by BOSS 357; 07-30-2013 at 11:02 AM.
12-16-2013, 11:43 PM
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Re: Problem Solving EZ-EFI "1.0"
Glad you had some luck buddie. I talked to you a while back and had the same probblems and frustrations too. To bad its on my daily driver so i havent had time to put it back on and play with it. Spent a year pulling out my hair ready to take the old luisville slugger to it before i put the carb back on. Sounds like i made every mistake you mentioned. I have a 400 sbc build in progress that i think ill throw the ez efi on and tpi. Wanted to run it any way as if i had any leaks i have to pull the motor no way to get to the pan on my 70 chevy 4x4. Any way thank you for posting your findings ive had this thing in a box for two years at a loss of ideas.
12-17-2013, 10:16 AM
#12
Re: Problem Solving EZ-EFI "1.0"
Repeat, “more fuel”. So I can idle great, but off idle I would have this pause as it made the transition from idle fuel trim to cruise fuel trim. I had the cuise AFR set 14.1 or something. 14s do not work.
I dont quite understand why car wont run at stoich? Did the dyno run a WB during pulls to compare to your WB reads?
If you set the WB to lambda it may be a way of verifying... Assuming WB is set to 14.7 for stoich. 13.7/14.7= .93 If set to 14.1 for stoich E10 being 13.7/14.1= .97 ...
12-17-2013, 11:29 AM
#13
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Re: Problem Solving EZ-EFI "1.0"
70k: I completely understand your frustration. I think this time you can get it to work, try my solutions and if you still need help, just ask. I'll answer whatever questions the best I can. Also the FAST forum I mentioned in the original post is a great help. Don't be dissuaded by the nay-sayers, the system DOES WORK.
Ronny: I feel confident the WB O2 is working properly. After some months of just driving it, I've come to think that perhaps I can run a 14.7 or thereabouts cruise/idle target. BUT, with the amount of time I spent effing with it for months on end, I'm loathe to start changing things at this point. Car runs great, not a sputter to be heard. Gas mileage is a moot point for this weekend cruiser. In the end, the base timing, where I had the distributor vac advance connected to the car, and where the MAP sensor got its reference were really what fixed my issue.
Ronny: I feel confident the WB O2 is working properly. After some months of just driving it, I've come to think that perhaps I can run a 14.7 or thereabouts cruise/idle target. BUT, with the amount of time I spent effing with it for months on end, I'm loathe to start changing things at this point. Car runs great, not a sputter to be heard. Gas mileage is a moot point for this weekend cruiser. In the end, the base timing, where I had the distributor vac advance connected to the car, and where the MAP sensor got its reference were really what fixed my issue.
12-17-2013, 11:50 AM
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Re: Problem Solving EZ-EFI "1.0"
Oh that goddaammm "ported vacuum" source, scourge of my existance for 2 solid years. I actually plugged the vac adv into a port on the plenum..so...you see where my knowledge was at the time! But yes, the little tiny port under the throttle body where the EGR vac was plugged in is the correct port for this situation. The MAP got it's own port on the plenum as well. I had everything (MAP, dist, FPR, HVAC vac) all T'd off from those 2 ports on the plenum.
This was my main gripe about it being "plug and play", the language is deceiving. There is certain basic knowledge one is required to have before doing this upgrade, and I certainly didn't have it.
This was my main gripe about it being "plug and play", the language is deceiving. There is certain basic knowledge one is required to have before doing this upgrade, and I certainly didn't have it.
10-22-2014, 04:56 PM
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Re: Problem Solving EZ-EFI "1.0"
any updates on this as I'm getting ready to install one myself
10-22-2014, 06:28 PM
#17
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Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt 3.73
Re: Problem Solving EZ-EFI "1.0"
Its been working great ever since my last post, what can I help you with?
10-22-2014, 08:29 PM
#18
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Location: Lexington NC
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Car: 85 IROCZ
Engine: 350 TPI with a fast EZ efi
Transmission: t-5 conversion
Axle/Gears: 3;42
Re: Problem Solving EZ-EFI "1.0"
What did you do with the stock wiring harness did you remove it completely? My car is a 85, I'm putting in a l-31 350, with aluminum heads and T-5 trans, stock 3:42 limited slip rear. When I get moving on it (just have to get a new dist,coil and msd box) I'll keep ya posted with any problems or concerns that arise.
10-23-2014, 02:28 PM
#19
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Car: 89RS,89TBI FB, 91Z28, 89TPI FORMULA
Engine: 357 SBC TPI
Transmission: World Class T-5 (for now)
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt 3.73
Re: Problem Solving EZ-EFI "1.0"
"The Plan" was to remove all of the harness that pertained to the stock ECM. After spending almost 2 years chasing the easy out of the "EZ", I got burned out of working on the car. I've been enjoying just driving it the past year or two. Eventually, the engine & transmission are coming out for a head/cam/TKO swap, which is when I will remove the harness.
10-23-2014, 03:11 PM
#20
That's what I did and where I am now. I have sold my 5 speed, disassembled some of the top end stuff and trying to find time to yank the motor so I can de loom the Eng bay.
I'm glad it's taking me a bit, this is keeping me from rushing and goofing something up. I plan on looming the reqd harness parts with the EZ system.
When I first set the system up I ran it thru the stock factory harness hole in the pas kick panel. I may re run everything from the dr side so I won't need to stretch things as much.
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
I'm glad it's taking me a bit, this is keeping me from rushing and goofing something up. I plan on looming the reqd harness parts with the EZ system.
When I first set the system up I ran it thru the stock factory harness hole in the pas kick panel. I may re run everything from the dr side so I won't need to stretch things as much.
Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
10-23-2014, 08:41 PM
#21
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Location: Lexington NC
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Car: 85 IROCZ
Engine: 350 TPI with a fast EZ efi
Transmission: t-5 conversion
Axle/Gears: 3;42
Re: Problem Solving EZ-EFI "1.0"
OK, I see!!!!!! Yup that's what I'm going to do while I got the engine and trans out
10-29-2014, 01:30 PM
#22
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Location: Lexington NC
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Car: 85 IROCZ
Engine: 350 TPI with a fast EZ efi
Transmission: t-5 conversion
Axle/Gears: 3;42
Re: Problem Solving EZ-EFI "1.0"
hey guys I thinking about running a mechanical advance dist, instead of a vacuum advance one. Any thoughts?????????????????????
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