The Vats nightmare continues
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The Vats nightmare continues
I hope I have posted this in the right section and I hope someone can help me with this. I have posted about this problem before and a lot of people were very helpful and receptive. I have a 3.1L 91 firebird and I had taken it to a local shop. The shop told me awhile back that the steering column was shot so I took them at their word. I had the column rebuilt supposedly but it was done wrong (so I was told by them) and they told me the wipers would not shut off unless the fuse was pulled. So they hooked me up with a 91 camaro steering column and they installed it after many goof-ups on their part. As soon as they got it installed, I paid them and drove it home. I came outside later that night to start it and it would not crank or anything, nothing happened. All gauges maxed out as I turned the key, no security light on, no crank at all. We took it back to the shop and they worked on it here and there and they eventually started it and let it run for twenty minutes. They said they turned it off and went out for lunch, came back and tried to start it again and the car would not crank for them either. The VATS system was locking them out of the car. The one part I buy off a junkyard camaro is the one part that put it there, go figure. They had told me that they had a blacksmith cut me a new key with a new resistor pellet in it. I checked the resistance yesterday, it was 952. Needless to say after having the car sit up there for a year and little work done to my bird, I brought it home. I have been watching videos on how to bypass VATS with these 1/2 watt resistors and such but all of these fixes seem to apply to old keys that the resistor has crapped out on them. I have a new key that was made so I'm not sure these bypasses will work for me. What do you guys think? Could you explain this to me?
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Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
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Re: The Vats nightmare continues
Putting the resistors inline down under the column isn't bypassing the vats, its just bypassing 1 part of it, which its not really doing that. Its just moving the pellet to the lower column. VATS is still functional.
A common problem is the wires on the ign lock cyl break off and the vats won't get the needed resistance.
Search for full VATS bypass on here or google.
A common problem is the wires on the ign lock cyl break off and the vats won't get the needed resistance.
Search for full VATS bypass on here or google.
#3
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Re: The Vats nightmare continues
From what I understand, there are basically three ways to get around VATS:
Resistor bypass - this is ideal because it costs about $.10, and you can unplug the resistor and take it with you if security is a concern. The other nice thing about this is that you can always hook VATS back up; just remove the resistor and reconnect the wiring to the steering column.
Passkey Module bypass - swap in a module that simulates the "all clear" signal from the Passkey module (which is responsible for making sure you have the correct key resistance) to the ECM.
ECM bypass - Remove the VATS provision from the ECM (which lets the car run without VATS) and bypass the starter enable relay (which lets the car start without VATS).
I've been having trouble with VATS too lately; you can check out this thread if you want to see the steps I've taken: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...iagnosing.html
Also, I have a set of "official" bypass resistors available. If you want to pay for shipping they're yours (just pass the leftover ones on to the next guy).
Resistor bypass - this is ideal because it costs about $.10, and you can unplug the resistor and take it with you if security is a concern. The other nice thing about this is that you can always hook VATS back up; just remove the resistor and reconnect the wiring to the steering column.
Passkey Module bypass - swap in a module that simulates the "all clear" signal from the Passkey module (which is responsible for making sure you have the correct key resistance) to the ECM.
ECM bypass - Remove the VATS provision from the ECM (which lets the car run without VATS) and bypass the starter enable relay (which lets the car start without VATS).
I've been having trouble with VATS too lately; you can check out this thread if you want to see the steps I've taken: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...iagnosing.html
Also, I have a set of "official" bypass resistors available. If you want to pay for shipping they're yours (just pass the leftover ones on to the next guy).
#4
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Re: The Vats nightmare continues
Originally Posted by Oenone
I came outside later that night to start it and it would not crank or anything, nothing happened. All gauges maxed out as I turned the key, no security light on, no crank at all.
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Re: The Vats nightmare continues
Yeah, I didn't start having these problems until after they installed the camaro column. My firebird one always did fine, never had any trouble firing up. I will admit the key cylinder in this column is really stiff and hard to crank. I'll try all the things you guys mentioned and give an update. I'll check the neutral safety switch too. Thank you guys for all your help. I think I might take a video and post it if I get time.
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Re: The Vats nightmare continues
Hi all, I wouldn't really call this an "update" per say but more of an observation. I went outside and had to give my car a jump and just out of curiosity I brought my new key outside and the old camaro key as well. I got the battery charged up enough to get the dash lights working and I put the new key in. The SES light came on and went off after about a minute of leaving the key in the ignition but the yellow security light stays on solid. I turned the key and as usual, nothing happens. I used the old camaro key and it wouldn't even turn. I plan this weekend on testing the neutral safety switch since I have an automatic. Thank you again so much guys for your help.
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#8
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Re: The Vats nightmare continues
Originally Posted by Street Lethal
Doesn't sound like your VATS system. If the SES light turns off after a few seconds during initial key on, then the ECM is reading the correct resistance...
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Re: The Vats nightmare continues
No worries. The old camaro key's resistance was 945 and the new key the blacksmith made me was 952. If I do end up trying the resistors, what wattage do I need to buy? 1/2 watt? 1/4 watt?
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Engine: 5.7TPI
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Re: The Vats nightmare continues
9520
On the 20k setting, a reading of 9.52 on a multimeter would equal 9.52k ohms. This would equal 9,520 ohms. There are 1000 ohms in a K ohm.
Confused now?? Don't be.
On the 20k setting, a reading of 9.52 on a multimeter would equal 9.52k ohms. This would equal 9,520 ohms. There are 1000 ohms in a K ohm.
Confused now?? Don't be.
Last edited by Bob88GTA; 09-30-2016 at 08:52 AM.
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Re: The Vats nightmare continues
Okay, just confirming before I buy the wrong value. You're awesome Bob
Last edited by Oenone; 09-30-2016 at 06:08 PM. Reason: Bob's awesomeness
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