greggbruce

iTrader: (1)

anything cold idle related --- still trying to figure out what affects what --- ignition "stall saver" timing, "IAC keep alive", ect...... this thing surges, dies when put into gear and is just not right. I have changed everything from high to low that seems idle related that I can think of, and it seems to not make a change. Once it warms up, it seems just fine. It is a MAF system and has a 214/228 duration at .050 cam in it, brand new ported heads and headers with no cat, I don't know which way or where to go with this thing, I am still somewhat new to this stuff.... (started with the APYR factory chip)

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Due to the cam need to increase the idle speed. With so many changes to the engine there may also be mechanical issues. Simple items such as base timing, valve adjustment, and/or vacuum leaks need to be considered.

RBob.

greggbruce

iTrader: (1)

yeah, all that stuff is new along with the new heads.... set idle speed vs. coolant temp to start at 1200 and end up at 750 by 130* ( new coolant temp sensor, new o2 sensor, new maf,new hoses, new distributor, ect.) this was put together for my middle son's car as an everyday driver. No vac leaks, I think the timing is about 10* initial.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

New doesn't mean that it is good, plenty of stuff comes out of the box bad. Note that I didn't mention 'new' items, just that there may be mechanical issues. Not knowing the base timing is an issue right there.

It has to match the initial spark advance in the calibration.

If you changed injectors then the injector compensation values need to be changed to match.

How do the plugs look? Tells a lot about the tune/mechanicals.

RBob.

greggbruce

iTrader: (1)

with that cam, usually 10-12* is what they like, I just didn't remember where I set it is all, I did not know about the initial spark advance in the calibration. I will check that (I'm sure it doesn't match) and will change that. The injectors are a re-furbed set from SouthBay injectors, and are set according to what they said. Have already checked for vacuum leaks, I personally set the valves myself (been doing that stuff for 30 years). It is just confusing, this thing runs just fine after it warms up with no issues at all. Only the first start from stone cold is where it's not right and it seems everything I have changed in the calibration makes no difference. I will see if the timing parameter will be the magic bullet.....

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

RBob is right. Had the very same issue, no start in cold weather, popping in exhaust when cranking too long, timing was on the money. Pulled the number one spark plug wire from the plug, stuck a small flat head screwdriver into it, cranked the engine, was definitely getting spark. Pulled the spark plugs themselves, they were saturated with fuel from cranking over and over. So, was definitely getting fuel and spark, just no start. Plugs were fouled from cranking, cleaned them up, they "looked" good, put them back in, still no start. RBob recommended new plugs, took a trip to Advanced Auto, fifteen minutes later, car fired right up immediately...

greggbruce

iTrader: (1)

yeah, they are brand new and not fuel fouled.

Started over with the factory APYR again, now starts better cold, but dies when put into gear unless you use both feet. Have set minimum idle on the table to 750, wondering if I should make it 900? I am guessing the IAC cannot respond fast enough when it's put into gear to compensate -- possibly due to lower vacuum at idle because of the cam --- any ideas how to combat this ??

RBob

iTrader: (1)

It may be that the P/N idle speed adder needs to be bumped up:

This gives the engine and IAC a running chance as the load hits.

RBob.

greggbruce

iTrader: (1)

so if that is already at 50, should I change it to 100?

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Try 75 RPM first and see how it is. Don't want to go too high as that will make for rough P/N to D shifts. See what works and adjust, the P/N RPM adder is in 12.5 RPM increments.

I just thought of another item, you mentioned it, the stall saver. Once the engine falls below a set RPM the stall saver will kick in and set the spark advance to the base timing. Not good on a cam'd engine.

See this thread for the info on taking care of it:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...ver-sa-8d.html

RBob.

greggbruce

iTrader: (1)

RBob -- thanks, you are a huge help. Changing the "stall creator" [stall saver] thingy fixed it. Odd they would think taking the timing out would prevent a stall..... I would have never figured it out on my own. Wish there was something I could do for you....

RBob

iTrader: (1)

You're welcome. It is definitely a strange one, I didn't expect to find that.

RBob.