S92RS

iTrader: (1)

After seeing the keyless entry setup a couple of my friends have in their cars, I've decided I have to have one too. I have an 84 Z28, and the problem is my car does not have power locks at all. Will an aftermarket power lock setup fit in our cars? Will it work with the lock mechanism? Is there a particular one that will work?

I really don't want to go with a factory setup, I wouldn't be able to get the factory lock actuators and stuff new, and I'm not going to put used ones in. I've had 4 thirdgens and 2 of them had power locks. The mechanisms never worked right in either car, so used ones are out of the question.

Wiring is not a problem. I would get factory switches and connectors, and use them to retain the OE look. As far as the keyless entry part of the system I will go with a good quality car alarm with the keyless entry feature.

Any ideas or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Steve

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- the 92 RS is gone..
- 1984 Z28 with 89 bumpers and ground effects.
- 355 with ported World S/R Torquer Heads, 214*/224* .471/.496 lift cam, Crane 1.6 Full Roller Rockers, 2500 non-lockup stall converter, Holley 750 carb, Edelbrock Performer intake, Hedman headers with custom 3" Flowmaster exhaust, Lakewood LCAs, Powertrax Locker with 3.23 gears.
- http://s84z28.fbody.com

S92RS

iTrader: (1)

Sorry about the double post. My connection screwed up

Chris Luongo

I haven't seen the inside of a thirdgen door, so I don't know how easy or difficult it would be to fit the power locks. You'd have to pull it apart and look for yourself.

Basically, the aftermarket door lock solenoid, called an "actuator," has a metal rod about 10" long. You bend the rod into whatever shape you need, and there's a little clamp...you clamp this rod onto the rod on your car.

The body of the actuator is about 1 1/2" wide, 3/4" thick, and 6" long. You screw the body to the sheetmetal on the inside of your car door, somewhere in parallel with the factory rod you want to make move. It can be tough to find a spot where you can mount the actuator, and still get the door panel back on.

The actuator has two wires; hooking them to the battery one way opens the door, and the other closes it. You run the wires from each door into the passenger compartment and bring them to one place. You'll need two ordinary SPDT (single pole, double throw) relays to control them.

You can hook switches to the relays if you'd like, but you could forget the switches altogether and simply wire the relays up to your alarm, and use the remote to lock/unlock the doors. Then your car would still look factory.

The relay you could get anywhere for $10 or less (you'll need two). The door actuators are $20 at Circuit City or Best Buy, but they wholesale for like $5 so you should be able to find them cheaper somewhere else. Or just consider buying the complete kit from J.C. Whitney.

RSpeed

Aftermarket locks are pretty simple. Our doors are especially easy bacause of the big opening where the factory locks go.You'll have to wire up two realys: one for lock and one for unlock.If you think about taking it to a shop,it will cost you on the average of about $75- $125 per door,plus the keless entry/alarm module.As an example,our shop charges $139 for a keyless entry,and $75 per door if you need lock actuators.

[This message has been edited by RSpeed (edited November 06, 2000).]