vats is killing me! Please help me.
10-02-2007, 08:58 PM
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
I also have a 1989 Firebird with same VATS problem. I need someone to program me a new chip. Can anyone do this for me?? or has someone come up with a answer to the VATS bypass that is easier?
10-31-2007, 04:19 PM
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
to make no mistakes that i figured this out myself i copied this off of another site to save ppl a little bit of time.
VATS/PASSKey I/II bypass on GM cars
Well, I did not even have a clear idea of what a VATS system was and I did not care at all about it until I found myself stuck on a Wal-Mart parking on a Saturday morning. My 95 Buick LeSabre would just crank, the engine would start for 1 second and then die.
I spent 50 bucks for towing the car to a mechanic, then another 100 bucks for diagnostic and the problem came out to be a fault in the security system. At this point, the dealer is the only one that could have it fixed... For about 1000CAD!
I did not really mean to spend this money when the problem was just security. I mean, the car itself was running spectacular; never had problems and I love it.
So I went google'ing and researching for the whole day and I discovered some funny things that explain a lot, but I won't comment on the funny side, will just stick on the solution that saved me all the money.
I wrote this page for 2 reasons:
1) A nightmare weekend for me. I don't want it to be the same for someone else.
2) I hate hidden things and people that make money out of them.
This document apply to the following cars:
Pontiac
1994-1996 Grand Prix
1992-1999 Bonneville
1993-2002 Firebird/Trans Am/Firehawk
Buick
1994-1996 Regal
1992-1999 LeSabre
1991-1996 Park Avenue
1991-1996 Roadmaster
Oldsmobile
1994-1997 Cutlass Supreme
1992-1999 Eighty Eight/LSS/Ninety Eight/Regency
1991-1996 Custom Cruiser Wagon
Chevrolet
1995-1999 Monte Carlo
1995-2001 Lumina
1993-2002 Camaro
1986(?)-1996 Corvette (C4)
Cadillac
1991-1996 Fleetwood
1992-1997(?) Seville/STS/DeVille
Any other GM Vehicles with the VATS or PASSKey I/II system
If you have your car diagnosed with "security system problems" and you are suggested to go to a dealer, then do NOT.
It is most probably a "security problem" when everything runs just fine and then suddenly one of the following happens:
- Engine won't start, won't even crank
- Engine would crank, start for 1sec and then die
- "security" light will flash and one of the above happens
This is a typical problem and would cost you about 1000 bucks if you go to a dealer, but can be easily solved with 8 bucks. You just need to buy some very few basic electronic components that you can even find at Radio Shack and then make a circuit that even kids can do at home. Installation is even easier.
How the VATS/PASSkey system works:
First, I would suggest you asking the question to a dealer, so you can have a lot of fun.
There are a lot of variants in the answers they could give you. One that I heard is that there is a microchip in the key that exchange information with the "whole system" and then only after this information is validated the system will send a "class 2" signal to the PCM to enable the injectors, otherwise everything will be shut off cause the car thinks it's being stolen.
I would like to say the very same in easy English words:
- That thing in the key is just a resistor, not a microchip at all; it has no brain, just a value that you can easily measure.
- The "whole system" is just a black box 6" wide and it's called the TDM (Theft Deterrent Module).
- The "class 2 signal", like they like to call it, is nothing else than a very basic 50Hz/50% duty-cycle square wave.
- And last but not least, the car does not think at all.
This is how the key shows:
So, when you insert the key, the ignition lock cylinder will make contact with the resistor's pellet on your key and, through a couple of wires will connect your resistor to the input pins on the TDM. If the value of the resistance is the one expected by the TDM, then it will activate a relay that will enable the Blower Motor and will send that 50Hz signal to the PCM that will enable the injectors. It's as easy as this.
Now back to the problem.
If it is a security problem, then there are only 3 things involved that could go wrong:
- The key
- The ignition lock cylinder
- The TDM
Of course you don't know which one of the 3 is your trouble. There are 2 ways to go:
- Do some diagnostic and, if it is the key or the lock cylinder you won't need the circuit, but just a resistor.
- Don't do any diagnostic but spend a couple of hours to build the bypass circuit - it will solve all 3 problems forever.
Let's go to the first case before all, let's say you want to do some diagnostic.
Open the kick panel under the steering wheel. You will find an orange double-wire (or it could be a single wire containing 2 small white wires inside).
NOTE: You will also find bigger yellow wires, DO NOT CUT THOSE, since they are part of the Airbag system and, if you get the Airbag inflating by mistake, you could be seriously injured.
Now, simply use a voltmeter (one that measure ohms - 10 bucks at Wal-Mart) to measure the resistance in your key between the 2 terminals of the pellet. Then buy a resistor about the same value you read (+/- 10%). Cut the orange wire close to the lock cylinder, strip back the insulation on the opposite side of the cylinder and sold your resistor to them.
This way you are bypassing both the key and the lock cylinder; the TDM will always see the right value of resistance no matter what the key will be.
Now turn the key and see if the engine starts.
- If it starts ok then you can leave it like this, but be aware that now your car is no more protected and anyone can start it with just a simple key copied from yours. At least you can go home now.
- If it doesn't start, or you want more security after you get home, then just build the bypass circuit in 2 hours, install it in 1 and you're done. Forever.
First of all you need to find the TDM in your car. It's a black box about 1"x3"x6" and it's usually *not* buried deep in the dashboard like they love to say. It is usually easy to access behind the glove box or the kick panel under the steering wheel. You won't even need a picture; it can be spotted right away.
In my '95 LeSabre was well visible behind the glove box.
When you see the TDM and you know where it is, then just go buy the components and prepare yourself for a 2-3 hrs soldering work.
The components you need:
- IC1 : LM7812 Voltage Regulator
- IC2 : 555 Timer - LM555CNB or equivalent
- C1,C2 : 0.1uF ceramic capacitors
- C3: 1uF electrolytic capacitor
- R1: 3.9K 1/2 watt resistor
- R2: 10K 1/2 watt resistor
- R3: 22K multi-turn linear trimpot
- PB: Prototyping Board 3.6" x 1.8"
- ICS: 8pin IC socket
All of the above components can be easily found in any Radio Shack - and this is very important since they are open on Sunday :-)
The bypass circuit:http://newrockies.ca/vatsbypass/
After you build the circuit on your proto board, before plugging in the 555 in its socket and before going any further with the installation, you need to regulate the trimpot R3 to the right value. To do so, point your voltmeter between pin 6 and 7 of the 555 socket and turn the trimpot till you measure a resistance of 13.5K. Then plug in the 555 in the socket. This way the circuit will be generating a 50Hz signal.
Installing the bypass circuit:
The wiring diagram of the TDM connector is the following:
--------------------------------------------------
A1 ORN constant hot
A2 PNK hot in run, bulb test, or park
A3 DK BLU fuel enable signal (to pcm)
A4 YEL/BLK starter enable relay control
A5 GRY security indicator enable control
A6
A7
A8
--------------------------------------------------
B1
B2
B3
B4
B5 BLK ground
B6
B7 PPL/WHT ignition pellet return
B8 WHT/BLK ignition pellet feed
--------------------------------------------------
Some other pins could be also connected, but you don't need to care about them.
Now, unplug the connector from the TDM and carefully cut A2, A3, A4 and B5 close to the connector; then strip back the insulation on all 4.
Connect the pink wire (that was on A2) to T1 on your circuit; then the dark blue wire (former A3) to your output T3, and finally the other 2 wires together to T2.
Done. Turn on the key and the engine will start right away and never stop anymore.
If it doesn't, that could mean that your security system is a PASSKey I and need a 30Hz signal instead of a 50Hz one. All you have to do in this case is to unplug your circuit, unplug the 555 from it, point your voltmeter again on pin 6 and 7 of the 555 socket and this time turn the trimmer till you measure 22.5K.
Plug everything back again, pray and turn the key.
NOTE: For security concerns, to connect the bypass as instructed above you can use a pair of connectors. This way you can put your circuit in a nice box inside your glove box and unplug it and bring it with you whenever you feel your car is not in a safe place.
VATS/PASSKey I/II bypass on GM cars
Well, I did not even have a clear idea of what a VATS system was and I did not care at all about it until I found myself stuck on a Wal-Mart parking on a Saturday morning. My 95 Buick LeSabre would just crank, the engine would start for 1 second and then die.
I spent 50 bucks for towing the car to a mechanic, then another 100 bucks for diagnostic and the problem came out to be a fault in the security system. At this point, the dealer is the only one that could have it fixed... For about 1000CAD!
I did not really mean to spend this money when the problem was just security. I mean, the car itself was running spectacular; never had problems and I love it.
So I went google'ing and researching for the whole day and I discovered some funny things that explain a lot, but I won't comment on the funny side, will just stick on the solution that saved me all the money.
I wrote this page for 2 reasons:
1) A nightmare weekend for me. I don't want it to be the same for someone else.
2) I hate hidden things and people that make money out of them.
This document apply to the following cars:
Pontiac
1994-1996 Grand Prix
1992-1999 Bonneville
1993-2002 Firebird/Trans Am/Firehawk
Buick
1994-1996 Regal
1992-1999 LeSabre
1991-1996 Park Avenue
1991-1996 Roadmaster
Oldsmobile
1994-1997 Cutlass Supreme
1992-1999 Eighty Eight/LSS/Ninety Eight/Regency
1991-1996 Custom Cruiser Wagon
Chevrolet
1995-1999 Monte Carlo
1995-2001 Lumina
1993-2002 Camaro
1986(?)-1996 Corvette (C4)
Cadillac
1991-1996 Fleetwood
1992-1997(?) Seville/STS/DeVille
Any other GM Vehicles with the VATS or PASSKey I/II system
If you have your car diagnosed with "security system problems" and you are suggested to go to a dealer, then do NOT.
It is most probably a "security problem" when everything runs just fine and then suddenly one of the following happens:
- Engine won't start, won't even crank
- Engine would crank, start for 1sec and then die
- "security" light will flash and one of the above happens
This is a typical problem and would cost you about 1000 bucks if you go to a dealer, but can be easily solved with 8 bucks. You just need to buy some very few basic electronic components that you can even find at Radio Shack and then make a circuit that even kids can do at home. Installation is even easier.
How the VATS/PASSkey system works:
First, I would suggest you asking the question to a dealer, so you can have a lot of fun.
There are a lot of variants in the answers they could give you. One that I heard is that there is a microchip in the key that exchange information with the "whole system" and then only after this information is validated the system will send a "class 2" signal to the PCM to enable the injectors, otherwise everything will be shut off cause the car thinks it's being stolen.
I would like to say the very same in easy English words:
- That thing in the key is just a resistor, not a microchip at all; it has no brain, just a value that you can easily measure.
- The "whole system" is just a black box 6" wide and it's called the TDM (Theft Deterrent Module).
- The "class 2 signal", like they like to call it, is nothing else than a very basic 50Hz/50% duty-cycle square wave.
- And last but not least, the car does not think at all.
This is how the key shows:
So, when you insert the key, the ignition lock cylinder will make contact with the resistor's pellet on your key and, through a couple of wires will connect your resistor to the input pins on the TDM. If the value of the resistance is the one expected by the TDM, then it will activate a relay that will enable the Blower Motor and will send that 50Hz signal to the PCM that will enable the injectors. It's as easy as this.
Now back to the problem.
If it is a security problem, then there are only 3 things involved that could go wrong:
- The key
- The ignition lock cylinder
- The TDM
Of course you don't know which one of the 3 is your trouble. There are 2 ways to go:
- Do some diagnostic and, if it is the key or the lock cylinder you won't need the circuit, but just a resistor.
- Don't do any diagnostic but spend a couple of hours to build the bypass circuit - it will solve all 3 problems forever.
Let's go to the first case before all, let's say you want to do some diagnostic.
Open the kick panel under the steering wheel. You will find an orange double-wire (or it could be a single wire containing 2 small white wires inside).
NOTE: You will also find bigger yellow wires, DO NOT CUT THOSE, since they are part of the Airbag system and, if you get the Airbag inflating by mistake, you could be seriously injured.
Now, simply use a voltmeter (one that measure ohms - 10 bucks at Wal-Mart) to measure the resistance in your key between the 2 terminals of the pellet. Then buy a resistor about the same value you read (+/- 10%). Cut the orange wire close to the lock cylinder, strip back the insulation on the opposite side of the cylinder and sold your resistor to them.
This way you are bypassing both the key and the lock cylinder; the TDM will always see the right value of resistance no matter what the key will be.
Now turn the key and see if the engine starts.
- If it starts ok then you can leave it like this, but be aware that now your car is no more protected and anyone can start it with just a simple key copied from yours. At least you can go home now.
- If it doesn't start, or you want more security after you get home, then just build the bypass circuit in 2 hours, install it in 1 and you're done. Forever.
First of all you need to find the TDM in your car. It's a black box about 1"x3"x6" and it's usually *not* buried deep in the dashboard like they love to say. It is usually easy to access behind the glove box or the kick panel under the steering wheel. You won't even need a picture; it can be spotted right away.
In my '95 LeSabre was well visible behind the glove box.
When you see the TDM and you know where it is, then just go buy the components and prepare yourself for a 2-3 hrs soldering work.
The components you need:
- IC1 : LM7812 Voltage Regulator
- IC2 : 555 Timer - LM555CNB or equivalent
- C1,C2 : 0.1uF ceramic capacitors
- C3: 1uF electrolytic capacitor
- R1: 3.9K 1/2 watt resistor
- R2: 10K 1/2 watt resistor
- R3: 22K multi-turn linear trimpot
- PB: Prototyping Board 3.6" x 1.8"
- ICS: 8pin IC socket
All of the above components can be easily found in any Radio Shack - and this is very important since they are open on Sunday :-)
The bypass circuit:http://newrockies.ca/vatsbypass/
After you build the circuit on your proto board, before plugging in the 555 in its socket and before going any further with the installation, you need to regulate the trimpot R3 to the right value. To do so, point your voltmeter between pin 6 and 7 of the 555 socket and turn the trimpot till you measure a resistance of 13.5K. Then plug in the 555 in the socket. This way the circuit will be generating a 50Hz signal.
Installing the bypass circuit:
The wiring diagram of the TDM connector is the following:
--------------------------------------------------
A1 ORN constant hot
A2 PNK hot in run, bulb test, or park
A3 DK BLU fuel enable signal (to pcm)
A4 YEL/BLK starter enable relay control
A5 GRY security indicator enable control
A6
A7
A8
--------------------------------------------------
B1
B2
B3
B4
B5 BLK ground
B6
B7 PPL/WHT ignition pellet return
B8 WHT/BLK ignition pellet feed
--------------------------------------------------
Some other pins could be also connected, but you don't need to care about them.
Now, unplug the connector from the TDM and carefully cut A2, A3, A4 and B5 close to the connector; then strip back the insulation on all 4.
Connect the pink wire (that was on A2) to T1 on your circuit; then the dark blue wire (former A3) to your output T3, and finally the other 2 wires together to T2.
Done. Turn on the key and the engine will start right away and never stop anymore.
If it doesn't, that could mean that your security system is a PASSKey I and need a 30Hz signal instead of a 50Hz one. All you have to do in this case is to unplug your circuit, unplug the 555 from it, point your voltmeter again on pin 6 and 7 of the 555 socket and this time turn the trimmer till you measure 22.5K.
Plug everything back again, pray and turn the key.
NOTE: For security concerns, to connect the bypass as instructed above you can use a pair of connectors. This way you can put your circuit in a nice box inside your glove box and unplug it and bring it with you whenever you feel your car is not in a safe place.
11-02-2007, 11:17 PM
#53
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
There are a lot of variants in the answers they could give you. One that I heard is that there is a microchip in the key that exchange information with the "whole system" and then only after this information is validated the system will send a "class 2" signal to the PCM to enable the injectors, otherwise everything will be shut off cause the car thinks it's being stolen.
I would like to say the very same in easy English words:
- That thing in the key is just a resistor, not a microchip at all; it has no brain, just a value that you can easily measure.
- The "whole system" is just a black box 6" wide and it's called the TDM (Theft Deterrent Module).
- The "class 2 signal", like they like to call it, is nothing else than a very basic 50Hz/50% duty-cycle square wave.
- And last but not least, the car does not think at all.
This sounds like the dealer misunderstood the question or which system you had. The description that you got from them is correct for a passkey III system.
Not saying that you have anything wrong in your description other than most of the OBD II cars in your list mostly anything after '96 uses class 2 communication for the enable of the injectors.
I don't work at a dealer but have dealt with them quite often and most service writers don't know much about cars and the difference between the systems on different cars.
The most common problem VATS is the wires connecting to the lock cylinder brake from the twisting motion. Alot of shops don't know much about it and think that the dealer has to fix it or just replace everything in the system.
Mike
I would like to say the very same in easy English words:
- That thing in the key is just a resistor, not a microchip at all; it has no brain, just a value that you can easily measure.
- The "whole system" is just a black box 6" wide and it's called the TDM (Theft Deterrent Module).
- The "class 2 signal", like they like to call it, is nothing else than a very basic 50Hz/50% duty-cycle square wave.
- And last but not least, the car does not think at all.
This sounds like the dealer misunderstood the question or which system you had. The description that you got from them is correct for a passkey III system.
Not saying that you have anything wrong in your description other than most of the OBD II cars in your list mostly anything after '96 uses class 2 communication for the enable of the injectors.
I don't work at a dealer but have dealt with them quite often and most service writers don't know much about cars and the difference between the systems on different cars.
The most common problem VATS is the wires connecting to the lock cylinder brake from the twisting motion. Alot of shops don't know much about it and think that the dealer has to fix it or just replace everything in the system.
Mike
05-16-2008, 06:12 PM
#54
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
WHY IS CUTTING BEHIND THE CONNECTOR A PROBLEM??? CAN SOMEONE PLEASE EXPLAIN THIS??? IT WAS ASKED EARLIER BUT NEVER ADDRESSED! THANKS.
p.s. I know it's old, but I'm going through this starting problem and did a search on the subjects at hand! Also before it's asked I've changed the ignition control module and coil already and then realized it could be the VATS sys.
p.s. I know it's old, but I'm going through this starting problem and did a search on the subjects at hand! Also before it's asked I've changed the ignition control module and coil already and then realized it could be the VATS sys.
01-27-2011, 01:41 AM
#55
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
the wires i'm talking about are the 2 wires coming out of the ign tumbler[where the key goes]. most of the time they go into a orange sleev, through the colum, after the colum they should go into a conector. you have to splice cut the wires between the tumbler and that conector to put the resisters in.[ DON'T CUT THEM BEHIND THAT CONECTOR!!].
also, once you try a resistor, if it don't work shut the ign off and wait 5min before you try the next. if you try to many to quickly i heard the ecm will lock and none of the resistors will work for an hour.[don't know if this is true or not, but i didn't chance it]
hope this helps
also, once you try a resistor, if it don't work shut the ign off and wait 5min before you try the next. if you try to many to quickly i heard the ecm will lock and none of the resistors will work for an hour.[don't know if this is true or not, but i didn't chance it]
hope this helps
Why not behind the connector towards the car?
i just got a multimeter and made 15 different resitors close to the 15 values i have. I think i screwed it up. I set the multi meter to 2000 and I was getting negative readings when hooked them to the car. I then set the muti meter to 2000K and tried a value on that setting. The security light went of for a minute or two unil i went to test the wires(I am not sure when it came back on i was not paying atttention) But this is progress. Now i am going to make the values of resistors using 2000K setting.
i just got a multimeter and made 15 different resitors close to the 15 values i have. I think i screwed it up. I set the multi meter to 2000 and I was getting negative readings when hooked them to the car. I then set the muti meter to 2000K and tried a value on that setting. The security light went of for a minute or two unil i went to test the wires(I am not sure when it came back on i was not paying atttention) But this is progress. Now i am going to make the values of resistors using 2000K setting.
I cut that connector out of the loop and wired a Potentiometer in to the correct resistance. It seems to work fine, why would you have to leave that connector?
05-08-2011, 12:27 PM
#56
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
PLEASE HELP ME I HAVE A LT1 OUT OF A 94 BUICK RM/ AND COMPLETE WIRING HARNESS ..I INSTALLED THE LT1 AND DIDNT KNO ABOUT THE VATS PROGRAM
IT WILL START BUT AFTER A FEW SECONDS WILL SHUT OFF CAN YU GUYS PLEASE HELP ME I NEED TO KNO HOW TO DISABLE THE VATS FROM THE BULK CONNECTORS OR 83z28camaro PLEASE TELL MORE ABOUT THE CHIP TO DISABLE THE VATS
05-08-2011, 12:42 PM
#57
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
IT WILL START BUT AFTER A FEW SECONDS WILL SHUT OFF .
That is not a V.A.T.S. problem you are having.
If the computer doesn't sense the propper resistance from the key chip,the computer shuts down the starter solenoid relay and wont let the injectors fire.
The motor will not turn over or start if the vats aint happy.
Also, the required resistance must only be present in the START position. It IS NOT REQUIRED in the RUN position.
I'm currently having the same issue with my 91 rs- 3.1. It starts and runs for a couple secs then dies. Can't give it ANY fuel or it dies.
Hope this helps narrow your search.
That is not a V.A.T.S. problem you are having.
If the computer doesn't sense the propper resistance from the key chip,the computer shuts down the starter solenoid relay and wont let the injectors fire.
The motor will not turn over or start if the vats aint happy.
Also, the required resistance must only be present in the START position. It IS NOT REQUIRED in the RUN position.
I'm currently having the same issue with my 91 rs- 3.1. It starts and runs for a couple secs then dies. Can't give it ANY fuel or it dies.
Hope this helps narrow your search.
Last edited by pjammer; 05-08-2011 at 01:07 PM.
05-08-2011, 12:54 PM
#58
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
all i did was have my dealer tell me my key #. (1-15)
Downloaded a frequency list for the keys.
went to radioshak and got a pack of resisters that gave me the total resistance i needed.
Cut the 2 wires from the key cylinder and unplugged the other end.
Soldered 2 resisters together and soldered them inline with the 2 cut ends.
SHRINK WRAP Resisters and plug wires back in.
works great.
I personaly added a small toggle in the circuit to prevent theft.
Just check the resistance, of the entire circuit, with a meter.
If you're within your key range, you're golden.
b-4 i did this my car wouldn't even turn over.
To 2bl check, just unplug the yellow connecter @ the base of the steering column.(2 yellow wires).
If your car does nothing, it's NOT yer vats.
Downloaded a frequency list for the keys.
went to radioshak and got a pack of resisters that gave me the total resistance i needed.
Cut the 2 wires from the key cylinder and unplugged the other end.
Soldered 2 resisters together and soldered them inline with the 2 cut ends.
SHRINK WRAP Resisters and plug wires back in.
works great.
I personaly added a small toggle in the circuit to prevent theft.
Just check the resistance, of the entire circuit, with a meter.
If you're within your key range, you're golden.
b-4 i did this my car wouldn't even turn over.
To 2bl check, just unplug the yellow connecter @ the base of the steering column.(2 yellow wires).
If your car does nothing, it's NOT yer vats.
Last edited by pjammer; 05-08-2011 at 01:18 PM.
05-08-2011, 10:41 PM
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
[quote=pjammer;4915094]That is not a V.A.T.S. problem you are having.
If the computer doesn't sense the propper resistance from the key chip,the computer shuts down the starter solenoid relay and wont let the injectors fire.
The motor will not turn over or start if the vats aint happy.
but i believe it is my vats because i have the fuel pump ran to a relay then to a switch and the starter is ran to a push button ....... after ni let the fuel pump prime the fuel rails the car will start and after maybe 6 seconds the motor cuts off
If the computer doesn't sense the propper resistance from the key chip,the computer shuts down the starter solenoid relay and wont let the injectors fire.
The motor will not turn over or start if the vats aint happy.
but i believe it is my vats because i have the fuel pump ran to a relay then to a switch and the starter is ran to a push button ....... after ni let the fuel pump prime the fuel rails the car will start and after maybe 6 seconds the motor cuts off
05-08-2011, 10:47 PM
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
and also those wires that would be connected to the ignition {two white going into purple and white } are not there because this is a lt1 swap someone please help me lol
05-08-2011, 10:57 PM
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Engine: 3.1 Lt V-6
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: yes
Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
When I bought the steering column, I got the vats module and the key for it. I just can not find the vats module in my firebird. I have the column in and the key turns but the security light stays on and nothing happens when you turn the key. I thought I heard the Vats is on the firewall behind the defroster. If that is true, then I would have to drop the entire dash to get at it and cahnge the module. I just need to know for sure so I dont do a whole lot of work for nothing. Thanks for the replies
Screwed to the front of the plastic defroster housing.
91 Camaro rs
05-08-2011, 11:22 PM
#62
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Car: 1 day...a 1990 Rs...
Engine: 3.1 Lt V-6
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: yes
Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
but i believe it is my vats because i have the fuel pump ran to a relay then to a switch and the starter is ran to a push button ....... after ni let the fuel pump prime the fuel rails the car will start and after maybe 6 seconds the motor cuts off[/quote]
Before i fooled my system, my car wouldn't turn over or start. If i jumped the starter relay, it would turn over but wouldn't fire.The injectors wouldn't pulse and allow fuel in.If i used starter fluid it would start and run. (crappy but run).
If your injectors pulse at all, it shouldn't be vats.
I'm currently having the same prob. Starts, runs for a few moments and dies. If i unplug my bypass I get nothing. It's not my vats.
I read in here that the oil pressure switch tells the computer to do certain things when it reads 5lbs of pressure. I went out and looked and mine's leaking oil. Autozone doesn't stock it. I'll let u know if it works when i get 1. Good luck.
Before i fooled my system, my car wouldn't turn over or start. If i jumped the starter relay, it would turn over but wouldn't fire.The injectors wouldn't pulse and allow fuel in.If i used starter fluid it would start and run. (crappy but run).
If your injectors pulse at all, it shouldn't be vats.
I'm currently having the same prob. Starts, runs for a few moments and dies. If i unplug my bypass I get nothing. It's not my vats.
I read in here that the oil pressure switch tells the computer to do certain things when it reads 5lbs of pressure. I went out and looked and mine's leaking oil. Autozone doesn't stock it. I'll let u know if it works when i get 1. Good luck.
05-09-2011, 09:55 AM
#63
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
ok thanks im actually out here not trying to figure what is goin on so if anything new comes up ill let yu kno but all im hearing is the vats but i will check that {ops} vas well
05-09-2011, 02:52 PM
#64
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Car: '01 GMC Sierra
Engine: 5.3L
Transmission: 4L60e
Axle/Gears: 3.73 eaton locker
Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
If you did not have the PCM reflashed to disable the VAT's it is a VAT's problem. The only way I can disable the VAT's for you is for you to send me your PCM. The chip is not removable on the 94 PCM. Mike
05-09-2011, 02:54 PM
#65
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Car: '01 GMC Sierra
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
Also the oil pressure switch does not connect to the ecm in the 3.1 or the pcm in the lt1. It will act as a backup power source for the fuel pump in the event of a failed fuel pump relay. Mike
05-09-2011, 06:10 PM
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
ok THANKS SO MUCH MR MIKE....PLEASE EMAIL ME your ADDERSS AND MORE INFO ABOUT ME SENDING YU THE PCM as far as price if yu plan on charging me sharnreed@yahoo.com and again thanks so much
05-12-2011, 01:13 PM
#68
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Car: 1 day...a 1990 Rs...
Engine: 3.1 Lt V-6
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: yes
Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
in the 3.1, what shuts down the motor if the oil pressure drops? If a low reading @ the OPS doesn't do it, do you know what does. thanx.
05-12-2011, 02:47 PM
#69
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Car: '01 GMC Sierra
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
nothing will there is no shut down for low oil pressure.
05-22-2011, 12:16 PM
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Car: 1 day...a 1990 Rs...
Engine: 3.1 Lt V-6
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
I saw on another thread that a code #53 means starter relay grounded but no signal from the VATS module. How do you check for a signal? I could use a better wiring diagram.
05-23-2011, 02:23 PM
#72
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Car: '01 GMC Sierra
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Axle/Gears: 3.73 eaton locker
Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
use a o-scope to check the signal. It will be a dark blue wire in the c207 connector by the ECM.
11-23-2014, 12:00 PM
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
i did a swap from 94 camaro to 96 v6 truck the vats is working great unfortunately for me so i have one wir from pcm drk blue that controls the security fuel cut off correct so how can i use this wire to bypass vats system or can i there has to be a way like i said every one talks about wires under dash well that isnt an option for me eny help would be great oh and the truck runs for 3 sec and shuts off can do it over and over just wont stay running
05-25-2016, 11:46 PM
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
07-21-2022, 02:59 PM
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
did you disconnect the dark blue wire from the vats module. The VATS system disables the injector so powering the fuel pump won't work. What ecm number do you have. I may be able to burn you a chip if I have one that will work in your car. pm me if you would like a chip burnt.
03-14-2023, 01:39 AM
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
HELLO SIR I NEED VATS DELETED ALSO OR IS THIS A DYI PROJECT ICAN MAYBE HANDLE I'M IN SOUTH CAROLINA.. LEXINGTON AREA THANKS IN ADVANCE CAR HAS BEEN DOWN SINCE 2019 THANKS..U KNOW HOW TO FIND RESISTANCE I HAVE NO KEYS
08-06-2023, 12:43 PM
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Re: vats is killing me! Please help me.
Hello 83z28camaro, My name is Sammy and I'm have the same problem with my VATS system. Can I send you my PCM so it can get flashed to cancel the VATS system to my 1992 Camaro RS V6 3.1 manual transmission. I bought it for my son and I started having problems with the starting of it so I've changed out the Starter, ignition switch and the ignition cylinder key switch and now the security light is on and it still doesn't want to start. My email is sammy.oroz@yahoo.com and my phone number is (575) 704-9827, please help me, I hate dealing with this problem already and just want me and my son to move on to the next issue lol, like Air Conditioning, then interior ect. ect. ect. lol. I have another camaro too, my daughters now, she"s taken an interest to my 3rd gens, its a 1987 IROCZ with a 5.7 TPI, Hope I don't have a VATS problem on that one. Can you please send me you address if you are willing to help me, I would be more than happy to pay for the help. I really would feel better about it. I can send payment however is most convenient to you. Thank you
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