Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

It's just a module and if you can add relays then you can add the module if you desire.

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f62/in...en-s10-414482/

DynoDave43

iTrader: (11)

Great thread. Would love to do this some day. The pace of my windows is almost glacial.

GCrites80s

I'm going to dip into the theoretical here, but isn't the main reason our motors are slow from the factory is for liability reasons? You know how the '80s were with nuisance lawsuits. I got my IROC in 1995 with 26k miles on it and one of the first things I noticed was that the windows were slow compared to '90s cars. Both my buddy's mom's 87 Firebird and this one guy with a 91 RS at school at the same time had slow windows. So the cars were a lot fresher than we see today. My driver's side motor went out in 2003 and the new one wasn't any faster.

On the other hand I had a 79 T/A in the late '90s and the windows went up really fast; much faster than today's cars. I'm sure they could have taken off a toddler's arm easy. And 4th gens go up at a "normal" speed. Also the 87 944 I drove from 2006 to early last year had slow windows. With all the '80s cars I speak of here and the 91 RS the windows were equally slow on both sides.

syc0path

I was looking at the diagram posted above ( http://s258.photobucket.com/user/bag...lee01.jpg.html ), as well as the description of the modifications necessary to make it work w/ a 2-wire motor.

It seems that the real improvement in window performance comes from a better connection to the battery. So I was thinking about where the stock wiring begins to lose voltage. Is is gradual all the way from the battery to the motors, or does it drop significantly at the fusebox, relay, and/or switches? I'm hoping its just at the fusebox -- if so, then we could bypass the fusebox by simply run new wire to the existing relay. Then we wouldn't have mess w/ the rest of the wiring. That's probably too optimistic, but checking voltage at the fusebox is pretty easy. So I'm gonna try it...

MoJoe

iTrader: (5)

The problem isn't the just voltage at the fusebox... Under little to no load, it should be the same as at the battery. The problem comes when there is an electrical load placed on the circuit, and current is flowing. As the current flows higher, the resistance of the wire absorbs more power, and then drops the voltage.

Put your meter on the fusebox, then take a reading while rolling the window up or down. FYI: Up will likely take more power and drop the voltage more.

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

Another thing to think about is how all of your accessories inside the vehicle are ultimately provided power via a 10 ga. red lead into your firewall fuse block that has a fusible link at the starter. So, if you were to upgrade the system to one with a remote junction to get it away from the exhaust heat, then upgrade to a 4-ga supply feed from the junction to your alternator, voltage drop would not be nearly as high. The best route IMO is to run a dedicated 8-ga power feed from a remote junction inside straight to your relay bank for your power windows this way you won't have any voltage loss to the window motors. I'm building a complete 4-door crew cab accessory harness (locks and windows) for a customer with express down and this is the route I'm taking at least with the power windows.

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

I just timed my express down window speed in my 80 Monte-2.2 seconds! I'm adding an express up circuit to my existing harness on it this weekend-my goal is 5 seconds to go down then back up-all in express mode! Here is my video link for the 1980 Monte Carlo project I started...

syc0path

Under load, I'm getting about 10-11V at the switch. That's only about .5V lower than at the fuse box, and really not that low overall. Even if I bypass the fuse box, that will only pick up 1V at the most. So... maybe I'll just live w/ it for another year and see how it does next summer. I'm not convinced that even doing the whole thing w/ new relays will make it that much faster.

Also, while I had the window switches out, I noticed they were dusty inside. If u look inside the switch, u can see how dust can cause increased resistance. I blew them out w/ the blow gun. And I lubed up the window tracks and whiskers w/ WD-40. Both of those steps seemed to help too.

**I measured these voltages w/ the car off.

Spaceboy1980

iTrader: (6)

How much are you getting at the motor, that is what is important. It may not be worth the hassle to you, to me it was, I enjoyed the project.

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

I'll check for you on that-if I remember right, on mine with vehicle running at 14.62 @ alt., I was 14.58 @ fusebox, 14.58 @ the switch and 14.52 @ the window motor. Keep in mind too that I did my 4ga.. charging system upgrade Ive eliminated virtually all interior and exterior voltage drop.

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

Just to revive my thread here from the dead, have a read at this thread:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...ws-better.html

The guy mentioned that the motor has 1 less gear reduction so it's faster. Now that makes simple sense, a motor that's simply capable of going faster lol.

Anyone have more details on this? I don't want to cut and splice or dick with my wiring in anyway, shape, or form. But a motor that simply can go faster seems like the best answer anyway.

Also, does anyone know the difference between P/N 19151479 and 12497971? The first is like 3x more expensive. Is it a much better quality? I've heard the cheap $30 ones don't last.