vorteciroc

Most of you are familiar with the Third Gen F-Body Fire-wall bulk-Head... The C100 connector.

However I have not seen as much information here on the C100 connector as i would like.

This is a photo of one of my Parts-cars. It is a 1986 Z-28 (LB9/ TH700R4). This is the driver side fire-wall where the C100 Connector is located.



This car still has all the original un-molested wiring in it... what can be seen here is the engine cooling fan relay, the engine ignition timing electronic spark control module and the engine vacuum sensor.

Below the bracket that holds these three items is the C100 Connector/ Bulk-Head. To better view, and/ or access the C100 Connector... Remove the bracket holding the cooling fan relay, ESC and vacuum sensor by removing two 10mm bolts.



Now the C100 Connector can be seen and accessed. The engine bay side of the C100 connector is held in place to the cabin side of the connector by one 1/4" bolt.

This is now a Photo of my 1987 IROC-Z28 clone show car...



Here the 1/4" bolt can be seen near the center of the connector body. Once the retaining bolt is removed the C100 connector halves will separate.



Now the C100 connector halves can separated...



The engine-bay side of the C100 connector.



What will been seen here is three different types of male terminals that should be covered in Di-electric grease. This grease from the 1980s may be hard and a real pain to remove... Pick up some new di-electric grease for later.



Here is a cabin side of the C100 connector. Again what will bee seen here is three different types of terminals and normally a fair amount of di-electric grease. This car has had the C100 connector apart a few times and does not have all the heavy grease that would be left from the factory. Your F-Body will most likely have much more grease/ more of a mess in the C100 connector.

The cabin side C100 connector is held in place to the fire-wall by two studs and 9mm nuts as shown in the photo above.

The C100 connector use three different types of Packard/ Delphi unsealed Metri-Pack terminals. Metri-pack 630 series, Metri-pack 480 series and Metri-pack 280 series.

This photo shows the C100 cabin side connector as you may know it from a GM shop manual...



Here is the same photo, showing where the different types of terminals are located...


Its not totally clear from the photo, however the red outlined terminal boxes are 630 series terminals. the blue outlined terminal boxes are 480 series terminals. the un-outlined terminal boxes are 280 series terminals, and the green outlined boxes do not accommodate a terminal of any kind.

The three different terminals are as such for circuits with different current ratings.

The 630 series terminals are for circuits with up to a continuous 46 Amps.

The 480 series terminals are for circuits with up to a continuous 42 Amps.

The 280 series terminals are for circuits with up to a continuous 30 Amps.

vorteciroc

Gm actually did a substantial job with the circuitry in these vehicles.

The 630 series terminals are used in circuits such as the starter motor and ignition switch.

The 480 series terminals are used in circuits such as head lamps and parking/ signal lamps and the fuse block. the terminals and GXL insulated wires in the circuits are considered over-kill which honestly is quite nice... New vehicles these days do not have such luxuries.

The 280 series terminals are for all other circuits that pass trough the C100 connector and are also considered to be over-kill since most circuits in this connector do not come near a continuous 30 amp load.

The three types of terminals can be seen here:



The photos do not due the terminals justice, however it should be clear enough to see how the heavier duty terminals are physically larger than a lighter duty terminal.

vorteciroc

Now i will continue on the the dis-assembly of the engine-bay side of the C100 connector.

Upon inspection of the body of the connector, several locking tabs will be seen.





Remove all the locking tabs on the larger two thirds of the connector body as shown.



Now the connector body cover can be removed from the connector to expose the back side of the terminals.



Place this cover aside an keep it for reassembly later.



Here the back of the connector body can be seen. This is the side of the connector where terminals can be removed or installed.



The C100 connector in this vehicle has been apart and modified by me prior to this thread. Your vehicle will have a few more wires/ terminals in this connector and have much more di-electric grease.

The di-electric grease can be a pain to remove after all this years. Pick up some Electrical terminal cleaner to break apart/ remove the grease. If removing, modifying or installing terminals/ wires of the C100 connector, you'll have to spray it with this stuff first...



Some people use a product called PB Blaster, however that is penetrating lubricant and can damage the plastic or body of the connector...

Now that the cover is off of the connector body, locate the secondary terminal position assurance lock (TPA). There will be two, one for the larger two thirds of the connector and one the the smaller third of the connector. The larger side will have a white TPA. The TPA can be removed with a small thin flat blade srewdriver as shown below...

vorteciroc

Now that the secondary terminal position assurance lock (TPA) has been removed, place it aside as it will be needed for re-assembly.



This process can be repeated on the smaller third of the connector now.

This is an example of the small thin flat blade screwdriver used...



Next, removal of the terminals from the connector body. To do so a Metri-pack pick must be inserted in to the connector body above the terminal it self. the terminal has a locking tab that must be depressed to remove the terminal.

This a Metri-pack 630, 480 and 280 terminal release tool (pick) made by Packard/ Delphi. Many aftermarket terminals tools can be found, however they ususally are very cheap/ poorly made and break easily... An OEM terminal tool is no more expensive than the aftermarket tools. They usually range from $10-$15 each... and can be purchased from any authorized Packard/ Delphi seller, contact me for info on sellers since I do not believe there is a sponsored seller on this site.

vorteciroc

Now to remove the terminals, insert the terminal release tool as shown below...





By inserting the terminal release tool in to the connector body above the terminals, the terminal locking tabs have been moved back and those two terminals are now free to come out of the connector through the back.

Pull very gently and out they come... as long as enough di-electric grease has been removed...



Many of you may be asking... why remove/ modify the C100 Connector? Well the first answer is... engine swaps/ harness swaps. Over the ten years of the the third gen cars, there were six different V8 engines available (LU5, LG4, L69, L03, LB9 and L98) all of which had minor changes to them over the years and can have different wiring harnesses.

Its not really worth mentioning, but there were also several different V6 and I4 engines available over the years and may have different C100 configurations as well.

There are only minor changes with the C100 connector/ wiring harness over the years, however they are not all "plug-and-play". Yes different C100 connector/ wiring harnesses will physically fit in to one another, however the terminals may not match up and will cause incomplete/ shorted circuits. This is where removing and changing the location of certain terminals in the C100 connector can come in handy.

Some of you may have a damaged or cut up C100 harness and wish to change out yours for another. Now if you can not find an exact C100 Harness to the one originally in your vehicle, you may be able to re-pin the connector.

I warn all of you though; over the years, many device connectors on the C100 harness have changed... such as the windshield wiper motor connectors and electrical relay connectors as well as many other devices. Depending on how a vehicle was equipped and/ or what year a vehicle was the device connectors may be different on any particular harness. Do not fear, these connectors can be replaced individually as well.

vorteciroc

Here is a better look at the engine-bay side of the C100 connector terminals after removal.



If the terminals that have been removed are going to be re-used/ re-pined, then these terminals must be cleaned. After cleaning and inspection, the terminal locking tab can be reset. Here are two cleaned terminals.





The terminal on the left is a 480 series and the terminal on the right is a 280 series. By removing the terminals, the terminal locking tab has been pushed down as shown in the next photo.



This terminal locking tab must be reset for proper installation of the terminal in to the terminal body. Use the Metri-pack release tool to properly reset the terminal locking tab as shown.



Old terminals can now be reinstalled in to the C100 connector body in the desired pin location or a new wire/ terminal can be installed. I will explain how to do this later on.

vorteciroc

This is half of the dis-assembly process. The cabin side C100 connector may now be removed. It is held to the fire wall with two studs and 9mm nuts.



Remove the two nuts as shown.



The cabin side of the C100 connector will also have to locking clips. One located at the top center of the connector body and one at the bottom center of the connector body. Push the connector body through the fire-wall but be careful not to lose the locking clips.

vorteciroc

Now that the cabin side of the C100 connector has been removed, it will need to be accessed from under the driver side of the dashboard. If you vehicle was equipped with Hush panels like mine, they will have to be removed.

Once under the dash, the C100 connector can be located. It will hang down near the brake/ clutch pedals.



Just like the engine bay side of the C100 connector, there are locking tabs all around the connector body to remove the back cover from the connector.





Once the four connector body locking tabs have been removed, the cover will come off as shown below.



This side of the C100 connector should not be packed with di-electric grease from the factory and will keep your hands nice and clean for a change.

Here the the connector face again.



To be continued...

smeds

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!!!!

I have been working on a problem which I traced back to the C100 connector, your step by step explaination helped alot, I will definately be buying the removal tool and some new clip to connect the wiring thru both the male and female connectors.

Here is a great link: http://crimpsupply.com/packard-delph...ckard_type=376

check it out.

smeds

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Great info on depinning the C100. Ive done quite a bit of research on finding each C100 pinout per year. Being able to repin them will speed the process signifigantly

GM Man

Great info! Thanks for posting this up!!!

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Wow thanks for this write up as I am trying to use my 89 interior c100 and a 85 engine side one as Im goin carb in my 89. Hey pocket do you have the C100 diagrams for an 85 Z28 and a 89 Iroc which I can compare

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...formation.html

rock861261

what are the part numbers for the terminals?

darkhorse91

seriously this needs to be a sticky. i've spent 2 weeks looking for info on separating this connector. I had an instructor pulling the clips on the side saying that should release it and another one told me to hit it with a blow dryer then pull it apart. neither one mentioned any bolt going through the middle. Identifix, alldata pro, and mitchell pro all have the c100 connector hidden as to not help bypass the VATS. the only way I was able to find the actual location of this was to start looking into vats then you can find the connector in a diagram for the vats module but it doesn't help with disconnecting it at all.

blackbeauty

I think this is a good question that needs an answer. Anyone know?

All I can tell is that it relates to the gauge of the wire being used...

mwfrels

Go to the following link and download the whole catalog. I believe the Metri-Pack Series Junction Systems Unsealed Terminals on pages 138 and 139 are the terminals needed. The rest of the catalog is useful for researching terminals and bodies for other connectors as well.

http://connectors.delphi.com/DCSGDMC...adCatalog.aspx

Mike

rock861261

broken link =(

mwfrels

Strange! Sometimes I get a 404 error and sometime not. Try this instead:

http://delphi.com/pdf/contact/brochu...balCatalog.pdf

Sorry, Mike

mrrman

marked for more great info

blackbeauty

Have located the appropriate pages in the catalog, thank you for that. But what gauge wire are used on our cars on the C100 connector? This seems important so that the correct part number can be ordered for the appropriate series terminal.

mwfrels

The gauge used depends on the individual circuit's power handling. In the Helm's manual each circuit is marked with the color and size of the wire. In some circuits there will be a different color AND a different gauge on some segments of a run that has multiple connection points. Good thing about the Helm's is that the circuits are marked with the metric size of the wire so you can directly identify which terminal will be needed where it passes through the C100.

Mike

l_dis_travlr

A very thorough treatise on the subject, but let me add my

IMHO, the black gooey stuff is probably more tar-like than dielectric
grease. It certainly responds to soaking in petro-chemical solvents
like paint-thinner & gasoline. As for resealing when re-assembling,
di-electric grease, or a judicious application of Lowe's/HomeDepot
roofing sealant could be just as effective.

And most reasonably sized GM parts counters have the connectors
available, if you know the part number, or can bring a sample to match.
However, GM prices these as single pieces, they're very proud of.
Again, pick your poison or the least painful choice.

And ALWAYs mark the wires very carefully when disassembling.

DiabloWS6

iTrader: (8)

this is great i have a 1986 trans-am that was 5.0 with factory digital gauges and swaped the engine for a 1989 350 L98 TPI with matching harness and ECM i have to repin also and this post is worth so much info i give you props for doing this and taking the time to do it step by step and in detail....that being said im still having trouble i know pocket has helped out and dyno don but if any of you guys read this and could lend a hand look for my post titled bulkhead repin i would appreciate it if anyone could lend a hand

Georgiaboy6985

this post would help a lot if the pictures actually showed up

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=19

look at the bottom of the page !

Brett1957

good stuff, old post but still very relevant!

FRMULA88

excellent reference now I know which metri-pack terminals i need.

mwfrels

Too bad the pic links are dead. Activity by the OP seems to have stopped back in 2010.

M

FRMULA88

LOL !

I stopped posting for few years myself, it happens.

I bought a crimping tool to do this right, and fittings from Packard.

I need to replace one damaged terrminal but I will have enough to re-pin the entire engine harness connector if I want to. plus it's nice to have spare parts..

smokefan

wonder what happened to the OP. Hes listed from the same city im from. Would love to see some pics and pick his brain on a few things

vorteciroc

The original pictures I posted years ago have been found in an old computer of mine that i'm striping and scraping... If someone has the desire to post them in a new thread or add to this original; I will e-mail the photos...

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

If you click manage attachments under the reply button, it will load them directly to the forum and they will stay up forever

vorteciroc

Anyone interested in re-posting the photos I have for me from e-mail?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Sure
pocket_demon00@yahoo.com

vorteciroc

Thank you, I'm working on getting the photos e-mailed to you.

Rabble

Pocket, did you ever get the pictures? They would be quite helpful seeing as I am trying to make my own harness for the engine bay. Thanks

hotro1988

The Delphi drawings can be found at the following links under the documents tab, and they are all still available through Mouser.
http://catalog.delphi.com/connectors...in&update=main

http://catalog.delphi.com/connectors...in&update=main

http://catalog.delphi.com/connectors...in&update=main

hotro1988

I forgot to add the terminal options listing for the connector.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

No, but the PN listed should get the connector body. The three terminal sizes are 280, 480 and 630 unsealed male in 12 and 18ga sizes

Curious if 12015513 is the mysterious cover Ive been searching so long for...

CHCKLS

Did the photos ever get re-posted anywhere on the site?

Thanks

AdarianZ28/IROC

Pocket I am not doing a LT/LS conversion in my 89 and a majority of my pigtails are unsealed. Would I have to use two wires on some of my pigtails or or just feed one wire and connect it to the pigtail I need. Carbureted 400SBC in my car. I prefer unsealed to sealed because of ease to replace if pigtails melt and cost effective to replace.

Dirocz

Does anyone know if the pinout is the same on a 88 iroc z 5.7 as it is on a 88 rs 2.8??
can I just plug in the engine side of the 5.7 into the cabin side of the 2.8?
Sorry if this has been answered. I couldn't find it after two days of searching.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Should be the same, but you can start looking here
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=44

Dholland17

I know this is old but I need the pictures desperately. Can anyone send them? Thanks!!

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Did you look at the Austin third gen link ?
or buy helm manual

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Here's a link to most Thirdgen F-Body C100 diagrams :

https://berlinetta.info/C100.htm

Dholland17

Thanks but I need the pic to remove a pin. My drivers front light blue turn signal wire is not getting power but I get power on the cabin side at the c100 so need pull it and troubleshoot why. I cleaned most of the black gunk off of it already. I read there is a pin that gets pulled to remove these? Where is that? thanks!

FRMULA88

Probe the firewall side of the harnees to see if you have power to the turn signal wire first. You could have a broken wire and did you check the turn signal light bulb before getting carried away?

There is no pin, it is a 10MM or smaller bolt on the firewall side that affixes the harness ends to the C100 bulkhead fitting. Once you loosen this bolt the harnesses can be removed.

Replacing the harness pins is straight forward; you need a small precision screw driver or o-ring pick to push the connector out of the fitting.
Replace the damaged metri-pack connector with the correct size and re-insert into the fitting.

When you re-assemble DO NOT over tighten the bolt. the mating part is a captured nut in the plastic fitting you don't want to strip the nut from the plastic... don't ask how I know.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

There's a little more to removing the pins from C100. There's a terminal position assurance 'comb' that has to be pried out before unlocking the pin's keeper. Cant miss the comb, it's white plastic visible on one or more sides of the connector once it's disconnected.