Battery Drain *Need some real help please*
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: League City, TX
Posts: 720
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 90 Formula -- tot resto in progress
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4 w/ 2500 stall, by Owen @ ARD
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi disc
Re: Battery Drain *Need some real help please*
First, Welcome.
There's a lot of very talented people, and almost as many gas-bags that
hang out here. One can usually find a solution to most problems.
Second, spend a bit more time on your user info. You'll be surprised
how useful things like vehicle, year, make, & model can be.
Looking in my service manual (90 Formula), the ARC fuse does in fact
power (& only) the Radio Receiver. In other vehicles, I've traced a power
drain to a stereo unit failure. So for an aftermarket unit, that can't be
ruled out.
Test lights can be useful, up to a point. Indicating current flow at the
battery, won't help isolate where specifically a failure is occuring, and
some models have a continual but miniscule current draw.
If your "voltmeter" isn't actually a multi-meter, try acquiring one.
I think decent digital units are available in the $30-$40 dollay range.
Then try measuring the current across each fuse connection in the fuse
block. (Remove the fuse, then contact the meter probes into the fuse
block pins.) Hopefully, this will help you isolate the problem circuit,
or device.
Good luck.
There's a lot of very talented people, and almost as many gas-bags that
hang out here. One can usually find a solution to most problems.
Second, spend a bit more time on your user info. You'll be surprised
how useful things like vehicle, year, make, & model can be.
Looking in my service manual (90 Formula), the ARC fuse does in fact
power (& only) the Radio Receiver. In other vehicles, I've traced a power
drain to a stereo unit failure. So for an aftermarket unit, that can't be
ruled out.
Test lights can be useful, up to a point. Indicating current flow at the
battery, won't help isolate where specifically a failure is occuring, and
some models have a continual but miniscule current draw.
If your "voltmeter" isn't actually a multi-meter, try acquiring one.
I think decent digital units are available in the $30-$40 dollay range.
Then try measuring the current across each fuse connection in the fuse
block. (Remove the fuse, then contact the meter probes into the fuse
block pins.) Hopefully, this will help you isolate the problem circuit,
or device.
Good luck.
#3
Re: Battery Drain *Need some real help please*
just a couple of off the wall checks. i had a Bonneville once that i got for 100 bucks because it would not hold a charge. turns out the O2 sensor wire had come in contact with the manifold and kept killing the battery. also my brother had a blazer that had a bad wire in the under hood light. i am not sure if this will help but it was two things i would have never thought to check. good luck.
#4
Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Gold Bar, WA
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 83 Z28, 85 Burb
Engine: 305 Carbureted
Transmission: 5 Speed
Re: Battery Drain *Need some real help please*
IIRC to check for a drain, you disconnect the negative cable and hook up a test light between the cable and the terminal and then pull fuses...at least that's what I remember reading a while back. The radio will indicate a drain because of the memory for your presets and stuff, but it shouldn't be big enough to drain the battery quickly. On my 83 chevy truck, the clock in the dash would drain my batteries dead over a couple months if I didn't start the truck regularly.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Alabama
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Battery Drain *Need some real help please*
First, Welcome.
There's a lot of very talented people, and almost as many gas-bags that
hang out here. One can usually find a solution to most problems.
Second, spend a bit more time on your user info. You'll be surprised
how useful things like vehicle, year, make, & model can be.
Looking in my service manual (90 Formula), the ARC fuse does in fact
power (& only) the Radio Receiver. In other vehicles, I've traced a power
drain to a stereo unit failure. So for an aftermarket unit, that can't be
ruled out.
Test lights can be useful, up to a point. Indicating current flow at the
battery, won't help isolate where specifically a failure is occuring, and
some models have a continual but miniscule current draw.
If your "voltmeter" isn't actually a multi-meter, try acquiring one.
I think decent digital units are available in the $30-$40 dollay range.
Then try measuring the current across each fuse connection in the fuse
block. (Remove the fuse, then contact the meter probes into the fuse
block pins.) Hopefully, this will help you isolate the problem circuit,
or device.
Good luck.
There's a lot of very talented people, and almost as many gas-bags that
hang out here. One can usually find a solution to most problems.
Second, spend a bit more time on your user info. You'll be surprised
how useful things like vehicle, year, make, & model can be.
Looking in my service manual (90 Formula), the ARC fuse does in fact
power (& only) the Radio Receiver. In other vehicles, I've traced a power
drain to a stereo unit failure. So for an aftermarket unit, that can't be
ruled out.
Test lights can be useful, up to a point. Indicating current flow at the
battery, won't help isolate where specifically a failure is occuring, and
some models have a continual but miniscule current draw.
If your "voltmeter" isn't actually a multi-meter, try acquiring one.
I think decent digital units are available in the $30-$40 dollay range.
Then try measuring the current across each fuse connection in the fuse
block. (Remove the fuse, then contact the meter probes into the fuse
block pins.) Hopefully, this will help you isolate the problem circuit,
or device.
Good luck.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Pac J
Tech / General Engine
3
05-17-2020 10:44 AM
raymondandretti
Electronics
1
09-27-2015 06:43 PM