Dual alternator wiring
#1
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Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Dual alternator wiring
I recently bought a CS130D alternator. I plan on doing a cheap dual alternator setup using 2 105 amps. It only has one wire on the pigtail connector. I'm assuming that's for the L connection. It's in the garage so I can't check easily right now.
Does anyone know can I just splice off the L connection on our standard CS130? I read I either need a no charge light or a resistor to prevent voltage regulator lifespan issues on the CS130D.
Posted from Thirdgen.org App for Android
Does anyone know can I just splice off the L connection on our standard CS130? I read I either need a no charge light or a resistor to prevent voltage regulator lifespan issues on the CS130D.
Posted from Thirdgen.org App for Android
#2
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Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Re: Dual alternator wiring
Here is the bracket I plan on using with the alternator and the backside of the alternator (sorry it's blurry) showing only 1 wire off the pig tail connector.
Anyway I was hoping I could just solder an additional wire onto the factory wiring harness and bypass having to put resistor or extra lamp on it.
----------------------------------------
I'm not worried about the regulators flipping off and on. At idle with 13 volume on my head unit the voltage goes from down quickly from the 14 volts I see normally with the stero off and will eventually go <10 volts with enough time.
Everything I have read about the CS130D is basically it's a internal mounted fan, thermal overheating shutdown protection, larger case style, and slightly different connector with wiring configuration. So they do not seem that different.
At one point I had 2 batteries with an isolator to avoid leaching while the car was off. I know if I go back to a dual battery setup, 1 per battery, with a isolator I will need to get a resistor and feed line from the 2nd battery connection so the voltage regulator has the correct reading to avoid overcharging.
Current plans is a single battery with dual alternators.
Can I just splice the L terminal wires together connecting our OEM CS130 and the new CS130D?
Will that just split the current coming through the factory setup and allow both voltage regulators to read the current and work correctly?
Anyway I was hoping I could just solder an additional wire onto the factory wiring harness and bypass having to put resistor or extra lamp on it.
----------------------------------------
I'm not worried about the regulators flipping off and on. At idle with 13 volume on my head unit the voltage goes from down quickly from the 14 volts I see normally with the stero off and will eventually go <10 volts with enough time.
Everything I have read about the CS130D is basically it's a internal mounted fan, thermal overheating shutdown protection, larger case style, and slightly different connector with wiring configuration. So they do not seem that different.
At one point I had 2 batteries with an isolator to avoid leaching while the car was off. I know if I go back to a dual battery setup, 1 per battery, with a isolator I will need to get a resistor and feed line from the 2nd battery connection so the voltage regulator has the correct reading to avoid overcharging.
Current plans is a single battery with dual alternators.
Can I just splice the L terminal wires together connecting our OEM CS130 and the new CS130D?
Will that just split the current coming through the factory setup and allow both voltage regulators to read the current and work correctly?
Last edited by fireturd350; 06-18-2013 at 03:00 PM. Reason: Added more information
#3
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Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Re: Dual alternator wiring
Looks like I finally solved my own question.
Some of the Chevy Silverados had dual alternators from the factory so I found a diagram for them.
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/945687_1
If that diagram is correct I just need to splice off the L Terminal of our CS-130 Delco Alternator to the plug I cut off the harness for the CS-130D Delphi Alternator.
Hopefully get time to bolt the bracket on and test fit the alternator.
I imagine this extra 105 amp alternator should solve my power issues, but if it doesn't this new bracket should be compatiable with the CS-144s. Meaning I can keep my lifetime warranty CS-130 and just buy a 165 amp CS-144 lifetime warranty from the parts store and switch the harness. I shouldn't need the extra $40-$100 GM adaptor bracket.
Some of the Chevy Silverados had dual alternators from the factory so I found a diagram for them.
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/945687_1
If that diagram is correct I just need to splice off the L Terminal of our CS-130 Delco Alternator to the plug I cut off the harness for the CS-130D Delphi Alternator.
Hopefully get time to bolt the bracket on and test fit the alternator.
I imagine this extra 105 amp alternator should solve my power issues, but if it doesn't this new bracket should be compatiable with the CS-144s. Meaning I can keep my lifetime warranty CS-130 and just buy a 165 amp CS-144 lifetime warranty from the parts store and switch the harness. I shouldn't need the extra $40-$100 GM adaptor bracket.
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Car: 86 Z/28 IROC-Z
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3.27
Re: Dual alternator wiring
Never messed with dual alternator set up. But those isolators, there crap for sure. For some reason they like to burn up alternators.
I use a heavy duty relay from motor home store, to link the batts when the key is on. Never killed another alternator.
Good luck on your set-up.. Wonder how this dude wired things up:
I use a heavy duty relay from motor home store, to link the batts when the key is on. Never killed another alternator.
Good luck on your set-up.. Wonder how this dude wired things up:
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Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Re: Dual alternator wiring
Looks like cs144s directly to the battery. Nice thing about those 144s is they still make insane amps at idle. He's probably getting 250+ amps at idle and 600+ once spun up to speed.
I'm just trying to power 2400 watts worth.
I'm just trying to power 2400 watts worth.
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