Al Nonymous

Hello there, I have a 92 RS manual 305 TBI (turd) that suddenly does nothing when I turn the key. I've never had a problem with this before now. It was hot as heck when it stopped and I had driven it about an hour before it started doing nothing. I've tried cleaning the key and ignition cylinder, disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and checked fuses. The security light comes on for like 5 seconds when the key is turned on and then goes right off. And I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. I have been reading and assume it's the VATS. I tested the ohms on the key pellet and it looks to be the #3 (689) out of the 15 made. This might be usless info and if it is I appologize. I just need to know the easiest way to start the car so I can move it because it can't stay where it is currently sitting and it's on an incline so it's not easy to push. I really don't care about the VATS and if the easiest way to start the car is bypassing them that's fine with me. I have an aftermarket alarm I want to put in but haven't tried because I don't want to mess with the VATS. Can someone please explain the simpleist way to get it running again? I would appreciate it more than you know. Thank you in advance.

-Al

funkdubie

starter relay, neutral safety switch, fusible link, bad starter...no easy way to tell but u can do it if you have a helper and a volt meter. as far as an easy way to start it...there is no safe way to bypass the starting circuit...call a tow truck or get a strap and tow it out of the way.

jharrison5

If it started when cold, but not when hot then it could be a lot of things. Does the car turn over or just do nothing? If it turns over then I would say fuel or spark issue, but if it doesn't turn over then I would say starter is bad.

Al Nonymous

For over a day it did nothing at all. No clicking, nothing. And this afternoon it just started. I didn't do anything except take off the panel under the steering wheel to look but I didn't do anything. I got it moved though. Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it.

funkdubie

I would buy a starter relay and keep it in the console.

Wife'sCar

iTrader: (1)

If it's manual, next time it's on an incline and it acts up, try roll starting it down the hill. If it starts from that hen it's not vats.

Al Nonymous

Hello again, so today I started it and backed it out of the garage into the driveway and turned it off. When I tried starting it again about 30 minutes later it did nothing again. The security light is normal and comes on for a few seconds and then goes off. So I tried pulling out the starter enabler relay and bypassing it by jumping the 2 big wires together as suggested in some posts I have read. I tried it and it started. Then I turned it off and tried again and it's dead again. So I have put the relay back and that's where I am now. It does nothing when I turn the key. Should I have bypassed the neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal? Can I even do that? Or what else should I try? I'm sorry if I don't make sense and any and all help is greatly appreciated.

tealman92

I had the same problem. What it is is the orange vats wire in the ignition tumbler has broken on one side and some times it connects and sometimes it doesnt. Your going to have to replace the ignition switch or bypass the vats in the ignition switch. I just replaced my ignition switch amd had a new key made.

Al Nonymous

Thank you. I will give that a look.

Al Nonymous

Wouldn't that cause the security light to be on though?

tealman92

Nope. I never thought of vats because my security light acted the same. Then for ***** and giggles I pulled the column apart and found my problem

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

Hey Al ,

I'm glad you didn't take offence to my suggesting keeping all the info in the same thread . Some do get angry about it and it's really for the best as everyone who will respond gets to see all the posts (and possible clues as to why it won't start) in one handy place .


Anyway , since you mentioned having signal with your voltmeter at the neutral safety switch even when it wasn't starting (while turning the key) I'd suggest investigating that aftermarket alarm system you mentioned in there , as those do have a "starter kill" function and that one could be intermittently defective .

Remember , the starter kill is tapped into , in series , with the signal going from the key to the starter solenoid . Thus , you can't just take out the alarm without restoring the connection cut to wire in the starter kill . With no alarm and no reconnection of the cut start circuit wire , it will be an always open circuit ....

Al Nonymous

Thank you and no offence taken. I will take your advice and remove the Locktronics BS system and take note to what you said about the wiring. I will post back with what happens. Thank you again OrangeBird.

And Thank you TealMan, I am also looking at the VATS wire you said is the problem.

-Al

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

I have been having the same problem with an '88 GTA.
After back tracing all the wires and changing the electrical switch, I have discovered there is no voltage at the yellow wire coming from the switch sometimes.

It will start once in awhile and then quit again.
Got another switch and it will start three times and then quit again. Also replaced the starter.

There is voltage at the red wire at all times but not always at the yellow wire.
It's almost like the switch is not making contact inside. (red to yellow)

I will be taking it apart and cleaning the wire connections to the switch next.

gearhead141

I've been having this issue on my '85 Trans Am. No Vats on that model so that isn't even on the list. What I found was that sometimes the actuator rod in the column was not making contact. I have tilt, and if lowering the column a single notch, the engine would start. So I've come to the conclusion it is linkage from the tumbler to the actual switch that is the problem. It doesn't happen all the time, more often than not when it is hot outside, so something in the column is changing with heat. There are some other threads that talk about this in relation to loose tilt mechanisms.

Al Nonymous

Hello, here's the latest...The locktronics crap is out of the car now and didn't do anything. I have tried everything mentioned I'm pretty sure now and still it's not starting. I have tried it with the starter enabler relay and the clutch safety switch bypassed and also not bypassed with a tested relay and switch. I have added the correct resistor where the clip is on the orange wire that turns in to the 2 small purple and white wires. I tested the ohms and they match the key. So that takes the starter enabler relay, clutch safety switch and the orange wire off the list of problems I hope?? It now sits with the starter enabler relay and clutch safety switch back in the car and the orange wire to the ignition switch is bypassed with a resistor. I went under the car and tried putting a screwdriver across the hot terminal and the purple wire going towards the ignition and it tried kicking a little once and then just threw sparks but didn't kick. What do you guys think? Possibly the starter? Thank you in advance.

-Al

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

Hi Al ,

as long as you've got a well charged battery , good battery wires , and a not sized engine , and it won't crank when you jump the solenoid , then yes it looks like the starter or solenoid is dead . Since they come together as a unit , they are usually replaced together . Make sure to remove a battery terminal before you take any wrenches to it , and be prepared in that there is only one way the starter will drop out from between the exhaust and the side of the engine partially hidden by a suspension component or few . In reality , once you find the "sweet spot" it drops right out , it's just finding that spot can require more twisting & turning than most have patience for . Keep track of any shims as they may be needed for the new starter if it doesn't come with any . The new starter should come with not only a couple of shims , but also a written description of how to determine what if any shims are needed . This is important as it sets the depth to which the gears mesh , and if wrong can eat a new starter or ring gear in a very small number of starts .....

Al Nonymous

Thank you all for the advice. So after testing/replacing/bypassing everything from the pellet in the key all the way down the line to the starter and finally got it. So after trying everything even going to get a new starter but when they tested mine they said it's good and I don't need a new one so I put it back in the car and it didn't work, Seeing as I'd tried a new starter enabler relay, ignition switch, neutral safety switch with no results and now have the relay, safety switch and key pellet bypassed I figured it has to be the starter so I just bought one and of course......... It turned out to be the starter. Ohh and when I got home with the new starter and got it out and looked at it, the mail terminal was loose so it was bad and I had to go get a replacement. (I should have checked) I was at a loss for words though. But it's fixed now 13 headaches later. Thanks again everyone.