1986FirebirdV6

I just recently purchased this '86 Firebird, and the hatch struts were bad, and also the hatch motor wasn't working. Well, I replaced the struts, so I could take off the plastic piece that everything is under (by the latch). After I replaced the struts, the hatch seemed to clolse good, and there wasn't any gaps in the body lines, which I thought was weird, since I couldn't hear the motor.

Anyway, once I got the plastic trim piece off by the latch, I noticed that there was a white connector, with a blue wire coming from the motor, and a red wire coming from the harness, that wasn't connected. There is also a white wire, on the same loom as the blue wire, that has a weird looking black connector on it, that also isn't connected to anything, and I can't find the mate to it. So, I decided to hook up the two ends of the white connector, and the motor started working! So, I put everything back together, and shut the hatch, expecting it to suck it down, when it closed. But, nothing happened! And, now there's a big gap, where the hatch is like at least an inch higher than the rear quarters! So, I'm assuming that the connector was unplugged for a very good reason!

Now, I even bought a new motor, and was going to replace it, but I wanted to come on here first, and ask what the problem might be? I don't understand why it isn't working, when I shut the hatch? I put everything together, before I attempted shutting it. could the black switch, that is located on the hatch be bad? Could that be the reason why the one connector was unplugged, and it was obviously unplugged in the closed position, as like I said, when I first replaced the struts, the hatch seemed to close nice a tight.

I have read the other thread on here, on the hatch problem, and saw the wiring diagram, and such, but this is a strange situation. Could it be that the previous owner just didn't know what was bad, and somehow was able to reverse the motor, so the hatch would close somewhat tight? If that piece that is located on the hatch is bad, what is the name of it? I'm talking about the black piece, with the two prongs on it, that make the connection with the piece on the trunk. I'm not very good about reading schematics, so you might have to hold my hand on this one, and explain it to me.

P.S. There was a piece of wood, on top of the hatch motor, that said "Do not remove" in red letters on it. Was that something from the factory?

Thanks,
John

1986FirebirdV6

Really, no one has had this issue? So, should I try replacing the motor, and see what happens?

John

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

Ok , let's get at least some of this sorted ;

First and foremost , no factory put any wood anywhere near the trunk latch of your car . That is part of someone's hack repair and of course doesn't belong there . The two most common usual failures of these trunk pull down motors are that the plastic gears strip , or the reversing switch fails . There might even be another switch in there for end limit travel but don't quote me on that , it's been a while . Anyway , also , the spring loaded contact that is mounted to the trunklid and makes contact with the silver strips on the body has nothing to do with the closing mechanism whatsoever , that only brings power to the third brake light (2 prongs) and the rear window defroster (if equipped with the defroster it will have 4 prongs) .

If you need in depth help , there is a site sponsor here who goes by the business name "Top Down Solutions" and his name is Lon and he is who I would seek out if I were in your situation .

PS , not being a ***** here , but the blue font is kinda annoying to read , and may be why no one answered your post ......

Good Luck

1986FirebirdV6

Thanks for responding, and the heads up withthe other member. I'll try looking him up later, when I can get on the computer.

But, what you said about the spring loaded part brings up a question. The one on my car only has two prongs, but the car has the rear defogger. And, my third brake light isn't working! So, could someone have put the wrong switch on the hatch end?

Also, is this reversing switch you mention in the motor itself, or is it a different part?

Thanks,
John

AmorgetRS

iTrader: (6)

I would guess this switch is what failed:

http://www.top-downsolutions.com/hat...h-pull-down-un

Basically the pull down doesn't realize that the hatch is closed.

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

That White wire with the strange end on it is for the Rear Wipers if your car is equipped with that option, if it don't, that wire just hangs there unplugged.
On your 3rd brake light,try this,lift the hatch up,there's a Black switch in the center just above the locking mechanism,it's spring loaded,try and pull on it to stretch it some(be carefull don't break it)that's what controls your brake light.Here's some trouble shooting tips for the pull down.

This switch, try and stretch it down

Veaceonee

iTrader: (1)

Ok, that 2 prong switch near the latch is third brake light only. The contacts suck, and need to be adjusted regularly (grand 80s technology). Stick a meter to the contact plate on the car side and have someone step on the brake to ensure there is power to the switch. IIRC my '86 had wiring in the rear glass that fed the top mounted rear brake light.

Hatch Pull down. When i got my current car, it didnt have any struts and the PO would just let the decklid slam into the Pull down hatch, basically destroying it. You can spend ages troubleshooting and replacing parts. I would just replace the whole unit, either buy a rebuild or get a junkyard unit. Chances are it is jammed if it is being held up by wood. I replaced mine with a JY unit, then got a rebuild kit from Top Down Solutions. Be very careful with the casing as it is very fragile and can crack easily.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

I believe the OP called yesterday and I've sent him instructions how to test the reversing switch. I also believe it to be his problem.

Lon Salgren

1986FirebirdV6

OK, I'm getting frustrated now!! Got the reversing switch from Lon, mounted it on the motor, plugged everything back in, and nothing! Called Lon, and he said that the fuse was blown. Well, I looked it up in the owners manual, and it said that the hatch release is with the interior lights, cigarette lighter, etc. Well, those things are working. I called Lon again, and said that the fuse is good, and he said that there's another fuse, just ahead of the fuse panel, by itself, in it's own holder. Can't find it anywhere!

The catch here, is that when I first started messing with this, the motor worked! So, I know that the fuse must have just blown, if I can only find it!!

Does anyone know where the hatch motor fuse is for an '86 Firebird?

Next, I Jerryrigged my battery charger through the drivers side window, so I can hook it up to the wires for power. Well, the motor worked! But, I had to flip the switch manually, as I didn't have it in the correct position when I installed the switch. But, after messing with it a few times, now the gear is stripped, as the motor keeps running! So, luckily for me, I already bought a new motor, and gear, when I purchased the hatch struts from Rock Auto.

So now, what do I have to look forward to, when I change out this motor? How much should the rod be 'screwed in' to the plastic gear piece? And, after I get that done, what is going to stop it from happening again? I made the mistake of not marking the three bolts that hold the whole mechanism to the car. I didn't realize that there was so much adjustment for this!

This has been the biggest pain in my ***! I hope someone can steer me in the right direction, so I can get this done!

Thanks,
John

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

As I mentioned on the phone, turn the gear in 7.5 turns.

Lon Salgren

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

"Does anyone know where the hatch motor fuse is for an '86 Firebird?
Did you read my post??It says the fuse is located above the fuse block taped to the I/P harness.That info is from the 86 Firebird Service Manual

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

I also recommended getting a 1986 Firebird Service Manual, available new at www.helminc.com, or used on TGO or eBay.

Thanks, Lon Salgren

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

For future reference , this is the absolute worst way to provide a test source of power to automotive devices . You got lucky because it was only a motor and switch involved , no "electronics" per se (Transistors , Diodes , etc) .

If you take a volt meter to your charger , you'll find that in "open circuit" condition (which it is till the very second you connect it to something ) the reading can be as high as 17 or 18 volts which could be potentially fatal to electronic devices , especially since the output is unfiltered (always) , unregulated (sometimes) , and well over 12V (and even over the normal 14.7 of a running alternator) at the instant electrical contact is made (every time it's connected to something) .

I have one of those portable "jump pack" rechargeable 12 Volt batteries fitted with 10' of 12Ga. wire with a 20 amp fuse inline and alligator clips on the ends of the wires for such tests .