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So I got my car running after V6 to TPI swap, and all of a sudden the car will not start. The entire ignition system is new, I'm getting spark, and I'm getting fuel. I read that it could be the oil pressure switch so I replaced that too a d still nothing. The car will just crank and crank forever. I'm out of ideas. I don't know why it would run and then the next it wouldn't. I did manage to get the car running and went for a ride, when I got back same thing. Car would not start again and I have no idea why. Anyone have any ideas?
New spark plugs, wires, coil, electronic spark timing control module, new distributor, cap, rotor, oil pressure sending unit, coolant temperature sensor, custom memcal for the car...
Fuel pump relay has power and the lead to the pump has power, pump will run when manually jumped. Grounds are good and tight, am I missing something?
Dealing with a similar issue and I'm actually about to go put my car as high in the air as I can to drop my Fuel tank because I am not cutting a hole into my car. Plus gives me a head start to put all my BMR performance stuff on . Are you injectors firing ? You've got the pressure. I'm willing to bet the injector or injectors has an issue. I've read it takes one to mess everything up. Then'd I'd check the ECM. Just a thought.
You have a new engine and you are getting fuel and spark. Check the air filter. Did you make sure the cat or muffler isn't stopped up. The timing could be off on the engine.
Vats is deleted. Injector harness has power and fuel rail primes to 47 psi. All sensors but air intake temp sensor, and throttle position sensor are new on the car. Tested the fuel pump relay for power, there's power to the prime circuit and the grey lead to the tank. Seems the ground on the tank is fine too, accidentally touched it to hot and blew 20amp fuse in the harness so I replaced that. Grounds are good, just rechecked them for the 89th time again yesterday. Computer and memcal pass my checks I usually do, car will give code 12, and ses light comes on the dash when key to the on position.
if you still have the old injectors, maybe you could unplug one of the new ones and plug in an old one for a minute. have somebody crank the engine and see if the pintle moves? i'd think it should open?
If you are sure you have fuel pressure at the rail, why are you checking fuel pump relay wiring? Just because you have fuel pressure at the rail does not mean you are getting fuel into the engine and just because VATS has been deleted doesn't mean your injectors are firing. You spray starting fluid into the intake and the engine runs until the fluid is used up, correct? Your ECM needs to see pulses from the distributor before it will fire the injectors, check your ICM.
Try holding the gas pedal 1/4 to 1/2 open while cranking, Says this on the the decal over the drivers side sun visor on my '86 for hard starts.. also, try the shifter in neutral for the heck of it... shouldn't make a difference, but Y not.. you said you blew a fuse, sure you didn't fry something else somewhere?? and as stated above icm?
If you are sure you have fuel pressure at the rail, why are you checking fuel pump relay wiring? Just because you have fuel pressure at the rail does not mean you are getting fuel into the engine and just because VATS has been deleted doesn't mean your injectors are firing. You spray starting fluid into the intake and the engine runs until the fluid is used up, correct? Your ECM needs to see pulses from the distributor before it will fire the injectors, check your ICM.
I 2nd the check ing control module.
Assuming you have the small cap he I with the remote Mount coil. At 400 rpm the module switches to be controlled by the ECM. Try un plugging the 4 pin connector at the dist see if that makes a difference. Still leaves the? Why not starting unless you hit it with starting fluid. That has to be a fuel issue.
Been looking at this to trace fuel pump relay wiring
It might be a good idea to stop guessing at the problem and start over with a methodical approach per the FSM. The FSM flowcharts list steps that, based on the results of those steps eliminate the need to check things that don't need checking.
The image you have above appears to be from the FSM Electrical Diagnosis Supplement; do you have the FSM Shop Manual as well? Have you looked through the driveability sections?
I've attached Chart A-3 (and Chart C-4, if needed) from the main volume of the FSM. Hopefully the scans are legible enough and apply to what you're running. I would spend a few hours and start at the top and work your way through the chart.
Question about the engine swap; you also state that the no-start was "all of a sudden the car would not start". It's probably safe to say that it was running well before with no issues, yes?
Check the injectors with a noid light. Make sure they are firing. I had a similar issue in the past where out of the blue the car would not start. When I put a noid light on every injector would light the light on quick flash and then go out. There could be a host of issues that can cause this, mine was the ICM in the distributor.It could be as simple as the ground circut (this fires the injectors) from the ECM is not making good contact and works sometimes.
Car fired right up absolutely no issues whatsoever first time and ran for two months. Came home from work one day, decided to get in it and go andnothing. That was before I pulled the trans to be rebuilt. ICM? You mean the electronic spark timing module in the distributor? That's new as well. Didn't do anything or make any difference when I put a new one from Napa in it. Car won't start with starting fluid. Only way it would start was with the fuel pump relay unplugged before I put in new injectors and now it won't even do that.
Tried swapping computers even. That didn't make any difference. All my grounds are tight as can be to clean bare metal as well. The entire ignition system is new minus the distributor, and the entire fuel system is new besides the regulator but that will change tmrw. Timing was set by the guy who built me the engine and it ran like a raped ape with timing right where it was.
You're at the point where it was running and now it quit. Parts replacement commenced and assumptions made based on previous actions with no resolutions.
Even though in your mind you've covered all the bases, I would go through Chart A-3 step by step.
I lived with an intermittent miss for over a year in my commuter, addressing it off and on when I'd get ambitious. I discounted the spark plugs because, "I changed them them....they're fine".
When the miss started to get progressively worse, I finally hooked up my engine scope and noticed that the No. 4 plug pattern was "weird". I pulled the plug and found this:
I cracked the porcelain when I installed the plug (it located way down a hole in the head). The misfire eventually killed the catalytic converter.
My point is, don't assume that something is right because it's new/replaced without confirming that it's working properly. Especially now when you've looked at the usual suspects without resolution.
I noticed something weird about the car today. When I reset the computer and turn the key forward the chime will come on and stay on for a few seconds the first time I try it. Anytime after that the chime will be on with the key in the ignition, but as soon as I turn the key to on, the chime stops. Could this have anything to do with the vats or something preventing the car from starting?
i mean this with no disrespect, but i'm confussed by some of your posts/results. it runs for a few with starting fluid, then it doesnt. the VATS is disabled but your not sure? you claim it has fuel pressure but still messing with the pump for some reason. are the injecters actually firing? you wont do a compression test. is your distributer loose? it could be many things but you've got to start narrowing it down. spark? then is it actually getting fuel? then compression. again, no disrespect. i'm just confussed with your findings.
I said it would carry on with ether, meaning it will back fire, not run. The vats is disabled in the memcal but who knows if something about it still isn't messed up and preventing the car from starting? Because I sure don't. I ordered a tool to test injectors, but, when I crank it I can smell fuel, the injector harness has power, so what conclusion would you draw? I'm not going to waste my time and money on a compression tool, because I just had the engine rebuilt, I ran it, I drove it, and you should try to crank that thing over by hand with the spark plugs still in. Entire ignition system is brand new. I tighten the distributor back up every time I try to fire it again.
the backfiring sounds like it could be timing related? i've distributers move that werent tightened down properly. timing chains break and or jump. distributers themselves break. if you pull the cap and crank the engine does the rotor move?
just tossing a few things out. i feel your frustration. i built an engine years ago and couldnt get it to fire. i know the firing order, but somehow i had put them on backwards, lol. oh, i felt so stupid.
only trying to be helpful as it sounds like your running out of ideas. hope you get it figured out soon.
Rotor turns, I just don't understand, everything seems fine but it just wont run. I really think something could be wrong with the vats but I'm still looking into how to disable it through the wiring. Running out of things to check haha.
05-02-2016, 10:43 AM
. Are you injectors firing ? You've got the pressure. I'm willing to bet the injector or injectors has an issue. I've read it takes one to mess everything up. Then'd I'd check the ECM. Just a thought. 
