Jesse076

Hello Guys here we go again with the notorious "no start" condition. Ok im going to try to give as much info as I can to see if maybe im overlooking something and someone can chime in. I have read most of the posts about the no start condition so let me start with what I have done.

ok first I blew the stock 305 LO3 that came in my 89' vert auto A/C Camaro. I have replaced that engine with a 350 from a 91 Chevy truck C1500. I know I need to change out some of the stuff like injectors.computer etc. before I do all that I wanted to get the engine in started and running. This is the issue.

First I had to change the starter ( the bolt holes in the 350 block do not line up with the starter from the 305) so I have a new starter which was bench tested before putting in.

Second i replaced the ignition module with the 350 one bought it brand new.

Third replaced the batt because the old one would not hold a charge.

Fourth I replaced the relay(ignition switch relay I believe) in the driver side door panel. The old one had some black grease on the connector and when I tried to start the relay clicked but nothing so I assumed it was the relay so I bought a new one. The relay also made a buzzing noise as I kept trying to start it. So I assumed the relay was bad.

So now the car doesnt crank make a noise or anything no click at the starter nothing. Before when the old relay was in I would bang on it a little shake it and after that I heard a click down by the starter.

Now I dont even get that click at the starter.
I hear nothing at all no click or no sense that it wants to start.

I did not disconnect any wires inside just the ones in the engine bay. I have double/triple checked the wires at the starter and they are tight.

There is voltage at the starter but no start...while i was doing all this replacing of parts etc the VATS(security light acted normal turned off after a couple of seconds as its supposed to do)

Now the VATS (security light) is staying on. Which indicates an issue with the VATS.

I checked the codes and the only code I was getting today was a code 54(too much voltage in the system) I read on here somewhere about a code 53 with the VATS but I did not get that.
The knock sensor came inside the block all other wires are hooked up where they should be the only sensor not hooked up is the oil pressure(which on this 350 is by the distributor vs the 305 which is located above the oil filter)

The plugs between the two are different so im going to have to make a junkyard trip to find the wires and connect them to my existing wires so the computer can read the oil pressure.

The only other plug or sensor that is not currently hooked up is a sensor/plug that is on the drivers side of the 350 block. I do not have any wires or plugs to plug into that sensor/plug available from the 305. I think it might be a coolant type of sensor or maybe just for the gauge not sure.

Since they are both TBI I have used my orginal TBI and sensors. The 350 came with the TBI intake bolted to it already.

so before I start messing with the VATS checking the resistance etc and putting in a wire etc that has been noted here...i am not sure if im on the right track.

I have been throwing enough parts at this thing that I dont want to spend any more $$ on parts that I might or might not need.

So once again I turn the key and no start,no click at the start,no indication its trying to start. nothing....dead. The last time is acted like this was when the starter went out about a year ago. It also acted like this when the ignition module went out also a little over a year ago. Based on my experience this is the reason I bought the ignition module. The starter I had no choice because the 305 starter would not line up. I also replaced the serpentine belt since the 350 is longer compared to the 305.

When I turn the key the temp needle goes all the way hot then I let off the key and it goes back down. The RPM needle moves to about 1-2K.

The oil pressure gauge is reading at 60+ (which is probably due to it not being hooked up)

I was also thinking of the trans safety switch. I put the trans in all gears trying to start it thinking maybe the linkage was off or not correct. Still nothing...so if anyone has any info that would be helpfull please let me know.

Thanks for your help.

Jesse076

Ok since I think I have everyone else stumped on this problem along with myself...I do have an update sort of...

Well now the car will try to start actually turning over but still no start.

One thing I did notice is the small black ground wire that goes from the batt neg to the fender was getting extremely hot,even smoking when trying to crank it over.

Also the braided ground strap on the back of the block that goes to the firewall from the block began to get hot as well.

The neg batt cable was cold except for the small ground wire hooked to the fender. The Pos batt cable was also cold...

I am also getting a code 53 as well.

I also have the neg batt cable connected to the fuel pump block off plate bolt which I think might or could be causing this problem. I put it there because I did not remember(until looking at my manual) where it originally hooked up to.

So right now my next step is to get an alternate ground location on the block or try to put back into the original spot.

If ANYONE has any other imput/ideas/suggestions etc please let me know.

Thanks for your help.

NathanLewis

You have a short somewhere

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

The main Neg cable has a bad connection somewhere and is not passing power correctly;
That is why the smaller wires are getting hot because they are carrying the heavy current intended for the main cable.
Check / clean /tighten the connections on main cables.
(batt Neg usually goes to a bellhousing bolt )

Short ( to ground ) does not heat up the Neg cables ; only Pos

NathanLewis

whoopsies, read that wrong.


Pushing alot of power through that small gauge wire, lots of resistance.

Jesse076

OK final update.... ITS STARTS!! She is alive! What happened after replacing all the things I did and getting the hot ground wire..I figured it out...drum roll...it was the Distributor. The little pole pieces and the part under the rotor etc all rusted out. I tought the pole pcs with a screwdriver and they broke like pcs of glass. So when I was trying to crank it over since the dist was basically broken that casued all the resistance to come back through the electrical system which is why the grounds were getting hot. I never seen or thougt a distributor would do that crazy something so simple caused so many headaches...lesson learned. So now she starts and runs just get all the smog hoses etc to get her to pass smog. I did have one issue though, the serpentine belt slides on the pulleys. It wants to come off but it doesnt. One thing I noticed was the water pump pulley doesnt look like it lines up with the others...I think I need a water pump pulley from a 350 5.7 L as all the other pulleys look to line up.