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Engine SwapEverything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.
Would love to find out also, still got a lot of tuning to do. I didn't do anything to it this past summer just wasn't ready. I want to get this thing back on the road and tuned up this year. Still need to get the fuel pump replaced as soon as this weather warms.
I know, old thread and super cool engine build, I'd love to know how it turned out, but this tranny and clutch setup is a pretty big deal. any more info on this? did you just slide that throw out bearing on, drill and tap for the stud that keeps it from spinning and run a normal clutch, without all the complexity stuff everyone else seems to do?
I can see the part number on the throw out, did you happen to save the number for the clutch, so I can research applications?
external balanced 2 piece rear main with a lt1 pull style is so limiting in clutch options.
I'd like to hear about it as well. The small stuff add alot of time to the build.
definitely, this little thing would make a t56 swap way easier. like use with stock t5 clutch if wanted too, say you already had a good one and just want a nice tranny upgrade. also looking at ram they make a dual disk 10.5 clutch that will bolt to a stock gm flywheel. so that would be good for the stock flywheel but also going back to if you're using a 2 piece rear main older block, I've already got a stock flywheel from a 71 400 with a t5 clutch on it. avoiding buying that street twin for the LT swap that's like 1400$ these days would be really sweet. back when I did my 1st t56 swap using the lt1 style, I just used a lt1 clutch which was never that great and expensive for what it was.
buying a ls1 bell housing and input shaft is something that sounds horrible to me too, plus it moves everything back, gotta cut more out of the floor for the shifter. I'd much rather tap the front of the stock case for a stud, throw in that throw out bearing and run the clutch and fly wheel I have with the t5 now, upgrade later when the 2.66 first fries my clutch haha. my lt1 t56 has been sitting in a corner for years now over not wanting to deal with the clutch crap again with this car.
Call Ram they will have what you need. I am in the middle of a ford 9 inch install adding 315s and moving up to 1.6 rockers. More tuning is in my future.
Call Ram they will have what you need. I am in the middle of a ford 9 inch install adding 315s and moving up to 1.6 rockers. More tuning is in my future.
Nice. Can you elaborate on what you did to fit 315s?
Congrats on making it this far.
I'm hoping to have mine where yours is by this spring...
I've got to shim my vortec cam sync sensor, figure out where/how to mount my LS coils, measure for custom spark plugs, and get my front suspension reconditioned and engine bay painted to get the engine back in the car.
EFI harness is hooked up but I haven't even read the manual for the Holley HP EFI yet...
Yes it did take 6 years. Pulled motor and set it on the ground and soon after my Father passed away. Sold house moved to new house and got married in 2017.
This was a motor swap - paint engine bay - install ford 9 inch cut bump stops to install 315 rear rubber - tune tune tune and its still not done swap. AKA money pit that I love and hate to work on....
I got the rear broken in so I am going to be WOT tuning all this week to get ready for the Dyno.
I had alot of fun today, but the tune is not there yet and it showed on the dyno. I did the best I could in 3 weeks of tuning. Just so everyone knows this was a group dyno run so it was a $50 for two pulls and no pipe sniffing for AFR or tuning on the dyno. It was pulling timing starting at 3600 RPM up 6 -8 degrees by 4500 RPM @ WOT. The fueling needs some work too.
Orr, I am curious or anyone else that has been around a dyno. Is what is on the graph look to you as clutch slip? The dyno operator thought so, but I brushed it off as nah it has to be the tune. I am not so sure now. I see it pulled timing but the fueling was not off as much as I thought. He thought maybe we had too much preload on the clutch. I need to pull the trans this winter so I will check both the clutch and recheck the numbers. It's a push set up ram twin disk.
I am not sure, i havent seen clutch slip before on a dyno. Most cars i been involved with were autos
whats the difference between the two runs? Similar peak hp but way different torque curves and area under the power curve. Is that what you are referring to? Everything else kinda looks ok to me, big cubes and a tpi intake peaking near 4500 and holding for abit seems normal and then rapid taper off peak rpm to higher revs like that. Playing with timing after peak hp may help hold onto power some more but top end looks like a tpi car to me.
Did you take a datalog during the dyno runs and was it pulling more timing in the first run? How much timing are you running? I can't use much timing at WOT with my 383 FIRST setup without knock retard. It took awhile to find the sweet spot. You must have a lot of potential left with already awesome numbers.
Was AF ratio determined of your ECU data? I think with some good one on one dyno time you will see alot of improvement. Would be nice to see that tq number over 500.Alot of potential left in this.
First run pulled 4 degrees @ 3600
Second run pulled 5 degrees @ 3200 11.4 AFR at the best to 10.0 by 4500 RPM. To 6100 RPM limiter
Here is the complete log of the second run. Need to pull timing and get the AFR to 12.5
First run pulled 4 degrees @ 3600
Second run pulled 5 degrees @ 3200 11.4 AFR at the best to 10.0 by 4500 RPM. To 6100 RPM limiter
Here is the complete log of the second run. Need to pull timing and get the AFR to 12.5
I set up my dominator to run dual knocks. When I told my tuner this he told me to eliminate them. I questioned it and he assured me that they are very very involved to tune correctly and is a waste in a NA combo. Alot of false knock he said. I didnt question it as he came recommended on the Holley board by alot of users. That said. What is your total timing and rpm / load it's in by? I can look at my maps and maybe give you some info. I'm running a 421 with 11.1 but on a miniram.
Yeah i dont like knock sensors for that reason, false knocks. When you get outside of 305 or 350 cubes the sensors no longer are correct lol
that thing has good power on the table.
You probably want to pull a few deg at peak torque rpm area and ramp some back in by peak hp rpm. Lean it out some first tho, it may clean up fine with no knocks once leaner. Should be over 400 whp i think after that
If the motor is making that number at that af ratio there is alot of power left to be made just fixing the fuel. What are you aiming for hp wise? I'd say your good for about 425 -440 wheel hp at least. When I put in a higher GPh meth nozzle on my mustang the first run was like 10.1 to see the fuel table. Originally it was 11.8 tuned. And made 425 hp to wheel. At 10.1 it was down 65hp. Just a fyi to give some perspective.
If the motor is making that number at that af ratio there is alot of power left to be made just fixing the fuel. What are you aiming for hp wise? I'd say your good for about 425 -440 wheel hp at least. When I put in a higher GPh meth nozzle on my mustang the first run was like 10.1 to see the fuel table. Originally it was 11.8 tuned. And made 425 hp to wheel. At 10.1 it was down 65hp. Just a fyi to give some perspective.
I would be happy in the 420 - 440 HP range I built it to be a fun torque street car HP can land where it wants.
If you sneak up on timing until torque peaks then you'll never need a knock sensor. You can find those points quickly on a Mustang dyno that will hold the engine at a certain rpm.
Hey TORN I noticed you T56s bearing setup. Im in the process of figuring out my LT1 t56. I want to switch out to a throwout bearing. I'm not finding any solid info on it. That metal post you made with JB weld. Is it holding up? You recommend doing it that way? And when buying a flywheel do I still need that special flywheel for 2 piece rear mains? Or will any flywheel work? I've read and heard that you have to get a special made flywheel because of pull style clutch and the rear main seal. But changing to a push style means I can use any 2 rms flywheel??? Or???
Hey TORN I noticed you T56s bearing setup. Im in the process of figuring out my LT1 t56. I want to switch out to a throwout bearing. I'm not finding any solid info on it. That metal post you made with JB weld. Is it holding up? You recommend doing it that way? And when buying a flywheel do I still need that special flywheel for 2 piece rear mains? Or will any flywheel work? I've read and heard that you have to get a special made flywheel because of pull style clutch and the rear main seal. But changing to a push style means I can use any 2 rms flywheel??? Or???
hopefully he will reply with details on his setup but I will say for sure, yes your flywheel has to match the type of rear main seal, the type of clutch you're running and if your engine is externally balanced or not. like a stock 400ci crank used in either a 400 block or as a 383 in a 350 block. I say stock because you can buy aftermarket 383 cranks that do not require the external weight to balance.
but yes as for hardware, you have to match the correct type of flywheel to seal, since they two are physically different and wouldn't bolt on each other. same for a push and pull style clutch physically different.
I'm collecting parts to try and do this same style setup with my lt1 t56 and a older 400ci 2 piece seal block. I'd like to not use the stock pull style clutch as well. just because of the custom expensive flywheel and lack of clutch options for the pull. there's only one twin disk that I know of and all very expensive
good luck with your project. if you get it to work. maybe start a thread about it. I'd love to see what you did.
Yes what ??? said is correct match the flywheel to rear seal and crank needs. Holding pin is working fine. Only way it's coming off is if the throwbearing fails. I would hope it would leak fluid and make noise before the pin was ripped off.
The quarter master comes with shims and the instructions will help you set it up with about any clutch flywheel setup. I am also running the adjustable Tilton master cylinder which is also needed to run the quarter master. The stock master cylinder would not move enough fluid.
03-08-2015, 03:41 PM
