JimKlim

Hey everyone, it's been a while but I'm finally able to start doing my engine swap that I wanted. I was able to find a 383 (bored .30 over) with after market cam, pistons, rockers, etc..my only problem is I am not completely sure what I have, here is the story.

I found this motor on craigslist, a guys uncle passed away and it was given to him along with a bunch of other crap, he said it was a motor his uncle built up about three years ago and was going to put it in his firebird. He doesn't know what year the block is, what aftermarket parts are in it, but he tells me it has over 400HP dyno. Is there a way I can figure out what I have or is it just going to be a crap shoot. The insides and everything are in excellent condition, I have a 700R4 Tranny with an aggressive B&M shift kit in it, P.S. I did not pay for the motor yet I told him I need to figure out what it is.

I guess my real quesiton is this motor is going in an 84' z28 swapping the 305 that's in there now. I have an aftermarket intake, and headers, I will pick up a set of vortex aluminum heads, is there anything specifically I should look for or do for sure? I am mechanically inclined and I know a little but not a lot so any help would be greatly appreciated guys. Thanks for any help I receive.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Have him show you the dyno sheet. Without paperwork it's a 305...

Pull the heads and measure the cylinders. If they aren't .030, it's not a 383. Also, you will need to get the P/N off the crank, if it doesn't have a 3.75" throw/stroke, it's not a 383. Do they have the paperwork for it? If they don't, you can only count on it being a 350, possibly bored to 355. What is the block number? If the motor is out of the car, you should be able to read it.

If you get vortec heads, you MUST have a vortec intake...

What is your budget?

What else have you done to the car? I pray you've put subframe connectors in it if you plan on putting a 383 in it. Also, you need to build the rear and the 700R won't live long . The shift kit does nothing to help strengthen the tranny. You need a serious build kit like one from Dana at Pro-Built automatics.

Ultimately, unless you build it yourself or the guy produces an itemized build-sheet and has photo evidence of the install, it's a crap shoot. He may be telling you the truth or he might be trying to pass off a 305 as a 383...

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Yep what Ozz said. Really with out seeing the part numbers on the items you never really know for sure.

Ask him if you can remove a head and the oil pan. With those pulled atleast you can measure bore, get numbers off pistons, crank, see what rods are in it.

If you have a dial gauge, stand and degree wheel you can get a real good idea about cam size.

Get the casting number off the rear driver side of block, suffix code off the front pass side of block in front of head on machined pad.

Get the head casting numbers

JimKlim

This is why I'm asking the pro's . I will put sub frame connectors on my priority list, I have a box of parts I will see what intake I have (it's new) and get all of the information tomorrow for you guys. My budget is to get me pretty damn good horse power and to be safe obviously, I am just going to use it to be the local tough guy on the streets in my city haha, but honestly I want some good power. So the 700 won't be good enough by itself? What exactly has to be done to it to build it up, I thought the 700's could withstand at least 500 horse power? Again I am not expert so don't take my questions as bashing your advice I just really don't know

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

I would start with this at a MINIMUM...

You want this rebuild kit for your 700R, it will hold up to 650hp. 700R4 Rebuild Kit Street/Strip Late 1987-1993 W/Modified Z-PAK This kit doesn't include the removal and replacement OR the actual rebuild of the transmission. This is only the rebuild kit.

You want this converter: Vigilante Torque Converter Stay away from B&M and TCI, they have the highest return rates in the nation on converters.

You want these: Spohn Tubular Sub Frame Connectors UMI and BMR also make some that are reasonable but I like these because I have them. They will keep your car from twisting. I would do this almost before you get the motor done if you can.

I would say this is a minimum to handle the power of a 383. Do it right the first time and spend the money. If you skimp now, you'll at best be unhappy and at the worst, break something and have to buy it again.

JimKlim

Thanks Ozz I appreciate the advice and your time!

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Glad to help! We've all been where you are, trying to decide what to do or which way to go. The last thing we want is to see someone else make the same mistakes. We've all taken different routs, meaning different parts or ways to get to where we each are. That's the great thing, almost no two builds are the same.

JimKlim

Hey guys, sorry for the delay in information, I had to leave town for work and wasn't able to check on those numbers, but here is what I found out. I did have my buddy who is a machinist bring his calipers over and measure the bore size, it was 4.030 Here are the numbers I found on some of the parts, let me know if I need to look for any different ones.


Crank Shaft: 1182
Pistons: L2304.030
Block: (This had a few different numbers)
207508xh24
207S
GM14010207
Heads that are on there: HN06/1-052SR


I was wondering that since the motor is bored out does it need an aftermarket cam and crank shaft to support the 383? Or can the ones that are in there just be normal?


Thanks guys

JimKlim

Hey guys, sorry for the delay in information, I had to leave town for work and wasn't able to check on those numbers, but here is what I found out. I did have my buddy who is a machinist bring his calipers over and measure the bore size, it was 4.030 Here are the numbers I found on some of the parts, let me know if I need to look for any different ones.


Crank Shaft: 1182
Pistons: L2304.030
Block: (This had a few different numbers)
207508xh24
207S
GM14010207
Heads that are on there: HN06/1-052SR


I was wondering that since the motor is bored out does it need an aftermarket cam and crank shaft to support the 383? Or can the ones that are in there just be normal?


Thanks guys

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

From everything I can find on your crank shaft, it's a 3.48 stroke, which means you have a 355 (Standard 350 bored .030) which yours is. It is "NOT" a 383.

To get a 383, you will need to get a new 3.75" crank, the block will need to be clearanced for it and you will need ner rods. Basically everything has to come out of the motor to build the 383.

Have you heard the motor run before?

JimKlim

ok, that's not to big a deal I guess, the block is solid, it's bored out already so that's a good start, any suggestions on a good crank I should slap in there, and when you say the block needs to be clearance d do you mean the oil pan rail getting notched or what exactly does that entail? Also after I take it apart and get the cam out does that need to be swapped out as well? Thanks again.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

There is a few clearance prob areas with a 383.
1) Block's oil pan rails
2) The bottom of the cylinder bores, rod/rod bolt can hit here and you must grind bottom of cylinders but you have to be careful not to grind too deep into block as the water jackets are right there.
3) Rod shoulder and bolt to cam clearance. You can use "stroker" clearanced rods, or grind the rod bolt shoulders down, and maybe even need to go to a small base circle cam depending on size of cam you want to run.
4) Oil pan it's self

Here is a picture of the clearance work to the bottom of the cylinder bores




Here, read this and look at all the pictures down at the bottom of page
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...l-block-chevy/

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Also, you'll want to match the cam to the powerband of the heads, and intake. YOu don't want a cam that runs to 6800rpm when you'll basically top out at 5500.

For a 383, LUnati 60121 (what I have) or 60122 (a bit more lumpy) might fit you well. I suggest you call the manufacturer though. Just remember, each one of them will say "ours is the best for your application". I'ts really "ford-chevy" when it boils down to it. Also, you'll need new springs and if you're doing the work, you want a set of full roller rockers. I suggst Comp Pro-Magnum or the new Ultra-pro magnums or whatever they're called. Fully steel roller rockers, not aluminum which can crack and break.

JimKlim

thanks rider, that's a great link! Man I definitely have my homework to do, I read in that link that there is a package that doesn't require you to shave the deck at all or clear the rods, that might be a good option for me since I've never had to grind down the deck or notch the oil pan rail, I'm sure I can find a million videos on how to do and I'm mechanically inclined so I can figure out pretty much what ever is needed. When it comes time to buy my parts I'll double check with you guys and see what you think, thanks again!!

JimKlim

yeah ozz, there are so many options it gets overwhelming sometimes to try and choose, and I know I have to make sure the parts are compatible weight wise otherwise I'm going to run into the crank being unbalanced and that's another big problem. for now I'm just going to gut the motor, clean up the block and get it prepped for parts.