get_rocd

To who knows my answer:
I am investigating swapping my my turbo 350 for a six speed t56.
My 1988 iroc-z is currently setup with a 2piece rear main seal old school block 383 stroker bolted to a tci turbo 350. From there to a 1350 series aluminum drive shaft into a moser ford 9". I want to swap the trans into a six speed, and eventually in the following year or 2 also swap the 383 for a newer ls2 or ls3.
I'd like to drive the car this summer with the manual trans.

My questions are:
If I swap for the six speed it's my understanding it needs to be an lt1 six speed.
If I use this trans, when I later upgrade to motor to ls2 will the older lt1 t56 bolt to the newer ls2 motor easily?
Is it as simple as a bell housing swap or is there more to it than that?
I realize I'm gonna need a new cross member, and have to shorten my current drive shaft etc.
I just don't know much about manual transmissions.
Can somebody please tell me how this scenario might play out?
Also is there a major difference in how much power the lt1 t56 and the ls1 t56 can hold?

Thanks in advance for your help friends.
-mark-

RustyFormula

iTrader: (1)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borg-Wa...6_transmission
I'm far from an expert, but here's some basic info for comparison.

get_rocd

Thanks rusty. That helped some.
I am now looking for the same answers in regards to the tremec TR 6060. It's much stronger than the t-56 and I plan on putting down 500~ 600 hp to the tires on a shot of nos when it's all said and done. Can anyone else give me insight as to hydraulics, flywheel, etc? I really don't want to have t change everything again when I go LS.
Will a TR 6060 go in my third gen? Case issues?
Again thanks for chipping in.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

What's your budget?

If you have no trans. now, your options are wide open.

There are multiple ways of making different versions of the T56 / TR6060 fit, but there are many many versions of them too. There are also different ways of "re-using parts" used on the SBC, later on the LS_ engine.

But there are trade-offs. Keeping most of the parts the same, but then need to change shorten driveshaft is a possibility.

get_rocd

I'd like to stay under $4000 for this job. Hawks has a all included get er done kit for $2500 but it's all used stuff. I really don't want to go that route. But I was considering it cause I just don't want to spend countless hours researching and possibly ending up with wrong parts. I blew up the tci turbo 350 and removed it. I still have it and all the stuff that goes with it. I was planning on rebuilding it with a trans brake this time. So really, I just want to go stick cause I'm sick of blowing up autos plus I just love driving a stick car. This is my high school car that I built in auto shop class. I have neglected for a few years now. I got into crotch rockets, then boats. But I miss going to the track and drag racing.
Really, I'm just looking for a bullet proof stick that can grow with the power I plan on adding.
The current stroker Motor I plan on recycling into the boat when I go LS in the Camaro.
I need a game plan for this car so I can get started in it without buying inferior parts.
My high school buddy still has his fox body and he's gone cobra swap. I'm looking to get my roc back on the road and drag his ***.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

To do the LT1 T56 now and convert it later:

You need everything 93-97 (pedals, hydros, bellhousing, clutch) and a conversion flywheel.
And an ~87-02 torque arm & driveline. And a modded trans. crossmember.

When you change up, you need an input, shims, bellhousing, different hydros, and obviously clutch & flywheel. You'll be able to keep your torque arm and driveline unless you get crazy with engine placement.

Or to do an LS1 T56 now and later,
You can run a conversion bellhousing (RM6023 is one, Weir makes one. There are spacer options.) This lets you run a big or little flywheel balanced for the 383. It's going to be longer so you might need a driveline shortening (compared to stock third gen) and the torque arm may be a bit long. (Just get a crossmember for T56 / torque arm separate from the trans. instead.)

Then it's ready to bolt onto the LS_ with LS_ F-body parts later.

There are other ways to do it. But, those are starting points.

The 2.66 first gear boxes are good close ratios for drag racing. But the 2.97 boxes aren't bad at all; they have evenly spaced ratios between 1-4. With your LS_ plans, avoid the 1993 F-body T56s. They're fine for someone staying SBC, but not you. Hope you have a good rear gear to match the trans.

500-600hp isn't a challenge for a good shape, well-driven T56.

The TR6060 & T56 Magnum are good too. The things that are actually different between it and the T56 aren't things that really die in a T56 at your power level. Wider gears? T56s don't lack strength that's improved by this until you get to power levels that mandate fluid control, not gear sizing. I could go on, but don't over spend to get no tangible gain.

get_rocd

Thank you so much JMD.
SCENARIO 1 is what I'm trying to avoid.

"When you change up, you need an input, shims, bellhousing, different hydros, and obviously clutch & flywheel. You'll be able to keep your torque arm and driveline unless you get crazy with engine placement."

I'd much rather have the ls trans in there now and just bolt the ls to it.
So the hydro's from the 93-97 should work with the ls trans no problem?
And can you recommend the bell housing and flywheel for the ls trans?
Just a manufacturer is fine. I'll find the parts there on their site.
I don't know who has quality stuff.
As for the crossmember I was gonna use spohn.
Driveshaft I have can be shortened.
The rear end is no problem. It cam survive anything I can throw at it. It's a 33 spline moser with Detroit locker 3:89 gear.
Again. Thank you !!

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Scenario 1: The master cylinder for 93-97 is different bore size and the slave is a completely different design, so no.
Scenario 2: Read up on "does your slave cylinder need a shim" and you'll have a good idea on the gameplan to make the LS style slave work properly with your diaphragm pressure plate behind the 383.

We're assuming you're going with a 98-02 Camaro input length, so 98-02 F-body bellhousing (or scattershield equivalent like Quicktime) is what you'd use with an LS.

3.89 is a nice ratio to match with the 2.66 / 0.50 ratio box.