CapriceCruiser

Howdy Sunday drivers and those who love to ride clean and ride slow. I have a 1986 Caprice (Base 305, rebuilt quadrajet, all stock expect exhaust) and I'm looking to find a good yet affordable 350 to bolt on and install my intake, carb, pumps, etc. and go. My 305 is worn and I really wanted to keep the car original but rebuild for the motor is expensive from what I read. I'll work on just about anything, but engines is out of my league. All the specs and things worry me and I have no mechanic friends or even enthusiasts to ask for help, and I'd rather pay to have and engine taken out and put back in than all the necessary work that may need to be done. My 305 has a really bad rear main seal leak, makes a clicking noise at idle in drive at complete stops, and like I said is just worn. Everything I reads says it's best to just upgrade. I always fought the idea because I don't care to go fast or even about the increase in horsepower. I'm simply just wanting my car to go back to the daily driver it once was, I'd like to take a couple road trips. So to anyone with experience, I'd appreciate your opinion. Should I rebuild my 305? Can anyone recommend an affordable 350 or 305 that's new or rebuilt that I can open up and install my pumps and intake, do my adjustments and go? I live in Broken Arrow, OK. And I don't really have a mechanic shop I trust that I know won't screw me on time (labor) or the quality. I haven't drove my car in months and it hurts my insides. I need to cruise man. All help and info will be appreciated.

JdubRS

You say it's an '86? You have perimeter bolt valve covers? Not the center bolt type, right? It'd be hard to beat this crate engine. Very mild, and all your accessories should bolt up, too. It would still be a good improvement in power from a worn out 305.
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/nal-10067353

CapriceCruiser

I apologize but I've never heard that term before. Perimeter valve covers. I can tell you that my valve covers have 4 screw holes each with the metal spacers.

JdubRS

Around the sides of the valve covers, right? Not through the middle. There's two types, the perimeter type '55-'86 and center bolt, '87+. The later ones the intake manifold mounting is different to match and they have a one piece rear main seal.

CapriceCruiser

Mine do go around the edge with 4 screws per cover. Since posting this I've found an engine. My only questions now are about the proper flywheel, recommended exhaust manifold, and should I keep my quadrajet or get an edlbrock (I'm concerned being a different new motor all the emissions and things that go to the quadrajet might not be available). I believe my current engine has the 153 teeth flywheel.

hears the things I've found: I'd appreciate your opinion

(This is the intake manifold I've found to fit my original in all setup)
Professional Products 52009 Satin Cyclone Intake Manifold for Small Block Chevy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FTEFBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jdKFybYP24B4E

Genuine GM (10067353) 350ci / 5.7L Gen 0 Engine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CFH2S5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ycKFybD2Y84PS


Chevy Small Block 4-1 Design Stainless Steel Clipster Exhaust Header Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SXVBX6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jbKFyb0VHXCDF

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

Everything will swap over and work fine with the Goodwrench 350. Cant beat it for around $1500. I would maybe put a K1103 cam from Summit in it and some headers and dual exhaust if I wanted a lil more power out of it.

JdubRS

What are the emissions requirements in the state you live in? I live in Washington, and a car older than 25 years old isn't even required to go through emissions. Some, like California, are a lot more strict. If emissions weren't real strict, I would go with an Edelbrock 1406. If they only do a tail pipe test in your state, you would most likely not have much trouble getting it to pass. I see Edelbrock has the 1400 carb , and it has an EO# for some applications. Maybe yours. Some people swear by quadrajets. I don't have a ton of experience with them. Most people would definitely say tuning is easier with an Edelbrock.
Your flex plate shouldn't be an issue. The only problem you may run into is your starter not engaging the ring gear properly. A lot of aftermarket starters, like Powermaster, will work with either ring gear.
Those headers will likely help performance. I can't speak to the quality, they are very inexpensive. I know any header is subject to having more problems with gaskets blowing out and bolts loosening up than stock exhaust manifolds. The gaskets those headers will come with will suck. Get some decent ones. You can get locking bolts if you want, too. If it were purely a hot rod, I definitely say get the headers. For a cruiser, it depends on if you're willing to check them once in a while.

CapriceCruiser

I live in Oklahoma and there are no emissions tests. I won't knock my quadrajet but getting to the tuning screws is near Impossible. And will a new set of my original headers fit on the 350? If so I'll probably just do that. My current exhaust setup is the stock headers, no cat and 1 flowmaster and I still get some chug so I'm ok with not having headers. I'd rather not have to worry.

JdubRS

The stock exhaust manifolds should bolt right up.

CapriceCruiser

Thank you all so much! I have one last question. If I decide to go with the Edlelbrock setup (intake manifold and carb) will I need to change the distributer or anything else in order for it to run smooth and correct? If so what do you recommend?

JdubRS

You're welcome. Is your distributor the HEI with the coil in the cap and four terminal connector?

CapriceCruiser

Mine is very similar to that but i cant see the vacuum advance which is what i believe that silver thing that's capped off on the side of it is.

JdubRS

I think some of the carbs that year were
computer controlled, so there are some
basic adjustments the computer makes. I think the distributor ties into that, as well. If that's the case, if you replace the carb,
you'll need to replace the distributor, also, with a non-computer controlled type. All small block Chevys use the same distributor,fitment wise.

CapriceCruiser

Will I need to remove the computer or will it all be fine with the wires unhooked?

JdubRS

I don't know much about the feedback carb computers. I don't think they tie into anything but the carb and distributor. If that's the case, you could probably just remove it. Maybe someone else knows more about what all those computers do. They are much less sophisticated and tied into things than the latter fuel objected ones.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The ECM controls the transmission torque converter clutch lock-up, and relies on input from the computer controlled carb and distributor. If you go non-computerized, you need to provide a means to lock up the TCC.

The computer q-jet is a great carb. You only need to get to the adjustment screws in the base of the carb once, when you're rebuilding it. The other adjustment screws are no different than any other carb. In my opinion, going non-computer is a big mistake.