Drastius

I am currently pulling an LT1 out of a 95 Caprice and have a couple of questions.

1. Which parts of the ignition system do I have to remove and install in my thirdgen to satisfy the VATS system?

2. I see that some of you have removed the EGR and air pump systems and I was wondering what modifications were done to the wiring harness? Did you simply cut those lines? or short them?

Thank you for your help.

LT1Powered85Z

If I were you I'd just jump the VATS within the ECM or have it done for you by a willing shop, of some sort. A lot easier, IMO.

About the wiring...I used an aftermarket harness...so I didn't have to worry about either of those things. The one I used was made to fit what I wanted and what I did and didn't have. It's a lot easier that way.

Good luck. Check out my website if you have any more questions. http://lt1powered85z.cz28.com

Eric

Drastius

I was thinking about buying a harness, but they are like 500-700 dollars US. That's 1 grand Canadian. Gonna need that money for my stroker kit, so i'm going to end up just modifying the original harness.

Thanks for the input.

mat89RS

Very easy to answer !

1. for vats, well you need to take the Passkey module, install a resistence in it equal to the one that was with the key that was making the lt1 start. if you don't know well there's 13 possible resistence. mike was 513 ohms, you will need to connect the passkey module to the "starter enable relay" hidden in the driver kick panel "very well hidden in a big chuck of sticky sh*t" (took me 3 hours to find it.) you will need to connect the passkey to the ECM on wire .

Also I don't know if your car has VATS already (89-above) but the old VATS module or passkey is located in the center of the dash ... it's very hard to reach, 3 bolts holding it in place, just behind the AC control/heater. you can use the old harness that goes to it and change all the wires on it because the pin setup is very different in passkey I or passkey II. (see below)

VATS 16 pin (passkey II)
|------------------------|
A8| [] [] [] [] [] [] [] []| A1
B8| [] [] [] [] [] [] [] []| B1
|------------------------|

Slot Wire Color Description
A1 Orn Power feed from ECM BAT fuse #4
A2 Pnk Power feed from ECM IGN fuse #5
A3 DK BLU Fuel enable signal
A4 YEL/BLK Starter enable relay control
A5 GRY "Security" indicator lamp control
B5 BLK/WHT Ground
B7 PPL/WHT Ignition key resistor return
B8 WHT/BLK Ignition key resistor feed


A3. goes to ECM, on connector E of BLUE connector on LT1 harness
A4 goes to the enable starter relay.
(see below)

| | Top Blue 10 pin on LT1 harness
|K|J|H|G|F|
|A|B|C|D|E|

K is TAN/BLK and is (Automatic) torque converter clutch control.
J is ORN/BLK and is (Automatic) park/neutral feed from transmission position switch.
NOTE: If this vehicle is manuel the wire would be LT GRN and would be (manuel) backup lamp feed.
H is LT BLU/BLK and is (Automatic) TCC switched power feed.
NOTE: If this vehicle is manuel the would be be BRN and be (manuel) power from turn B/U fuse # 2 to backup switch and would be brown.
G is PNK and power feed from ECM IGN fuse # 5
F is DK GRN/WHT and is A/C request signal
E is DK BLU and is theft deterrent - fuel enable feed.
D is WHT and is techometer signal to instrument cluster.
C is WHT/BLK and is diagnostic request signal.
B is service engine soon indicator feed.
A is empty.


2. I did remove all the smog pump setup, it's working fine, your ECM wont even notice . you will have to use headers or older chevy small block exaust manifold.

tell me if you need more explaination, I know it's technicalbut hey !, it works and it's free !

mat89RS

I wrote "mike was 513 ohms" oups !! mike doesn't have an lt1, who's mike anyway ??. I meant "mine was 513 ohms"

Drastius

Cool, thanks for the info, it is appreciated.