FireDemonSiC

Does anyone have documentation, or better yet, a photo illustration of how to weld in the O2 bungs on a set of Hooker 2210 longtubes?

I've read that they are supposed to go in at the top of the collectors, but have also been told that they need to be at an angle for the sensor(s) to clear the floor. I plan on welding two bungs into the driver side (For narrowband and wideband sensors) and a single bung into the passenger side (For second wideband).

Many thanks in advance.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

With a nb you should run a heated 3 wire, here's another option.
https://m.summitracing.com/search/Pa...-Included/Yes/

Biledriver

You really should install the headers and mark where they will not interfere with anything. The sensors could hit the floor trans starter or any other unexpected part without a test fit. Especially trying to fit so many. You could put one at a y pipe or x pipe down stream to avoid doing 2 wide bands maybe.

FireDemonSiC

Correct. I did this conversion years ago.

FireDemonSiC

Test fit is unfortunately not possible at this time. Old exhaust is still on the car and I don't have access to a lift yet. I suppose I could attempt to shoehorn one into place, but the old exhaust is still all there. I'll be taking the headers to my friend's this weekend to weld the bungs in.

FireDemonSiC

Also, 700R4 with a Hitachi style ministarter, FWIW.

TORN

iTrader: (17)

Just my opinion but I would weld it into the collect just past the header on the exhaust side. Also as already said change the non heated single wire NB o2 over the a Heated 3 wire setup.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

You don't need a lift, just a sturdy set of jack stands. Doing a fit up and marking hole locations was very good advice.

FireDemonSiC

I agree but as stated, the old exhaust is still on the car. I was just looking for some photos of anyone who has done it.

I am sure I could get away with doing it on jackstands, but with longtubes I'd rather have a lift if possible.

Biledriver

Welding them into the collector is a good idea, then you could rotate them to avoid obstacles when the exhaust shop does the pipes.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Lets set this straight, weld the bung onto the reducer that gets bolted onto the header, not the header itself. Then just remove the old exhaust system and bolt on the headers and then bolt on the reducers with the O2 bung welded in. Rotate the reducer to the correct angle and then put the O2 sensor in. You can drive it to the exhaust shop but count on it staying in open loop until you get some pipe after the sensor.