Camaro_nut

Nah, no problems man! No confusion. You just got misinformed.
I've gotten misinformed a lot.

At least now you know. Cause I don't think that any car
company would make a 6th gear for no reason.

chopper

yeah I hear that. It would no doubt be pretty stupid.

MrDude_1

i got this in a PM this morning, i might as well post it and make it public.



quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

********* wrote on 04-15-2004 05:44 PM:
hey mr.dude im new to the forum...but not to the 3rd gen camaro. read your write up about the t56 and was wondering just one thing...do you have to change your torque arm along with the tranny xmember or just the xmember. i was leaning more towards spohns xmember and saw the torque arm package and all and was like dang didn't think of that.

thanks and excellent write up...glad to be apart of an excellent forum

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------





if you keep the stock 4thgen TQ arm mount on the trans, then you can use any of the later 3rdgen or 4thgen stock TQ arms. the 82-83 (and possibly 84 im not sure) are diffrent, but after that, they're the same until 2002.

so you dont NEED to use the aftermarket TQ arm... you can just get a regular T56 crossmember, then slip the stock arm in the t56 bracket.


but if you ever plan on moving to a aftermarket torque arm that attaches to the crossmember, nows the time to do it.

im still running the stock arm from my 91.

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

by doing this do you still have to shorten the torque arm???

david auster

iTrader: (10)

Can somebody tell me where the calibration switches on the SGI-5 are supposed to be for a 94-97 T-56 with a 3.42 rear end ratio. I'm also running 275-40-17 tires if that matters.

Thanks

MrDude_1

no.
no.
no.
no.
no.



not really because of all the variables, you cant really set it a specifc way.. if you could i would have posted all the stuff ive used.

if you can find one of thoes "your speed is:" radar signs you can set it by yourself.
otherwise, get a friend with a new car to set his cruise to 60 or somthing like that, then pace him the best you can... note your speed.

first set them like this:


then go find your actual speed by the radar sign or the pacing your friend method.

then take your actual speed, and divide it by your what your speedo says. this will give you a decimal number.

look up the decimal number in the chart and you'll get where to set your switches.


with my tires, and a 3.42 gear i got .666 so im running:

FireRed91Z28

just need some clarification of this as my tranny finally is here

"the next part is the reverse lockout.
if you look under the dash at your brake switch, you will see 3 wires. mine were yellow, somthing (red i think) and blue. connect a thick wire to either of the outer wires... i used 12gauge wire.. this wire will have power whenever the brake is on.
take one more piece of 12 gauge and put it to a solid ground. i used the same ground as somthing else used under the center console... its nothing more then a screw that goes into a piece thats spot welded to the floor... but its a good ground.

now hook the two wires up to the connector that goes to the reverselockout noid... this is the connector thats right next to the shifter on the drivers side. up at the top rear of the trans.
make sure nothing is shorted, then reconnect the battery. "


what wires? where do i hook them up? im just confused on what you're trying to tell me to do?
thanks

MrDude_1

what you want to do is have it so that you cannot shift to reverse unless the brake is on. i later added a small black push button to the left side of the dash so that the brake had to be on and the button was pressed for it to go into reverse.



take off the kick cover under the dash and look at the brake pedal arm.
up under the dash, you should see where the arm pushes in a switch. when you dont have your foot pressing the brake in, the brake is holding this switch in.
this is the switch you want to tap into.

if i had a digi cam, id take a pic to show you.

TKOPerformance

Thanks a ton for that idea! I had the reverse lockout on a button on a T-handle shifter, but I decided that I don't like the T-handle, and am switching to a **** instead. I was up in the air about how to set up the reverse lockout. Now I know! Thanks again MrDude_1!

FireRed91Z28

ok im doin the swap today!!!!

where should the jackstands for the front of the car be place?

i do not have a tranny jack, where should i position the jack on the 700R4 to lower it out?
where should i position the jack on the T56 to raise it in?

approx how high does the car need to be jacked to make room to take out and slide in the new tranny?


please if anyone reads this try to respond quickly...time is money

MrDude_1

wherever its stable and strong.

put a piece of plywood to spread the weight out over the jack, then put it under the pan. have the wood be large enough to reach across the pan from edge to edge.. its the edges that are strong.



about the middle, wherever it has to be to balance
a friend helps.



too high to work on... just drop the trans, and when its time to slide it out, raise the car higher, and pull it out.

FireRed91Z28

ok another thing ppl forget to post...what do i do with the feed and return lines from the auto/radiator?
i know i must remove them and cap them off buyt with what do i cap them off? any special thing? sizes? anything? getting cloudy looks like rain but i will work rain or shine but would like to get everything out before. another speedy response will be appreciated.
thanks

MrDude_1

i didnt bother to cap mine.

if you really felt the need, theres probly a fitting you could screw in... take the cut end piece of cooler line to NAPA or the hardware store and see if anything matches.

FireRed91Z28

another thing....as i am agravated as hell.....how the hell do i get the bolts to remove the bellhousing from the engine? i got the the first lowest ones on each side..havnt tride the second one up on the pass side yet as for prob 2-3 hours ive been trying to get the secong one up on the drivers side. the floorpan is in the way and i can not get an extension with a swivel up in there? and i read there are 2 MORE bolts up ontop of the bellhousing...how would i get those, i cant even see them right now

FireRed91Z28

oh and i have lowered the tranny, tilted the engine as far as it will go and still cant get that bolt. found the top pass side bolt cant see the top driver side bolt and the middle driverside bolt is still unreachable...if they mad sockets that were half the length of normal ones then it would fit but they dont or i havnt ever seen one. its dark out and i got everything lit up please help!

Camaro_nut

Are you using a long (3-4ft.) 3/8" drive extension,
or a 1/2" drive extension? That will make a difference.
You will need to use a swivel socket, but not a 13mm(example)
socket AND swivel. You will need the actual swivel sockets
themselves. If you are using a just a swivel with a socket
attached to that, it may hurt you more than help you.
It's not easy to get to those top bolts anyways, but I
hope this helped you somewhat. Good luck. Relax. Take
a break, there's always another day.

Also, it may be easier to remove the distributor so you
can tilt the engine even more. Just make sure you mark
where the position of the distributor was before you take
it out. It also helps to see where the rotor was lined up to
as well. You still may need to recheck the timing, but I
think these extra steps may help you.

TKOPerformance

You'll have to get the socket on it by feel. It's a 9/16s socket. Use about three long extensions and one u-joint so the you're spinning the rachet at the back of the trans. An impact gun makes this a lot easier, but I've done it with just a rachet.

Some guys have luck going in through the engine comaprtment. The bolts you need to get to are just below the cylinder heads opn the back of the block. I find this method is good for 4WD trucks and TBI/carb motors, but the mass of the TPI makes it too difficult, so I just go over top of the trans as noted above.

I stick my jackstands under the front frame stubs and right in front of the LCAs front mount in the rear.

The fitting for the auto trans line is metric I believe and they are a bit tricky to find plugs for. Try NAPA, they always seem to have them. I always plug them, just for a clean look. Not necessary strictly speaking though.

FireRed91Z28

alright thanks...i guess ill be working in the rain tomorow. just got out of the shower 10:35PM, stopped working at 10:30 and started at 1:30. a good hour was spent just gettin the damn thing on jack stands cause my jack wouldnt lift the pumkin high enough so i had to individually jack up each side. then had to make a few tool runs good 1/2 hour or so and the rest of my time was mainly spent on trying to remove the bellhousing bolts 3 down 3 to go which seem to be the hardest ones. the top pass side one just wont budge using the 20" extension and universal joint that i have. one i cant seem to get to and the other i cant even see and i hope ill be able to fit my arms up in the small gaps to try to feel for it. ive been using 14mm socket but ill try the 9/16.
well im off to get some well needed food at wendys, ill most likely be back tomorow with questions
thanks for the help

d10pins

iTrader: (1)

does anyone know how many teeth are on the t56 speedo gear off of an 95 Z28. thanks darin

FireRed91Z28

alright one bolt left on the auto and its the middle one up on the drivers side...i just cant get a socket or wrench to fit 9in there cause of the floor board. what should i use? what could i do? the engine wont tilt any more.

Camaro_nut

You may need a breaker bar ( long bar with flex like end)
preferred a 1/2" drive size for more leverage and power.
You will need a long extension and still can only use a
swivel socket 9/16" (?). You may have to remove the
distributor as a stated earlier. So you can gain more tilt
with the transmission, and more access to the bolt. You will
have to try to get your hand up there with the socket
in hand, and go by feel until it's on the bolt. I can't
explain any better. But I hope good luck. Be patient.
You WILL get it off.

Camaro_nut

chopper

As far as I know there are no teeth on a 95 t56. It runs off of a digital sensor called the vss or vehicle speed sensor. Hope that helps.

TKOPerformance

Exactly. The VSS in a T56 doesn't use a gear at all. It has a magnetic pickup that reads off a reluctor wheel. It works just like an ABS sensor in a differential.

FireRed91Z28

alright now whats goin on...i drilled out the holes bigger in the factory clutch pedal assembly from the 94 donor car and the bolt that is supposed to bolt into the top part of the assembly wont fit. i looked under and either the assembly is bent in a way or they come like that. what i mean is the two hole are supposed to line up together so that i can put the bolt in but they are off by a 3/4 of the hole size. did anyone have this problem? oh to further clearify which mount, its the one that bolts above the steering column above the massive clutter of wires.

FireRed91Z28

also...how do i remove the torque converter and flywheel? i hope this isnt fixable....BUT when i was yanking out the old tranny it looks as if i bent the shafte the to TQ converter and flywheel are on. well it is bent im guessing cause of the weight of the tranny and me yanking down on it....what have i done? is this shaft replaceable? can i do it myself from under the car?

FireRed91Z28

anyone? i would like to continue on to DAY 4: of my project but i need to know whats up with this bent shaft? oh and i meant "i hope this IS fixable".....

also dont worry about the clutch pedal assembly problem...i fixed it

Camaro_nut

Ok, you need to remove the splash sheild that sits under
front of the trans. Next, you can remove the torque converter
bolts. You will have to use a big pry bar to rotate the torque
converter to get to each bolt. Either that way, or you can
also have someone turn the crank with a long 1/2" drive
ratchet or breaker bar. By turning the crank I mean get
a socket for the crank pulley on the engine, and just turn
the motor. It doesn't matter can you go in either direction.
The bolt shouldn't free up on it's own if you go to the left.
But just in case, turn the motor clockwise.

Once all the torque converter bolts are removed, the trans
can now be removed. The flywheel is bolted directly to the
engine, so the trans. needs to come out first. As far as
a bent input shaft, why are you worried about it if you are
going to swap in a T-56? That shaft is part of the 700R4 trans.
If you don't care about the old trans, don't worry about it
at all. That input shaft can be replaced anyways with a
special tool. I highly recommend a trans. tech do that!

FireRed91Z28

ok i think you misunderstood where im at. i have the 700r4 off but tq converter and flywheel are still on engine, on some shaft that the tranny's input shaft went into. this shaft that they are on is BENT. heres a pic i drew to show what i mean

FireRed91Z28

forgot to mention, will this shaft come off with the tq converter and flywheel? will i need it seeing im swapping in a T56? if i do need it (as i think i would cause where are the splines from the input shaft on the 6 spd gonna mate to)?

please help quick!

FireRed91Z28

i wish i could just remember everything i needed to say....

the shaft that looks bent is bent before the flywheel seeing as when i look at it all, the flywheel now is tilted downwards comparing it to the oil pan. before it was evenly distant all around from the oil pan but now it is tilted and you can see where it isnt equally spaced from the oil pan. i really really really hope i didnt mess anything up that i will need with the new tranny.

how many bolts are on the converter? they are bolted to the flywheel correct?



another problem i seem to be running into: i have the 4th gen clutch pedal assem. but when i bolted it all up i saw that when i push the clutch all the way, it does not push in the black switch behind the clutch pedal all the way. what is this switch and does it need to be pushed in all the way?
now thinking about it, if this is happening wouldnt that mean that i am not pushing the master cylinder all the way therefor not disengaging the clutch all the way? has anyone had this problem? why would it be happening? anyway to fix it?

Clutch_Grabwell

Question about the slave cylinder...
I'm installing a new master/ slave unit purchased from GM. The tip of the slave plunger is strapped to the body with what looks like a Ty-wrap. This looks like something that should be removed before bolting everything together.
The plastic boot over the end of the plunger fits the impression in the throwout fork. Leaving it there seems like a good idea. Should I clip the straps before tightening everything together or remove the whole thing prior to assembly?

Thanks
CG

FireRed91Z28

well the shaft i am talking about is my CRANK so now i gotta replace that and with that all my main bearings....fun fun....i can do that from under the car correct? like just remove the oil pan and i can access everything from there?

still need help on my latest question about the clutch pedal assembly....whats up with it?

d10pins

iTrader: (1)

what kind of help to you need??

FireRed91Z28

i posted my pedal problem i think 2 posts up

d10pins

iTrader: (1)

the switch is just to start the car up. its like a safety switch. does the bracket look bent or anything. i put 4th gen pedals in my 89 camaro and had no problem, but i used my own gas pedal because the pedal was to close to the brake pedal.

FireRed91Z28

nice, i did the same but to save me work when putting in the new assembly. i hacked off the gas pedal off the new assembly and retained my original one. as far as i could see, nothing was bent.
i havnt hooked or cut the hole for the master cylinder yet but im thinking if im having a problem where the pedal is not being pressed all the way then that would mean i am not disengaging the clutch all the way. how could i fix this problem? why would i be having this problem? and has anyone had this problem using the 4th gen pedals?

TKOPerformance

Clutch,

You can leave that plastic thing on the end of the slave until you are ready to bolt it to the bellhousing. Then just remove it and install the slave. It's just there to keep it compressed. You won't get air in the system or anything if it is removed.

Fire,

The switch on the clutch pedal is a clutch interlock switch. Take the thick yellow and purple wire that used to go to the switch inside the console on the shifter and run them to the interlock switch. Sometimes the purple wire is green instead, but the wires are clearly thicker than the others, so they are easy to pick out.

FireRed91Z28

another clutch pedal assembly Q:

there is a white switch infront of the clutch pedal that when the clutch is pressed down the switch is released. what is this switch and do i need it? no one seemed to mention anything about it?

another Q:

on my brake assembly there are 2 switches one on top of another that are engaged/released when the brake is pressed down. one has one single plug outlet and the other has 2 plug outlets. what are these for? do i need both of them? my car was equipped with cruise control so id think one of these has something to do with stopping it??

TKOPerformance

There should be a switch on the clutch pedal for the cruise control. There should be two switches on the brake pedal. One is a vaccum valve for the cruise control. The other is a multi-function switch for the cruise control and the brake lights. If you want that stuff to function then they all need to be connected. Since you're using 4th gen pedals I can't give you wire to wire splices, because the coloring has changed. I used 3rd gen pedals, so I just wired the car up like it was a stick car from the factory.

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

i have 4th gen pedals and want/need cruise control and everything working anyone help before i do this also anyone have a used non usable flywheel i can use for a core ill pay...core is 120 and flywheel is 60

d10pins

iTrader: (1)

I HAVE 2 FLY WHEELS DO YOU NEED FOR AN AUTO OR MANUAL??

FireRed91Z28

alright, i do not care for cruise control so what can i discard? the switch on the clutch and the vaccum switch on the brake? if so that leaves me with the one brake light switch (and the clutch safety/start switch) correct?

d10pins

iTrader: (1)

yes, thats correct.

FireRed91Z28

alright what does the clutch fork throwout bearing look like? a PIC would be best buut anything to help me point it out as im not sure if i have it?

TKOPerformance

The TO bearing is an integral part of the T56 pressure plate assembly. It isn't a seperate bearing like traditional Chevy bearings. It's round with four flats cut into it. The fork seats in one of the sets of flats. The best part is that you have basically little to no access to the bearing once it is installed, so spinning it to get the fork lined up is a major PITA. A long, thin scredriver has always been my weapon of choice for the task.

BTW, make sure that the fork isn't seated on the t-stud on the back of the trans before you install the trans. The fork rides on a t-stud that is bolted through the fork to the back of the trans case. The fork has a clip that holds it on the head of the t-stud. The fork shouldn't be clipped onto the head prior to installation. Just let it hang loose. If you clip it in it will crush the TO bearing into the p. plate and put everything under tension. You will probably have to pull the trans again to correct the problem.

FireRed91Z28

let me just say the project is all most finished thanks for all the help...its 12:35 AM and i have to work at 7 tomorow and i look like a black dude hyped up on caffein (lots of coffee and lots of grease). but ill be back tomorow...today i guess for any help i may need with wiring....oh and damn, those new pilot bearings are a b*tch to work with.

FireRed91Z28

now what.....did anyone forget to mention i need a new starter??? im finished and was doin the last thing...boltin the starter back in and it doesnt seem to fit... 91 Z28 350 was an Auto.....am i goin to have to buy another starter? what kind and how much am i gonna spend?

Camaro_nut

Grind some off the stock starter to clear. That's the cheap
way. The correct and more expensive way is to buy a high
torque mini starter. Usually around $200 and up. But if you
look on Ebay, they can go for as cheap as $100 new. But, I
never trust Ebay for stuff like that. It's up to you. I would
just grind down the stock starter to fit for now. Worry about
using a more attractive mini starter later, if looks are a concern.

FireRed91Z28

grinding it is thanks