Conradzz

So I've searched left and right and can't find any insight to my problem. I just recently traded for a 92 firebird, and am fixing small problems here and there. When I got the car the hatch pulldown motor didn't work. I pulled it apart and the gear nut was busted, so I went ahead and ordered a new one. Well, while waiting for the nut, I cleaned everything up, and tested the electrical parts, everything seemed fine.

I just got the nut in yesterday, lubed everything up, and installed it. Now when I got the car there were a bunch of small peices in a bag, it looked like someone was in the process of fixing the hatch. There was a new reversing switch in there, as well as a new metal latch with the spiral gear on it. So I used both use pieces in rebuilding it. Well, the motor will go up, and down but in a weird way. Its almost as if the reverse switch is going in reverse.

When the switch is pointed down, the assembly moves up, against the switch. When its up, it tries to move down, so the switch never gets flipped because its already flipped. The motor will keep pulling until it bends the bottom tab. I've tried every which way to get this thin gto work right. I even pushed the paddle switch down to make it seem like the hatch is closed, and it just pushes the hatch up. I managed to get the hatch to pull down when the switch is in the wrong direction, and then I hit the hatch button up frnot, and it just tries to pull it down more.

I've messed with it for hours now swapping out parts, and trying to get it to work, and have come up with nothing. I should also note that its the model with the tan plastic assembly. If anyone has any insight I'd greatly appreciate it.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Your search didn't include checking out the vast library of Tech Articles that exist on Thirdgen.org.

The switch is working correctly. Follow the Tech Article on repairing the 86-87 & 88-91 pull-down units that I wrote that is posted under General Repair Category of the Tech Articles on Thirdgen.org. You can also download the instructions for the TDS 101170 aftermarket guides from the lower left side of my web site under "documentation".

In the article I mention installing the gearnut 7.5 turns on the threaded end of the lift rod. This is done so the two tabs on the lift rod will be positioned so that you can easily install the reversing switch. Flip the switch down on the reversing switch, then install it and secure it with the phillips screw to the clear plastic motor housing. When you install power to the unit the motor will power the latch assy up. The lower tab on the lift rod will flip the switch on the reversing switch up to shut off the motor. When the striker-sensing switch is pressed the motor will power down. The upper tab on the lift rod will flip the switch on the reversing switch down to shut off the motor. The motor will ONLY power down while the striker-sensing switch is pressed.

Lon

Conradzz

So, I'm trying to not take that statement as rude. I actually have read your Articles, and have done exactly as your installation instructions say. Now, doing exactly as you say, the latch should move up right? It doesn't it moves down instead, which I tried to convey in the title of this thread.

I have tested both paddle switches with my multimeter, and they both work in the same manner, and I have tested both reverse switches, and they also work the same. Having said all of this, I'm still back at square one, with no solution.

So again, if anyone has any insight as to why my reverse switch would be working in reverse, I'd greatly appreciate it.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Your original description of how your switch is working IS how it is supposed to function. Again, I'll take you through an entire cycle of the pull-down unit. The hatch is open, the hatch motor is in the full up position. At this point the lever on the reversing switch is up. Press and hold down the striker-sensing switch (to simulate the hatch hook latched in the pull-down unit). The motor will turn on and power the lift rod down until the upper tab on the rod flips the lever. This shuts off the motor. The lever is now in the down position. Release the striker-sensing switch (simulating the latch on the hatch pull-down unit releasing the hatch hook). The motor will power up all the way until the lower tab of the lift rod flips the lever of the reversing switch to end the up cycle and shut off the motor. Are you making sure that the lever of the reversing switch is between the two tabs of the lift rod? Installing the gear nut with 7.5 turns positions the lift rod in a mid-cycle position that makes it easy to install the reversing switch IF you flip the lever down before attempting to install it.

Again in a nutshell: reversing switch lever down = motor powers up, reversing swtich lever up = motor powers up (When you press and hold down the striker-sensing switch).

Call me if you need further instruction on this. I have rebuilt hundreds of these (including one just two hours ago).

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
626-369-0040

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, I just noticed you are talking about a late 91-92 style motor. My description was for the 86-early 91 style hatch motor and reversing switch. I have a remanufactured 91-92 style in stock. I'll take a look at it and return shortly.

Lon

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

The late 91-92 pull-down reversing switch functions the same way. Switch flipped up, the latch powers down until the upper tab flips the switch down. When the switch is in the down position the motor is ready to power up until the lower tab flips the switch up ending the up cycle. Make sure that you position the lever of the reversing switch is in between these two tabs that stick out of the lift rod.

Lon Salgren

Conradzz

Ok so, I just came back in from messing with it again. I apologize for stating it incorrectly in my first post, when the switch is down, the whole thing actually moves down. Not up, and when the switch is up, it moves up. The switch is between the two tabs, and still does the same thing. I have tested the motor, and it works fine, hot to left terminal spins counterclockwise, hot to right, clockwise.

I'm not sure what it could be, I actually tried switching the hot and ground that go to the reverse switch, and it just blows fuses. The only possible thing I think it could be is the reverse switch, I've tested everything else.

Also another thing I thought I'd mention, if I pull the relay that is a few inches from the assembly, it doesn't affect anything. I'm assuming though the relay is just for powering the lights.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

As I discussed in our telecon, I believe the motor is the problem. You told me it had been disassembled. I suspect the brushes are in backward. Check the rotation of the motor and compare it to the info I gave you. I have good used 91.5-92 motors available if you need it.

Lon

Conradzz

I tested the motor lon, it spins in the exact same direction as yours. Not to mention you can't mix up the brushes in these motors, one arm is short and one long. It won't fit in any other way. I do appreciate your help, I just really feel the motor isn't the issue here.

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

You can send it to me to diagnose and repair. I charge $20/hr plus any parts that are needed. I'll contact you with the repair diagnosis before I proceed, so you are looking at a minimum of just the $20 for the diagnosis plus shipping both ways.

Lon Salgren

Conradzz

I think I'll just take one of these reverse switches apart, and see if something is bad inside of them. I'm an electrician, and also work on electronics.

CavEngineer

Did you ever figure out the problem? I'm in the same situation; everything seems to operate backwards. I'm really trying to get this thing fixed.

CavEngineer

Just in case some one is looking over this thread, if you mount the motor housing (the part with the permanent magnets on it) 180 degrees off, the motor will spin backwards. That turned out to be my problem. The stupid thing is that the bolt holes still line up when the motor housing is mounted incorrectly, so you have to be careful about reassembly.