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1) My oil gauge is stuck BELOW the 'zero', as pictured.
2) I need to replace some of the indicator bulbs, an am unsure how to do so
3) Finally, I need to fix the broken trip meter.
IIRC, the voltage range is from 0-5v so you may be able to test the oil gauge without the sensor once you open up the cluster. You may be able to verify that by searching this site.
Be careful removing the light bulbs if the flex circuit looks old/worn as they tend to de-laminate and can tear.
I wonder if the oil pressure gauge needle is just stuck behind the bezel ??
I've had that happen with a couple of Temp gages in the past and it looks like the oil pressure needle is shown in about the right spot to be caught between the housing and bezel.
I wonder if the oil pressure gauge needle is just stuck behind the bezel ??
I've had that happen with a couple of Temp gages in the past and it looks like the oil pressure needle is shown in about the right spot to be caught between the housing and bezel.
You were correct! This was the issue.
Thanks to everyone for their help! Special thanks to James for the very helpful links, thank you sir!
TOOK OUT CLUSTER PANEL OUT, PUT NEW 194'S IN, PUT BACK AND NO LIGHTS ON INSTRUMENT PANEL? GAUGES, DIRECTIONALS, AND OTHER INDICATORS WORK??? WHAT TO DO? 5 AMP FUSE IS GOOD? IS THERE ANOTHER FUSE? AND WHERE AT?
TOOK OUT CLUSTER PANEL OUT, PUT NEW 194'S IN, PUT BACK AND NO LIGHTS ON INSTRUMENT PANEL? GAUGES, DIRECTIONALS, AND OTHER INDICATORS WORK??? WHAT TO DO? 5 AMP FUSE IS GOOD? IS THERE ANOTHER FUSE? AND WHERE AT?
PUT A BRAND NEW HEADLIGHT SWITCH IN. I AM UNABLE TO TELL IF DIMMER SWITCH WORKS BECAUSE THERE ARE "ZERO" LIGHTS ON 4 NEW BULBS. I ALSO REPLACED THE AUTOMATIC SHIFTER BULB WHICH ALSO DOES NOT LIGHT UP???
CLUSTER HAS THOSE GUIDE PEGS I HOPE IT LINES UP???
It looks like you're missing 2-4 bulbs, I can see the imprints from being used. Otherwise if not the dimmer then you can meter the traces back to the main connectors for continuity, -that said they look to be in really good shape. Otherwise check power from the connectors at the dash. It might be the new bulbs as well so check them too.
I think the pegs that you are referring to are the electronic connectors to the dash.
It could be, but if you can't see that if it's clearly broken, you would need a meter to verify it. You can visually follow the lead to the bulb, and then also to where it plugs into the dash. A diagram of the pin out for your cluster will tell you what it is and where it goes to. From what I can see on the cluster, it looks like it only goes to the one bulb which appears to be in parallel and not affect anything else.
We acquired a 1991 RS Camaro that was an original V6 car. The previous owner did a V8 swap. The installation was far from perfect. We had to put a complete engine harness in the car, and now because they hacked the dash cluster harness to install an after market digital dash cluster, we are unable to use the digital dash for accuracy. We have purchased a 91 dash cluster off ebay to replace the digital one. We had an 89 donor car that we used the connectors to marry the cluster to the wiring harness. Through trial and error, we have been unable to get the dash cluster to work. We have used the pinout diagram as a guide to ensure wires are correctly placed. Here are my questions:
1. Is the connector from the 89 compatible with the dash cluster from a 91? It seems to fit..but the plugs do not seem to want to stay connected to the cluster. I have looked online, and cannot find the answer to this question.
2. I read the sending units may be the cause..but i need more information about this. I read that if you do an engine swap, the sending units will not match the dash cluster. The post stated that we would need to find the correct sending units for motor. Does anyone know about this?
3. If you have any suggestions on what the problem could be, any feedback would be appreciated!!
Last edited by ChristinaMarie; 09-06-2015 at 09:05 PM.
Reason: misspelling
07-27-2015, 10:45 PM
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