Pocket

iTrader: (24)

This thread goes over updating your swap to the new style cruise units. The cruise unit can be had from most any GM car of the 90's and 00's. Use a custom or LS1 cable and the parts hunting will be done. Be sure to take a peek at the cruise connector before you grab it. LS1s use all the pins in the connector, some cars pick and choose. This thread will cover units which use all pins as they are the most common and diagrams are plentiful

First, remove the cruise miniharness from the 3rd gen. 2 connectors will be reused along with the stock grommet. L to R: Signal lever connector, brake sw, cruise connector


Next build the harness


The 3rd gen cruise only used the open when depressed brake switch, the new unit requires both open and closed when brake is depressed so an extra wire must go inside and tie into the brake lights

Automatic cars will have a open when depressed brake switch wire running to the PCM already. I see no need to run a second specifically for the cruise. Manual cars need it as well as a clutch switch

It should look like this in the end. Near the cruise connector the necessary splices are inhibit, engage, IGN, GRD, VSS signal


Both LTx and LSx PCMs use the same names, colors and signals to control the cruise units so this should be universal

I installed an inline connector to make removal easier. I dont like resoldering wires just to remove/install something

Additional diagrams/info
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...driven-tb.html
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...se_control.jpg
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport..._indicator.jpg

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

I have this on my swap and it works great!

-jason

3.1EyeCandy

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info! Bookmarking this one for when my pocketbook catches back up to my eyes.

TexasLT1

Thanks for the info. Been wanting to put it back on for a while now.

screeminchicken

iTrader: (2)

This may be stupid but when you mean digital....are you refering to dbw?
Does this also apply to cars that came without cruise control?

My 82 didnt have cc and would definatley like to try !

TexasLT1

You would have to do more wiring and install a cruise control stalk on the steering column or use a standalone control for it.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

When referring to aftermarket control, you really just need a 4k PPM to the unit. If your car has a electric speedo, than you are set.

I hooked mine out without any inputs from the PCM. I am going to grab another one so I can put it in my TPI car.

-jason

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Newer units are digital, meaning fully electronic. Older units are vacuum controlled. DBW is a completely different setup and doesnt need a separate cruise unit

Nab a new stalk with the cruise wire from a JY or parts store, then get the underdash connectors and you can update really easily

Interesting. I know the truck units dont use engage/inhibit signals, but was unaware LS1 units could pick and choose. That being said, a real easy way to get the 4000ppm signal to the engine bay would be to splice the cruise wire to the speedo wire at the buffer box for older cars(Red to Brown). Then its add the IGN/GRD and the rest of the wires are reused from the 3rd gen cruise

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

I should clarify, I used a box from a 4.3L S10 blazer

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Update to this, I think my caddy module is toast because all of my signals are present and tested but no function

Anyways heres how I mounted the module and modified the cable

Down low on the frame rail. Min clearance of 2" from the exhaust


Cadillac cable showing its too short when installed in the LS1 bracket


Cadillac cable vs truck cable lengths


Cut the end off both and run the longer cable through the shorter sleeve. Attach to the TB stud and mark where your stop needs to go


Ring terminal cut off and the crimp base crushed and soldered onto the cable. Excess length is trimmed off


Finished. Be sure the cable is NOT tight when at 0 throttle. It will cause idle issues from the TB being pulled open slightly. If your stop moved slightly causing it to go tight, the attachment clip is adjustable for minor changes


Ill try again with a later truck module. I know Im close

nobreaks254

I've been looking into cruise as I get closer to finishing my swap. I copied this from an Ebay ad. Tell me what you make of it.

THIS ITEM IS A USED CRUISE CONTROL MOTOR AND CABLE FOR VARIOUS 93-02 CAMAROS AND FIREBIRDS. THIS UNIT CAN ONLY BE USED WITH ONE OF THE SAME SERVICE # AND CODE. THIS PARTICULAR ONE IS "25140823 J" CODE "RB". IF YOU USE ONE WITH A DIFFERENT SERVICE # AND CODE, IT MAY NOT FUNCTION AT ALL, CAUSE ERRATIC ACCELERATION, MAY NOT DISENGAGE, CAUSE SLOW (OR QUICK) ACCELERATION, ETC., SO MAKE SURE THIS IS THE SERVICE # YOU NEED. SOLD AS IS.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Sounds like the seller trying to push his auction over anything generic you find elsewhere. The cruise system's fail-safe is to disengage, so the only problem that may occur if the seller wasnt full of himself, would be no function

Since several people on this board and 'tech have successfully gotten a random cruise module to work on various applications, both swap related and classic SBC, Id say the module type is irrelevant as long as its minimum required inputs are met. IE trucks dont need engage/inhibit signals but some newer units do. It doesnt make sense for GM to order a different module for each engine/vehicle when the supplier can make one body and apply it to pretty much everything offering a few updates over the years to keep up with new technology

Im nearly positive my unit is simply cooked

nobreaks254

Just got my cruise module from a 2001 Camaro but it didnt come with the electrical connector. The local JY says I need one from a F body only. I think he full of BS. What common cars would have a connector that would work? I'm pretty sure trucks dont use all the pins.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Mine is from a Cadillac. Just go around and unplug cruise units until you find one with all the pins

I wouldnt take specific advice from a JY mechanic. Ask them simple things like what cars came with a 3.8 or something. Which connector to use for a specific electrical component is a stretch

Truck modules can be used as well, just grab the connector with them and swap whatever cable you're running over. The diagram will be the same as above, with the missing pin wires omitted. IIRC the PCM pins and one of the brake signals are missing

Update on my cruise, the wiring and module were fine. My brake switch wasnt pressed in all the way

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

grab two from a truck... install the extra pin (s) you need in one from the other

or grab one from any fwd car they used the enable pins too

you can even grab the connector from many imports too kia, ect use the same cruise

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Sort of subscribing but I think this is the connector for the cruise from Mouser


Click the image

If you look at the data sheet here you can find the terminals too, but there are a lot available based on the wire sizes and insulations so you have to pick the right one

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

So on a manual car, you say the clutch pedal also needs a "open when depressed" switch as well as on the brake. Do these two switches just get wired in series on the clutch pedal and brake pedal?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Yes, like this
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/mkport...se_control.jpg

Difference is the digital cruise needs the opposite action switch in addition to those on the brake. This is accomplished by tapping into a tail light wire

Brando5641

iTrader: (-1)

H DK GREEN CRUISE INHIBIT <<--- Is this pin needed? I'm getting mixed reviews on if its needed or not. I have a cruise mod. out of a 4.3 blazer and it has 9 pins (missing H). I'm looking at my pinout for my ecm and I don't have a cruise inhibit pin. What is the purpose of that wire?

Only pin I have coming out of the ecm for the cruise is R13 Cruise control engage.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

If the unit doesn't have the pin, it doesn't need it

cowansauto

iTrader: (2)

I can't seem to find where the signal lever connector wires are at to connect to the digital cruise unit wiring. I see where the blue plug is that goes into the brake pedal switch that has two wires attached.

The original vacuum cruise setup was taken out and I have a black terminal left where the original cruise harness connected under the column.

Update- found it. It's over on the passenger side kick panel area.

cowansauto

iTrader: (2)

Would it be okay to use the wire at C100 that goes to the Gauges fuse as the ignition source for this set-up? I belive it was originally A6 at the ECM if I'm not mistaken.

cowansauto

iTrader: (2)

Anyone else have any install pictures with using this style cruise box? I'd like to hide it a little better and need some ideas.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

I am doing a swap in another vehicle and wiring in the GM digital cruise unit.

Pins R13 and R37 on the cruise module diagram are mixed up in previous posts. GM service info website shows pinH on the cruise module going to PCM pin R37, and pinJ going to PCM pinR13.

On truck PCMs, H is not used, all else remains the same as 99-02 Fbody PCM

jharrison5

Hate to dig up a dead thread, but I just can't find the info I'm looking for.

Ditched the 5.3 swap and went with a 5.7 vortec out of a '98 tahoe, but I still have the S10 Cruise module that I would like to use. Most of my factory harness was attacked by the mice so I have gone with a FAST ez-efi 2.0 for engine management. I'm going to splice the new into the old to get my gauges and lights working, but am not sure how to do the cruise wiring. The car had cruise from the factory, but the diaphragm and cable is long gone.

Aviator857

The "signal level connector" this is the connector to the cruise switch on the column? I'm working on this right now and the "red" wire on mine is pink/black and is what provides 12vdc to the switch in the original configuration. The diagram says not used, do I cut it or leave the 12vdc? If you cut it I'm not sure how the off position does anything.

Can someone confirm?