five7kid

iTrader: (14)

spareecm says he put a 2000 tune on my PCM (with emissions & VATS delete, fan temp changes, gear and tire size changes, etc.). He said he also reprogrammed the shift timing, but not the shift points. Today I had the car at the track, with a tach for the first time (still no speedo), and had some questions:

What is the stock computer-commanded 2-3 shift point? I wasn't brave enough to use one of my time trials to find out what it shifted 1-2 (knew it was pretty short). Set the pointer at 6000 for the first pass, it shifted 1-2 when I clicked it forward. I shifted 2-3 at 6k, and it went on up to 6500 before shifting. For the rest of the day, I shifted 1-2 at 6500, clicked it 2-3 at 6000, and it shifted 6500 each time.

TCC lock-up: When driving to/from the track, the TCC locked up, both on the surface street (40 mph, I'm guessing that's about where it locked up - 1600 RPMs w/2.73 gears and 24" diameter tires). I don't have the brake switch hooked up (yet), so the questions are: What's the typical TCC lock-up MPH, and does the brake switch interact with the TCC lock-up?

The main problem I'm having with the way it runs is the idle. Especially after the throttle has been opened, the idle will get rough, RPMs drop, and if I don't do anything, it'll die. If I feather the throttle, it picks back up (but will do the same thing if I let off the throttle completely). It won't die if the car is moving. I've got 28 lb injectors instead of 26 lb, think that's what is affecting it? Or, is the TB idle screw not set correctly? I don't have the OBD II connector or check engine light hooked up yet, so I don't know what the computer is seeing, or if trouble codes are being set.

Take as stab at these ?'s if you see fit.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

I couldnt find the specific info on tech, but I did find this. May be more helpful since the shift points and commonly changed in the tune. Also, since you built the cars to race you may want to look into some form of tuning software so you can make track adjustments yourself. Shift points would be one of them as E class trans were not meant to be manually shifted. You're supposed to be able to leave it in OD and do a WOT blast down the track or go get groceries with the same effects

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/11411554-post44.html

TCC has a long list of requirement to lockup, but without the brake switch it should not be doing it though. It will lock in 3rd/4th, speed isnt the main factor either. You sure it's not PWM? Its the gray area between locked and unlocked and E class trans use it ALOT

Idle issue sounds like the stalling issues coming from not having a VSS. Since the trans shifts, it's obviously working. Maybe try cleaning the IAC, remember like TPIs, you need to re-seat the IAC before installing and cycle the key a few times after the install to re-close it. Adjusting the idle screw on the TB will seriously jack up the tune settings as the TPS will read a value other than 0. The PCM doesnt like that when it's supposed to be idling

Hook up the MIL and ALDL (1 wire and 3 wires respectively) then see whats up. The PCM will log nearly any hiccup the engine has with a code, even when you dont feel it

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I'm afraid I'm not familiar with PWM. I do know I can give it a little throttle when it seems the TCC is locked and the RPMs don't jump up. Doing the same when it seems the TCC isn't locked, the RPMs jump.

I am certainly considering tuning software. Since I'll have 3 LSx vehicles, it would make sense to have it and understand it.

I understand I should be able to put it in gear and floor it. That's what I was expecting, actually, and was disappointed it isn't happening.

This is a new, unused, take-off intake and TB. The IAC shouldn't need anything. I suppose I could try swapping the TB with the LS1/T56 car and see what happens - it idles fine. I've never had a car with IAC before, so I didn't know anything about seating or cycling.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Cant hurt to try it, not like its a huge job to swap

Something is off if you cant get it to downshift with throttle control (foot). It may be in the tune or lack of brake switch. Id cover the bases for necessary wire inputs before contacting the tuner though

The IAC is simply a stepper motor that actuates a valve allowing or sealing off a small hole that bypasses the throttle blade. Sometimes you can shut the car off with the IAC fully closed. Since this is the real world where MFR tolerances are in play, fully closed is different for every TB so the IAC motor has allowances beyond the normal full close of an Ideal TB. When you disturb the IAC by removing and reinstalling without re-seating the IAC pintle you risk bottoming the plunger out against the TB which can strip the teeth off the IAC motor. Good practice is to wiggle the pintle with light pressure until is is fully seated in the IAC. Cycling the key a few times commands the pintle to move to full close and stop on it's own. Very rarely would this be a problem because generally cars are shut down after a brief idle period, but it's cheap insurance for an expensive sensor. Same thing you do for disk brakes on a pad change with the caliper piston

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

It will downshift in OD when you give it throttle. The 1-2 shift issue is it's so low the engine labors to keep moving once it's in 2nd when I allow it to shift on its own. If I keep it manually in 1st and shift it to 2nd myself at a higher RPM, it keeps on truckin'.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Fluid level or tune is off

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Fluid level is above the add mark when warm.

I suspect there's something weird with the tune. When I asked whether the shift points were changed, his response was, "We do not perform radical transmission tuning as part of our custom tuning. We did make the change to the shift time so that the engagement of the gear is quicker. This will make the gear change a bit more snappy without affecting the other trans settings."

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Monday I changed the oil. While it was running, I pulled the cap off of the now-unused vacuum port behind the TB on the driver side. The idle cleaned right up. Put the cap back on, it died immediately. Repeated that a couple of times to be sure, did it every time. Put the cap back on to see what it would do closer to sea level in Topeka this weekend.

Today, took it off the trailer, it died 3 times before I got it down the ramps. Drove it around the pits, didn't want to keep running if I didn't feather the throttle. Took the cap off again, cleaned right up. So, I went to O'Reilly's and picked up a little breather filter and clamped in on the port. Made 4 passes, never died on me once. WOT doesn't seem to mind having the extra air at all (probably doesn't suck much are at all through that port at WOT).

So, some tuning needed. Not going to happen this weekend, though.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Oh, I made one pass in 3rd gear from the launch. Shifted 1-2 @ 4500 RPMs, 2-3 at 6500.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

is this with a stock cam? has anyone jacked with the setting on the throttle body. such as the stop or the piece that sits on the screw. if it was a cam car then i would say the tune is off or the hole in the blade needs to be drilled out. the iac might not be working good enough either not allowing the air needed to be able to idle. and who tuned it for you.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

I had to read that a few times, thought the block got windowed

Popping the PCV line off to fix the idle sounds just like a IAC issue, trade the TBs and see if it helps. Running with a breather there is letting unmetered air past the MAF so the engine will run slightly lean. Id consider that a temp fix only

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I completely ran out of time to pull the TB off of the other car. I suspect you're right about the IAC. The unmetered air at WOT would be very minimal, and the O2 should compensate (I would think). It seems to be running well other than idle and just off idle. At least it hasn't died on me again (which is very nice when you're staged).

I'll switch the TB's when I get home. It's going to be another scramble, but should be worth the time.

(By the way, it's not the PCV line, it's the one on the other side used for evap.)

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Sorry, missed this post. Stock cam. I tried adjusting the stop, but set it back about where it was after creating the air leak.

Spareecm did the PCM tune. Other than the shift timing (as he called it) modification and deletion of torque management, it was a stock 2000 Canadian tune with emissions stuff deleted and gears & tire size reset.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

wow i hope he did timing and fuel tables. as for no tq management i hope you at least have a shift kit and maybe a vette servo for starters. try the tb swap and see what it does.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Did the shift kit, already had the Vette servo. Timing and fuel tables were stock 2000 Canadian LS1 from what I understand.

one92rs

iTrader: (5)

then there is an awful lot left on the table that can be unleashed with it. good luck.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

No doubt. At this point, I'd be satisfied with a decent idle (although that's probably not a programming problem) and 1-2 shift RPM.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I put the TB from the LS1/T56 car this evening, which idled fine, and it acted the same way. Needs the vacuum leak to idle at all. So, it isn't the IAC.

spareecm responded to my message today, he's guessing the injectors are causing the issue. I'll be out of town until Friday, I'll try swapping injectors on Saturday and see what happens.