diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

there is progress, but it will stop for a little over a year. I'm being stationed in Korea for the time being. After that I will start in the suspension and the frame stiffening. I'll also be installing the front LS1 brakes to match the rears. I already have the subframe connectors, and I'm thinking that the farthest I'll need to go is a roll bar. I want to rebuild my transmission before I leave, but I probably won't get to that either until I get back.

The Progress is as follows:

installed a 99 rear axle with welded tubes, Richmond 4.10s, Zexel Torsen diff, and TA Performance girdle. I had it media blasted and I painted it with POR-15 which really only needed one coat. I missed a step for getting the parking brake to work, but I'll worry about that when I get back and deal with the frame. I forgot to get pics of the axle before I installed it. I'll post them when I can get some during the light.

I installed my Yonaka race seats with 4th gen belts. They look great where they sit. They'd look better with harnesses, lol.

I'm still in the stages of tuning, with my trial and error method. But it does drive a lot better with the lower gear and it just wants to take off like a bat out of hell.

Strick1

First of all, thank you for your service.

I'm currently putting a LT1 in my 83 Camaro. Your pictures of the K-member notching are invaluable to me. They answered the question of where and how much to modify the K-member. There is a big difference between LSx and LT1 mountings. I have lots of questions to ask you about this swap. So if you get a chance to get on the computer over there, check out my thread. 83 Camaro\95 Caprice LT1\transplant

Stay safe

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I appreciate the support.

Feel free to ask me any questions. I should have no problems with access to internet while I am over there. I'll visit your thread to see where you are at with it

More forward progress. I just finished rebuilding my T56 today. It was not too bad. I used a press and various holders to separate the gears and bearings. To set it face down I set the input shaft between 2 tables. I had a couple hiccups during the rebuild, but I ironed them out quickly. The Reverse gear's synchro teeth were severely worn, for the blocker ring I just flipped it around for the fresh side. I think the problem is from the reverse lock out not working. When I get a chance, probably in a year. I'll test the lockout manually to see if it operates, I don't think it's the wiring.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I don't know why I didn't post these pics earlier. I know the welding looks boogery. 1st I'm not proficient welding. 2nd I was using a borrowed harbor freight welder that had flux core wire and using gas at the same time. She spits. I didn't find that out until I opened it up. But here are pics

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

It's been awhile since I've been able to touch my car. But I'm back at it again. It was running and running strong. There are just a few things that I still have to do to get it exactly where I want it. I am in the middle of installing EFI connection's 24X setup and with that I am switching to the corvette accessories.

I have already installed the cam and crank sensors which was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be. I was dreading the pain of taking the timing cover off. The next step is to run the wires for the new sensors and the ignition coils to the PCM. Last night I spent the time stripping a spare harness to harvest the connectors and pins necessary. I am going to run fresh wires for the crank sensor and repurpose the distributor wires for the cam sensor. I was hoping to find a spare connector to plug right into that one but I don't have one laying around.

The info that I need to find is the pinouts for the LT1 PCM to LS1 PCM. I might get the chance to do that tonight. The other big bit of info I need to know is how well the Corvette Water pump connects with the F-body LT1 radiator.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I'm at the point of needing to put together new power steering lines. Does anyone have a preferred vendor of brand? I found anplumbing.com but I don't want to go with the cheapest only to have a line blow off.

I found these to do a banjo bolt on the pump itself if I need to. It's a tight bend right there. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uis-621710/overview/

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I am officially nearing the end of the road for the powertrain on this project. I had the PCM bench tuned by Late Model Throttle so that I can drive it there to be put on the dyno. There are a few more pieces that I need to install for it to drive.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I am sorry that I haven't updated you guys lately

The bench tune from late model throttle worked great out of the box. Sadly I am plagued by the long starts due to the single row 24X crank reluctor wheel. Other than that it runs strong and efficient.

The most recent tragedy is that I blew up my clutch and stripped the pressure plate bolt threads from the flywheel. Because of that I decided to repair the flywheel with thread inserts and a new friction surface. I purchased a kevlar clutch and stage 3 pressure plate from clutchnet. And to finish it off, I found a scatter shield just in case the next time is more catastrophic.

Today I finally got chance to start putting the clutch back together and I ran into another road block. The scatter shield does not clear my headers. Now I'm not sure if I should just hope for the best and use the stock bell housing or is there scatter shield that will clear the stainless works? any feedback would help a lot, thank you.

hotrodf1

Any update to report? You feel the 24X was the way to go?

So far the original 150k Opti hasn't been an issue that I know of. I kinda like my speed density '93 computer with EEPROM chips to be honest. I thought it was a bummer at first, but now I love it. Tune it for basically free with TunerPro RT. Once you go to LS computer, that's gone forever. Maybe more options I guess, but I have been able to get the LT to run pretty good in open loop, running about 15.4-15.8 at cruise, then of course progressively richer as the MAP increases.

I guess MS would be an option too, for cheap tuning I can do.