diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

Long story short. I purchased an LT1/T56 combo at a great price, and when I was replaceing gaskets and seals I found a great deal wrong with it. Since I sped through all the phases, I accepted the bad luck and am ready to do a build.

The Goal:
400 HP to the wheels with mild or non reworked heads. Also to be fairly streetable, a cam that is 112 LSA preferably.

I'm so far coming up with:
11.5:1 compression
H-beam rods
LT4 hot cam kit w/ matching rockers and springs
30# SVO injectors
a larger throttle body as needed
chromoly push rods
comp cams lifters

I'm excluding the obvious exhaust and Ignition upgrades on purpose

Let me know what you think. Thanks in advance

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Why would you use the Hot cam when you could buy a similar spec cam that gives the same ( or better ) lift without needing 1.6 rockers?

Might be dreaming
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...232-post3.html
http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/showpost...0&postcount=10

Check out what someone like LE needs to get those numbers from a LTX
http://elliottsportworks.com/home/?page_id=53

Ported heads that flow much more ( 275cfm ) than stock heads and a serious 232+ cam
His well ported heads with cam similar to the Hot cam (218/224 .570/.565) but with way more lift
only (Hotcam .525 ) makes 370RWHP


Build a 383 instead and you would be best part there

XTINCTION

My only advice to you GO BUY AN OEM OPTI SPARK AND DONT EVER LET WATER TOUCH IT! I have a 97 m6 z28 full bolt on car. All of the problems I have had have all revolved around the Opti Spark. Other than that good luck!

torque_is_good

400 RWHP? You're going to need head work. Talk to Lloyd and be prepared to spend money. 400 RWHP from an LT1 isn't cheap.

And with respect to the "great deal", over the years I've seen too many people buy junkers thinking they were getting a great deal. A used engine is just that, a used engine. It isn't anything wonderful or magical and it's being sold for a reason.

Reliable performance isn't cheap and it's a pity that you had to learn the lesson the same way most people do, by spending money twice.

That is why I am consistent on this forum and will refer to every used engine as a "junker". If the seller cannot produce build paperwork and hours/miles on the engine, then it needs to be torn down and redone.

eagle_eyes

iTrader: (3)

is the bottom end in good shape? you can get 400+ from a top end build, but as mentioned, you need the heads worked. LE is a great place to go. port your intake if you want a bigger TB.

http://elliottsportworks.com/

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

the only thing that was good in the engine was the block and the bare heads. The threads down the center of the crank were all jacked up, there was one odd connecting rod, the cam and lifters were jacked up, and there were broken valve springs.

I was looking at LE and advanced inductions for the heads. does AI produce the numbers they advertise? If they do and the use a smaller intake port than others that would also mean better flow

eagle_eyes

iTrader: (3)

this is what i would do...take it as you will...

find a stock crank, pistons, rods. you can usually get used ones real cheap. if you are doing some big porting on the heads and want more than 400 hp, step up to maybe mahle pistons and scat rods, if your budget allows. the stock crank is still fine. spend the money on the heads. get a cam that matches well with the heads. port intake, and add a larger tb.

there's a lot of good info on camaroz28 on LT1 builds too...not to stray you from here...there's a lot of knowledge here too.

torque_is_good

speak with Lloyd, seriously

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I'm heading over to the machine shop in a little bit to see if the pistons I pulled out fit well in the cylinders. If they're within spec I guess new rods, rings, and a phone call to lloyd.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

How about this camshaft, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-19244485/
It has a more aggressive lift with 1.5:1 rockers and a large rpm range.

I took the block and pistons to the machine shop, and they said it would be best to bore the engine over. I also sent lloyd an email, he must've not been around to answer the phone.

torque_is_good

lloyd will create a package for you that is proven. Why bother looking at cams?

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

Yes, they do. I run their 200cc ported GM heads and a cam they spec'd for me (228 intake dur) in my ImpalaSS on the stock bottom end LT1.
My goal was 400+ rwhp, which I figured would put the car running 11.3's; it dyno'd 425 SAE through the A4 with locked converter. At first glance their prices seem a little high, but when you look at what you get for the money, they are right in line with the others. They really stress the importance of a robust valvetrain, which is where the apparent cost difference comes in.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

It looks like I'm gonna have to do the heads after deployment. They wouldn't be able to fit into my budget yet. I appreciate the input from every body. with the stock heads I'm going to run 11.2:1 with a set of hypertectic pistons. I haven't decided on a cam yet, but I have ideas.

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

I'm currently building my LT1. A few things I've learned on the way:

Don't use a high volume or high pressure oil pump. Use the melling 155 and the oil pump shaft with the metal coupler IS-55E.

Head gaskets: use felpro 1074

Only use an OEM GM opti, or go LTCC.

If you plan on spinning higher than 6500 rpms, you need NSA roller rockers, guide plates and hardens push rods.

Good non-gigantic cams for LT1s are the CC502, CC503, LT4 Hotcam or anything from Lloyd Elliot

You can use beehive LS type valve springs, but you need CC-787 retainers and 7* locks also from comp cams

The oil pump drive is prone to cracking an breaking. You can get a metal top retainer to bolt on to it, incase this happens, a guy on LS1tech.com makes them, sells them in EBay for 14$, very cheap insurance

Don't forget to replace the water pump drive rubber gaskets with OEM ones, the aftermarket ones are smaller and will cause oil leaks

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

what is the factory valve spring diameter? summit recommended these springs. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-987-16/ They're a lot cheaper than beehives

scrubbin627

Yea a hot cam is only good for about 330 rwhp. Id watch the for sale sections for a cc503 cam or something similar for cheap. Ask around on your local car forum and find a reputable shop in your area to mill/p&p and do a valve job on your heads.

Youll be damn close to 400 through your m6 and itll be $1000 cheaper than shipping your top end to Texas. Just my

KiLLJ0Y

iTrader: (1)

yeah you can use those.. you can also use the 986-16 dual valve springs and save $4.. i would pick your cam 1st.. then get the valve train in order.. since all the valve train will revolve around the cam.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I decided that I'm going with the cam I linked above, and the beehive springs are the only springs I can run with out machining the heads. And obviously go with the nsa set up, comp cams hi energy rockers look pretty good for the price. has anybody run them before, and do they fit under the center bolt valve covers?
I dropped my block and pistons off at the machine shop a few days ago.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I just got the new fuel tank with the 255 fuel pump intalled to the camaro. I'm right now waiting for the engine parts to come back from the machine shop. I'm putting KB pistons with a 7cc relief wich would put it at about 11.2:1 CR, along with the cam previously mentioned. If I don't get within 30 hp of my goal, I'll be getting some LE or AI heads after my deployment.

Here are some pics, it's an 86 z28 origionally with a 305 carbed

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

fuel tank/pump was by far my least favorite part of the swap.

sounds like you have a good build on your hands

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

If I just listened to everybody and just went straight to removing the axle I would've had less trouble. I was trying to sneak it by. I thought it wasn't too bad, even doing it on the ground.

I definately can't wait. I'm also turning the interior to black, and I have a set of yonaka seats on their way down to put in. Paint will happen a lot later, I just want to drive it right now.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I just picked up my disassembled engine from the machine shop today. starting saturday it's getting assembled, and ready to set in.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

update.

I finally got the heads bolted on tonight. I had a problem with the gmpp bolts, brought up in another post. I found a brand new set of ARP head studs for 90 on ebay, so I jumped on it. tomorrow after I smooth out the water pump drive I can get to adjusting the valves and be ready to prime it. I should be ready to drop it in on Sunday.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I got the valves adjusted and tried to put the valve covers on. turns out my rockers aren't compatable with center bolt covers. Could I just cut the webbing out of the cover to make them fit? or would that make them not seal right? When I bought them it didn't state whether they were compatable or not. They are comp cams high energy aluminum full roller rockers, part number 17001-16.

I just looked at the rockers again, and they make contact with the head studs. I guess I have to find a better set. Does this mean I need the steel fully roller rockers? If any body has anything that'll work, I need 1.5:1 ratio fully roller 3/8 stud.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I ordered comp chromemoly roller rockers today, so the I should have it together this week

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Lookin good!

Kory-88Iroc 350 tpi

iTrader: (1)

cut the webbing out from the valve covers. look at the webbing and cut only what is needed. no need to cut all of it out. any time you run guide plates this needs to be done.
I've had both Le and Ai heads. if you can afford the Ai top end buy it.Cnc port work trumps hand porting always, IF the program is top notch. Ai has top notch programming as well as machine work (valve job) and assembly. I have never seen an Ai car not produce the numbers it was supposed to. Not saying it has never happened, but I've never seen it. I have seen alot of Le cars including mine that fell far short of the performance I expected.
I will be going with a set of Ai 243s on my ls s10 swap.
these are obviously my opinions take them for what they are worth.
Hope this helps,
Kory

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

For the moment I can't afford AI heads, I would love to have a set. I'll probably be getting a set after deployment. I purposely didn't port so I could use them for the core return, I still get nervous when I do it plus I can wait. Thank you for the advise on the valve covers

Kory-88Iroc 350 tpi

iTrader: (1)

Glad to help. Thanks for protecting our country.
Kory

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

thank you for the support. new lesson learned. comp cams guide plates only work on old school sbc. the trickflows fit properly 30400623. it took the weekend to get them, and i haven't had time to install the second bank yet

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I just got my wire harness in fresh from pocket. Looks great and everything is labeled very well for a quick install. I appreciate it, thank you much pocket.

I won't be able to order the headers until early October. the company that's selling them won't have them in stock until then. How hard is it to install long tubes while the engine is in the body? If it's pretty easy I'll be intalling the engine with the harness in the next couple weeks.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

just an update with pictures. someone local was able to help me modify the passenger motor mount to make room for the A/C, and I finally got a chance to pull the old 305 out and set in the LT1/T56. I made the mistake of not notching the k member for the a/c compressor, now I just gave myself a little more hassle. nothing a torch and air hammer can't fix.

lunati397

mine was a 383 but I had por tmatched heads and intake and custom cam that was close to the specs of the GM847 cam It is streetable I had hardened pushrods fully forged bottomend from GOLEN engines (top quality and service) and a bbk throttle body

I put out 523 hp to the rear wheels through the 6 speed with a spec stage 3 clutch

The hot came rockers are good but go with the 847 cam you will like it also get some 987 springs

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Looking good, thanks for the pic of the AC interference. That question comes up alot

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

nice numbers, what was you rcompression? I used the the GM485, which is the replacement for the 847, and the comp cams 918 springs

pocket

here's some more pics with it in. It's still to close for my liking, when it comes out again next year I'm gonna make it a little prettier. By the way, thanks for the wire harness, it looks great. When I get the corrected length pushrods I'll be laying it down on the engine. this site was my guideline for the motor mount, http://www.hpsalvage.com/ and firebat made the A/C hoses.

lunati397

it was around 10 to 1 I had the heads done by a local guy known for doing amazing work and he had them milled so it was less than stock cc and i had the pistons .05 in the hole with a small dish

I ran a friends car with a 383 lt4 with afr heads and tons of money and made him buy a supercharger and rebuild because he was embarassed

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

That's funny, I'm trying to do the same against one of my buddies cobra.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

so I have the corrected length pushrods in place. Mine turned out to be 7.000" exactly.

now that's all set I need to make the fuel lines. I'm not sure if I want to do straight AN or 90* off of it. I just don't think the braided lines can make the supert tight bend.

lunati397

a #6 braided line has a bend radias of about 6 inches then you risk kinking it if not right away it will over time

I build hydraulic lines for acft

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

i ordered all the stuff to make the fuel lines. what is acft? I'm gonna have to make a power steering lines to go across to the gear box.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Aircraft

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

that makes more sense. thanks pocket. I have the wire harness all strung up now.

I'm setting in the LT1 radiator, and I'm wondering what needs to be done to make it stay? I'm thinking moving the driver's side rubber piece for the bottom and cut a hole for the drain port. Then I probably just need some sheet steel bent up to brace the top.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

i moved my radiator as far as i could to the passenger side, then drilled a 3/4" hole for the draincock. If you are refering to the radiator shroud to hold it down, I have an extra one i could sell you for cheap. PM me if your intrested

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I PM'd you. I will definately be drilling the hole and setting it to the passenger side. I'll be taking a trip to napa tomorrow to make some lines

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

so i found time to make up my fuel lines today. It wasn't that bad once I found something hard to put behind the braided lines when I cut. I'm using the jegs quick connects and one if them is kicking my a$$. Should I just send it back, or is there a trick to them that I haven't thought of. I already tried greasing them and turning with a wrench while pushing.

FormulaLT

iTrader: (2)

I used the same fittings and had the same problems. I had to wrap duct tape around the braided line about 1/8" thick before I cut it to prevent fraying. Then I unwrapped the tape until there was only one layer left. I left it in place, put the braided line in a vice and pushed like hell to get the fittings on...but they went on and didn't leak a drop. PITA but worth it.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

what really worked was cutting it with a sharp chisel. Then while it was squished all i had to do was put the one corner in and push down on the the other as putting it in. they went in like butter, and no tore up fingers. I'm having the problem of putting the connector on the rail

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

I wrap them twice with masking tape. Cut with a cutoff wheel. Use a sharp pair of wire cutters to trim long strands, then squeeze the tip into the hose end cap. Twisting the cap on does a good job of fully seating the hose. Then I use a razor to cut the masking tape I can still see. All the fittings Ive done have tried to push the hose out of the end. The masking tape cut line shows me how far its gone and if I need to start over

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

the twist is key

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I just picked up a OEM hurst shifter for $50 from a guy on craigslist. he just bought a 99 z28 and bought a pro 5.0 shifter and didn't realize that he already had a short shifter.

I think he put the packing grease that is in it. Is there a prefered better lubricant to put into it? or does it just us the trans fluid to lube it.