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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Talked with the dyno this morning. A pink wire in the engine harness was too short and pulled a pin out of the connector causing the misfire. They also had to solder in more wire (how many is that, now?); pulled the plug to dry out; decided to gap all 8 a little closer than the TR55; and haven't looked at the fans, yet. I wonder how much time, money, frustration I have in this harness. It never ends... Now others are drawn into it, too.
Dyno guys seem competent, so I'm glad I'm in good hands.
Here is the dyno sheet. I asked for daily driver drive-ability and 0 knock retard for 93 Octane. Happy with the tune; @ 65 mph on freeway, WOT immediately shifts to 2nd and goes like a scalded rabbit.
With the tune, the exhaust is quieter at low RPM's and bellows @ WOT. I'm liking the exhaust sound with tune.
Dyno guys broke my pedal (flat piece that contacts foot NOT the pedal assembly) and had to drive home with foot on rod . They removed my strut tower brace to remove spark plugs (necessary?) and failed to re-secure fuel regulator to the brace . They also bent my bracket for the catch-cans . They quoted me one price on the phone, then I show up and there's $35 more on the bill (wideband 02 bung plug); I'm OK with that, just a surprise. Of course, I was billed for wiring problem repair. Minor issues, but when you're already tired & frustrated, ....
BUT, IT'S OVER! Just some small straggling fitment issues left.
Max Power: 382.3@5712 RPM/ 128.8 MPH
w/WCF 378.1
Max Torque: 376.4@4853 RPM/ 107.9 MPH
w/WCF 372.4
Thanks for all your help, Jon. Would still be working at it if it wasn't for your help!
Power difference is obvious. The motor just keeps pulling, and pulling, and pulling. The dyno graph shows peak hp and does not drop off - if plateaus. That is way cool! Even for a daily driver tune w/no knock retard. Don't notice any immediate off the line torque loss, TPI was very torquey, but I had a 2800 stall convertor. I now have whatever was stock for the GTO 4L65e. With such low miles on these takeouts, my plan is to leave as is for a while (yeah, right ).
It's also obvious that the E40 computer is much better than OBDI. Pulling up to stop light, the computer keeps idle very nicely and smoothly. Throttle response is excellent. I'm glad I kept the DBW. I wish I had some Gen 3 experience to see if there is a difference to the Gen 4 E40 w/TCU. It's still a 24x, so sampling is the same. Don't know how much better any Gen 4 sensors would be, probably nothing. Tuner said knock sensors were sensitive. Myron @ TPIS burned me a chip in the mid 90's for the TPI, but the LS is much better response and tune! I have no idea how much knock retard was happening at the end of it's life (L98), or how much compression I had left.
Trans seems to be fine. 9-bolt was rebuilt once by factory under extended warranty. I probably need to get the cones re-shimmed, finally. At this power level, I'm ok on street tires (diff & gears looked great).
After 214k, I was getting 19-20 mpg on cruise control. I'm hoping to get around 25, now. Spring project, figure out how to - cruise control.
At a stop light, I have no problems with one foot and taking off easy. If I use two with one on brake, I have traction problems. I've never been a standing start kind of guy. Too many potential problems in residential areas with stop-lights/signs, pedestrians, police, etc. I did get clocked at 120 mph going down the mountain from Flagstaff to Phoenix, but they never caught me. Pulled in for fuel and someone came over and told me they heard on the CB someone in a red trans am was clocked .
Had to drop the front about 3/4" to compensate for lighter motor. I'm at 27" front and 28" back. Don't want any lower for street with BMR trak pak cross-member in and the header collector positions. Front end is noticeably lighter and quicker turn-in feel. I'll have to start studying effects of ride height adj on alignments, next. Those Afco swivel cup weight jacks are exciting (once they're in). I recommend this mod - especially if you're working on the k-member, anyway.
Biggest disappointment - finishing in mid-December .
Congrats on getting everything sorted out. Ive been following this thread for awhile, and i felt bad about all the little issues you bumped into. Cant imagine how frustrating that has to be. Just glad to hear everythings good, and that its pulling some really nice numbers on the dyno! Enjoy it man!
Fixed the pass side y-pipe this Spring - finally took some pics (attachments). The pipe is now straight with no dimples. Cut the frame open and re-boxed; modified the trans cross-member; changed the bolt attachment points for trans cross-member (bolts through the side on pass side). Pipe tucks up nice.
I just read all through this thread and could not find what you did for your p/s pressure hose? Maybe I am still decaffeinated. I also am prepping to put a GTO LS motor in (glacially slow) and have not yet located what the few other GTO swappers I have seen here have used seeing the GTO pump outlet seems to be in a different location.
My thread regarding A/C Request on LS2.com got closed but I remembered you were researching the same subject back then and had posted to it. I found this yesterday while doing some random Googling: https://forum.efilive.com/showthread...request-signal
Just an FYI if you are still looking.
I've done nothing with the block or hose - it's just there keeping dirt out.
Funny, I just starting tackling the issue. With the LS2 E40 from a GTO, the PIM and BCM are needed. I have the donor PIM, found a BCM with C1, C2, & C3 pigtails and the PIM pigtail. BCM will need to be reflashed to match ECM & PIM.
Cruise Control does not need the BCM but does need PIM, and I'm also working on that at the same time. So I'll have ECM control of both cruise control and a/c. The bloc I'll get from Doc's blocs and I'll have the hose cut down to fit properly. Should be completed by mid-Oct at latest, get all the kinks out, then store for winter and will be ready when I take it out for a Spring trip - Blues Hwy down to NOLA.
1. Carrier/Sending unit is bucket style - keeps fuel around the pump. I was having fuel starvation issues at 1/4 tank or less on track.
2. Filler neck is rubber hose - no need for 'hack'-door. Easy to drop if ever needed.
3. Some weight savings.
4. Pin holes were starting to show up around filler neck weld.
5. Charcoal unit is on tank - whenever I get around to making it functional, or if I move to a restrictive state like Cali.
Getting that damn filler neck back in its home after dropping it is the biggest PITA thing I have dealt with on that car. I think I may look at this as a future upgrade. Thanks.
12-05-2011, 01:16 PM
. They removed my strut tower brace to remove spark plugs (necessary?) and failed to re-secure fuel regulator to the brace 
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