QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Also decided to soften the rear springs. I am staying with the Ground Control weight jacks but dropped down to 150 lb/in, which is the lowest spring rate they sell for the rear. I hope to improve traction off the line a bit between this and adjusting shocks. Not trying to build a drag car, but there is no reason why the car can't work better than it does today.

What I really need is some front end weight transfer, but that won't be possible until I can get back some ground clearance and ditch the super stiff springs.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

And.... my Speedhut gages arrived. This started out as just a desire to have a more accurate tachometer but snowballed into a whole set of gages.

These are the 4" gages. Right now I burry the stock 120 mph speedo in the 1/4 mile. This 140 mph speedo should be sufficient for anything I ever do, and the numbers are still spread apart far enough that it is easy to read with a glance of the eye. I don't really care for the dual gages being oriented vertical so I might turn them to be horizontal like the stock gages. Have not yet sorted out how I am going to mount these in the gage pod but there are a few threads on this site with good ideas.




The reason I went with Speedhut is because of the tachometer. It has a built in shift light. The LED lights are programmable to sequence by rpm intervals, but I'll just light 'em all up at the same time so it is obvious when to shift.




Even though I haven't given thought to mounting, I have given a lot of thought to wiring. The Speedhut gages have their own power inverter and dimmer dial for lighting, so I had to find a power source in the car that switches on with lights but is full system voltage (not on the factory dimmer). I found that power source, and associated ground wire, at the connector for fog light switch. My car does not have fog lights so that part of the wiring harness is open for use. I also needed to find a key-on +12V power source to power the gages. I will simply recycle the original keyed power source at the gage pod (Connector C1, Pin 9).




Here is the schematic of the fog light switch circuit.




As far as I can tell, these are the pinouts at the factory gage pod. I have two extra wires that were listed as "not used". Not sure what those are yet, or if it even matters. I will leave most the factory connectors in tact and still operate the factory turn signals and high beam indicator. The only alterations I am making is to run the sensors wires to the new gages.




I traced out all the circuits of the gage pod to make sure I knew what to touch and what to leave alone. I will have to remove all the factory light bulbs and this will cause me to have to rewire the SES light circuit because that is how I am currently turning on the alternator.

Update: Wiring LS1 alternator directly to a fuse panel without resistor, Post # 884, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post6172816

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I replaced the steering shaft tonight. Wasn't acting up in any way but with 29 years and 117K miles on the stock rag joint I figured I would just do the upgrade anyway.

Stock shaft is on top, and the Walter Racecraft hybrid Astro/F-body shaft is on bottom. Removing the stock shaft was simple. Just remove one bolt at each end and pull it out. It took a little coaxing to slide it off each end. And make sure the steering wheel is locked so it doesn't rotate while you're working, otherwise the steering wheel will be crooked when you're done. The new shaft went in so easy I can't even call it car work. Direct fit without notching, and uses the stock thru hole in the column.




The new shaft is down there somewhere.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I went for a drive after the car sat all winter. Brakes are mushy and pedal is low again. That pesky leak at the prop valve just won't go away!!!

All the problems are at the Wilwood prop valve again. Not a single leak anywhere else. I'm nearly at my wits end. I'm using factory made flares, highest quality fittings I could find, and it still leaks. These brake issues are getting old.... real old.

I'm now wondering if it is the inserts in the valve that are leaking and not my fittings. All I know is this has to stop but undecided what to do next.

cam406406

iTrader: (1)

Just delete it. I dont have 1 you dont need it

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I talked to Wilwood today and they gave me an idea to check the depth of the cone in my fittings. It might be the fitting is bottoming out before the cone seats. That is an interesting idea because that would be a consistent issue regardless of all the things I have tried.


Being able to adjust the brake bias is the difference between brakes working okay, and brakes working extremely well. If I can stop these leaks I should have the latter.

Beater79TA

Just wondering if you used adapter fittings to mate the original factory lines to the WIlwood valve or did you replace the factory fittings with the ones required by the prop valve?

WTR388

I love my speedhut gauges. For the dimmer set up, I powered the gauge lights via the factory dimmer, and cranked the speed hut dimmer. The speedhut dimmer is in behind the panel, I can adjust the brightness with the factory rheostat. I figured if it was too bright even at a low setting on the factory switch, I can dial it back on the speedhut **** to make it where I want it... But it's fine the way it is.
My gauges seemed to flicker a bit, but then I found one of my grounds on my swap harness wasn't that great, improved the contact and the flicker went away.

I'm using the speedo with the integrated high beam indicator and turn signals, I put in an LED light for the e-brake in the factory location but didn't install a resistor and kept blowing the bulb before I figured out what was up... Have the resistors but haven't put it in yet!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Thanks for the tip!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

4 out of 5 lines are direct fit to the prop valve (3/8" double flare). Only 1 adapter for the rear outlet to step up to 1/4" brake line (7/16" double flare).

The factory lines are gone, I made all these lines custom fit to the car. That is why it is such a PIA to fix anything because each time I touch it I have to build out new custom lines to each location.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Strut tower brace Part II -- the Heidts TBI edition

Some people might recall that I had tried the Heidts TPI strut tower brace but it hit the hood. After talking with Heidts they decided to trade out the TPI for a TBI version. Got the TBI strut tower brace and it is a "no go" as well. The hood will not even latch, and the brace doesn't line up right and would severely deform my firewall and possibly put a twist in the car if I tried to bolt it on.

The TBI brace is much lower in the center and barely clears the intake manifold. I think that is what they were trying to achieve but unfortunately that is not where the clash is with the hood.




Same points of first contact as before, as seen by the dust from my old hood insulation.

skinny z

So, what's the scoop? Are the braces just not designed properly?
I can see an issue with any part that we might buy for an application that isn't in the catalogue. i.e. a Firebird with an LS based engine. But the mis-fit at the attachment points is somewhat disconcerting.
I'd be curious as to whether my Edelbrock 3-point brace would work. It's designed for a carbed GenI/II SBC and I have room enough to close the hood (albeit on a Camaro) and the fitment is 100%. It does however have separate mounts for the strut towers which IIRC is something you're are trying to avoid.
If you would like, I can take a few measurements (it's hanging on the wall at the moment) and perhaps you can compare to that to what you have in hand.

I found this: It may or may not be helpful.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...rut-tower.html

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

They've never had a standard Firebird hood for fit up and from what I am reading (thanks to your links) my car is the worst case scenario. Heidts is more than willing to develop a strut tower brace to fit the Firebird hood, but my car is not a good candidate because it has had too much done to it to use as a template. The small block engines are taller and they really need a stock example to be sure it would fit a stock car.

If I could partner up with somebody that has a TPI car (Camaro or Firebird) then we might be able to drop both cars off at the Heidts shop (Chicago area) and maybe they would be able to make something that fits both cars. The engineer from Heidts has taken a personal interest in this and is wonderful to work with.

More likely scenario is I am going to have to cobble up my own strut tower brace. Maybe have one made custom, or begin with a BMR and weld up my own firewall brace.

cam406406

iTrader: (1)

again u dont need 1. They just get in the way!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

This all began when I noticed the signs of cracks forming on the roof. I want to stop that process. If you've got good ideas how to do that then I'm all ears.

Clearly the goal is to reduce stress at the roof. The following parts are in my garage waiting to go on the car,

* inner subframe connectors
* 6 point roll cage
* beefy upper door hinges
* strut tower brace

The one thing that bothers me the most of all the things on that list is the roll cage. It's just not what I wanted for my car, but I don't see a way around it.

cam406406

iTrader: (1)

cage and subframe connector is the only way
The tower brace is a waste of $$

Alice89

iTrader: (6)

Have you considered welding all of the seams? It will reduce flex & not be noticeable if done professionally.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

How can you do that without burning the paint on the roof?

cam406406

iTrader: (1)

its a street car cage not a track cage. And who has time to weld every seam in the car?
its give and take u want to make power u do a cage. And done right its only safer for you

Alice89

iTrader: (6)

I meant the uni-body frame seams under the car. I had it done on my 94 formula; it made a dramatic improvement.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Interesting, you're the 2nd person to mention that to me but I didn't really understand what they meant until you explained it. I guess I can look at it when the car goes on the lift for the other jobs. Sounds like the cost could really add up by the hour though. Car is undercoated from when new.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Normally stich welding the seams is done b4 paint and body work. It does help out more than I thought. Once I took a ride in 2 identical cars, one had been welded and the other hadn't. Eye opener for sure.

cam406406

iTrader: (1)

just cage it and quit ****ing around!!

prossi

Unless you are doing a full multi point cage inner and outer subframe connectors along with stitch welding the right seams will give you the most structural rigidity.


Keep in mind your 6 point roll bar is still being attached to spot welded panels if you don't do any stitch welding.

prossi

And for areas you cant weld on that have some gap between them id suggest getting 3M panel bond with a small hole tip (or large hole depending on the gap) and try to shoot that in between them to bond the panels together.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

If this is causing you a hernia then you don't have to watch.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

It helps in addition to a cage. Crazy but true.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Strut tower brace Part III -- the BMR edition

After consulting with BMR, I ordered up a 2 point brace (with the intention of turning it into a stout 3 point brace). I'm getting smarter about this so I asked all the right questions to avoid failure.

.... unfortunately we have failure.

Hood will not latch. Contact with hood is across the middle span, as seen by the dust from my old hood insulation. The BMR strut tower brace doesn't just hit the hood, it is taller than the hood. Bending the bars to lower it is not an option because that fancy dancy center plate will hit the fuel rails. Blue tape is at fender height.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

it's quite surprising you're having so many issues with the strut tower to hood clearance.

time for custom

skinny z

My thoughts exactly.
Now that said and power levels notwithstanding, I too have the cracks in the hardtop roof however those were evident when I bought this six cylinder roller many years ago. Before this car ever saw V8 power, Spohn's subframe connectors were added and the cracks have not propagated any amount that I can tell. That's after hundreds of slick tired launches not to mention the tens of thousands of street miles the chassis has endured.
I haven't had the 3-point brace installed in this car at any time although I felt the improvement in the old T-top IROC was noteworthy when it was in place.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

You know it!

I've already made the call to a local engineering services / fab shop I have worked with before in my job. Question is, should I pay extra for engineering drawings so that it can be reproduced and sold?

skinny z

Are you interested in helping someone else make money on it or would you produce and sell it through "QwkTrip Performance LLC" ?
That is the question.

88Greg

What engine mounts are you using ? Does your engine sit higher (Crank CL) than stock ?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

My engine is not the issue. The hood is the issue.

The top of an LS engine is lower in the engine bay than the top of a TPI engine. These companies are trying to clear a TPI engine and it pushes the strut tower into my hood.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

I don't understand how you have issues with that brace..... I am running it on my lsx 91 firebird under the stock formula hood. I do see it touching the insulation, but the hood closes normally. Plus I have a 3" gap between the center of the bar and the intake

I also ran it on a previous 92 formula with the tpi intake on it... that was a tight fit on the tpi itself, but other wise it was good to go.

Have you tried pushing it back towards the strut mounts? That might help.

cam406406

iTrader: (1)

ok comon. With all this wasted time you are spending on a useless part.. Just cage it or give up and spend the effort on something better. Like a turbo kit!!
You dont need this....

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

1" square tubing, bent in the hitch receiver of my pickup truck. done.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You have to do the same thing to the bottom side of the hood. It's isn't flat.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Correct, it is not as dramatic as it seems. But it is tall enough that the safety latch won't even grab.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I've got a 12 lb sledge you can borrow...

sprojam

nice idea I to have been absent for the last 10 years and after the last sale attempt I decided to revist the Camaro z28, guess I really didn't want the money and the xrta room. I to am having a blast down memory lane

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

That's great to hear, bud! You got a little info and pictures on your car somewhere that I can see?

sprojam

heres a old picture

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Yes, I can see that by the tiny dimensions suitable for telephone modem internet connection.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Dropped the car off at a shop to get Alston inner subframe connectors welded on, rework the torque arm mount for more ground clearance, and install a roll cage. If that doesn't cure chassis flex then nothing will.

I get so nervous leaving my car with somebody.... and get extra nervous when it involves a welder!

HP52TA

iTrader: (4)

What a relief to hear your done with that tower brace saga... There were some pretty good recommendations throughout though. LOL

How many point cage you going? Alston cage too? I am sure you are going to enjoy the new found solid feel after these additions. Welders and grinders scare me too when they are operated by others behind closed doors, but I'm sure you picked a quality shop.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

No, this is not a NHRA legal cage. It is a street cage with more head clearance and lower side bars for easy entry and egress. I am starting with a Hawks bolt in "Firehawk" cage, adding some more bars, making new forward bars, and welding it all in.

sprojam

sounds like a old dude car I need to fit

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Drag racing is a novelty to me, not a hobby. Driving the car whenever I can is the hobby. Trying to meet an NHRA guideline would not only make the car miserable but also make it deadly.

People often forget that the NHRA cage guidelines are not a stand alone concept, but rather part of a system where the driver is helmeted and heavily restrained to limit movement to only a few inches. Normal passenger seats and seat belts cannot even come close to restraining somebody that way and the cage turns in to a skull splitter. This is why I did a "street" cage that is set back further from my head.

I remember a magazine article where the author was talking about how people ruin their cars by modifying too heavily. I feel like I am walking a fine line right now.... hoping I don't regret this.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Oh, that's not done yet. I am having a different shop work on that but not at this time.