HP52TA

iTrader: (4)

4.10s + T56

Looking great, ready to see her roll.

coptzer

iTrader: (2)

Yes... 4:10's for the WIN! At 75 mph on the interstate I'm at like 2100 RPM's. Friggen perfect! Plus who doesn't like shifting through gears. Got 17 MPG on my first tank with a lot of idling time and tuning. Should easily get 20+.

ls2 dude

iTrader: (2)

4.30 for the win!

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

putting 4.56's in mine this weekend. don't fear the gear! wind 'em up!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

The replacement K-member went in real easy. No misalignment, no struggle, no wheel sticking out from the fender.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Change of plans. I decided to put the Holley engine ECM inside the car. I found a 70 pin connector the would be awesome to use as a pass through at the passenger side kick panel. Problem is that it costs $120. Forget that.

So I took the stock wire pass through (clam shell) off the passenger side kick panel and separated the two halves. Then I applied heat with a heat gun and dug out the potting material with a screw driver and removed all the wires. It was pretty easy and quick. The Holley wire harness easily fits through the clam shell and I'm just going to use potting again to seal it up, just like factory.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Several common JY cars have big bulkheads and can be had for pocket change. New terminals and bam, big pass through thats not $120

coptzer

iTrader: (2)

You say quick and easy, but I did the same thing and mine was a little bit of a pain, but still got it all out. I didn't use heat though. I originally was going to put the harness through there, but ended up going through the firewall, so that was a waste of time for me. I just ended up filling it full of silicone to seal it up.

You going to make some sort of bracket and mount the PCM in the factory spot like I did?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Heat gun makes all the difference in the world. Stuff starts to melt fast but it gets really sticky at same time. Let it cool a bit and it will be like a heavy putty and come out in big chunks and not be sticky. It's all about working with it at the right temp.

I'll have to make some kind of bracket. The HP ECM is a pretty heavy little thing! I might be stealing something from your playbook.

coptzer

iTrader: (2)

haha... have at it, I'm sure you'll improve on it. I've got a bunch of pics of my bracket. The LS1 PCM was pretty heavy too, not sure how they compare, but I was a little concerned at first.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

The Holley ECM is a lot heavier. More sensitive to vibration too. You'd think it was made of glass and rice paper after reading the Holley paperwork.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Maybe I missed it, but why are you going holley EFI over OEM?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

It was an opportunistic thing, not planned. I accidentally stumbled on a fabulous deal for a new-second-hand system with the same weird LS1/LS3 combo I'm running and couldn't say no. The self tuning feature is of huge value to me. I have zero interest in being a part time tuner.

That's why I've been digging in to a few things like AC control, reverse lockout, speedo signal conditioning, and alternator ignition terminal. These are all things not built in to the Holley HP EFI. I think I have all that figured out now but it did use up all the custom output drivers in the ECM.

I have a friend switching right now on his '68 Camaro, too. His reason is different though. He's doing it for the processing speed (loop time) and wide-band sensor. He just can't get the LS1 PCM to run the A/F ratio he wants at part throttle. He has a high winding LS1 that spins to 8000+ RPM.

coptzer

iTrader: (2)

Haha... wrap it in a roll of bubble wrap and jamb it home I guess. You'll figure it out!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Tonight I took on the task of mounting ECM under the dash. I came up with a really clean install for the Holley HP ECM and the Dakota Digital speedometer signal conditioning box.

Edit: This didn't work so well and I had to take a little different approach shown in post #331
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post5969856


Original stock ECM mounting bracket. This is the side the ECM is attached. The stock speedometer buffer box is clipped to the back side.




Need to remove the rails on each side of the bracket in order to make a flat spot for the Holley ECM to sit.




Rails removed.




Holes drilled and Holley HP ECM attached. Right now I'm using two zip ties at each mounting point. Not sure if I'll used bolts or not. The zip ties seem awfully sturdy and has low clearance to make the next step possible.




Turns out the spacing of the Dakota Digital mounting tabs was close enough to snap it onto the original clips that held the speedometer buffer box.




Finished product. All the connectors facing toward the fender wall. If the bracket ends up flexing then I can always put a strip of aluminum down the center of the bracket to stiffen it up.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

zip ties eh? not reall consistent with the rest of your style, lol

coptzer

iTrader: (2)

Nice job! I knew you'd come up with something nice. It seems though GM made a big improvement in that bracket from the one that was in my '86. I had to reinforce mine because it was super flimsy... had no material in the middle. Plus my tab for the top was actually part on the old computer.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I don't know, those zip ties might just stay there.

Ya, I saw your pictures and it did look a lot different. I didn't know if you did that on purpose or if it was that way from the beginning. Mine was definitely an easier piece to start with!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Everybody is always wondering, What is that filler stuff in the passenger side electrical pass-thru? Well, I wondered too so I went on a search today.

You can try to call manufacturers of potting materials but you won't get far on your own because they don't do small batch private sales. Fortunately, the caller ID from my desk phone gets me past the gatekeeper. Here are some options I got from a technical advisor. I also have data sheets that aren't on the websites. If you want copies then send me a PM with your e-mail. The criteria I gave them was,

• water splash protection
• compatible with SXL automotive wire
• able to be removed without too much difficulty
• able to be applied in a home garage environment

You shouldn't need more than 65 mL to get the job done, probably much less depending on how many wires you have.

Dow SYLGARD™ 160 Silicone Encapsulant Gray 210 mL Kit
Silicone elastomer. Pours like Karo syrup and sets with a hardness like a radiator hose. 20 minute work time. Color is dark grey to black.
https://www.ellsworth.com/products/by-market/consumer-products/encapsulants/silicone/dow-sylgard-160-silicone-encapsulant-gray-210-ml-kit/


ResinLab UR3010 Urethane Encapsulant Clear 50 mL Cartridge
Polyurethane. Pours like 30W oil and sets with a hardness like a red rubber pencil eraser. 30 minute work time. Color is clear. I think this is the product I'm buying. It is cheap and comes in a perfect sized 50 mL dispenser.
https://www.ellsworth.com/products/b...-ml-cartridge/


ResinLab EP1200 Epoxy Encapsulant Black 50 mL Cartridge
Epoxy. Pours like ketchup and sets hard like ABS plastic. Personally, I wouldn't choose this one if you ever want to dig out your wires. 2 hour work time. Color is black.
https://www.ellsworth.com/products/by-market/consumer-products/thermally-conductive-materials/encapsulants/resinlab-ep1200-epoxy-encapsulant-black-50-ml-cartridge/

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

And if you're wondering...

* yes, you can use epoxy from the hardware store. It will cure hard and you'll probably never get your wires out again.

* no, you shouldn't use silicone from the hardware store. It's the wrong type of silicone.

cam406406

iTrader: (1)

Yo quick where u located
I got a holley up an running its great

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

3 hours south of you.

HP52TA

iTrader: (4)

Another option to consider (which I used in mine) is simply electrical duct seal. It satisfies all the requirements you have identified, as well as being fire retardant (non-combustible), is easily accessible from any local home hardware store, easy to install/remove/reuse and cheap (under $5).

Here is link to the product information data: (Iberville CIDUCT-1 Duct Seal Compound)
http://www.tnb.ca/en/web-catalogue/?...t=duct%20seal]

Catalog Page:
http://www.tnb.ca/en/pdf-catalogues/...oughing-in.pdf

MSDS:
http://tnblnx3.tnb.com/emAlbum/album...nvier2014..pdf

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Thanks for the lead. What is it like to work with? Does it get between all the little wires?

HP52TA

iTrader: (4)

Super easy, like using a heavier viscous playdoh. It adheres to itself, therefore you can put thin strips in between the layers of wires, as well as the outer surfaces. Pack it tight so when you squeeze the connector together it drools out the ends. You can also add more after it is assembled if needed to ensure a complete seal, as it bonds to itself. Then smooth out where the wires exit for a clean look. I can post some pictures if you like.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

The way the holley harness is constructed is annoying me too much. I completely stripped it down tonight so I can put it back together the way it should be. So much for saving effort! At least it will look at lot better and things will be located where they should be.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Just a small update tonight. I moved the HVAC wiring so it goes under the AC box rather than over the top. Between that and the engine harness, there was just too many wire bundles trying to share the same space around the heater core inlets/outlets and I needed to do something to open up space. Dropping the HVAC wires low helped a lot. I put velcro heat shield over the harness since it will be fairly close to header tube.




The other thing that has happened is that with the new BMR K-member the engine seems to sit a little higher than it did before. The #8 coil is really close to AC case on firewall. I ground down a bolt head on the coil quite a bit trying to get more clearance. Don't know what else to do other than move the coil but I'm not interested to do that right now.

Edit: This was not sufficient. I ended up modifying the coil bracket, shown in post #279.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post5901869

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Just take the bolt out and turn the coil a few degrees

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Do you mean to just use the top bolt and throw away the bottom bolt?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Yes

If you're unwilling to do that, try a flat headed bolt and chamfer the coil mounting tab

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I just can't seem to get around the fact the coil has to move. As soon as the engine runs it is going to tear up the fiberglass AC box. So I've come up with a plan to modify the bracket. Should be real easy if I can manage to lay down a decent weld.

Update: Finished product is shown in post #279, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post5901869

JayBoCC2

QwkTrip have you seen this?
http://www.brphotrods.com/products/3...cts/index.html

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

No, I had not. Thank you.

I was talking to Bruce at Hawks today and brought up this topic during conversation. They grind down the heater box and cover it with heat shield since it is so close to headers. Knowing that, I might just do the same.

JayBoCC2

What did you end up doing with the heater box and coils QT?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I'm back...

It's been a cold winter and garage has been in a deep freeze. First day working on the car since December.

Jaybo, I'm ordering a gas hose kit for my welder and I'm going to cut and reposition the coil bracket like the graphic above. Wish me luck... I have little experience welding other than 3 weeks of training and MIG certification about 10 years ago when my company sent me in to the factory to prepare for a potential union strike. And that equipment was very different than what I have at home, which I have never used.

Today I dropped out the rear axle. The axle tubes were painted when new but the center section was not. It became an unsightly ball of rust over the years. I knocked the rust off with a wire wheel and sprayed the center section with rust converter. After a couple days I will paint it flat black to match the axle tubes. I have a set of Founders control arm drop brackets that will get installed. And I need to install a new set of rear brake lines.

I'm really glad I decided to remove the axle for paint because Strange used the wrong bolt on one of the brake calipers and the bolt extended far enough to touch the rotor. I'll need to replace the bolt.

I will do the fuel tank plumbing and electrical while the axle is out. When the tank and axle go back in it will be the last time I ever fiddle with that.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Painted the axle center section. Looks presentable now. Installed the Founders control arm drop brackets. And waiting for paint to dry to install rear brake lines.

So it looks like I accidentally sold the 4th gen fuel tank harness. Oops! This makes me glad I took the time to make a wiring diagram so I can reconstruct a harness of my own. This is going to be really easy and probably turn out better than if I had the 4th gen harness. The Racetronix harness has a type of Metripack connector. I simply de-pinned the original connector and put the pins in a flat 4 Metripack that I have tons of. Problem solved.

This is the connector swap. Original Racetronix connector on the left, and my flat 4 Metripack on the right. Other connector goes into the bulkhead at the fuel pump on top of fuel tank.

Update: A better idea is shown in post #250, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post5893401




This is the connector needed to attach to the original bulkhead connector behind the rear seat. It is a Delphi Weather-Pack, part number 12020829 with a "tall" style clip. Ballenger Motorsports helped me find it.




Axle center section painted. The axle tubes were already painted from the factory. This is a Strange 12 bolt I bought a loooong time ago when the original V6 first came out of the car. It has 3.73 gears, high strength axles, larger spline count, c-clip eliminators, and a "Super Posi" which is basically a really strong clutch pack that will probably chirp in corners. The brakes have been kind a pain in the rear because they aren't stock GM and Strange has no record of what they used back then. Strange thinks they used Baer brakes back then, but not sure.




Founders drop brackets (oriented upside down in this picture). It comes with the bushing to keep the brackets from bending when the thru bolt is tightened. It is oriented by the top thru-bolt and the shock mount. Not very good alignment as-made. I will have to give it a few tweaks to make it fit right.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

we used a set of those founders brackets on a budget build and found similar alignment issues. we just put everything together loose, then cranked it down. probably could have fixed it by reaming the shock out out a little, or putting it in the vice and putting a slight tweak on it, but we wanted to go racing and were already under the car, lol.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

What position did you use? I have 1.5" drop springs.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

we typically start in the middle hole, but it's very dependent on usage, tire, trans type, etc.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

FWIW, the 4th gen connectors are delphi metripack 150 series. The 4 way square you replaced is the same as LS1 rear HO2s which most people remove, so theres a good source for replacements. The long connector uses male terminals and the short, female. Id suggest keeping a bunch of both handy for the future since they're easy to use and inexpensive from mouser. About 75% of the engine harness terminals are 150 female, so if you repair or trim down the harness it helps to have some handy

The second connector is weatherpack and most DIY wiring kits still use them. Never hurts to have a few terminals for those too, also inexpensive at mouser

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Thanks, guys.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I trial fit the LS1 fuel tank tonight and worked out the parts I need for fuel lines. I tried to use the Corvette fuel filter but the quick disconnect fittings were too close together and I couldn't install both fittings at the same time. Had to use the Camaro filter instead, so the Camaro regulator will stay in the fuel tank.

I am mounting the Camaro LS1 filter in stock 3rd gen location. However, the filter is too small diameter to be held by the clamp so I cut a thin sheet metal wrap to go around the filter so the clamp has something to bite on. Worked perfect and the filter is held tight and electrically grounded as well.

Below are the parts I am ordering to plumb -6 AN fuel line using the Camaro LS1 filter. This should result in tidy packaging under the car. All fitting part numbers are Russell Performance. The two 90 degree fittings on the supply line are needed to bend around the filter bracket under the car. More fittings than I would like to use, but it will be very tidy without fuel lines going everywhere.

Edit: Updated fuel diagram is in post #293, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post5910529

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

that filter isn't self regulating is it? as it sits, you don't have a regulator in the system? unless im missing something....

R13_Braz

He's keeping the regulator that's in the tank on the bucket, I believe.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

then, would he need a return after the filter?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

The in-tank regulator is on the return side

His setup is plumbed like a stock 4th gen LS1 car, only -6

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Imagine the fuel tank located to the far left of the diagram. Pressure regulator is part of the fuel pump module inside the fuel tank.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

oh i got it now.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Got my fittings and I'm disappointed with things. I think a stock fuel system would flow better than this stuff.

These fittings have only .25" ID, and the metric o-ring at fuel filter is even smaller. Even the stock plastic quick connector has a .25" ID. Difference is if I built a stock type fuel system then I would be using fewer connectors for less overall flow restriction, and the metal line would be bigger ID than the hose, too. I'm starting to wonder if -6AN was a poor idea.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Plumbed and wired the fuel tank today. As I was fiddling with Racetronx wiring I saw an easy way to eliminate the Racetronix jumper harness from top of fuel tank. I also got the fuel filler tube mocked up and now I have to take down the fuel tank again to crimp the tube in place. I'd be interested in ideas from people how to keep the filler tube from flopping around.

Original Racetronix wiring on left with the jumper harness connector removed. Simplified wiring on the right. Now there is no need for the extra connector and jumper harness. Simply running wires directly to necessary connections.




Other end of harness. Black wire is eliminated. Grey wire used to go to top of fuel tank but not any more. Tan wires are spliced from the purple fuel sender wires at fuel tank (couldn't find purple in my stock pile ). Those three wires go to the 3rd gen connector on rear firewall.




Fuel tank ready to go up.




The -6AN hose is too big to fit in the original fuel line clips so I cut out the clips from fuel tank. Hoses are laying on top of the fuel tank and zip tied in three locations to the large tube that goes to charcoal canister. I used a weave method with the zip ties to force the fuel lines to lay side-by-side. If you just put a zip tie in a circle around all three hoses then you'll end up forming a pyramid when the middle hose is scrunched up.




I cut about 2.5 inches off the rubber fuel neck. I'd be interested in ideas from people how to keep the filler tube from flopping around.