daddy33

iTrader: (5)

Yep I have the pro 5.0 shifter. Just being it neutral it's almost hitting the passenger side of the center console....it's weird

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Looks good man, did you have cruise before the swap? Did you have to incorperate its into your wiring?

STREETDEMON

i did have cruise before...trying to get it to work again now....

Screamin86

iTrader: (1)

wish i would have went ahead and ha pocket wire in cruise when he did my harness for the trans am. ill deff get it done when i swap the z28!

STREETDEMON

here is a picture of the shifter in 5th gear....

86White_T/A305

Id use a different stick..with the proper fbody angle towards the driver side.Not sure which side of the stick you mounted onto the shifter..but if you did it the tradional way..it hits the concole or very close when going to reverse.Get longer bolts and nuts..put the stick on the opposite side of the shifter and that will put the stick more towards you and easier to bang gears imo.

STREETDEMON

is that directed at me or daddy33? cause i have zero issues with my setup, doesn't hit in reverse either. i've got some ape arms and this setup works great for me.

Screamin86

iTrader: (1)

looks good! i need a t56 badly! the stalled th350 is alot of fun but id like to have more gears lol.

STREETDEMON

just an update:

i've still been getting a bit of clutch chatter with my level 3 monster(450 miles). i called in and steve told me to stop driving like a granny, take it out and beat on it. apparently a normal clutch break-in is not to be used for the level 3. now i just need to get a better rearend so i can actually beat on it! i will buy monster again, what a fantastic product, and customer service. unless you are building a track car, i would suggest going with a level 2, they handle up to 550hp.

depending on the midwest weather, i hope to take the car in for the final dyno tune in a couple of weeks. last to do on the list are eventually install AC and get my cruise control working.

the smile per mile factor is exponential with the new setup, it just feels good. i wish i would have done this years ago!

88FormulaKiller

iTrader: (8)

Nice build man, so you mentioned adding a turbo in there huh? lol

STREETDEMON

no turbos for me....if anything, someday a better set of heads and a fast 92. i'm old school and like my power all-motor, i've got traction problems as-is!

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

based on your review, i've got a set of the coated mid-length headers on the way. just one more thing to throw in when we get some nicer weather around these parts....

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I'm planning on buying a set later on as well. I need to get my swap done first though. Too much stuff to buy atm.

STREETDEMON

dan, i'm sure you'll be pleased, i think my pictures even made it up on their facebook site(their meaning hedman husler)...

mine still look great and i have over 800 hard miles on them....and i live down a gravel road.

evo-offer

really nice project. and for me (when it´s time i´m definitely gonna buy the hedman headers). how did you solve the speedo? conversion box or aftermarket gague?love the sound with the new engine.whas it difficult to get the wiring right? it is the bigget concerns for me if i´ll can get the wiring right haha. how much did you end up spending at the engine if i´ll may ask?why i´m wondering if it are much cheaper to go with a truck engine instead of a ls1/6 direclty? is the project complete or do you have something more you gonna do? if you can, take som pictures under the car so i/we can see the exhaust. do you go with singel or dual?

STREETDEMON

the speedo didn't require anything special, just had to send the VSS signal to it from the tranny. pocket built my harness, i didn't mess with the main harness at all. i don't have any pictures of the full exhaust on the car, but in post #118 you can see my y-pipe and single electric cutout, that is followed by a hooker aerochamber with tucked tailpipes. the only thing i have left to do on the car is build a hybrid 10 bolt/8.8 ford rear end and get the final touches put on the tune while on the dyno.

evo-offer

okay. wich pcm do you use? or does it matter for the speedo?

STREETDEMON

0411 pcm for the cable throttle body. shouldn't make any difference as long as you have an electric drive speedo.

evo-offer

okay. thanks for your help.

Btw, do you know wich year the electric speedos?1988?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

90-92 camaro
86-92 birds

johnw999

Great build thread Streetd. I'm going to start my build project soon, and I'm preparing the plan and parts list now. I'm interested in the husler mid-length headers. Is starter access the advantage of those headers over long tubes headers? I wouldn't want to have to remove the headers in the future if my starter were to fail! Also, what are my options with connecting the husler mid-lengths to the "cat-back" section? I see that you got flowmaster cross pipes. What is the part number for that? Other than this thread, I've found no other info on the mid-length install. Thanks

STREETDEMON

Price is the advantage of the mid's over the long tubes, honestly, starter access was the least of my concerns. For a street car you can't beat the price on the BRP's, especially since they are coated. No matter what you do for headers/manifolds, you will have to make your own y-pipe, there is no way around that. I don't remember the part number on the merge, but it is a dual 2.5" into 3". I was the first one on the forum to document the mid's, and spent a lot of time on the decision to purchase them. They now have over 2k miles on them and still look great, and I couldn't be happier with the quality of the product.

Boreen

What cold air is that or what kit did you buy to make that from? Im gonna need something asap.
Im also in a toss up between these and Hawks 1 7/8 long tubes.

STREETDEMON

its the kit for the later GTO's, modified with an extra coupler to point the filter where i wanted it to go. i bought it on tech used.

what are you building for an engine? chances are the 1 3/4" mids will flow everything you want them too and you'll get them to your door for 1/2 the price.....

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

sweet swap hope mines turns out that nice as yours lol

combatdoc

I just got done with my swap, I went with the mid-length headers and I couldnt be happier, hope to get the exhaust done in a few days but the clutch is giving me fits, can't get the damn thing bled. Anywho streetdemon, car looks great, sounds great also. Lots of luck with it. Doc.

STREETDEMON

thanks guys!

added an astro steering shaft last weekend, working on my 8.8 hybrid rear and burning in my subframe connectors this weekend.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Cant wait till my swap is finish seems like forever parts are arriving tho lol i have a jeep steering shaft been meaning to put on

How do you like the feel of the astro steering shaft

STREETDEMON

just drove it for the first time today, so far its definitely crisper and more responsive...i'm one spline off and my steering wheel shows it.

i'll pull her in the shop and fix that today.

STREETDEMON

ok so...update time.

life seems to happen, at a pretty rapid pace the older i get.

most of my wrench time lately has been to stay ahead of stuff on my K5 daily driver. new pw motors, seals, hei, etc. i did get my subframe connectors welded in the car, and i still can't weld above my head in a pretty fashion....haha.

my 8.8 donor came in today to start my rear end build. i have aquired the makings for a custom torque arm mount from a member over on tech, and have the dimensions ready to go for the local machine shop to make my truing rod. i hope to have the rear completed before the end of the month, and finally get my much needed dyno tune session in.

the rear will have 4.10 gears for now with a factory ford trac-lok. it was a low mile rear out of a ranger, so i'm hoping everything is in good enough order to put it together and run it for the summer.....then i'll probably go to some 3.90 gears, so i can stretch my mph out a little more in 4th. pictures to follow in the coming days.

Podium

iTrader: (2)

Do you have pics of your y pipe and ground clearance? I am also torn between these and the 1 7/8 from Hawks. I had the 1 3/4 hawks in 07 with the 3 inch collector and the ground clearence sucked.

STREETDEMON

here are a couple of pictures i snapped this morning before i left for work.

the y isn't as high as it could be. nor are my down pipes. when i originally made the y i got a little too ahead of myself and didn't measure quite right, so i had contact issues with my torque arm. there is a lot of room to tuck the pipes higher, which i will probably do sometime this summer. the true dual bug has bitten me, and i really want to go that route now. you could easily tuck 2.5" pipe to where it wouldnt be seen.







my exhaust, as it is, sounds really good with the hooker aerochamber....it's just too busy. if i don't get true duals done this summer, i will probably buy a banks monster muffler and just do a single tucked tail pipe to clean it up a little.

Podium

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for sharing! Way more room than my hawks LTs lol. I will be getting the hedmans for sure for my iroc build

STREETDEMON

made some pretty good progress this weekend.

i already had the 8.8 center thinned out and partially cut down



next project for the day was getting the car back up in the air and dropping the 10 bolt...it had been taken loose, but hadn't been off for about 10 years. needed some pb blaster to loosen things up. my rh brake caliper looked like a tree stump from the leaking axle seal.....




the point of no return....took all of my measurements and degree'd out the spring perches, etc about 6 times. then i took out the cutting wheel....



by mid-day my garage was destroyed.....



pretty happy with the progress. everything is trimmed up and partially fitted. now all i need to do is some finish grinding, wire wheel the tubes, weld on the lcarb's, weld on the ta bracket, use the truing rod to weld the tubes on, paint it, and figure out what i'm going to do for an adjustable ta.

STREETDEMON

pulled the trigger on an adjustable jegster ta. still waiting on my lcarb's and panhard rod from founders, hopefully they get my order shipped soon.

decided to do some sound deadening while i've got the carpet up for the jegster install.

Brando5641

iTrader: (-1)

Noob question... How do you keep the axle tubes perfectly strait for welding? I would think if they where off even a very small amount it would kill bearing and bind.

STREETDEMON

for my build, i'm using a truing rod. basically an 1.25" rod, in this case 64" long, with discs that "machine fit" on it. the discs take the place of the carrier bearings/races and hold the rod true and level with the housing, then you use another disc that is the axle bearing size on the outside end to keep the tube where you need it.

Brando5641

iTrader: (-1)

Did you make this rod or can it be bought? Pics of it?

STREETDEMON

you can buy the discs off of ebay and supply your own rod/bar. i'm having mine made at a local machine shop because its considerably cheaper. when i get it i'll post up some pictures.

6SIX6

iTrader: (35)

Cool to see you building the rear end for sure. Cant wait to see it when its done

STREETDEMON

it's taken me too long to get to this point that's for sure, car should have long ago been on a dyno to squeeze some more ponies out of it!

i received an email from founders that my panhard bar and lcarb's shipped and my jegster torque arm came in today so i'm that much closer now. here are some pictures of the setup as it is delivered.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

link to the truing bar discs? what are you planning for the ta mount?

STREETDEMON

matt, here is a link to the same vendor i was looking at:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rearend-Narrowing-Fixture-Bushings-For-7-5-10-Bolt-12-Bolt-GM-Rear-Ends-/321085313525?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item4ac22d11f5#ht_863wt_1018
for a ta mount, there is a guy over on tech, hiltsy855, that builds a kit. i'll have pictures up later this week, pretty easy to use. the mount is designed around the explorer rear, but seems to work find with my ranger housing.



made some good progress this weekend. the axle tubes are fitted and set to the correct length. the ranger tubes taper towards the housing, so i had to put a good chamfer on the 10 bolt tubes. they are about 4.5-5" inside the 8.8 tubes. c-clips dropped right in like they were supposed to. i put the ta mount together, well about 90% of it, so now i just need to pick up some nickel rod and weld it to the housing. i'm also going to add in some extra bracing that doesn't include the housing for piece of mind.

STREETDEMON

my panhard rod and lcarb's came in from founders performance. i had a great buying experience with them. they even changed my order before it shipped with a custom request. very cool and you can't beat the price!

SMKNGTA

Great build StreetDemon.
I was wondering how you like your monster stage 3 clutch after putting some more miles on it. Has the chatter gone away since your last update in feb 2012?

STREETDEMON

i like the clutch, its just not very street friendly. it will be a lot better with the 4.10 gears i'm sure. it will still chatter if you baby it, but when you drive it like you need to there is never any problems. unless you are making the power to require the level 3, i would stay with a 2.

i suppose what i'm saying is, if you can live with it, its a great clutch.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i agree 100% on all accounts, lol.

SMKNGTA

Thanks for your thoughts on it. Im swapping in an Ls1 from a 99 TA, it will be just bolt-ons this year. Next year I plan to do single turbo setup with 500-550rwhp, so i dont want a clutch that wont handle my future plans. Most people seem to be happy with the monster stage3 for its durability while being hard on it but like you said it will chatter if your easy on it. I maybe go once a year to the track and I only run drag radials so its basically a fun cruiser/street car. With my driving style a stage 2 may be enough or a Spec stage 3+ which is a full disc and supose to be more forgiving on the street. Anyway, thanks for your input guys, I'm just thinking out loud here.

STREETDEMON

no worries. if it wasn't such a pain to pull everything back apart i would've probably swapped a stage 2 in there...fwiw.


on another note: my fatmat rattle trap came in, so i now have all the pieces to complete my rear end swapapalooza.

STREETDEMON

well like most things that involve wrenching, the weekend didn't turn out anything like i planned.....

while having a beer with my father-in-law on saturday night we realized the oxy torch was empty. so that pushed the ta burn in process by a week, and the machine shop still doesn't have my truing bar done.

regroup.

boxed in my lca's and painted them up



fitted up the lcarb's, decided not to weld them in until i can fit the rear on the car


here are some pictures of the ta mount







i also did some clearance work with the jegster torque arm. i may have to make a new mount for the rear end side. the one that comes with it looks like it may hit the tunnel.